jgradyc

I was thinking I'd put a ziplock through the barrel like they do at gun shows.

I'm going to Florida and plant to take my handgun in checked baggage. I have a HCP and will be flying direct from Nashville to Orlando. I've never carried a handgun in checked baggage, but it seems relatively straight forward as I read the Southwest Airlines policy. I have two locking hard side cases, one for the gun and another for the ammo that I will put inside my checked luggage. I just wanted to see if anyone had any first hand experience or advice. Obviously, it would be unloaded when I go up to the counter to declare it. I'll admit that I'm not comfortable putting a gun into a checked bag. I'm afraid it won't make it to the other end!

I'm done with TWD. I turned off the first episode halfway through.

Sticky Holster is a brand name. It's not the Remora, although the principle is the same.

Does it make you sweat? I have a waistband holster that's about 6 inches wide all the way around. It makes me sweat so much, it's not comfortable to wear. I see the waistband is narrower on this, but what's your experience with it?

Does anyone here have experience with the Sticky Holster for IWB carry? I saw these at the NRA Expo in 2015, but didn't buy at the time. I was thinking about buying a couple, but when I went to their website, they're $30 apiece. Do they really stay in place in IWB carry?

I reported it Tuesday, but I'm still seeing shilling today (Thursday). According to the eBay website, the first time is a warning, followed by removing the item, followed by suspension of the seller's account.

After thinking about it for a day, I've reported the seller to eBay. I'm curious to see whether eBay will take any action.

I found an RV I like on eBay. I've traveled to the location, checked it out, and I would like to buy it. However, it appears that someone is shilling the auction to run up the bid. Two weeks ago, this vehicle "sold" on eBay, yet it's now relisted. The "buyer" has very low feedback and has placed over 100 bids on items in the last 30 days with nearly 100% being on this sellers items. The same buyer is currently bidding on 4 items, a motorhome, a 5th wheel RV, a 5th wheel toyhauler RV, and a motorcycle. I checked and found a similar pattern of what appears to be shilling in other items for sale by this seller. "Buyers" with very low feedback with up to 100% of their bids on items from this one seller. None of this reflects on the RV. I've owned RVs and spent an hour checking this one out. It's a decent vehicle and fits my RV criteria. I realize shilling is unethical and against eBay rules. That said, I didn't just fall off the turnip truck. I know shilling goes on all the time on eBay. I've seen it before on car auctions. Before I reacted, I asked a few of my friends and I've gotten a wide range of responses on what I should do, ranging from reporting it to confronting the seller to calling the seller and making a fair offer for the vehicle. I respect the opinions of TGO. What do you think I should do? Of course, I could also just report it and walk away. There are a zillion RVs for sale. I don't need to buy this one.

I do Me either. I'd point out that there are some mods you can make to the standard KelTec P3AT trigger to take out the slack in the trigger before the actual pull starts and shorten the pull after the trigger actually releases. Together they shorten the trigger pull by more than half. These two mods make these little guns (LCP, TCP, P3AT) easier to shoot accurately. You can find these mods at THEKTOG.ORG forum. You can also buy an aftermarket trigger that gets good reviews from P3AT owners. By the way, THEKTOG currently has a comparision of the Ruger RM380 versus the P3AT. I'm sure they'll be doing side by side comparisons of the LCP II with the P3AT soon.

Seems to me unless the trigger is special, there's nothing to interest me in this gun. I can buy a Shield for nearly $200 less.

Can someone explain the trigger to me? The article says it's shorter pull, but it also has the trigger safety thingy. This is a new trigger, right?

Thanks, rmiddle. I so seldom use the tablet mode that it won't be missed. What version of Linux are you running?

I need to look into this. Ubuntu has evolved into a first rate alternative to Windows.

