graycrait

I got the .22 LCR as a training gun for my wife. She is gangbusters with her Ruger 5.5" but still has issues with recoil and sight picture with center fires. Trying to get her to concentrate more using the DAO .22 revolver. I got the .38 for her to transition with after shooting my friend's .38 LCR quite a bit. She has her choice of quite a few pistols and revolvers once she commits to getting serious about self defense carry. The most fun I have had with a .22 lately (and I currently have 23 .22s) is shooting the .22 LCR using 375fps 20 grain Colibras without ear protection. Why would anyone want a S&W 317 or the never to be seen S&W 43C for quite a bit more money? I've shot the 317 quite a bit but haven't laid hands on a 43C. I like plastic and innovation, so will personally pass on the two J-frame S&Ws in .22LR. I like S&W products, even still have a couple, but S&W needs to get their proverbial s... together.

No, but I will take a look. I may need it for my Papoose.

Reset may be the wrong word but I can shoot my S&W 49 faster than the LCRs or even my .38 SP101. However, that isn't a big deal. The trigger stroke is shorter on the S&W, but I love the long smooth DAO trigger on the LCR. I suspect the .357 LCR may be more than I want to handle if my experience with utlra light J-frame .357s is any indication. Don't need the pain, flash, noise of the .357 in that small of a package. I'm not hunting deer with the thing, just saving my butt, theoretically.

I have an LCR .22 and a LCR .38. I really like these. I am thinking about figuring out how to trade for another LCR. Has anyone heard bad stuff about these. I've shot several hundred rounds through each and the only small negative is that the reset is a bit quicker on the S&Ws.

I would recommend this trigger to anyone who has a Marlin semi auto .22. Marlin Rimfire Parts and Accessories

I received my copy of Barrett's Glock book yesterday and then received this today:

I put one on order today based on the .22LR conversion. Have little interest in the .22WMR stock model, but have a great interest in a .22LR version.

Once it has come apart a few times and has been cleaned and lubed it will begin to come apart and go together easier. In the meantime use the mallet.

I've done it roughly 10-12 times. The key issues are: 1) getting rid of the mag release - what where those guys thinking? What a stupid piece of equipment. 2) but in a MKIII you have to have something to take up the space when you toss the mag release and that is easily and cheaply done buy replacing the mag release with MKII bushing. A Canadian made Sams bushing is better but harder to get - sort of. 3) the Safety detent ball and spring can go flying (sort of) and to prevent that it is easiest to jam one of those wedge shaped pencil erasers that go over the top of a wooden pencil in that space to hold the safety lever and detent in while you futz with the sear and trigger bar. 4) the trigger bar plunger and spring can fall out and often do if you don't have the frame/receiver in a vice at a slightly downward attitude. It generally it takes me 10 minutes or so to replace the stock MKIII stuff with a: MKII bushing, VQ sear and VQ or stock MKIII hammer along with the new plunger and spring. You can also take a Dremel with felt pad or Craytex bits and polish all friction points, which takes another 10 to 15 minutes. This ain't gunsmithing. It is simple armorer's work that anyone can do if they have some patience, a flat surface to work on and good light. I tell folks that for about 55.00 worth of Volquartsen parts and 30 minutes you can take a 300.00 Ruger MKIII or II and have it shoot with any $1,000.00 .22 pistol. Why Ruger doesn't do the work to make their triggers & actions world class is beyond me, but Volquartsen and Clark must be happy that Ruger does not.

I've had at least a dozen MKI, II and IIIs. Nearly every one I replaced the trigger and sear on with Volquartsen or back in the day Marvel Precision triggers. I think the newer Volquartsen triggers are great. You can adjust over and pre travel externally without again breaking down the gun once the trigger is installed. With a little practice you can completely disassemble these in your lap. I didn't want to but the other day a Special Forces weapons sergeant wanted to see how to dismantle and reassemble one so I did it in an inconvenient place, replacing his trigger and sear at the same time. Due to the Ruger's mechanism the gun will always have a little pretravel due to the required reset distance when you replace the trigger with an adjustable one. I think the Ruger is a thousand dollar pistol you can get for around 300.00. Slap in a new sear and trigger, mount a a good red dot on it and you can shoot with nearly anyone this side of a Pardini or Benelli. The Ruger is a solid mass production pistol that with a little attention can become much more than it is out of the factory and out of the factory isn't bad. Here are some good links: Gun Talk Online www.1bad69.com

Like other posters said, let her pick the gun. Not only does the gun have to "fit" her hand the length of pull has to be correct so that she doesn't "twist" the gun in her hand to get her finger pad on the trigger. She also has to feel comfortable with the magazine as well as other controls. Lastly, if she can't easily rack the slide, ...well you get the point.

-3rd Gen Glock 17 (9mm) need the grip length for the right fit in the prosthetic to rack the slide "conventionally" as well as easily allows use of uncaptured guide rod with single recoil spring -Brass Stacker slide pull (ring type) -Uncaptured guide rod with reduced strength Ismi springs then can allow "tuning" the recoil spring to the lowest practical level -360 degree grip stippling for friction when the Glock is placed in the synthetic coated prosthetic -Probably should fix a half of a magazine to a board to provide a workstand that could be used to disassemble the slide from frame for cleaning and maintenance -Use a mag loader to assist loading mags

I am really liking the Ruger LCR .22LR. I may get another. Having shot the SP101 .22LR, owned a pre Mdl 17 S&W and shot 617 and 317s, H&R Sportsman , I think the Ruger makes the most sense outside of the target arena. The DW is a work in progress.

Went to Guns and Leather briefly today to test handguns that are new to me or relatively new to me: SP101 .38spl, S&W 49 .38spl, Dan Wesson .357/.38, Ruger LCR .22lr and Taurus PLY 22. For .38 Spl ammo I used 158 grain LRN Magtech and a few TC (Tennessee Cartridge) 158 SWC. The Magtechs had a lot more flash than the TC. The DW had little felt recoil but I got the impression that the flash hider spread the flash outwards to the sides more than the same ammo ran though the S&W 49 or the SP101. All three 38 revolvers were 100% in ignition and extraction. I would have a hard time deciding which one to pick up first to save my butt, althou the DW comes up to the eye the easiest. Point and shoot makes little difference. I would like to shoot some .357s through the DW just for the fun of it and maybe some +P .38s. The Ruger LCR .22LR fired 7 different types of .22LR including Aguila 60 grain subsonics and Aguila 20 grain Colibras. I also fired 40 grain hyper velocity and 30 grain hyper velocity, including some CCI Velocitors. I shot standard velocity through it also. All rounds fired. Ejection was a bit stiff on several cylinder loads. I may Flitz the cylinders to see if that helps. The PLY 22 had one Failure to Feed with Remington Goldens but ran well with CCI Mini Mags. I think my wife is really going to like the Ruger LCR .22. Heck, she might like them all and that would be a good thing. She has not fired any of these guns. If it gets her to shoot more she can call them all hers. I'm still pretty partial to my Glocks.

Frogube on some things, red tranny oil on revolvers, CLP on the Glocks, Lubriplate grease on slides and rails of some steel on steel guns.

I hope the SR22 is not anothe Umarex product.`

I tried the H&K P7. That is a way cool pistol. I ended up trading mine when I found that without very good index finger control and separation from the rest of the hand it is a hard pistol to shoot. What I did was grind a Glock 19 frame to the point where it lays almost as low as a HKP7, to facilitate point shooting, but in a shorter reset trigger and then cut the access points to the trigger for shortened bent index finger or a straight off-hand trigger finger. The 360 degree stippling allows for a firm grip especially when "grabbing and go."

Did you happen to check it to see how it handled one-handed weak-hand? I've fiddled with but not shot the Solo, it felt nice. My litmus test for pocket guns is one-handed weak-hand shooting from a "grab and go." My Diamondback DB9 is marginal that way, as is the PF9 in my estimation. The Solo's ergonomics left me with an impression that it may very well shoot comparatively easily one-handed weak-hand.

An injury left me learning to shoot left-handed one-handed while I was recovering. Although never fully recovered in my right hand, during the recovery period I started experimenting with various firearms and techniques. I also look at handguns in a whole new light and must personally insist that any defensive handgun must be shot quickly with defensive accuracy one-handed either hand. A friend of mine got seriously wounded in Iraq and he sponsors an annual Wounded Warriors shoot. I am working on one of his Glocks right now. He lost a leg and the ends of several fingers. Another friend of mine is 86+ yrs old, WWII Marine. He is arthritic in every joint in his body. We do a lot of experimenting with various defensive pistols. My wife has basal thumb arthritis, plus short fingers, but she likes to shoot handguns, so we have to compromise, modify, adapt, etc. This is a very handy aftermarket device, as are several aftermarket triggers. Slide Pull Here is another Glock option: GLOCK SLIDE RACKER - Brownells Also, my "Wounded Warrior" friend has worked through his own "handicaps" and has helped many others. I would suggest visiting the gunshop an earlier poster mentioned. Folks there will go out of their way in helping you find a solution and/or putting you in touch with people who can.

Banana Fufu: Trigger job for your Ruger GP100 This instruction is as good as any when doing a GP100 trigger job. I would recommend doing this just to get familiar with the Ruger DA action and takedown. Clean it up as necessary then lube with some thin lube like red transmission fluid. If you do a spring job use an old kitchen fork as per comments further down the page to load the hammer spring on the strut.

"Loud as hell" I like that. I have never seen a flash hider in operation with any revolver. For 20.00 I thought, "Why not?" The DW barrel attachment method allows experimentation that doesn't require sending the gun to the factory to rebarrel. Maybe with those short barrel rounds in .38 (I think Speer makes some) that it might further reduce flash. Whether it is just a figment in "my brain" I swear that the flash hider on my 6.5" Lone Wolf barrel in my Glock 17L helps. It likely is an experiment in futility with the DW,but you never know until you try it. I also like the guy who makes the parts, he has made parts for my favorite S&W .22 pistols. So when chance landed the not mint DW in my lap I said "Here is an opportunity for some experimentation that won't cost much." Quite unlike my '91 F150 with the Mustang engine, Flow Masters and serious leakage (locals call it The Exxon Valdez).

I never thought much about DW revolvers, even after I worked on one for a fella. Then I acquired the 6" standard barrel 15-2 and started to read about them. Apparently the long barrel ones, seeing as all DW barrels are "tensioned," were extremely accurate in long distance handgun shooting. The hammer arc travel distance is supposed to be shorter than in a Ruger, Colt or S&W I believe, therefore lock time was apparently a bit quicker too. It might be educational if not just amusing to see if the flash hider does anything on the 2.5 or 6" barrel.

I had acquired in a trade for ammo and another gun, the DW as a "coke bottle" gripped 6" barrel ho hum DW .357. I Then I started to look at possibilities... I can't wait to shoot this thing.

I'm guessing this is going to be a slam dunk felony? If so she won't be legally carrying anywhere ever again, including in TN - right? I'm also guessing she won't be able to legally buy a .22 Cricket when this is over.

Pictured is my 1979 Dan Wesson 15-2 .357 Magnum made in the Monson plant. It sports a DW Mdl 14 combat grip along with a EWK Arms 2.5 barrel, EWK heavy shroud, EWK AR-style flash hider and EWK fiber optic front sigh. I also got the barrel wrench and feeler gauge from EWK. http://www.ewkarms.com