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Everything posted by TNWNGR
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An I thought Frankenglock was ugly....{:0(
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Looking to Buy.....kimber solo......springfield emp...
TNWNGR replied to HOLEPUNCHER's topic in Handguns
OK, back up the bus and define the mission here, is this a DCW or simply something cool to add to the collection. I can relate to either option because learning how new gun's work is a good thing to know. Now, as to like's and dislike's, I'm not to keen on Kimber's for pretty much the same reason's as Metalhead. A compact 9x19 in a 1911 platform though is nice, one of the best prstol's I ever had was a Colt Series 70 Gov't Model in 9x19 that ran like a Swiss Watch. I'm going to throw out three other option's that should also be considered: GLock 26, SIG P-225 (if you can find a used one) or a Ruger Lc9. The G-26 just plain work's, so does the P-225 and I'm really liking the Lc9, all of them are built to hold up to constant use. -
Poor? No. You have a perfect first set up and I wouldn't be in any hurry to add new gun's until I'd developed the skill set to be ready for them. I'd suggest you invest in ammunition and a good pistol training school. Next, find an Appleseed shoot and go to it for some good rifle instruction. After this consider a 12 ga. pump shotgun and then a cood centerfire rifle, as cool as AK's are I'm not sure that's your best route but if you find some friend's to let you shoot their rifle's then you'll know. You are doing just fine, in fact better than I did when I first started out.
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The CZ-75 is IMMO the go to pistol for DA/SA shooting, I can't comment on the newer one's but those I shot circa 1980-1995 were great. However, your Springer is a leap forward in tech from them, why not just change barrel's?
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Your correct about the S&W K-frame round butt but take a closer look at the SP101 side by side with a K-frame round butt. Then look at the different replacement grips for each revolver. I think that you'll find that the out of the box Ruger grip's are very comfortable and a little shorter than the S&W. This work's out pretty well for larger hand's as the little finger find a natural rest under the grip. Bear in mind these comment's are coming from a guy who think's the S&W round butt M-10, M-12 and M-19 are the best gun's S&W has ever produced and who also believe's that the M-15 2" is the best of the best.
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On this I'd go with the SP101 because of it's grip size and ease of use for small and large handed shooter's. I would also go ahead and get a Wolff Spring kit for it in order to provide a more user friendly trigger pull. What you'll end up with is a very nice field and plinking revovler that both of you will use. BTW this wasn't an easy decision because I'm a true blue S&W wheel gun guy, I just see the SP101 as a better choice.
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I still remember reading the pre-68 GCA firearm's add's in the American Rifleman as a teenager and thinking how expensive the surplus gun's were. Given that I didn't have any money at that time and age they were, it just sure would have been nice to have purchased a few for collection investment. ;-)
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Congrat's on the KT P-32 purchase and I hope you find the Seecamp you want as well.
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That is a fine looking pistol, looks as if it’s been arsenal reconditioned or even better was never issued. I’m certain your new addition has found a home, hopefully you have a family member you will pass it on to in time.
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Interesting looking pistol, very futuristic, thanks for posting the pictures and observations. Individual preference in brand, product and features is simply that, if enough people purchase a given model of pistol it is successful. If they don’t it is either modified or dropped from the product line. SIG understands this concept and undertakes the risks involved with new products.
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Yes, what did you decide to go with.
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The one thing I'd like to see KT offer or change on the PF9 is a slightly larger trigger guard, I think that one change would make it better. I'd buy another PF-9 if they did that because it would still be smaller than the LC9.
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Loot followed me home (No more plastic guns for me)
TNWNGR replied to Trooper Joe's topic in Handguns
Man, I remember when those first came out and how everyone thought that they were the cat's meow. Just a super nice gun to find and make your own, good for you. -
The longest portion of doing the C&R form me was the time waisted in getting around to following all of the very simple steps needed to do it.
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It is possible you need a replacement bushing and follower spring. Otherwise you have either a very dry slide or some foreign debris binding it as it cycles. Pretty much run of the mill wear and tear maintenance for the Series 70 1911 GM. FWIW I this is my personal favorite of the Colt 1911 GM made.
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Another thing to consider on firearms transfers such as lower receivers is that many gun shops already order and stock lower receiver’s themselves. Since most of them purchase these receiver’s in bulk shipment’s they often offer them within dollars of what an online dealer does. By the time you’ve paid shipping and transfer fee’s you generally haven’t saved any money. I prefer to spend my money with the local dealer in order to better support that business and help them continue to stay open. The few transfer’s I’ve done have been for older non C&R gun’s the dealer would only have in stock because someone traded them for another gun.
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Refinishing options for small parts
TNWNGR replied to graycrait's topic in Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting
Very good to know, I have you fellow's bookmarked now, thanks. -
My LEA has a trainer we sent to Mossberg armory school; it was a simple friction fit and unscrewed. One guy held the gun another removed the shell tube.
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I like the 2.5" M-19 and have owned mine since 1977, I've never considered parting with it. IIRC the code's you mentioned are for the type of front sight and rear sight blade insert. I'm pretty sure the wide/narrow hammer/triggers were described as such.
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Yes, that is the more practical way to look at it, the same applies to having more than one upper for an AR-15 or clone as well. Still, the ability to change calibers with a barrel and magazine change is pretty cool, H&K played that line pretty heavy with the H&K 4 and it’s too bad it was a poor quality flop. 9x19 ammunition is less expensive than .40 S&W so it is conceivable a person could come out enough ahead to do ok in the end.
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I own the same model Mossberg myself and have seen the shell tube removed to clean another one with some interior rust.
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I like the newer Buckmark in DAdams posting, it look's great and one will go on my "start planning to buy" list.
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Yep, the hard crome finish and your 100% right the KT P-32 doesn't look as good as the Seecamp, it never will either. Form may follow function but looking good does add cool points. :-)
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The average end user legally carrying a SDP or HG will not continue to carry a full sized service pistol and in the end leave it in the car or at home. The SR9c will be more comfortable to shoot than your LCP or even an LC9 is so look at it that way instead.
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OK, obviously DuraKote or CeraKote are longer lasting options for painting the slide of your PF-9 with, but the pretty much require an air compressor and air brush. Try this instead to save you some money and also make your slide look a lot better. Brownells AlumaHyde II http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1117/Product/ALUMA-HYDE-reg-II Field strip your pistol and dissemble the slide, use paint remover to take off any paint and ATF or Naval Jelly to remove any bluing that’s left. Ideally you would want the slide media blasted for a matt texture but you don’t have to do this. You can use fine grit sand paper with small pieces of wood to clean up any really bad spots (it’s easy, just go slow). Now, you want to really clean the slide and it’s pieces with a good degreasing solvent, use rubber gloves while cleaning and afterwards while handling. If you’ve got an air compressor use it now, if not use some canned air. Set the parts out to dry overnight where they won’t get touched. Now, using rubber gloves with your spray paint do a couple of practice sprays on cardboard to check the coverage then do your first spray coat. Hang the parts from a wire and let dry, then repeat if needed, follow directions to bake in the oven. It helps if you plug small holes in the slide with toot picks and q-tips and the inside rail coverage doesn’t need to be too heavy but a small, thing, flat file cleans up things. All of this is just fiddley work, not hard, just not fun either. I’ve done an old .22LR rifle and a single shot shotgun with this method using spray paint.