enfield

  Nice avatar!  That Karen Gillan is a real looker!

"One night in Birmingham Al, what shouldn't I miss?" Your ride the next morning!

I lost some ammo for a year and a half - it was in a Christmas popcorn can.  Seemed like a good idea at the time.   My memory has gotten so bad that I try not to hide things any more.  But they end up hidden just the same.  I need help!

Let's make this thread a sticky!

A pair of Jack Russells - miniature chain saws.

NAA .380 Guardian in a rear-pocket holster

This^^.  Put two of the thin cutoff wheels back-to-back on your dremel and grind a straight groove for a standard flat-blade screwdriver.   This method is the weakness of any "security" screws also.  They can all be defeated with a dremel and a screwdriver.

[URL=http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/enfield03/media/guide_zps671e5346.png.html][/URL] $113 at Cabelas

My 638-2 is not +P stamped, and I have an email from S&W stating that it's OK to shoot +P in it.  The Catalog agrees.   Quote from the Standard Catalog for Model 36:   "36-9 (August 1996): J magnum frame introduction: rated for 38 +P. . . . "   So beginning with model 36-9, the pistol is rated for +P.

The frame was beefed up later in production to handle .357.  At that time, S&W started recommending +P .38 Special loads.  I can look up the date if you're interested.   158 grain standard pressure hollow point wadcutters should make a great load for this pistol.

I used to do a lot of bass fishing, but not any more.  Don't even own a boat now.

Just a little tidbit to consider - I have Hughes satellite internet and two security cameras, 1 D-Link and 1 Foscam.  D-Link can do, all by itself, the double port-forwarding required so that I can view the camera when I'm on the road.  Foscam engineers haven't a clue on how to do it.

Merkur double-edge razor and a mug and brush. 100-packs of Personna blades are dirt cheap on Amazon and they're US made.

Bought my first Ford in 1975 and have owned nothing but since then. Never had the problem and never heard of it that I recall.

License change should take no more than going to a Driver's License office and paying the TN renewal fee, $50 as I recall.

Not a gunsmith, but thinking that soaking won't cure "internal corrosion" if there is any; that only disassembly and cleaning/replacing of parts can fix corrosion. Considering your problem and the age of the gun, a thorough cleaning might be in order. I wouldn't soak a revolver in anything.

Howdy and welcome!

It reminds me of Myrtle Beach without the ocean.  I don't see the attraction that some folks do.

  The Morse code requirement has been gone for years.  There are no amateur licenses that require any Morse.

On an open-face reel, I open the bail and move it around to the 'stop' that flips it closed.  Then I see how much effort it takes to close the bail using the reel handle.  Lighter is better.   A drag adjustment on the back of the reel is handier to adjust while you have a fish on, but I believe the front adjustment (a knob on the front of the reel) is a lot more common.   Anti-reverse bearings in the drive mechanism are wonderful.   The retrieve ratio of the reel is somewhat important - a higher ratio will retrieve more line per handle revolution, but provide less power for cranking a biggun in.  The lower ratios give more power but less speed.   Ask the guy at the counter, and be wary if he steers you towards specific brands or higher-priced reels.  You don't always get what you pay for.   That said, I have a couple of 50 year old Mitchell reels that are just as good now as they were when I bought them, and they're good!

Yep - if you're going to toss a lure that's 1/2 oz or heavier, you really need a baitcaster to do that.  If you're going to fish for bass or cats for example, you'd most likely need a baitcaster sooner or later.   Open-face works best for the lighter lures.  Shimano makes some highly-regarded and high-priced reels.  I haven't been impressed by them.  I have a couple of Quantum reels and an Abu Garcia that I really like, but you can't buy based on brand.  I'd go to Bass Pro and spend some time at their reel counter trying out the feel of different reels.   I have the most fun with an ultralight reel on a 6' rod.  Most ultralite rods are shorter than that, but they're too short to cast well.  I would have bought a 6-1/2' if they'd had one.

The NWS will issue a tornado warning if either or both of two things occur:    1) the storm center in Norman Oklahoma believes, from their analysis of the radar data, that there is a high likelihood of a tornado in an area and/or 2) a qualified spotter reports that he/she has actually seen a tornado.   In the second case, the local NWS office will issue the tornado warning.  Tornadoes are confirmed by visual contact or by analysis of the destruction after the fact.   You should listen to both the NWS warnings and your local Skywarn net.  A Crane CCRadio2 will pick up both (if the Skywarn net is on 144 Mhz)  and is, incidentally, the best-performing portable am/fm radio I've ever had.

  That's exactly what the terms mean to the National Weather Service.  It's the entertainment folks on TV (yes, including the Weather Channel and all the 'news' networks) that confuse the issue and the viewers.

  The 120B is supposed to be a good radio.  It's the one we bought for our club communications trailer.

[URL=http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/enfield03/media/April_27_2011_severe_weather_warnings_K4DLS_zpsb675cbf3.jpg.html][/URL] This shows the watches and warnings issued on April 27, 2011. The red polygons are tornado warning areas. The white dot is where I was, running a Skywarn net. There was nothing funny about it, and I'd prefer to get warnings that never materialize, rather than get another one of these. The National Weather Service is trying to save lives.