maroonandwhite

Wow. The coax looks super nice. I hadn’t seen it before. I’ll have to figure out the best way to insert primers since the built in seater looks slow. Do most of you do them with a handheld seater? I was using a Lee turret press before that had a gravity feed seater.

I’m looking to get back into rifle reloading. I did the bulk pistol thing on a Dillon 550 when I was doing a lot of competitive shooting and just got sick of reloading. Once the word normalizes I plan to get a nicer single stage press to load rifle ammo. I’m really leaning heavily toward the Hornady Iron press but looking for some advice and recommendations. I would eventually get a trickle powder measure but would initially rely on manual powder dump. My main reason for the Hornady is to take advantage of the lock and load system.

This just inspires more confidence to me. And looks better if that should be a factor.

I’ve been going back and forth on my HD rifle with the light on the right side (right handed) using a pressure switch, or having it on the left side with no switch and activating with thumb. It’s certainly easier to use the pressure pad but I’m not a fan of routing wires everywhere. I am also concerned with reliability over time and the chance something gets snagged. What do most of you use on your HD weapon? Im thinking of putting it on the left side and moving back a notch so I can activate with my thumb

I talked to a friend last night who has a pencil barrel. He said it’s not sub moa by any means but it has been working decent enough for 2-gun matches. He also said it opens up some after a few shots but is still accurate enough for larger steel targets. I’ll just have to compare the saved weight vs using a standard profile and an ultra light Handguard. I may also do a shorter barrel with a pinned / welded brake to make 16”.

That could be a fun thread. “Describe the House/Senate in one word. “

I just assumed they did this now given the current distractions. I had no idea it’s a common occurrence. I’ll change “sneaky” to “conniving”.

Sneaky devils.

I’m getting started on building a new upper. I’m wanting this to be a general purpose rifle that will double as a 2-gun rifle. Not fully tricked out but somewhat light and accurate. Usually out to 400 yards at most on steel targets. I’m wondering if most go with a standard profile or a smaller pencil profile to save weight. I’ll probably do a Midwest lightweight 15” handguard, adjustable gas block, mid-length gas system and a 1-6 power Strike Eagle. There will be times when I’m shooting 30-50 rounds a stage so I’m concerned with heat in the pencil barrels. Any advice?

Worth a shot for the price. Thanks.

That’s interesting. Any experience with one?

I ordered 1000 rounds of 9mm last week at normal pricing. Just because. I called today and was told they are 1-2 weeks out on shipping. Crazy times. Luckily....I can wait.

I recently picked up a 10.5” 5.56 to use as a truck/critter gun and possibly for home duties. I live out in the sticks with no neighbors so it’s nice to have a small rifle ready to go for anything that may come up. Now to the question: I currently have an AAC 7.62 SD on .308 and am considering getting a QD flash hider for the 5.56 for double duty. From what I see I’m not sure the suppressor will have much perceived benefit on reducing the possible hearing damage. I’ll use ear pro outside of any bump in the night situations where I don’t have time to put on the muffs. Second part: I don’t want to mess with an adjustable gas block. I currently have an F marked block installed with a larger gas port similar to the MK18. I like the fixed sight so I’m also wondering if the gas will be intolerable by suppressing an already over gassed rifle. My goal is to reduce any permanent hearing damage. If it’s way too much expense, added weight, and overall trouble trying to obtain a minimal result then I’ll hold off. I love the way this thing is balanced without a suppressor.

Thanks for all the feedback. Looks like I should steer clear of biometric.

Hadn’t thought of that. I’d just hate to forget to do it.

That’s my setup now. I’m just wanting to add that extra layer of safety in case of human error.

That’s what I’m concerned with. I want something that will open 100% of the time but still fairly quickly.

Now that I have a little one roaming around it’s time to decide on a small safe for my nightstand gun. I’d prefer something that I could anchor down somehow but not a requirement. What have y’all found works best for fairly quick access? I’d only need one handgun capacity.

I agree it is a beast. I’ve shot it a couple times and for some reason it isn’t that bad to my taste. It’s not a range toy by any means but I won’t notice it when shooting an elk. On your point, I’ve been wondering about a properly lapped set of steel rings vs the Burris style with the plastic inserts.

I’m looking at scoping my .300 RUM and am wondering if I need to get anything past some good steel bases and rings. I have no need for compensated bases. I’ll most likely put a 4-12 on it. Possibly a little more. It’s going to be a hunting rifle for larger game. Standard SPS stock weighing somewhere around 7.5-8 pounds. Any suggestions or experience?

Same in my household. We have a 1.5 year old who like to “fake cough” to get our attention. I swear I’ve checked his temperature 30 times. He’s seems fine but it’s a terrible time for allergy season to start up.

First case just popped up in my neck of the woods. Fayette County.

That might work since it’s smaller and square. Just don’t want the obvious pouches and stuff on the outside. Can you tell me who made it and / or the model? Thanks.

Same idea but I’m concerned the magazine would interfere with most of those. Maybe if I switch to 20 rounds mags....

Just wondering if y’all have some solid ideas for a good case for my 10.5” SBR? I don’t want a rifle case. I’ve seen some use tennis racquet cases but they are a little small for mine. Simple and slim is the key. I don’t have anything on this gun other than irons with maybe a small dot.