graycrait

Here is what I understand about the 1911 .22 conversion game: 1. Kimber makes their own after they used to use a rebranded Ceiner some years ago. 2. Wilson Combat uses a rebranded Marvel Precision Unit 2, which should not be confused with Nighthawks new conversion developed by Bob Marvel, who no longer works for Marvel Precision. Allegedly the new Nighthawk conversion should be in the same accuracy league as the Marvel Precision Unit 1, which has long been considered the leader in 1911 .22 conversion accuracy. Everytime I think about a 1911 .22 I get the I wants, then I think: can they be any more accurate or reliable than the 7 Ruger or S&W .22 pistols I already have?

If I were looking for a .22LR 1911 I would get this upper and slap it on my best triggered 1911: 22 Conversion Units Nighthawk Tactical

although not so significant unless the barrel is at least carbine length: BBTI - 9mm Luger

the fella that used the hockey puck had it velcroed to his shoulder. I'm wondering why with a 9mm would a pad even be necessary?

on the AR 9mm the buffer tube acts as sort of a stock. One guy I know dished out a hocky puck, put Velrco on the back and used it as sort of a shooting pad. I'm not sure if one even needs padding if you placed the tube in your shoulder socket. With a 10.5" barrel it seems more a hybrid SBR/pistol with the legal status of a pistol. Rock River Arms: RRA LAR-9 Pistols / 9mm

In my never ending quest for the weird and whacky a fella said he would make me a good deal on a 9mm RRA AR pistol. I was wondering if any other forum members had such a beast and might give me pointers as to what makes sense and what doesn't as far as optics or other tinker toy AR pistol "doo dads." I think I am going to get it but there isn't any hurry. Craig in Clarksville

camp, I am sorry to read that the DB9 has rail issues. This gun was sort of high on my wish list. Now I will have to wait and while away the time trying to find out what is allegedly wrong with my NTM Gen 4 Glock 19 2-part recoil rod, if anything. A fella gave me this one in lieu of cash owed. I am always a sucker for a functional Glock 9mm. But the DB9 reminds me of a little itty bitty Glock in many ways. However, it needs to be reliable. Craig

Alternative or pseudo scout rifles I have tinkered with (note - don't know why but the photo attachment icon wouldn't let me just attach the photo: msg was "invalid url". This is the same way I have been posting pics for some time.) http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab181/graycrait/2rifles.jpg http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab181/graycrait/MarlinScoutblack.jpg http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab181/graycrait/Rem700223Scout-1.jpg

More on Diamondback 9mm Pat's Product Review: Diamondback .380 ACP Pistol - SurvivalBlog.com YouTube - ‪Diamondback Firearms - DB9 - 6.21.11‬‏

Mouse Guns and Gear: Diamondback DB9 Update & Ballistics Test DiamondbackTalk.com » View topic - DB9 Reviews

DMark, It looks like you are a serious collector. I hope you have some "beaters" to carry and take to the range. Craig

I have only had 10 1911s and the one I have now is for recreation only. I have shot and have access to many 1911s, the same as many forum members do. I would pass on Kimber and SA Champions in 4". I would never go less than 4.25" and tend to think 5" is the way to go in 1911s, having had a couple of 4" 1911s and shot some "balky" less than 4" 1911s. JMB designed the 1911 as a 5" gun and time has held that if everything is sprung right a 4.25" works pretty well, but a well made 5" 1911 is generally pretty reliable. In your price range I would hold for a Colt. SA's are essentially Brazilian made guns, which is not a bad thing but it is a "thing." A serious 1911 shooter friend of mine who is a FED LEO 1911 carrier tells me to pass on Kimber, which his and others advice I follow to some extent. Look at the Series 70 and XSEs. Colt Pistols

After gunrunner32 did my 1st handgun he has done 7 more and a shotgun. Plus just the conversation with a US Army active duty SF weapons/intell "guy" who has been there and done that, as well as a fella who can take any weird gun I have given him apart and put it back together again by himself makes me keep coming back again and again. I don't trust many guys beyond casual conversation, but as an old axiom suggests, gunrunner32 is a fella you can "ride the river with" and want to because he would have your back for sure.

TNWNGR, The CCF steel frame makes the Glock 34 weigh 52.8oz unloaded if memory serves. It also caused frame battering on aftermarket slides, not so much with stock Glock. The CCF locking block pretty much requires the use of a stock Glock barrel unless you mill the CCF locking block. I have not heard anything good about the CCF aluminum frame. I know of no one personally who has used the new Lone Wolf Timberwolf frame, although Lone Wolf is working on a 19/23 sized Timberwolf frame now. Craig

Depends on where she is in shooting but she could learn very well on a 3" Ruger SP101 .357 shooting .38 spl. This gives enough weight to assist with felt recoil. If she can handle it I think the finger groove handled Ruger LCR in .38 is a great shooting light weight revolver. A Kahr CW9 in semi auto would fit her more than likely and give enough grip length to hold on to the snappy 9mm in light pistol. If higher capacity is needed then something Glock 19 size in 9mm, or SR9C, XD or M&P.

wjh2657 You have a gorgeous piece of machinery and much more useful than mine in its snubbie version. However, I can "abuse" mine, while yours deserves good care. Craig

The guy who owns the 23C had one of those belt clips on the gun. I tried one once upon a time but don't like the idea of a Glock out of a stiff holster with the typeo of trigger it has. The only time I used lighter than stock recoil springs is when I had a multiported 17L barrel. Now that I don't use a ported barrel I use stock weight springs. I bought some crazy 14.00 thumb rest gizmo and got it today, not the biggest waste of Glock money I have spent, but a totally worthless thing. I also installed a titanium safety plunger but feel no discernable difference from my polished stock plunger. Biggest waste of Glock money so far: 1. CCF steel raceframe 2. J-point sight 3. Ported 17L barrel 4. Aftermarket G34 slide 5. Comonolli thumb safety and jig As you can see in just these 5 items I could easily have had a couple of decent whole Glock pistols. Live and learn. I do think I need a threaded 17L barrel and a Lone Wolf standard muzzle break:)

I took the trigger shoe off and tossed it into the parts box a couple of days ago.

Although I have another thread that has this revolver in it as "The Perfect Pair" along with a G19, I have to tell you about this S&W 10-6. First off this is not a factory nickel job, but thank the gun gods for whoever had this thing nickeled. Factory S&W nickel jobs normally have a "N" stamped on the cylinder near the extractor star and/or on the frame's grip. This one does not. The nickel is cloudy in spots but it is firmly attached to gun inside and out. Although not perfect this S&W is a perfectly and precise actioning S&W k-frame and I have had 15 or so over the years, not counting J & N frames. I bought this after seeing it for sale on this forum a few weeks ago, having had it in my hands by the original Clarksville owner some months ago, but dismissing it in my earlier haste. When I took the side plate off and looked at this gun's innards I knew I had a good one once I actioned it again. Nearly new, yet so smooth and crisp in action throughout. I really enjoy shooting a DA revolver in DA only, as "god" and Ed McGivern intended. This one is extraordinary. On the other hand in single action it is simply sublime. If you are a handgun enthusiast and have not practiced shooting a DA revolver in DA only I suggest you do so. Yes, continuous capacity in a revolver is limited vs the pistol but a good shooting DA revolver shot in DA can be more accurate than some of the best pistols when shot at self defense speeds. I am a lucky man. I plan to "cheese" this one up with faux pearl or ivory grips in a nice basketweave or floral pancake holster:

get this video: Trigger Job by Jerry Miculek - GunVideo.com and get busy and do it yourself. If after watching this video once, then on the second pass have the tools and follow Jerry's instructions the gun doesn't work then take it to someone who charges for excellence. Wish you were here in Clarksville, me and another guy I know enjoy going over S&Ws just for the fun of it.

After having 8 or 9 guns Cerakoted by gunrunner32 I can't imagine going anywhere else, not because I doubt the veracity of claims or excellence of work by others, gunrunner32 is convenient and priced so I can readily take a "beater" and turn it in to a "beauty" at what I consider a cost effective price.

Markwondi, Where did you find a CZ armorer? But then if an armorer can do it I'll bet there is some drunken 21 yr old on You Tube that shows how it is done. Hmmm....' Craig

Markwondi, Did you do the CZ 75B mods you mentioned yourself? I've had 5 CZs, changed the extreme recurve triggers out to a standard recurve on a couple but that was it. I've always wanted to shoot a SAO CZ 75, but haven't had the chance yet. When I had CZs I assumed that to change to SAO the gun had to go back to CZ or Angus Hobdell or that other CZ expert whose name slips my mind at the moment. Craig in Clarksville

The Cerakoting was done by a friend of mine here on the forum. Otherwise I do everything else. I sometimes mess around with 1911s and revolvers, but mostly stick with Glocks. Here is a 23C a SF soldier asked me to see if I could improve the grip without cutting off the humps. First a couple of things about Glocks. They do point differently than a 1911. I like the way the 1911 points so to that end you can do a few things to a Glock to get it to point flatter naturally without having to retrain. I like a SYA pistol to point fast and flat, like my index finger. I like a low bore axis pistol. I would use a HK P7 if I hadn't had a hand operation that crosses that pistol off my list of favorite pistols. The M&P is pretty good but hits a bone in my thumb funny so I no longer use that pistol. On the Glock as you take away material where the trigger guard meets the grip and take some off the backstrap you can bring the gun's natural point down a bit. The G19 in the previous photo is likely about as exteme as you can get without the frame falling apart, which may happen someday to that one, but hey, its a Glock. A more moderate approach to get a flat pointing Glock is to slice a G17 off to G19 length, take off a bit of the backstrap and cut up moderately into the trigger guard/grip area. The most interesting thing I have found about a Glock grip is that if you simply radius the the edge where your second finger knuckle abuts the trigger guard the gun can become much more comfortable to shoot during long sessions at the range. I've also done some crude things to a Ruger MKIII 22/45 frame and of course reworked the internals on quite a few. I look at stock gun mods as nothing different than what we see in the evolution of the 1911. If it suits you stock good, if not modify it to suit you. No big deal either way.

It can get weirder/uglier, believe me: