graycrait

When one of shooting friends ask me to do theirs this is about as wild as I go with someone else's Glock, of course you can throttle back from this as much as you want. Tools: Long shaft bench grinder with narrowest grinding wheel you can find to take off the finger humps, drill press vice to hold the frame, Dremel with a couple of sanding barrels and a 10.00 woodburning pen from WalMart.

With my bench grinder, dremel and a 10.00 walmart wood burning pen this takes about 1hr 30 minutes or thereabouts if you stick with it. I get amused when I have someone tell me that a Glock is "perfect" stock or that I should learn to adapt to the tool and not make the tool adapt to me. I still wish Glock would make a single stack 9mm somewhat similar to the G36, but with about 3/4" more length in grip , then I could really get to carving to make a pleasant pistol. The Glock plastic frame is a pretty good starting point from the factory for further "refinement." Marry the Glock frame with some Brownells Acraglas and you can really make something interesting. I beefed up a G21 one time for a 500 Cor Bon slide/barrel and trimmed up a G19 to the point I am still afraid it the frame might collapse, but carry it regardless because it is HK P7-like. My only stock Glock is my 17L with BoMar sights and personally tuned trigger (see lower left of attachment)

Here is my latest personal Glock. If you are "Glockster" you will note: 1. Removal of all Glock humps and bumps 2. Shaving off the backstrap even more and cutting up and radius where the trigger guard meets the grip. 3. Cutting grooves for fast access trigger finger (all cuts and stippling are mirrored L & R). 4. Remove the point on the trigger guard for a variety of reasons. 5. Stipple the entire grip because if you need this gun you will need to be able to snatch it, grip and and go. 6. Any stippling that is offending or a hinderance can simply be lightly sanded to user preference. 7. Sights are plain black Novak rear and Trijicon night sight front.

Having shot many dozens of models and makes of .22 plinkers, owning many of them, built in the past 9 decades I would go with the Savage. Savage gets you a pretty good shooter with the ability to really test crazy ammo. Semi-autos don't action with just everything, bolt guns generally do. I've had a 597 and shot the Savage. I'm borrowing a friend's Savage to test some ammo out in a few weeks, one of those new ones with the black Boyd's stock. I just traded off a wonderful CZ 452 Ultra Lux. You are right about 10/22s, they can be a money pit. I currently have 4, 1 is stock. I buddy brought over his new to him vintage Remington 40X the other day and had just gotten back from CMP with a nice Kimber 82G. Here is what I traded the CZ for, 10/22 with hammer/sear work by me, stock is Hogue rubber overmolded with a Green Mountain Running Boar barrel and Millet multi dot Red Dot:

Holy Smoke!! I hope those are on rimfirecentral.com That is some serious work. Very impressive.

Although I like a lot of .22s these are more or less my favorite plinkers:

This is essentially a Delton AR shoots well with inexpensive ammo out to 400 yards. No MALFs so far.

It did sound a bit like rent-a-cop advise for maybe an armed security guard or the like. Many think handcuffs carried by non-LE is a bit mall-ninja like. Most of the advice there isn't practical either with a lot of not so good info and some downright bad advice. Interesting comments. I'll pass them along. Fellas gotta agree to disagree or no one learns anything. Craig

