graycrait

probably getting ready for a rush on CM9's

If you like to try out different things at the range you might also try a Wolf Extra Power trigger spring. I've tried out lots of Glock aftermarket stuff: Match grade slide locks, aftermarket barrels, aftermarket slides, frames, trigger bars, connectors, guide rods, etc. About all I might fool with now that isn't stock is ISMI springs for certain things and Wolf Springs for others. I've come to the conclusion that the Glock is pretty much is what it is, a fine combat or personal defense pistol. It ain't a Sig P210. Having said that I still can't shoot up to the potential of my 17L or any of my Glocks for that matter. Still, on occasion, I like to shoot a centerfire handgun that has a more precise trigger.

depending on how light you want to go, I've had both M&P and Glocks. The M&P Pro has a nice trigger but I think it is a little more "fiddley" than the Glock. I've had Glock triggers down to 1.75lbs (stupid) and on up to 11. For me 5-4.5 is about right these days after my trigger finger surgery.

Noooooooo!!! Don't burn the pearl grips, fake or no.

The $0.25 Trigger Job will work. I quit using the 3.5lb connectors in everything but my 17L and the triggers usuallly will come in at about 4.5lbs using the linked info and stock parts. However, I do have one friend who really likes the NY1 connector and shoots well with it. So hang on to it if that is what you have and play around with it and a stock trigger spring. The $0.25 Glock trigger job I hang on to Glock parts and even order them from time to time. My Glock parts box is pictured followed by some Glock tools. For a complete Glock tear down you need the punch (any 3/32 punch will do) a needle nose pliers to pull the mag release spring if you ever need to, and a Glock front sight nut driver if you ever need to put in a sight that has the nut on it. It helps to have a small screwdriver to pop the mag release spring out of its containment slot. As far as tools go I use from Left to Right: The knife with punch I ground out of the phillips head screwdriver and the needle oil applicator the most. I occasionally use the brass Glock tool for its front sight nut driver that resides under the punch tip if you screw the punch tip out. I sometimes use the screw driver and needle nose to remove mag catch spring/wire and almost never use the tools to the far right.

I second the motion to do it yourself using the Jerry Miculek dvd, "Trigger Job." For what a decent S&W sideplate screwdriver, decent stone and the DVD costs you can do a hundred S&W trigger jobs. It ain't rocket science and doesn't take much time or equipment.

Great looking pistol, too pretty to shoot! I had a .38 Super 1911 a few years ago, great shooting gun. I stuck a 9mm barrel in it and using the same mags and recoil setup it worked pretty good. I was always going to do more with it but someone talked me out of it. I'll be waiting for your updates in the gunsmithing section. Again, great effort. Craig

gunrunner32 helped me out with my pair of recently acquired "very low" priced steel pistols. Pic of one was posted earlier on this forum as Momma's New Gun. Here are the pair in their before and after pictures. Some chrome was flaking off the Star and it had someone's engraving gun nonesense on the chrome too. The 1911 was a solid shooting parts build that my wife now calls "reptilian" looking after gunrunner32's clean up and treatment. I do like that pitting but on the flip side of that slide it is nearly like new for a 69 yr old Colt slide, bushing and barrel. Of course the Star retains all interior chrome and about 95% of exterior chrome under the finish.

