graycrait

i'll take some pics on Monday if all goes well.

Interesting experiment. I misappropriated 6 of my wife's thick rubbery hair bands. The barrel is 28.5" Urban Rifle Supply in a Ruger 1022 receiver, Kidd bolt, Boyds stock with Rimfire Technologies bedding system, Japan vintage Tasco 8.5-32-44 AO Target Dot, DNZ one-piece scope rings, trigger by Plinker4life. Barrels, regardless of how thick, oscillate 360 degrees when the bullet is fired through it. By moving the rubber bands over the length of the barrel changes can be made in the oscillation - that is theory. I wonder if it would improve centerfire benchrest rifles? I've used rubber o-rings and rubber castration rings, but these hair bands seem to work more dramatically. I was shooting some slightly larger than one hole groups with the bands as you see them, I moved 2 up within 1" of the end of the barrel and the groups was still tight but lower. The barrel is supported in front of the receiver and has a closed cell foam barrel pressure pad 1" behind the end of the stock.

Get 'em now while you can  She's a comin'   https://electionbettingodds.com/

Have you tried loading one round or so less than capacity and see how it feeds?     http://forums.gunsandammo.com/showthread.php?2159-22-Hornet-magazine

Found a couple of places but it looks like the smart money is having it milled for a Doctor or Leupold as they aren't as wide.  Just looking at the possibilities.  Thanks for the suggestions.

Other than Armscor .22wmr is anyone seeing CCI or other reliable .22wmr ammo readily available on the shelves of gun shops?  I got rid of the 5 or 6 .22WMRs  I had because I could whack anything that needed whacking with either a .22lr or a .223/5.56 and found the .22WMR didn't really provide a viable cross over. Full disclosure: I do still have an older style (20ft ejection) H&R .22 Hornet, shells, cases, powder and primers, along with a nifty lot of factory .22 Hornet ammo.   But still, where can you find a reliable supply of non-Armscor .22WMR ammo for a decent price?

Prior to the last election I confiscated most of a case of Thunderbolts from an old friend of mine who kept having me try and "fix" his semi auto .22.  Prior to the confiscation I took apart his Kimber barrelled 10/22 at least twice to try and figure out what was going on with it.  This rifle had been custom made when he was living out west.  I couldn't find a thing wrong, but changed out the extractor and recoil spring just in case.  Then he calls me again.  When I get to his place I ask him to see the ammo he is shooting as I hadn't had any issues with it when I shot it with whatever I had in my ammo box.  He showed me his "stash" of Thunderbolts, which I immediately confiscated and gave him 3 or 4 bricks of CCI ammo.  I stored his Thunderbolts in my garage, trying to come up with something to do with them, but forgot about them.  2012 rolls around the shelves are picked clean again by resellers and hoarders.  I load up those Thunderbolts and drive out to his place and stick them on his shelf with a shrug.  Something is maybe better than nothing, but in the case of Thunderbolts out of a semi auto .22 I think pulling out the 12 gauge or 30.06 would be money better spent.    

I'm not sure  .22WMR is a big enough leap to matter much in short barrels over the .22LR.    http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/22.html   http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/22mag.html

I have a Springfield Loaded .45 slide sitting around doing nothing.  After seeing the RMR Glocks on M&Ps in the "Handgun forum" I was thinking, I don't have 5-600 for the RMR now, but maybe later. Anyone used someone they recommend who could mill a slide for a RMR and cowitness backup iron sights? 

Hey! If you have a Python now hold on to it.  Imagine the prices if Hillary gets elected.  

