graycrait

Tell me more about this receiver - RimfireCentral.com Forums Suppressor anyone? Sorry for the long delay in getting back with you guys on this. We are hoping to introduce this at SHOT show this year, with delivery expected first week of March. I say we, because I am now involved on a direct level with Primary Weapons on this project. Basically, PWS (well respected in the AR world) wanted to get into the rimfire market. After much negotiation, they agreed to purchase Predator Gunstocks from me, along with some ideas I had, which included the ARC lever, the ARC Trigger as well as my input into a barrel project and the Toggle Action. The end result is that I am now officially working for PWS, but I will still continue to run HawkTech Arms as a separate business. The Toggle Action reciever has recieved WAY more interest than we expected this early on. We are very excited about it. The current configuration will be suitable for .22lr and .17mach2. It will need to be modified for the wmr and hmr rounds, but if early interest is any indication of potential success, then you can expect a wmr/ hmr version to follow rather quickly. The action and bolt are proprietary, but all other 10/22 components will work with this action. Some stocks may need to be modified a bit to accomodate the slide portion of the action, but it has fit every stock we have put it in so far. We appreciate the tremendous feedback so far and look forward to bringing this to market. __________________ http://www.hawktecharms.com

I've had an Armscor (read RIA) .38 Super I converted to 9mm a couple of years ago. I have also had an RIA 9mm and a Dan Wesson Pointman 9. They all shot 9mm well. I just had to make the comment after I saw the Taurus 9mm 1911 arrive at Tn Gun Country. I've been seeing rumors about a Taurus 9mm 1911 for a few years and was surprised to actually see one.

I was down to Tn Gun Country in Clarksville yesterday and saw 9mm 1911s made by: RIA, Kimber and Taurus. This was the first Taurus 9mm I have seen. The RIA and Taurus were 5" the Kimber 4.5 I think. I've already had 3 9mm 1911s and can't fathom why I need another, but I have the itch. I would really like to shoot that Taurus. I hate "paying to play" every time I get a notion.

I meant to specify Ameriglo front sight GL-212-OR-C

Consider these front sights from Ameriglo also, I've started using them on two of my Glocks to see how they work, so far so good. AmeriGlo Weapon Sights | Special Combinations The best Glock shooter I know advocates these sights: 10-8 Performance Webstore I need to get some and try them out. Also, other than grip tape & sights I think you should not do anything else to your Glock in the way of aftermarket. The following link's activities, some extra mags, grip tape and good sights will set you up: The $0.25 Glock trigger job Get this book: Customize Repair Maintain Your GLOCK Pistol I've literally (not figurtively wasted a lot of money on Glock aftermarket parts), from stainless frames to custom trigger bars, slides, barrels, titanium parts, etc. If you carefully polish the metal contact points where the trigger bar pushes up the safety plunger, where striker meets the cruciform and where connector meets birds head of trigger bar you will realize a nice crisp Glock break at probably 1/2lb from stock. Also other than the striker the parts are comparatively inexpensive and available. This is a good place, one of many good places, to get parts: OMB's Express Police Supply - Distributor of 5.11 Tactical Equipment

Attached is a pic of 3 guns I scored today for a very good price. They are legal too! Dave, at TN Gun Country in Clarksville, bought a bucket load (OK truck load) of estate sale guns - I chose these 3. These are the guns that interested me. Of course there were sexier guns - why would I want those? These 3 suit me. 1. 1st Generation Glock 17 9mm made in 1988. I've never seen a rusty Glock extractor before. This will cement me in the plastic pistol hall of fame - where I belong. 2. 1911 .45 ACP: Essex frame with an Excercito Brasiliero (what the hell is that?) slide and no name barrel. I love that rear sight. This gun function tests safely, but the slide is a tad shorter than the frame. I call it the Less Beer Special. I think the firing pin and hammer need some work. I can't wait to shoot this one. I'm going to work on it till it is running like a raped ape, then sidle up quietly to the nimrods who have 3,500 Les Bears and see if their gun shoots as reliably or as good as my "Less Beer Special." 3. Infamous .22LR Phoenix Arms HP22. New these things cost a 100.00 bucks. This one ain't new. However it comes apart is not intuitive. This one will take a little study. I'm wondering if I should spring for the 5" barrel from the factory? I saw a 90%+ S&W Mdl 66 6" .357 go out the door from this sale for 225.00 plus tax and ATF. Don't know what else is in that estate sale but I understand anything from Walthers to Mak 90s and everything in between and worse. I saw a beautiful Remington 1100 go out the door for 300.00. What that nickel Colt MKIV 1911 went for was not near what it was likely worth. 98% of the guns have not even been put out on the shelves and will only be put out a little at a time due to room and current inventory. Remember, active/retired LEO & Military get 10% off most items in the store.