4 friends of mine share what they think they need for home defense or other emergencies. Craig (Charles is a major city police sergeant I met a couple of months ago), I agree with your FBI guy...a handgun for home defense, as well as person defense out in public, is always your best bet. You must also carry your weapon in a quality rig and with a beefy belt...not your typical 1" dress belt, as that will fail you when you need it the most. But you have to be prepared if you encounter a threat. In other words, extra mag(s), and cuffs to detain the dirtbag. Of these accessories, an extra mag would be most important. I just went through "active killer" training with simunitions this past week. It was amazing how quick ammo went when you have an active shooter that you are trying to neutralize. Another viable option for home defense would be a 14" 870, with a single point sling, like the one I carry around. This allows you to carry the maximum firepower(of course with a side saddle attached), and at the same time allows you to just drop the 870 and it will stay hung at the low ready if you need to cuff, give medical attention or whatever you might need to do with your hands...and pick it right back up if you need to engage another suspect. A shorty shotgun does not give you an option to sling it nor does it give you needed ammo...as you only get 3 or 4 rds, tops. With a shorty, you better hope there is only one dirtbag and it only takes you a couple of shots to neutralize him. My newest home defense weapon is the Vector V51, with a green laser...the ultimate in home protection!(WAY overkill). I'd actually only use this if there was no one else home at the time. Whatever you do, practice is key to muscle memory and possibly your survival. Always be thinking of "what ifs" as you are walking through the mall or out in public. Also, when you engage a bad guy and put him down, ensure that all around you realize that you are the good guy, or you will get shot by other good guys or responding PD...just something else to think about. Just my .02, Charles (Ex-Army, Ex-PD officer, now FBI) I agree with you completely, though I'd strongly suggest a Glock 19/17/34 with a X400 (TLR2 for the thrifty). G17 or bigger mag (not a G18 - maybe a USPSA extension mag to push it to 21rds). I'd pair it with a Blade-Tech holster on a 2" Belt (mine is Blackhawk), with one+ spare mag, flashlight (in addition to the weaponlight), small blow out kit (tourniquet and OLAES bandage) handcuff case with steel cuffs, and a pouch that fits my personal cell phone, designed to fit comfortably over your jammies. That is a home defense kit, not a shorty 12. The reason your friend probably liked the shorty is because he ran a "house" course that didn't involve having to "buy" the guy he shot (can't go hunting for targets after you shoot a guy unless he is obviously dead, and even then it is suspect) provide aid (to self or even the bad guy), stay on with 9-1-1, secure a shot guy who is being a prick, or secure a guy who was compliant. A handgun gives you the option to reholster, work one-handed, etc. The shorty shotgun, while mean and badass, is more a specialist's gun. Basically, we like what we like. I go to a shooting school, I don't want to shoot three rounds and babysit cardboard at gunpoint, which is what the real world is. I do want to blast the **** out of cardboard with a shredding 12 gauge. So I think $200 for a tax stamp is worth it, at least for a month. Knowing what I know and what training I've received, the set up above is the ideal option. Screw the 12 gauge and focus on the pistol. I have at my disposal a 14" 870, 14" M4, Glocks, 1911s, MP5, etc. I keep either a 1911 or a Glock on the nightstand and a partner in bed who has a phone and knows how to call dispatch. If I was living alone I'd build another belt as described above (my work belt is similar) and keep my G19 w/ X200 and G17 Mag on the nightstand. I admit I keep an 18" 870 in the corner but it wouldn't move unless She took it after I moved out. (Active Army guy with lots of deployments) Interesting conversation. I'd like to add my two cents. I also keep a "go-bag" in the event of a disaster emergency. I also have a smaller defensive bag with items similar to what is listed. I like the idea of the flash drive with important documents...I'll add that. Here's my disaster bag. It's a Osprey backpack (5400 cu in.) with the following: Two-person tent (5lbs) Army bivy system (gortex shell, patrol & intermediate bags) Water purifier ("first need XL", 16oz, purifies to .01 micron-virus,bacteria,cysts) multi-tool three days supply of food emergency radio (light weight, crank operated) signal devices (VS-17 panel, mirror, strobe light) hand axe camelback, 2qt canteen, nalgene bottle first aid kit (army quick tourniquet, army pressure dressings, various bandages, scissors, anti-biotic ointment, gauze, snake bit kit, alcohol wipes, gloves, surgical tape, cravat) Surefire flashlight w/ spare batteries & headlamp light (hands free) waterproof notepad and mechanical pencil 550 cord MSR "whisper light" international burner (15oz) w/ one bottle of fuel (white gas, diesel, unleaded fuel capable) small zip lock bag w/ waterproof matches, zippo lighter, and dryer lint (help start fires) compass small towel space blanket fishing line and hooks lightweight rain jacket Of course, my HK .45 pistol and M4 w/ 12ea loaded mags. are coming with me. Mike (Retired Army) Craig, My bedside outfit is a combo of yours and your friends. Based upon your suggestion I added an extra set of car keys and now based upon your friend's advice I'll add a pair of steel S&W handcuffs that I traded a haircut for a couple of years ago. Each of our cars are outfitted with much more extensive kits (rucksacks). I still have my 12ga next to the bed. I've shot several hundred rounds on the course (mostly low recoil 00-buck) since outfitting it with a Gunslinger sling and a laser/light combo thingy. I don't really use the laser but thought I may use this thing on a pistol at some point if I ever get one with a Picatinny rail. I can use both hands, climb, crawl, etc. wearing a slung shotgun and rapidly transition from shotgun to pistol, etc. When cinched up real tight the Gunslinger makes unsupported offhand shooting rock solid. Your friend is probably correct and I'll probably never need the gun or the kind of proficiency I've developed but I'm glad I have both. My bedside (home defense) kit is contained in a Maxpedition Manta bag hanging on the headboard. - an army bandage & a fancy quick clot bandage - Surefire Backup flashlight - cell phone - spare eyeglasses - a cheapo flash drive containing PDF images of all important documents, passports, DLs, Class III stamp, Concealed Carry Permits, Insurance policies, deed to house, car titles, extra passport photos, etc. - P230 with one spare magazine - extra set of house & car keys - cuffs (when I dig those out of the garage) - leatherman tool - extra 12ga ammo: 2 rifled slugs, 2 BB, 2 00-buck - pencil & notepad The goofiest things I have in my bag are a pair of those neoprene slip-on swim/surf shoes and some cheap thin leather gloves. Having chased a burglar 6 blocks from my mother's house next door to mine through yards and over fences while barefoot taught me a lesson. I was wearing nothing but a swim suit that day and when I caught him that's all I brought to the fight. Wish I'd had a grab bag that day. He broke out of state prison not too long ago but they caught him within a week or so and he's back in the joint. Meth is whack.