Seems to me that there must be a dozen pistols that would do the job (minus 300+ pages of requirements) these days.   They either need to realistically  get on with it or just drop it and stay with what they have until there is some watershed development in sidearms.  First time I shot an FN 5.7 I said "wait a minute....even the safety seemed "right" for standard issue Joes and Joelenes."   But I never had the chance to tear one down and see logistic issues besides the ammo issue itself.     If a good positive thumb safety is a definite requirement my brain is having a hard time coming up with a pistol that would meet modularity requirements and have a positive clicking conventional safety.  I suppose something Sig has meets the mail as close as anything.  M&P has a mushy safety that is "off" for some reason for me including disassembly of the safety itself and that tiny spring in the mechanism.  Then there is Glock with no thumb safety except for that Comminoli aftermarket which I installed on several Glocks but didn't think that safety quite measured up to the rest of the pistol.  The Ruger SR series has a decent thumb safety but did I see Ruger isn't interested in the contract?  I just don't see a return to the 1911 in any caliber. The last one I carried in the military would turn orange if it was cloudy out, but would never jam because it was so loose and rattled so much you could have used it as tambourine in a rock band.  I'm sure modern metallurgy and finishes would prevent both those issues right?  One thing about some of the modern plastic guns is that it is pretty easy to cannibalize one to make another work with about 99.9% certainty if necessary.  No fitting of parts.   Hard call, I'll wait to see the end result. Someone wake me up when the choice is made.  

Sounds like a winner.  I think it is great concept on a proven design/action.  I didn't think there would be another reasonably priced .22 pistol that would interest me after I got my Nelson Custom .22LR 1911 conversion, but this one grabs my interest.

I would only shoot Thunderbolt in a manual action .22 and then I would prefer to shoot them using someone else's firearm.   After having had quite a few MK series Rugers I would agree that right out of the box many could use some help, especially MKIIIs with all that safety gear added. Either that or shoot a thousand rounds through it and then see how it works.    After all - the MK series is a high volume mass produced pistol.  But I think the MK Series has the greatest potential of any 300.00 .22 to shoot nearly if not as well as any 900.00 .22 if a couple of steps are taken.  Speaking of 900.00 .22 pistols I bet even a NIB S&W 41 doesn't like Thunderbolts...    The first thing I would do to a NIB MKIII is take a piece of 2000 grit sandpaper (easily found at Walmart in the car body section) and give the bolt a good going over. Then I would rub the interior of the receiver with that piece of sandpaper.  If you are OCD then finish with Flitz or even Semichrome, etc.  Check the ramp and leading edge of the chamber for a burr or ledge, carefully knock it down if found.  Polish the ramp and lightly inside the chamber.  Replace the extractor as posted earlier.  Extractor http://www.rimfiresp...tegory_Code=VC2   The next thing I would do is remove the Loaded Chamber Indicator (if it were my pistol)  I would either leave the space open or go online and buy an LCI blank that fills the space.  Loaded Chamber Indicator replacement https://www.tandemkr...2245-_p_16.html   And to make the MK III a wow! pistol I would do the following:      Trigger https://www.tandemkr...ROSS_p_197.html 0r http://www.rimfiresp...tegory_Code=VC2   Ruger MK II bushing to replace the mag disconnect safety apparatus http://www.rimfiresp...tegory_Code=VC2 or this https://www.tandemkr...istols_p_9.html   Volquartsen Sear http://www.rimfiresp...tegory_Code=VC2   Hogue Rubber Sleeve - cut the back off and glue this to the grip or use as seen but you will need to slip off to disassemble. This applies to the 22/45 that does not have removable grip panels. http://www.midwayusa...p-sleeve-rubber   Then make something like this: http://www.guntalk-o...opic.php?t=1175   And if the Ruger MK series is found to be too much of a PIA to dis and reassemble trade it in for a Buckmark or S&W 22 or whatever the Smith is called these days.  Both are serviceable and reliable pistols. I don't think either has the potential as the Ruger MK series to go well beyond what comes in the box with a little attention.  

http://smith-wessonforum.com/

Or you could go whacky like I did a few years ago.

https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=15201

I was enamored with night sights for quite a while.  Not so much anymore as my lifestyle pretty much eliminates me from doing aimed pistol fire at night.  I do have a light/laser on my shotgun  One time  I even took off both front and rear sights from one of my Glocks to practice fast 15ft and closer shooting being forced not to use sights.  I  found I wasn't using sights anyway at those distances at speed.  I do like fine fiber optic sights for dinking around the range though.   One of my friends said that using a pistol light along with night sights is good for clearing warehouses and such when you don't have time to grab your AR or shotgun.  I haven't even been close to a situation like that in 25 yrs.  I did try just about every night sight there was at one time because of my Mr. MaGoo vision and found that at speed at close range they weren't much help.  Kind of like fiddle farting around with a laser on a handgun.  I figure they will be putting pennies over my eyes before I get the laser or night sights lined up to ward off an attack.

