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AR Weaponlight Options


GlockSpock

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I'm about to put a Surefire on my AR but am seeking advice from perhaps those that have used this sort of setup professionally. Here is my proposed buylist:

Now, based on people who have had a similiar setup, I'd be curious to know the following questions? Assuming cost is negligible, any reason to go with the M300 instead of the M600? How about the M600 that adjusts brightness based on setting?

As far as mounting the actual light onto the for-end, I can either take a MagPul MLOK to Picantinny rail section and then mount the Surefire mount to it, or there are other options. Does anyone have input for this? If I go rail section, is it better to do polymer or metal, MagPul sells both.

I debated on getting a AA M600. It isn't as bright but one could use Eneloop Pro's in the light and then buy a solar AA charging implementation. This seems like it would be perfect in any extended period without power. Then buying an Aimpoint Comp4 (also takes AA's) and it seems a good pair. A pair of lithium AA's could be stored in the MagPul grip as a backup.

CR123's are great when you have them.

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You're likely to get a lot of varying responses to this.  Ultimately it comes down to shooter preference and intended use.  I prefer to run my light (old school X200) without a tape switch and simply locate it on the top rail where I can activate it with a little forward thumb pressure.  I've used pressure switches and multiple locations over the years and I've settled on that setup to simplify and take a point of failure out of the equation.  

Scout lights are pretty good but take up more rail space (especially the AA).  If you're set on the scout, get a Mini-Scout.  However, I'd look at the X300 first.  More output, more compact, and I know for a fact they're durable.  I'd also go with a CR123 powered model of whatever you get, no doubt.  They are great when you have them, so go get some, they're readily available.

Metal rail sections.

Skip the AA solar attachment, upgraded internals, and all that extra fiddling around.  Why buy a brand new light only to have to buy and install aftermarket parts just to make it as bright as a model you could have bought to begin with?  And to be blunt, you're buying a weapon light right?  It's not a flashlight to see around your house in a power outage, so it won't be on for long periods of time.  You'll flip it on, flip it off, and repeat as necessary only when engaging a threat or investigating a possible threat.

One thing you didn't mention is a strobing capability.  It all comes down to intended purpose, but I can tell you the strobing weapon light is pretty disorienting on the receiving end.  It takes a little more practice on the giving end, but not too much more.  Shooter preference.

 

Edited by ARO Matt
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3 minutes ago, ARO Matt said:

You're likely to get a lot of varying responses to this.  Ultimately it comes down to shooter preference and intended use.  I prefer to run my light (old school X200) without a tape switch and simply locate it on the top rail where I can activate it with a little forward thumb pressure.  I've used pressure switches and multiple locations over the years and I've settled on that setup to simplify and take a point of failure out of the equation.  

Scout lights are pretty good but take up more rail space (especially the AA).  If you're set on the scout, get a Mini-Scout.  However, I'd look at the X300 first.  More output, more compact, and I know for a fact they're durable.  I'd also go with a CR123 powered model of whatever you get, no doubt.  They are great when you have them, so go get some, they're readily available.

Metal rail sections.

Skip the AA solar attachment, upgraded internals, and all that extra fiddling around.  Why buy a brand new light only to have to buy and install aftermarket parts just to make it as bright as a model you could have bought to begin with?  And to be blunt, you're buying a weapon light right?  It's not a flashlight to see around your house in a power outage, so it won't be on for long periods of time.  You'll flip it on, flip it off, and repeat as necessary only when engaging a threat or investigating a possible threat.

One thing you didn't mention is a strobing capability.  It all comes down to intended purpose, but I can tell you the strobing weapon light is pretty disorienting on the receiving end.  It takes a little more practice on the giving end, but not too much more.  Shooter preference.

 

I agree with most of this. I already have an X300-U on my Glock 19 for carry. I thought about getting an identical one for a rifle. I think they scouts probably throw a bit further but it honestly is an option. I'd have to experiment to see if the light on the top rail would get in the way of a RDS. Honestly thought I'm getting a pretty dang good deal on a new M600 so if it is a technical better light for the application there is no reason not to get it.

I had an old-school non-led Surefire on an AR at one point. I sold it in order to upgrade to LED but haven't got around to it until now. I don't mind that the light is a bit longer. Whether it works is what matters to me (not that any of the Surefire weapon lights wouldn't work).

Metal rail sections. I don't mind doing this but curious to hear a pro/con argument or aluminum vs polymer.

I think you may have misunderstood about the solar AA attachment. I'd primarily be buying lithium AA's for sitting around the house. But, having the ability to charge AA's using solar power in an extended SHTF scenario leaving us without power has to seem appealing to some. The Eneloops are very, very well received although I'm curious to know if recoil affects them over time. This would simply be a backup allowing for extended use without power. That being said, you can store quite a few CR123's in not that much space. It wasn't about making anything brighter.