I would be interested to see if a Springfield Armory Mil Spec (Imbul Brasil made) would last as long as a Les Baer before needing a rebuild. Anyone seen an endurance test comparison test between a high end 1911 and the econo version? My former AMU gunsmith told me that their 50 meter bullseye 1911s needed to be rebuilt every 3-5000 rds. I wonder if the high end (thinking that they must be tighter) have the same issues. This is not a criticism, just a point of curiosity. Craig in Clarksville.

I've only had 2 ARs, one an Armalite and the esentially Delton that I now have. My biggest enemy these days is paper and cost of shooting. So the Delton has 20" 1:9 barrel and shoots cheap 55-62 grain ammo well - well, good enough for me out to 400 yards. A friend of mine who has dozens of ARs, and other similar rifles, parts all over the place and more money tied up in guns than I have in my house put it together for me. My guidelines were: cost, accuracy with cheap ammo, durability and reliability, in keeping that this is my "plinking" rifle, with a decent trigger. It works for me.

I hate to carry a 38oz+ (depending on make, rails, etc) handgun on my hip all day. I have only owned less than 10 1911s myself, put together a couple and fiddle with afttermarket from time to time. An acquaintance of mine has a dozen, pre-1945 and couple of Caspian handmades as he was an AMU gunsmith not so long ago and we talk this very subject. Another good friend has over a dozen 1911s, dating back to 1918 up to modern makes in all sizes. And I get to shoot friends' high dollar 1911s whenever I want to. Another friend of mine challenged me to perfect the sub-commander sized 1911 so I could be famous - I gave up on that as well as sub-commander sized 1911s. Heck I just gave up on 1911s. However, my last one was a 5" RIA 9mm and that pistol could shoot. I got more fun out of that gun putting it in other people's hands and let them shoot that thing, especially older dyed in the wool .45 1911 fellas. Another friend, a retired 70-something SF warrant officer and ex-AMU shooter gave me his Mil Spec Armscor 5" .45 1911 that someone had gifted him so that I could put in a couple of parts for him, new trigger, beaver tail and stone a couple of internals. He uses the gun just to make handmade grips mainly, as health prevents him from shooting much, but he likes a nice trigger. That was the easiest to shoot well 1911 I had in my hands lately and again, had several other 1911 fans shoot that pistol to make sure that I wasn't seeing something that wasn't there. I would suggest that any shooter wanting a either a Gov't or Cdr sized 1911 get one and shoot the tar out of it, learn to completely disassemble it and make parts fit better for a smoother running gun. If you can afford a Les Baer, then go for it and learn to shoot it well. If you can't/won't afford a Les Baer or other hi-dollar 1911 then get a RIA, Armscor, High Standard, Taurus, Springfield, etc. If you like the 1911, and want to shoot an officer's sized 1911 I suggest you find a relatively inexpensive Star BM (all steel) or Star BKM (alum frame) 9mm. It is just "similar" to the 1911, reliable if you respring it and get an aftermarket firing pin, and ever so easy to carry, cocked and locked. Don't have to tape down that infernal grip safety 'cause it ain't got one;) Man o' man there are a lot of handguns to try out, and I keep trying as many as I can. Craig in Clarksville

Get Customize Repair Maintain Your GLOCK Pistol This will tell you how to do everything to your Glock you may want to do it besides grip reductions. You can convert your 40 Glock to a 9mm by getting a 9mm conversion barrel (not the same thing as a straight 9mm barrel due to slide barrel hole size etc.). If you want to change mags, extractor, recoil spring -that is up to you for your intended purpose. You do not need to go to Glock Armorers course to completely disassemble and mod your Glock unless you have no mechanical ability or mechanical curiosity. The Glock is the simplest gun of any type, long or short, that I have come across. I suppose there is some warranty or legal mumbo jumbo but the Glock is way easier to completely disassemble than a clothes dryer, bicycle, carburator, toaster, etc.

Although I had a Sub 200o in Glock 9mm and liked it for what it was, it sure ain't a Czech built VZ 58 like the one I now have. Talk about a folder that fits under the truck seat:

If you look at the pics here I think you will see how easy they are to change on your rifle: CZ452® Rifle - adjustable aperture sights If you want to see more about how they work go here and do a search for Tech Sights: CZ / Brno - RimfireCentral.com Forums I tried several scopes on the UL, although they worked, they didn't look right and I had other scoped .22s. The Techs worked nicely placing the aperture closer to my eye rather than forward peep like with the J &P that slides in the stock rear sight. I tried those too. At 50 yards with good ammo the UL with the Techs would shoot well. I traded it to a friend who lives in Nebraska, now he has a pair.

I had one and tried out some of the aftermarket stuff on it. It took Glock 17 mags which was convenient. 9mm out of a carbine moves pretty well and the fun factor was huge for youngsters who could be allowed to safely shoot it. I could say pretty much the same about the HiPoint 9mm carbine, except HP has proprietary mags - which is not convenient. Bide your time and try and find a used one, buy it, play with it and then sell it for what you have in it. I am having more fun with a pair of SKS 16" Paratroopers and a Czechpoint VZ58 than I ever did with the 9mm "carbines" and ammo costs aren't much more.

You may want to try any of these 3 easy to it yourself additions: Yodave trigger kit and you may want to try: Yodave Products - Home A peep sight that fits in the same slot that the notch rear sight now resides: https://www.jnpgunsprings.com/product_info.php?cPath=10&products_id=148&osCsid=fwquijrmd Or some very nice "AR-style" sights: CZ452® Rifle - adjustable aperture sights

G19 also:

Depends a lot on the gun by model and brand. If it is an LEO/MIL priced Glock then probably no dickering. If it is 150.00 Marlin probably no dickering. If it is a AYA shotgun then maybe there is 18.00 wiggle room.

make sure it isn't a mag issue first, or try to ID that it isn't a mag problem before trying anything else. I've never had a FTF in a Glock 9mm and I use the cheapest ammo I can find for the range. I've owned over a dozen Glock 9mms and 4 or 5 19s. I don't nor have had a Gen 4 Glock of any kind. I've sometime taken a wooden pencil, using the eraser end and jammed the follower all the way down in repeatedly in a new magazines to see if they are "sticky" or have some debris impeding free flow of the spring and follower. Also make sure that the mag you are using isn't an old version, which I doubt is the case. What type of ammo were you using when you had the FTFs - factory jacketed solid point.

After spending some time fixing and tuning revolvers I would only go with S&W or Ruger. If you want a smallish revolver to send magnums downrange I would get the Ruger SP101. If you need a BUG that carries well in an ankle holster get a lightweight S&W .38. I've had 5 or 6 Taurus, a couple of Charter Arms and several Rossi.

I have a feeling that is tentatively born out in some reading I have been doing on rimfirecentral that if you were to take the Ruger, Buckmark, S&W 22A/S and S&W 41, Ransom Rest them all and use each gun's favorite ammo I doubt you would see much difference at 25 or 50 yards. I would throw my now discontinued 422/622 & 2206 in that mix also. You could go on and on adding good chambered/barrelled .22 pistols to the list. In general it seems that as each barrel/chamber is designed to shoot pretty well. Then it seems it comes down to trigger, action impulse and ergonomics and how each fits the use and user. I am glad that Tomcat4224 went with a S&W 22A. For most uses I think that the 22A is a very under rated pistol. I sort of talked a friend into getting a good looking used Sig Mosquito once, that Mosquito turned out to be the worst .22 pistol I have ever seen. Subsequent to my friend's Mosquito purchase I had fallen into a good deal for a 22A, which my Mosquito owning friend got to shoot. Yeah, he got it from me for a good price because I sort of felt guilty about encouraging him to get the Mosquito. Then one day a couple of fellas who fancy themselves .22 pistol shooters were hoorawing my friend for having a 22A at the range, after which he outshot them at all distances. Stick with the main players in the .22 pistol game and it would be hard to go wrong. One last thing about gun snobs. It seems to me that quite a few folks who spend "enormous" amounts of money on a gun assume that lesser priced guns are inherently inferior. I would suggest than any of the main player .22 makers make their mass produced guns at a price and with a process that does sometimes leave room for some improvements from an otherwise generally serviceable gun for most users. I do know that if you take an hour or two and about 80.00 worth of aftermarket parts you can make the much mass produced Ruger MK series shoot good enough except for the most well-trained bullseye shooters. If I can figure out how to shorten the Ruger's trigger reset distance I could eliminate just a tad more creep or pretravel.

I used to have a ported Titanium J-frame sized Taurus .357. I think it weighed about 13oz and I don't think they make them any longer. I got from a another range friend of mine. The only thing I did with it was load it up with various loads and hand to guys at the range who liked to talk big smack. I always got a kick out of watching "someone else" shoot that thing. We put a little post-it on the front "sight" over the ports, assuming we would see the post-it catch fire. That post-it became nearly microscopic confetti. That prompted me to think, "What if I had to hold that thing close in for a SD shot?" Would that jet coming out of the ports take my eye out, "clean out" my nose hair or eliminate my eyebrows or some combo of all three? Plus I couldn't make a quick grab weak-hand one-handed and shoot it well enough to pass that particular test of a "Save Your Butt" handgun.

If you must have one of the two you mentioned I would recommend getting the Walther. I can't say enough bad things about a Mosquito and its design. The Mosqquito has a great feel in the hand but that is about all the good I can about it. I've completely dismantled a couple of Mosquitos for friends and IMHO you should just ignore them. As a nut for "value" .22s you can't hardly beat the major players: Buck, Ruger and S&W. The Walther is OK, again in my opinion, not near the quality of the "Big 3," but they will work, are small and can be quite fun with or without a suppressor. Craig in Clarksville

Likely a lot of fellas on this forum better at shooting handguns than I am but I did some shooting with my Edward J. Almos (Flinstone) G26 at Cheatham County range today. Very easy gun to shoot at 25m. And did shoot an externally bone stock 17L against it that has BoMar sights. 17L has an 8&3/4" sight radius with the BoMars and the Glock with a Novak rear has 5&7/16" sight radius. Althought I hit the center bull and pretty much kept everything in the 10 ring with Russian ammo with the 17L I was keeping it in a tea cup saucer at speed with the G26 at 25m. My only complaint in the comparison was that the G17L was a little "slick" grip-wise fore and aft for precision shooting, ammo was cheap, looks like I need to get my tools out and rectify that "slickness" in the 17L.

leroy, I've done 30+ Glocks and some other guns with plastic grips, some plastics work better than others and some have more material than others. Like I said most are way less radical than this G26 I started this thread with. As far as grinding or hogging out a groove for the trigger finger I started this because I had to have a snapped tendon repaired in my strong hand trigger finger and was trying out different guns in the aftermath. During the rehab several things struck me: self defense handguns have to be able to be shot off-hand weak-hand reliably with follow-up shots on target; if bullseye target shooters radically make ergonomic changes to grips why don't others; which SD guns lend themselves to grip changes; why do gun makers make the grip where you have the shortest finger (pinky) the widest part of the grip; a lot of good gun guys I know aren't into athletics and sports -therefore can I offer something from my years of baseball/softball, martial arts (num chuks), wrestling, tennis (played since age 4), traditional archery (recurves and longbows), cane and staff making, as well as knife sheathmaking that allowed me to touch many many dozens of knife designs. Back to grip changes. From the time my hands slide onto the Glock I want the natural progression to allow as fast as secure access to a solid grip and trigger control as I can, because I am not that fast. The other cuts are to get the pistol to point flat fast in first grab secure grip. I wanted as low of bore axis as I can get in what I call the most reliable handgun ever made: the Glock 9mm. Also my RH trigger finger is crooked now, shorter too, from the injury repair, neccessitating as much LOP reduction as possible. Compound that with the fact that my wife has short fingers - it seemed a good idea to hog out that channel, and remove some material from the backstrap. I looked over the grip frame a lot before hogging material out but then just figured it is a Glock after all, and not 5-screw mint S&W Target Masterpiece, so get to cutting. Contemplation sometimes equals procrastination, etc. I hogged out that channel by eye and stopped when it seemed, more might be a bad idea, but if I go through the frame what is the real harm, its a Glock. Are there other pistols or handguns that facilitate my peculiar desires, yes but most have some drawback that makes me want to use Glock. I have started really fooling with the now discontinued Star BM and BKM (aluminum) 8-shot semi-auto. I am lucky to have access to nearly any handgun I want to try out as well as have had many of my own. I finally decided I am only going to fiddle with two self-defense handguns, Star BM/BKM and Glock 9mm. OK, I have several revolvers I am working on but am going to give them to friends if I ever get them running again. Attached are some pics of other examples:

Stippling the trigger thought was: takes a minute maybe, the rest of the gun is stippled why not. I have several spare Glock trigger set ups if it does not work. I love Glocks, cheap parts, reliable and plastic frames just ripe for carving up.

The grinding wheel makes taking off the finger humps and the trigger guard point a little faster, but a dremel will do it. Other than the dremel all you really need is the 10.00 wood burning pen. So cost is nothing. The drill press vice allows to turn the project around a little easier for access and light. To do one like the aforementioned takes about 1hr 30 minutes from the time I clear the pistol, remove the slide and magazine. Go in circular random patterns, not linear. Except for punching a hole (which I have not done in over 30 pistols using this technique) you can fix most oops situations with the woodburning pen. It ain't rocket science. Probably the most ergonomic thing to do is radius the edge of the trigger guard where it meets the grip to alleviate the "Glock callus" on the 2nd finger knuckle. Some people like just having the finger humps knocked off and that space stippled. The one interesting thing to note is that the more of the backstrap that is shaved along with the further up you cut where the trigger guard meets the grip, the flatter the Glock will point. I have one, see my Avatar, that is about as far as you can go and still have confidence the frame will hold together. I don't do those for other people. Why do it? Why not? The gun still works, feels better in the hand and costs little to do but a bit of time. I taught one guy how to do it and he stippled his Remington 700 Scout Rifle - that was a project! http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab181/graycrait/Grindingwheels.jpg