I just Googled 1911 frames texas and came up with this:  http://www.jemguns.com/index.html

I was reading some threads on other forums and it appears that SA's 1911 slides and frames are now forged in the US.  Who makes them appears to be a "state" secret.  https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=346825

If they let you keep the stock just apply the glue as is and let it wick itself through as much of the crack it will migrate.  This stuff is thin so will move on its own in several seconds. I was shocked when I first applied it.  If you get a 2oz bottle that should last you for the next decade. 

Most gun sites seem to enforce "caveat emptor," so who should care if the guy can make 450-500 profit? Ask yourself what a used LCP is worth - maybe 175.00, used 99.00 veridian for LCP - maybe 75.00, and the "used" upgrades to triggers and extra mags - OK, lets be generous - 100.00.  So why not ask 800.00 for a 350.00 pistol package?  I've upgraded two LCPs with aftermarket innards in an attempt to make them "that" easily concealed carry pistol.  I am happy to NOT have either one any longer.  Darn it, I took a loss on both, but that is how I roll.

The one thing I like Froglube for is the front of a .22bolt and the breech face.  That coconut oil is the bees knees for preventing a crusty build up that is easily wiped out. I like red tranny fluid mixed with CLP for revolvers.   And of course I also have, along with Frog Lube, MP Pro 7, Ballistol, Lube Guard, Breakfree CLP (1/2 gallon), Mobile 1, Kroil, Inox, Lubriplate, Tetra gun grease, some crazy powdered stuff that stains and makes a mess, Sentry something or other, Rem Oil, etc, etc.   I think it was P.T. Barnum who may have said, "There is a sucker born every day." 

Sidewinder,   A fella sent me his beloved 60 yr old walnut stock that had dropped off a wall rack and had 3 cracks in the wrist.  Am I gunstock repairman, no, just a guy who likes to figure things out, plus he was a brother of an old Army buddy of mine.  I made a couple of reversible mistakes and then found the ultra thin Bob Smith super glue.   That Bob Smith ultra thin will migrate through a hairline crack. It works fast too so get ready when you spread some along the crack to clamp it or strap it or squeeze it. You can wait a couple of seconds but not too long. If you can separate the crack even a little bit it would help the glue to migrate but it is so thin it will penetrate likely enough.  Some knife makers use it to penetrate wood grain to make their own "stabilized" wood handles.     Concentrate on one crack at a time.  If you get some or a bunch on the stock be ready to wipe it off and you will need to sand the excess glue off, maybe hit with a bit a stain and put a couple of coats of Tru Oil on the stock to get an even finish.  If you feel it is necessary then completely strip the stock before you do any of this so that you can refinish it completely, evenly.   That ultra thin comes with a pointed tip but that stuff is thinner than water and tends to run so you might want to plan on a complete strip, repair and refinish job.   I had this cheap ugly old walnut wood stock that was 70 yrs old with a rotten spot and a big wide deep divit and was able to build up those spots with this glue in fairly fast order by just sanding over the spot, adding glue, wipe off, let dry in seconds then sand, glue and wipeoff over and over.  It doesn't look NIB or ever close but those spots are level and stabilized for another 70yrs or more. It took me probably an hour of work time to strip it, fix the holes and give it a quicky refinish job.  This was for my single shot '46/'47 Savage 3D 24" barrel backyard CB Long shooting quiet suburban varmint gun.  Got it for a 100 bucks, still a hundred buck rifle, but at least the stock is clean.  I had to clean a mudd dauber nest out between the trigger guard and stock.  The fella I got it from must have had it in the barn for a long time.

an oldy but good read:  http://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

When you get your new stock and if they say, "Keep the old one," order the appropriate Bob Smith product to repair the old one.   http://www.bsi-inc.com/hobby/hobby.html