This one cost me 3 very nice old Mossberg .22s. This is the model I have before I swapped out the skelton stock for the folder. Czechpoint - Product - vz. 58 Rifles - Sa vz. 58 Sporter Craig

The guy I traded to get this with has 3 real deal Czech Vz 58s he special ordered some time back from Cz. This is a D-Technik, so he let me have the "odd ball" for a decent price.

After working on quite a few DA revolvers of different brands I only recommend Ruger or S&W. One of the problems I have seen in half dozen Taurus of late is the cylinder stop slots are poorly machined and allow the revolver to freewheel backwards because that part of the slot on the cylinder is not deep enough or sharp enough. Those spurless security company turn-in S&W MDL64s that you see in stores from time to time for less than 300.00 are good deals.

I had a Remington 700 in .223 I wish I wouldn't have gotten rid of it. This was a fast handling bolt action. However, my AR is more fun and I can shoot it at least as well.

That shooting is good enough for the ammo used. Your AR is similar to the one I had a friend build up out of mostly Delton parts. For my purpose a 3-9 scope might have made more sense over my 1.5-4x20 scope cause those 400meter shots make my "old" eyes work.

1. CZ vz58 in 7.62x39, weight as pictured 7&1/4lb This is a NIB unfired vz58 I traded for last weekend. I took off the skeltonized stock and added the folding stock. I also added a Scout Mount with a Mueller Quick Shot halo sight. This CZ vz 58 is very high quality production values with milled receiver. Vz. 58 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Czechpoint - Products - vz. 58 Rifles Pics: http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab181/graycrait/VZ58Extd.jpg http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab181/graycrait/Tennis762.jpg

2. Marlin Papoose in .22LR, weight is 3&3/4lbs pictured. As you can see it is pretty small package and can be carried along with a lot of other crap in your typical book bag/day pack. Stock is Ramline for 14.95 from Numrich, sights are 69.00 Tech Sights, conversion of the fixed Ramline to folder is 6.95 from Centerfire Systems. Marlin Model 70P - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I went the Hi Point and Kel Tec route. They work. I think you will find yourself happier with either/or or all: AK47, SKS Paratrooper or CZ Vz 58. 7.62x39 ammo is cheap and effective. I have had or have the following semi autos: 1) Hi Point 995 2) Kel Tec Sub 2000 (glock) 3) Mak 90 (AK 47) 4) SKS Paratrooper 5) Russian SKS 6) CZ Vz 58 I always come back to the SKS Paratrooper over all the others

1gewehr, Thanks, I think I will get one one of these days. They have a grip angle similar to my favorite .22s, the 422/622/2206 S&Ws. Craig

Has anyone had range time with this pistol? I had a Zastava M88 and was underwhelmed but a friend told me I had to try the Tokarev out. I'd like some first hand info from a Tokarev user before buying. Craig

OK, call me stupid, but that is besides the point. I picked up a pair of Rossi revolvers, a J-frame for 85.00 and a K-frame with broken hammer for 10.00. I put a DAO only hammer from Numrich in the K-frame sized DA Rossi and every time I put it back together with the hammer block in the trigger does not freely reset all the way every time. It will run in DA sometimes 6-10 times then the trigger has to be nudged forward just the least little bit so that I guess the sear clears the trigger. At least that is what I am thinking. With either the hammer block out or the side plate off the thing runs like a champ. Oddly enough, the J-frame Rossi has the same problem. When I was working on the J-frame I couldn't figure it out so got a couple of extra hammer blocks from Numrich, as well as a rebound block - that now seems like a waste of money. Sideplate off or hammer block out the thing runs, put the hammer block in, tighten the sideplate and the J-frame's trigger won't reset, just like the K-frame. I've been doing Miculek-like "Trigger Jobs" on S&W for years and have never run into this issue. I have a feeling there is something fundamental I am not doing right in reassembly but putting on a sideplate with a hammer block greased into its slot ain't rocket science, but it has me bamboozled. I've got the Kuhnhausen shop manual too, to no avail. Besides the cutoff saw for these two Rossies any suggestions? Craig

He thought I would enjoy his homespun philosophy, but not before he asked what I thought of the Walther P99AS Compact and then started to plot what trades he could come up with in trying to get the Walther. He won't trade 1911s, revolvers or Glocks. One time I asked him if he had a S&W Target Masterpiece: he comes out with a what looked like a matched set of a LNIB Mdl 14 & 17 he picked up in 1968, then said, "Lets go shoot them." Then there is the story of his Hamilton Bowen.....