I have several cheap laptops. I may just sell this one, but I love the clarity of the screen. I really only use it when going out to coffee shops and I don't want to carry the heavier 17 or 15 inch laptops. When I bought it, I thought I'd just upgrade the RAM and store files in the cloud or on a USB. However, 32GB is not enough to handle Windows 10 updates unless I don't install any programs on it. I know, Windows 10 is supposed to use a USB drive to help in these situations, but it didn't work for me. (EDITED: I would never have bought this laptop had I know the SSD and RAM were part of the motherboard. I just assumed I could buy a stick of 4GB RAM for $20 and have a decent 11", portable laptop. END EDIT ) I really like Ubuntu, but if I load it, I'll probably lose the touch screen and 2 in 1 convertibility, so that would be Plan C. Plan B would be to sell it. Chromebook is getting better. That might be a choice as well. I have Ubuntu loaded via Crouton on both my older Chromebooks. FYI, I just bought another 17" Dell Inspiron for home use for $220 during one of the Dell Outlet's flash sales. It has 6GB RAM and I didn't pay attention to the size of the hard drive (500GB or 1T) because it doesn't matter to me. I would rather buy an inexpensive laptop with last year's processor and then upgrade every 3 years or so. In my opinion, Windows is purposely designed to make older hardware obsolete, so it doesn't make sense to spend a lot of money on hardware, i.e, the laptop. Before the cloud (and Dropbox), I spent more for quality as more safety for my files, but now I see a laptop as a disposable item. I've had two Macs, but I was disappointed in both. I keep looking at them, but at $999 versus $220, it's a no-brainer for me.

New Dell Inspiron 17 (5755) AMD A6 7310 w/6GB of RAM arrived today. It is downloading at 243 Mbps on wifi, so I'm happy with that. Web page loading is about the same as it is on my old computer. I was unaware that web page loading was a factor of the website and not the computer. I'm trying another browser to see if it is faster. I'm currently using Chrome.

I'm updated this thread because most people switch cable providers and this will help them make a better decision. I called Comcast about the slow speed. I got someone in India reading from a script. Literally... it was almost laughable. Me: I'm having a problem with my router. It's slow. Rep: How can I help you today? Me: I'm having a problem with my router, it's slow. Rep: I'm sorry to hear you are having a problem. What is the problem? Me: I'm having a problem with my router. It's too slow Rep: I'm sorry to hear you are having a problem with your router. What is the problem? After 20 minutes she finally transferred me to a tech guy who spoke unaccented English and diagnosed the problem quickly. The Arris Gateway router/modem being sold at Best Buy is NOT the latest model used by Comcast. He suggested that I either rent their router/modem or get a separate router and modem. Separate units are better than the combined units. I thought that was good, unbiased advice. Score so far... Bad Service 1 Good Service 1 I went to Xfinity in Cool Springs and rented the new model for $10/month. The wait was 4 minutes and the process of getting it was... not kidding... less than 2 minutes. What great customer service! Score Good service 2, Bad Service 1 I got home and hooked it up. My wife's Wifi speed jumped from 42 to 146Mbps, but my older laptop couldn't get online! I stayed online with customer service for 91 minutes and finally gave up because I needed to be somewhere. Score Good service 2, bad 2. I assumed it might be a problem with my 4 year old laptop, so I ordered a Netgear AC600 USB wifi adapter for $23 on Amazon. When it arrived, I installed its software and then connected it. Checking this morning, I'm getting 156 Mbps download speed on wifi. I'm satisfied with the speed, but I'm disappointed that my webpages aren't loading 4x faster. After all, my download speed is 4x faster. I'd say that web page loading is maybe 25-50% faster. Again, I'm guessing it must be my old laptop, so I ordered a new one from Dell. It should arrive today. When I returned the Arris Gateway to Best Buy, they were very nice about taking it back after the 14 day return had expired. I explained that comcast had been delayed two weeks in installing my new system so I had only had it working for 5 days before returning it. Again, I talked to a tech guy at Best Buy who suggested the best choice for best speed would be a separate router and modem. He recommended the Asus RT-AC1900P router ($175) and the Arris Surfboard SB6190 modem ($135). Since that's $310 or nearly $340 after tax, I decided to stay with the rental router/modem from Xfinity for $10/month, since I get free support and can replace it free when a newer model comes out.

A year ago, I bought a Toshiba Satellite L15W-B1303 with 11.6" screen. PRO 2 in 1... folds into a tablet Great display with touch screen Lightweight Fast to boot with SSD drive CON SSD is too small... 32GB RAM is too small... 2GB. In my experience, Windows 10 needs 8GB of RAM to function adequately. SSD and RAM are built in to the mother board and not replaceable The SSD and RAM limits make this laptop almost unusable. It slows to a crawl with more than one webpage or one app loaded. Any thoughts on what I can do to improve performance?

Who is SG?

Thanks! I'll definitely do this. So far, my wife is loving the new system. Concerning the router, I have the brand new Arris router being sold as the Xfinity modem at Best Buy so the router shouldn't be slowing down my internet speed. I've tried a hard reset, but it didn't have any effect. Usually I'm getting 40Mbps, but occasionally I'll get 80Mbps. There doesn't seem to be any in between. It's either 40 or 80. Hardwired, it gets 92. 92 is pretty fast. I'd be content with that if I got that consistently. However, I'm supposed to be getting *up to* 300Mbps. 40 and 92 aren't up to 300. I was expecting about 100-200.

The Comcast package I ordered included internet up to 300mbps. I understand there are reasons why I wouldn't get 300Mbps, but it's probably worth a call to see if they can improve my speed. I live in the country. Maybe they need to run a new line to my house. I'm 150 yards from the main line on the highway. Maybe they need some sort of booster. Whatever, I'm going to call and complain/ask for faster service.

Update: On Thursday, the installer arrived on time. He was everything you'd want a professional installer to be. He hooked up the TV, my Yamaha receiver, my new Xfinity Arris modem, and the X1 platform at the 2nd TV. Wifi went from 30 Mbps to 80 Mbps. Hardwired went to 91 Mbps. I can't remember what I signed up for... was it 100 or 300 Mbps? I'll check after this and call if it was 300 Mbps. The xfinity remote is awesome, but it should be since I'm comparing it to our existing 2010 Directv system. I can just say "ESPN" and it will change the channel to ESPN. My combined internet/TV bill should drop about $150/month.

Update: I went online and signed up again on Sept 8. Installation was supposed to be today Sept 13. I called when they didn't show and the woman (an Indian, judging by her accent) told me I wasn't signed up. She could provide no response as to why. Apparently, they had all my order information on file, but no record of me signing up. She set me up for installation on Thursday... two days from now. If I hadn't rearranged my day to be home all afternoon today, this would be funny.

I just bought a used car, 2008 Mini Cooper S. I'm used to trucks and station wagons with lots of space, but this thing is tiny... not even enough room for a spare tire. I'm trying to figure out how to carry basic road emergency gear and tools. It has nothing in the storage area under the back hatch, which is only about 18" square and 4" deep. What should I add to this list? Slime Safety Spair Kit (air pump, Slime, gauge) Tire Plug Kit Multitool Screwdriver with multiple bits Knife LED flashlight Bungies Cord/Thin rope Drop cloth (doubles as a wrap to keep stuff from rattling) Multimeter (small and I have a spare, so why not?) What about jumper cables? The storage space is too small for a full sized jumper cable. I'd also carry a fire extinguisher and a first aid kit behind the seat. What am I missing?

This is all good advice. Let me add these tips. An LCP/P3-AT in the pocket is way better than a $1,500 handgun in a drawer at home. As life-saving devices go, handguns are inexpensive because their resale value is so high. If your current gun doesn't quite fit your needs, buy another one and sell the first one here. You won't lose that much. Personally, I have several different guns for different needs. I have the P3AT for pocket carry in dress pants, a Kahr PM9 for pocket carry in heavier pants, an IWB gun for winter carry, and a few bigger guns that I can wear OWB under a coat or when I'm out on the farm. If you're new to handguns, don't buy a gun with a very light, short trigger as your first gun. Yes, they're fun to shoot, but it is really, really, really easy to allow a finger to slip onto a trigger when reholstering or picking up a weapon until you have done it a thousand times.