graycrait

I've got metal guide rods now in both KT 32's, and have modded trigger shoes for each.

Kel-Tec Index

Thanks a lot guys, now I'm on the hunt now for a SP101 in 9mm. I didn't know Ruger had made a 9mm SP101. Seems like the perfect compliment with all the 9 semi autos I have.

I believe S&W made two 9mm revolvers, one K and one J frame. both are high end collectors guns now. Taurus may still make the 905, I had two and I would recommend saving your money. Ruger made a 9mm Speed Six, great gun, I had one. Why have a Speed Six when you can a have a 9mm Glock? But the Speed Six was way cool and I had 18 moonclips for it. The Ruger Speed Six is now a fairly sought after collectors gun. Not in the same league as S&W but pretty high priced. The achilles heel of the Taurus is the flimsy moonclips.

If you want a 9mm 1911 the RIA is a fine one. I have owned two and both worked well. If you haven't had a 1911 the RIA is a good one to start with: it works, is spec'd so that it accepts most 1911 aftermarket and doesn't cost you an arm and leg.

I have had both HiPower and several 9mm 1911s, including a Dan Wesson Pointman 9. They all pale in comparison to the Sig X-Five Tactical. I would go with 9mm 1911 over HiPower unless you get a HP that has had a good trigger job.

I say go for it. You only live once. You can always get another G27 a but 3" Mdl 65LS isn't found on every corner. The K-frame S&W revolver is an "elegant sufficiency" and just plain cool in 3". Are you trading with someone you trust? If the S&W looks well cared for it probably is. These two links should help you. How the S&W revolver works Genitron.com: Basics-Interactive Illustrated Revolver Inspecting a used S&W revolver Gunsmith - How to inspect a Smith & Wesson revolver - YouTube

Thanks for the additions. I updated my original post that all 8 are now on one message.

Having had 3 RIAs and 7 or 8 other 1911s I also second the idea of getting an RIA. The RIA works and what more could you want in a combat pistol? What I have found is that 1911s, although really cool and fun to work on, are heavy, unless you get one with an alloy frame - but then is it a "real" 1911 if it weighs less than the 38oz all steel version? My most recent idea of the perfect "1911":

Let us know what it looks like in about 30,000 more rounds:)

I see a lot of Glocks, have had more than I should have had and have a small bucket full right now. I agree with the previous posters.

Another Advantage Arms 19/22 conversion kit has landed. What bothered me in the earlier trials with this conversion was its light weight. This time I have added a 3oz Taylor Freelance Seattle Slug in the grip and if need be I am going to put lead shot in a rail light to get some forward weight. The G19 AA.22LR normally weighs about 12oz. The closer I can get it to 20oz the better for me. The Ruger is one of my ongoing tinkering jobs. The trigger is about 2lbs now, had to change it after my friends called the previous setting an "imaginery" trigger pull. The 4" BB with the Millet gives the plastic framed 2245 a nice feel for plinking.

The Taurus PT22 ejects the casing just like the Beretta.

According to .22LR the 60grn subsonic Aguilla seems to be the most "effective" handgun .22lr ammo out there. (see pic comparing the 60 grain with a 40 grain .22LR) I probably have some of everything from hyper to high velocity, to match standard velocity on down to Colibra and everything in between. I have an old shooting buddy who has been experimenting with S&W 317's and then I ran across the Brass Fetcher website. I understand about barrel lengths and twist rates for .22lr stabilization. In addition my old buddy has two Beretta Bobcats, one of which I sold him. One is a newer parkerized version and the one I sold him is the blued wood gripped version. Both of these guns are marginally reliable and picky about ammo. But they are unique in one aspect vs other .22lr mouseguns in that they are tip ups. You load the barrel, then insert the mag. This requires almost no effort for arthrtic and or damaged hands. Recoil is minimal and you can fire them pretty fast on target at self defense ranges. The other day I picked up two functional but very used Taurus PT 22 clones of the Bobcat. I think I can monkey around with the pair of coiled recoil springs that control the slide through two levers that I may be able to get one or both of the PT 22s to reliably cycle 60 grain Aguilla subsonics. If that works then the PT22s may prove to be useful tools with a marginally more effective self defense close range .22lr round. I am well aware of the PT22 and its somewhat checkered reputation including a story a local county deputy told me that while he was shooting one the slide came off, whizzing by his ear, with him eerily aiming down the empty barrel of the little Taurus.