Strobing. Personally, I understand how disorienting it is as I've messed around with some handheld lights quite a bit. I don't think Surefire offers this? Perhaps Streamlight? I'd be open to it as long as the overall use was as streamlined as possible.

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16 minutes ago, CZ9MM said:

I agree with most of this. I already have an X300-U on my Glock 19 for carry. I thought about getting an identical one for a rifle. I think they scouts probably throw a bit further but it honestly is an option. I'd have to experiment to see if the light on the top rail would get in the way of a RDS. Honestly thought I'm getting a pretty dang good deal on a new M600 so if it is a technical better light for the application there is no reason not to get it.

I had an old-school non-led Surefire on an AR at one point. I sold it in order to upgrade to LED but haven't got around to it until now. I don't mind that the light is a bit longer. Whether it works is what matters to me (not that any of the Surefire weapon lights wouldn't work).

Metal rail sections. I don't mind doing this but curious to hear a pro/con argument or aluminum vs polymer.

I think you may have misunderstood about the solar AA attachment. I'd primarily be buying lithium AA's for sitting around the house. But, having the ability to charge AA's using solar power in an extended SHTF scenario leaving us without power has to seem appealing to some. The Eneloops are very, very well received although I'm curious to know if recoil affects them over time. This would simply be a backup allowing for extended use without power. That being said, you can store quite a few CR123's in not that much space. It wasn't about making anything brighter.

Strobing. Personally, I understand how disorienting it is as I've messed around with some handheld lights quite a bit. I don't think Surefire offers this? Perhaps Streamlight? I'd be open to it as long as the overall use was as streamlined as possible.

The M600 is a good light, especially if you're getting a good deal on it, you won't be disappointed.  I'm an Aimpoint guy and a top mounted X200/X300 doesn't get in the way. 

If the extra length isn't an issue then no worries with the Scout.

Metal because I just prefer it.  I've broken, cracked, and melted polymer bits on a few occasions.  Nothing catastrophic in the moment, but I just prefer the metal.  Shooter's preference.

Battery type, again, shooter's preference.  If you're not running your gear hard then the internals you're talking about will probably hold up fine.  As for extended power loss, well I'll refer back to intended use.  It's not like you're going to walk around with it on for hours at a time.  The batteries will last quite awhile.  I understand your reasoning though.

Strobing isn't something I use much, and Surefire doesn't offer it.  I was just bringing up another possible consideration.  Back to my favorite term "shooter's preference."

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I think AROMatt hit the nail on the head with all points. Personally I'm a fan of Surefire, and I've spent a whole lot of money with them. Any of the Scout series are great lights and you can't go wrong there. I have the new Intellibeam coming to stick on one of my rifles so hopefully that will live up to the hype. 

As far as batteries go you can get rechargeable CR133As so don't think you're stuck with AAs. Again, as stated above you're not keeping the light on for long periods of time.

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I think AROMatt hit the nail on the head with all points. Personally I'm a fan of Surefire, and I've spent a whole lot of money with them. Any of the Scout series are great lights and you can't go wrong there. I have the new Intellibeam coming to stick on one of my rifles so hopefully that will live up to the hype. 
As far as batteries go you can get rechargeable CR133As so don't think you're stuck with AAs. Again, as stated above you're not keeping the light on for long periods of time.


For what reasons did you go for the Intellibeam?


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This is what I use:

Surefire 6P: Only 65 lumens, but price was right; not trying to dissuade the higher lumen model if it's what you want

Blackhawk light mount:  You can probably get it cheaper if you comparison shop

 

Here's how it's mounted on my SBR (had it very similar on a 16" before the tax stamp came in):

image-IMG_20170227_223937.jpg

 

And here is how I support hand grip & use the light (not my best form, but hard to setup a pic):

IMG_20170227_224033.jpg

 

That works for *me* as I've found it easier than dealing with the pressure switch, which tended to make me grip too tight, pulling my shots down.  @ARO Matt has a great point about the simplification this brings and risk reduction of something as fragile as a thin cable.

Edited by btq96r
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I run a M600 with a tail cap similar to the pic immediately above.  Pressure switches are cool in theory, but they never seem to work like I want them to in application. I like the one's that run on 123's - there are good lithium rechargeable options for these too if that's your thing.  There is definitely a place for AA lights - but performance seems better out of the 123's.

 

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11 minutes ago, MacGyver said:

I run a M600 with a tail cap similar to the pic immediately above.  Pressure switches are cool in theory, but they never seem to work like I want them to in application. I like the one's that run on 123's - there are good lithium rechargeable options for these too if that's your thing.  There is definitely a place for AA lights - but performance seems better out of the 123's.

 

Well, then you'll be happy to see the followup thread:

 

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