I got this last night from an "old" friend. He was a WWII Marine veteran and oddly enough has or has had all the guns he mentioned, including his grandfather's 1911 that his grand dad carried in France in WWI. OK, so he has another dozen 1911s. Post WWII he used his GI Bill, traveled all over the world, eventually settling in TN with a pack of dogs out in the woods, still shoots everyday. Enjoy! Craig: You may salivate over, hunger for, chase after, and have fleeting romances with Hollywood Stars, but for enduring capacity, performance, reliability, and one to bet your life on you canot beat the reality of The Girl Next Door. I think it is much the same with semi-auto pistols. You may salivate over, hunger for, chase after, and have fleeting romances with the 1911s, Hi-Powers, CZs, Walthers, Sig Sauers, XDs, Rugers, and other such Hollywood Stars, but for solid enduring capacity, performance, ease of field stripping, reliability, and one to bet your life on the Glock is the one against which all other pistols must be compared. The plain jane Glock is the Reality of The Girl Next Door.

If you want to make sure your carry gun is reliable get a Glock, there simply is no other substitute. However, I like slim and tight in a OWB holster. With a Glock I use a Raven Ghost, but even then sometimes I don't like the fit. I also carry a hardchrome Keltec .32 just about 24/7 where permitted regardless what else I may be carrying. Lately I have been experimenting with the Star BM and now I have a Star BKS (aluminum frame) - I have plenty of spare springs & parts. These guns are accurate enough, pretty much dehorned and relatively slim. On the PF9: I have had two. I am also pretty well versed in fixing and prepping Keltecs. I wanted to really like the PF9, so much so after getting rid of the 1st one I got a second one a year or two later. I got rid of that one too. My ultimate test for a carry gun is can I grab it fast weak side one-handed and accurately fire it quickly at 7 yards in what can only be describe as my "phony" panic mode. I couldn't do it with the PF9 well enough to call it a carry gun for me. The PF9's weight, short barrel, caliber and muzzle flip all contribute to a hard to hold onto pistol when time and followup shots are of interest. Kahrs: I generally like them, but have only owned 1. The way the trigger pivot pin hangs down into the trigger guard bugs me. I have several friends who have had them, one who has 2 or 3 in his collection, but no one carries them. My "serious" friends all carry Glocks, along with S&W revolvers or Keltec .32/.380, one carries a S&W M&P and a couple carry 1911s. Because I like to paddle into the wind at times, am not a "serious or professional pistolero" I am experimenting with the Star BM. Suggestion: get a Glock 19, keep it forever, learn to shoot it well, modify your clothing style to carry it and then experiment with the usual suspects like S&W J-frames, Kahrs, Keltecs, maybe even Ruger SP101 - another very reliable gun but a chunk. You should shoot a Keltec PF9 one-handed weak side fast and see what you think. Sometimes I get the itch for another go at that gun, but my consicence tells me "no."

Picked up the "temporarily" fixed stock Ramline stock for a Marlin 795 from Numrich for $15.00. Got my Dremel out and whacked away at the stock to make room for the bolt release lever, mag release, trigger finger access and took the hump off the pistol grip. Also needed to seat the front of the stock trigger guard lower into the Ramline. Waiting for my SKS folder conversion kit from Centerfire for $7.95. Once finished I'll have a stock, when folded is shorter than the barrel, rigid enough and light at 3.98lbs pictured. Tech Sights for the Marlin 795 work. Why? With the synthetic stock that came with the Papoose there is no fore end and it is difficult for me to shoot it well unless I have some sort of conventional hold. That wand like barrel seems to wander for me regardless of sling technique. This set up provides an inexpensive fix which allows barrel take off and gives enough fore end without bumping the magazine. Numrich is the only place you can buy this stock that I know of and when that lot is gone, it is gone for good. Apparently Ramline is not going to produce any more in the foreseeable future. Note: this is a fully floated barrel;)

Viola Valley Shooting Range is a bit of a drive but you may find it suits your needs