Today I saw an ad on another website for a 1966 Browning T-Bolt and here is what it said that set alarms off in my head: 1 ( smaller than a dime) small spot of surface rust between barrel and stock. I would love to see what that barrelled action looks like without the stock, maybe it is great and then it might not be. I know some of you also know about Browning Saltwood problems of the mid-60's, but many do not. For those that don't here is a primer. A saltwood discussion: Browning Saltwood questions - TheFiringLine Forums Salt wood resulted from a process used on Browning's to speed up the curing time of wood...the salt would draw out the moisture and speed up the drying process, unfortunately the salt residue remained in the wood grain and caused metal corrosion where the metal and wood made contact. This was not a Browning problem, but a supplier problem. About 1965, a large wood supplier sent wood not only to Browning for FN's use but also to Bishop, Fajen, Winchester, Ruger and to the US Military for M-14 stocks. This company was drying their walnut using granulated salt, by covering the wood with salt and placing it in quonset huts. The wood dried so quickly that the workers said they could actually see a steady drip of moisture coming from the wood. The wood was already cut into the appropriate size planks and no one thought that any salt residue would remain on or in the wood after final shaping, sanding, and finshing.The US Government stopped using walnut for the M-14 rifles and went to other types of wood because properly cured wood was so scarce at the time. In Browning's case, the problem first showed up starting in 1966 and ends on their guns about 1973. Superposes and T-Bolts made between 1967-1973 should be looked at; Safari, Medallion or Olympian made between 1967-1976; and any A5's 2,000,000 edition Commemorative's should be looked at. Inspect any place the metal touches the wood. Take out the butt plate screws and look them over carefully. If you find no rust, the gun is probably OK. Sometimes you can test the wood with silver nitrate. Place a drop or two on a hidden spot on the wood, if it bubbles you have a problem (From "Browning Sporting Arms of Distinction" by Matt Eastman) Browning procrastinated in signing the wood contract in Europe because there was a price spike. They thought it was a ploy and put off the purchase knowing there was plenty of cheap California wood available if needed. By the time the European wood deal fell through the California wood was gone. The only figured wood available was planks bought in California but sent to South America for furniture. Browning was trapped and had to take it. This is where the salt curing was being done but Browning missed it being a problem. They then tried to sell some of these to TRW for M-14 stocks but Claro walnut failed the physical test and was never used. Bishop, Fajen, the Warsaw Missouri pact, bought some and sold it in semi-inlets. Browning nearly went broke from the fiasco. A serious tax problem about the same time almost put them under and as a result they lost the FN connection and were forced to Japan and Portugal for guns and parts. That's why round knob, long-tang, (RKLT) Browning's are more desirable. If a Browning has French walnut stocks it can not be salt wood. All Claro, especially the higher grades, is suspect.

This was one I had for a time. I never did like the forward mounted fixed rear sight that was more akin to a SKS sight than anything else I could think of so I cut the mount off. Unfortunately if you remove the entire rear sight mount you will lose the stock attachment point so be careful and think about it before you do it. Initially I had replaced the rear notch in the stock sight with an aperture kit that gave three different size aperture replacements which fit in the stock rear sight notch from J&P: https://www.jnpgunsprings.com/product_info.php?products_id=148&osCsid=fwquijrmd Then I got the Tech Sights Tech-SIGHTS Precision Shooting Accessories which put the rear aperture where I liked it. The Tech Sights give a more or less AR-like sight picture, but it worked well enough. I had an Eric Brooks trigger kit in it with about a 2lb trigger. Yo Dave is now reported the place to get similar trigger kits: Yodave Products - Home I had tried several scopes on the UL but scopes on that rifle just don't make sense in conjunction with the Euro style stock and ruin the lines I think. I had had a FS 452 prior to UL.

It was Cerakote and gunrunner32 did have to clean up places where the chrome had come off and where some previous owner etchings had taken place. How much media blasting he did over the whole chrome slide and frame I don't know.

gunrunner32 helped me out in rejuvinating one of my Star BM 9mms. My wife now says it is hers - wheeewww, finally a gun she wants to shoot, fits her hand, is easy to shoot well (all steel), can carry cocked and locked, is reliable and is oh so sexy. Fully chrome lined slide and frame so both are able to go the distance. With my spare firing pins, springs and other small parts it should last a lifetime and not be a real booger to keep clean. I suppose a chrome barrel and extractor would be a nice touch. Thanks gunrunner32 for your expertise in refinishing this chunk of steel.

Maybe this is an alternative to the new Sig and LC9: http://www.kahr.com/PDF/CM9093.pdf

SavageSig, That is my original prototype grip reduction job. I like the HKP7 but can't shoot it well due to a hand repair job. I like low bore axis and fast flat pointing, as well as grips that replicate all my past and current fascination with hand tools, sticks, clubs, bows, etc. I filled the grip void with acraglas then ground the backstrap off and cut up into the area where the trigger guard and grip meet and some up under the tang to get the flattest fastest point with the lowest possible bore axis. It works but doesn't garner much admiration and was too much work to replicate for the fun. The bottom left G17 is cutoff at G19 lenght and has some of the same work. It is a fast flat pointing G17. Craig

I walked in TN Gun Country tonight on the way to Wal Mart and they had a Glock 26 for 350.00, a Ruger Security Six for 250.00 and a 4" S&W 586 for 250.00. Dave had to hand me a paper bag to breath in knowing I have a Failzero G19 on order. They had more used guns and some other Glocks in .40 but I can't believe that the 1st Gen G17 is still there for 300.00.