DMark, Correction made. Thanks

The subject of gunsmiths comes up every now and then. Could we create a list and then make it a sticky? People ask me every once in a while about a smith so I started my own list. I think a list could be compiled without taking potshots at smiths you have had issues with or don't like. Just make some recommendations you have had postive dealings with. Here is the format I used for some Middle Tennessee gunsmiths. If the smith has a specialty then that should be added. 1. Middle Tennessee Gunsmithing · http://www.midtngunsmthing.com · 3732 Flewellyn Rd, Springfield, TN 37172 · Phone: 615-384-5591 · Email: Brandon@midtngunsmithing.com · Hours: Tu – F: 10-6 Sa: 8-4 · Gunsmith: Brandon Ward 2. Guns and Leather, Greenbrier TN · http://gunsandleather.com · 2216 Highway 41 South, Greenbrier, TN 37073 · Phone: 615-643-4865 · gunsandleather@comcast.net · Gunsmith Hours: Th-Sa: 9-6 · Gunsmith: Jeff Walle 3. Eastside Gunshop, Nashville, TN · http://www.eastsidegunshop.com · 1048 E. Trinity Ln, Nashville, TN 37216 · Phone: 615-258-4080 · billbernstein@bellsouth.net · Gunsmith Hours: Tu & Th: 11-6 4. Complete Gun Shop · http://www.legallyarmed.com/complete.htm · 308 S. Water Ave., Gallatin, TN 37066 · Phone: 615-206-0075 · Gunsmith: Master Gunsmith Sam Hoster 5. Lebanon Gunshop · http://www.lebanongunshop.com/index.php · 102A Hartman Dr., Lebanon, TN 37087 · Phone: 615-547-9600 · Email: mail@lebanongunshop.com · Gunshop window hrs: M-F: 10-1, SA: 10-6, Gunsmith Name: Ben Schade: reputed to be a real deal shotgun expert & trap coach 6. Classic Arms · 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy Memphis TN 38016 · Phone: 901-757-4655 · Hours: Mon – Fri: 9:30-6 Sa: 9:30-5 · Gunsmith: Mason 7. Predator Custom SHop · Predator Custom Shop · 3550 Papermill Drive, Knoxville, TN 37909 · Phone: 865-521-0625 · sales@predatorcustomshop.com · Gunsmith Hours: Tu-Fr: 8-4, Sa: 10-4 · Gunsmith: Bob Howard 8. Gunslingers · 3905 Old Tasso Road, Cleveland, TN 37312 · Phone: 423-339-8987 or 423-790-2780 · Gunsmith Hours: We-Su 12-8, Call: 9am-10pm 7 days/wk · Gunsmith:

I've "tuned" up maybe 10 MKIIs and MKIII 22/45s. If it is light striking then it is the firing pin and/or FP spring. You didn't change the spring so it must be the FP. Put the stock firing pin back in and see what happens. Maybe the new FP isn't long enough for your gun? What kind of MKIII? 22/45 or standard steel frame? What type of sear spring are you using? "U" shaped or short leg/long leg?

I think "rgaper" should do online pistol reviews, pretty funny stuff.

tenifer finish is a nitrite process that increases the hardness of the steel to about 68 Rockwell. This process makes the steel, in my estimation, better than stainless. I don't take obsessive of my Glocks and the "shiney MPDC G17" has not shown an rust. Stop down at TN Gun Country between 0930 -1700 tomorrow and I will show it to you.

I have a fully polished Glock 17 slide and barrel, chroming a tenifer finished Glock slide and barrel is gilding the lily. Just polish the slide and barrel with successive grits of wet/dry paper up to 2000+ grit once you have the black finish off. The tenifer is the chemical treatment of the Glock slide and barrel itself, inside and out. The black stuff has nothing to do with the steel treatment. If you take your time and don't get aggressive the tenifer treated steel will shine like chrome yet be extremely rust resistant. Cutting the 22 grip to 23 length is not a problem either. Figure out how much you want to cut then wrap a piece of tape evenly around the grip to provided a nice line. Take your Dremel cutoff wheel and slowly whack the excess. If you leave more than you need (which is a good idea) shave the thing to fit with a large dremel sanding drum. Just don't clean up any of the fuzz and stuff with an exacto knife like tercel89 did. I personally know tercel89. It is easier and more controllable to use a dremel with a small smoother sanding wheel. I have cut a 17 to 19. I also just purchased an Austrian proof marked Gen 3 G19 that a dog got a hold of and trimmed the bottom a bit then stippled to make the handle useful and not too ugly. If you want a neat and cheap to shoot Glock 22, then you may want to get a stainless Lone Wolf 9mm conversion barrel for the 22 (save yourself some polishing time).

Having had the good fortune to shoot everything from an Anschutz Super Match to old Crackshots I think for the money it is hard to beat a Marlin. I picked up a new XT-22 with the Pro-Fire trigger for less than 200.00. I like tube fed guns so that I can cycle everything from 20grain Colibras to 60grain Aguilla SSS.

380 Auto +P Pistol & Handgun Ammunition

Of the Lorcin, Jennings and Phoenix Arms I would classify the Phoenix as clearly the best. However, I think they can all be made to shoot well enough within their limitations. The problem is Zamak, the zinc alloy that comprises the bulk of these guns. That stuff can crack over time, probably at a rate greater than steel or aluminum alloys, but at what rate I dunno. I imagine pin holes in zamak can enlarge depending or torque, etc. I carry a KelTec 32 quite often and would class the KT32 way above the guns mentioned above. I would enjoy working with a S&W Escort after all the 622, 422s and 2206s I have had. I have just never saw one available firsthand.

SIG P210 Legend 9mm fixed sight - Roco FirearmTechnology, LLC If you look at the above link's inventory you will see that they have some very nice Sig P210s for sale that are likely better for the price than 2500.00 Sig military surplus. For instance the new Sig P210 Legend is going for a bit over 2,000.00 NIB. If these things shoot better than an X-Five, well I don't know if I could tell it.

Muzzle brake? This came up in a discussion with a revolver enthusiast recently. I am also wondering if there is a device that can actually prevent this in a semi auto pistol. The conventional wisdom says "revolver." I am thinking better training or better situational awareness that doesn't put me in that proximity. However, I can see this happening and maybe a J-frame is the best insurance. I dunno, but don't think "just carry a 1911" is necessarily the answer.