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Iver Johnson Supershot + I.J. .38 67-S = BEST of both era's in one.


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This is one of my "what if" guns that I am nearly done with but it actually shoots fine as is right now. About a year or more ago I picked up this Iver model 67-S Viking 2.75" 38 S&W at a GS. It was cheap enough because it had a bad trigger recoil spring in it. My intension for it was to load snake shot loads for it for around the house. Then one day I saw that 3" I.J. Supershot barrel and frame parts for sale on Ebay. I thought what if I could put the older supershot 22 barrel set onto the 38 frame? I had to try it since there were a few pluses in the final franken gun. The old world Supershot sealed 8 top break guns were beautifully machined with tapered light weight barrels and an auto eject feature. But by 1947 Iver had to cheapen the guns to stay competitive with the H&R 999. Once the Supershot turned into the model 66, The barrel became a bulky casting and they ditched the auto eject feature for a finger ejection rod. The 66 did have some important improvements such as a fixed firing pin with transfer bar, a nice wide spur hammer and a much needed larger trigger & trigger guard. So basically, I love the old Supershot top end but the newer 66 had the far better lower frame. So I set about mating the 2 together. I ended up getting a nice 6" supershot barrel from Numrich but found the forcing cone was off center. So I made a cutter up to correct that and found I have to cut new cylinder notches in the Supershot cylinder since the frame lug of the 67 center fire frame didn't line up. But that was fine since I could now match each cylinder bore with barrel bore using a brass alignment pin I made up. Milling each of the 8 cylinder notches threw the frame lug hole assured me a more accurate gun in the end. The newer & nicer rear sight/frame latch fit perfectly on the old barrel frame and of course the center fire FP bushing was removed, welded shut and remachined for a spring loaded FP of my own design. The frame did need a bit of weld to get a tight lock up also. I intend to color case harden the frame once I make up a crucible for a kiln I have. That will toughen the lock up to where it should be.

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 Below you see one of the weak areas of the IJ design. The trigger rebound spring is not a good one. I tried to install a new Numrich spring in the gun and flat out couldn't get it to work worth a s***. you see it inside the trigger guard here. So I revised the design with duel spring arms that are seated into holes drilled into the forward potion of the guard as pictured. The new springs have a longer arc of bend to them and with about a dozen careful thinnings, I have a nice reliable and lighter trigger pull over that stock joke of a spring they sent me. Also you can see I put the cylinder lock up lug spring mid body on the lug for a far more reliable and solid cylinder lock.

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  All that remains to be done is build up the front sight with some weld to match the higher rear sight and kiln color the frame and bingo, I have that old world top break I always wanted yet with modern full cylinder safe carry AND auto eject. No one in their "sensible" mind would ever go about a job like this so don't ask what it would cost..... never said I was sane when it comes to old guns  :?
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Edited by xtriggerman
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On ‎2‎/‎5‎/‎2017 at 8:55 AM, Ronald_55 said:

Nice! Sounds like you are a guy that should just start designing and building from scratch. 

Improving on an existing design is a gratifying thing. Yesterday, I worked on a little Spanish pocket 25 that had ejection issues. With some milling on the ejection port, that puppy is now spiting spent shells out 12 feet away rather than 2 feet away.....some times. 

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1 hour ago, xtriggerman said:

Improving on an existing design is a gratifying thing. Yesterday, I worked on a little Spanish pocket 25 that had ejection issues. With some milling on the ejection port, that puppy is now spiting spent shells out 12 feet away rather than 2 feet away.....some times. 

I bought a Winchester 37a 12ga single shot. It refuses to cock the hammer when closed. Gratifying and frustration to work on. I think I know the issue, but there is no clear reason why it will not lock completely. I gotta stop buying broken guns. Lol I still have to test the Iver Johnson .32 S&W top break that I had to put the firing pin in.

Edited by Ronald_55
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