What type of finish is that? I like that Blue Titanium. I have a .22 pistol I need to refinish. Did you bead blast the old finish off? Thanks, Craig in Clarksville

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Will Carry, here is my latest MKIII 22/45. It ain't pretty but it is a shooter. See lower right hand gun. I sold the other two Rugers to friends.

Will Carry, I wish you were closer because the Ruger MK series is one of my favorites to work on. I put components in these guns for my friends on occasion. And I really enjoy seeing the MK series with good triggers. I don't know why Ruger just doesn't put a nice trigger on them. I realize price point and economies of scale, but this series of guns deserves a good trigger as they are a really good shooter.

Just back up everything and do what this guy shows you to do? Gun Talk Online

I don't like Glock 9mms!!!!

The problem with removing the humps without stippling is that you are dealing with an abrasive to remove plastic, there will be striations and those areas will be unsightly. I have tried all sorts of things to make the plastic smooth once I have taken material off with a grinder or sanding barrel. None of them worked very well Striations wouldn't bother me but then... I suppose you could "shave" the humps off but I have never tried, although I have a leather working tool that might work for that. You could stipple just the area where you remove the humps. The best method would likely be take a grinding wheel and grind off the humps. Then take a dremel and sanding barrel and dress up the hump areas as much as possible. Next use use one of those 3M scratch pad-like dremel wheels to smooth up the area. Very light pressure with that pad or it will melt and smear the plastic - why would I know that? You can then take some 4-600 grit sandpaper on your finger or wrapped around a popsicle stick and smooth the area. Heck, you could do the whole job with a popsicle stick and varying grits of sandpaper. Grinder is faster. Drill press vice is also a pretty enexpensive tool useful in this process. I pad the jaws when I work on other people's Glocks. I still think an 8" 3/8" wide grinding wheel would be ideal for efficeintly grinding off the humps in a manner where you can steady the grind without worrying overly much about damaging any other surface area of the plastic frame. I don't have a wheel that size so can't confirm that. It is sort of a pain to grind off enough material to take the humps and stock Glock stippling off the front strap and really doesn't give you anything - I know. However taking off some of the backstrap stippling and cutting up in the tang a bit can give the shooter with shorter, damaged or weak fingers a bit better hold. Taking off the backstrap stippling is best done with a Dremel with the fatter sanding barrel.

I sent pics to the owner in Ft Bragg and he said he was happy. That particular process takes about an hour with no breaks, maybe 75 minutes because you want to look over the whole job after you are finished with a good light at all angles to make sure you don't have gaps in the stippling. The key is grinding off the finger humps without damaging the stock Glock stipple. I need to find a 6 or 8" 3/8" grinding wheel. I have a 1/2 and it works well enough but narrower would be better. Every month of two some GI or LEO asks me to do this to their personal Glock. I don't like to use a dremel to take the humps off because they can slip and even with a longer shaft barrel sander the Dremel and chuck can get in the way. $10.00 wood burning pen from Walmart and some time is all it takes otherwise. Best to use an outward circular pattern, moving the "circle" laterally so you overlap. Don't try and make this lines because it will look like doo doo. Once done any place that offends the senses feel-wise you can hit with some fine grain sandpaper. You can vary the harshness also with different heads or longer "press" time with the tip on the plastic. I have developed a sort of generic feel that lets me move fairly quickly. Unless you poke a hole clear through you can pretty much redo anything that doesn't look as good as you want it. And if over time the grip gets a little smooth in places you can hit it again. This is a plastic framed Glock, a shooter's gun, not some 5-screw S&W deep blued Target Masterpiece. Some plastics don't work as well as others. I did a friend's Sig grip panels one time and they turned out well. Another friend did the whole stock, except for cheek weld, of a synthetic Remington 700 stock after I showed him how.

I ran some ammo through the 550 yesterday: Shorts, subsonic 40 grains, HV JHPs, etc. It didn't like the 60grain subsonic Aguillas but it ate everything else.

Odd, Tuesday I got a call from a Special Forces soldier from FT Bragg telling me his buddy was coming to FT Campbell for a wedding and wondered if I would alter his Glock grip like one he had seen another fella had here in Clarksville. Once upon a time I had the privelege and fun living and working with SF soldiers. Anyway, he just wanted me to reduce finger humps and stipple in smooth areas without going crazy like I do on my Glocks. You be the judge: