graycrait

The only semi-auto .22s that I know of that will fire Shorts, Longs, Long Rifles, Subsonics, Standard velocity, Hyper Velocity, High Velocity and Aguila SSS reliably are the discontinued Remington 550 & 550-1 and the still produced Remington 572. The current 552 being produced by Remington is the relatively costly BDL version with checkered Monte Carlo stock crazy looking font sight and that globular rear sight. I like the clean lines of the discontinued ADL with its small front and rear sights and plain stocks. http://www.remington.../model-550.aspx http://www.remington...peedmaster.aspx http://www.tngunowne...eedmaster-22lr/ Pictured is a 1971 semi-auto Rem 552 ADL under my older pump Rem 572 (which like most tube fed pumps will shoot any .22 ammo you load in it: Colibras, Shorts, Longs, Long Rifle (Subsonic, Standard Velocity, High Velocity, Hyper Velocity).

For fun I shoot 20 grain Aguila Super Colibras in my backyard. The trouble with Aguila 60 grain SSS is that they don't stabilize the best in most 1:16 .22s at this altitude and air density. They tend to need a 1:9 twist barrel. Having said that I have had good luck using the 60 grainers in a variety of rifles at 50 yards and in. Not only are the 60SSS heavy they are "slow." Data is from Ballistics by the Inch: http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/22.html 22 Results Aguila 60 gr. SSS 18"903 17"903 16"900 The scope is a relatively cheap and now discontinued Tasco 5-20x50mm AO scope.

I have had a Marlin XT since they came out. It is my backyard Colibra rifle. I really should see how it shoots regular .22LR but it is such a blast to shoot Colibras. Tube fed bolt or pump guns give you a lot of ammo latitude.

I have a Speedmaster 552 and a Fieldmaster 572 and they will be the absolute last ones to leave should it ever get down to that in my little .22 rifle "current" accumulation.

Dolamite, Very concise and comprehensive, probably the best written overview on accurizing a 10/22 without getting into machinist issues I have ever seen. I particularly found the firing pin issue clearer to me. Issue for me is reliability, fun and practical accuracy for a .22LR vs trying to get the gun to shoot like an Anschutz 2013, which just ain't going to happen: http://www.champions...&cat=353&page=1 So how much accuracy can be gained by spending a lot of money on a 10/22, seemingly not enough or we would see 10/22s in international small bore competition. But then we are now talking shades of accuracy where everything is nearly perfect including not only the hardware and ammo, but also the shooters skills and training. I'm of a mind to say the heck with it and accept defeat, personally acknowledging my limitations and accepting that any .22 that can shoot minute of squirrel head at 50 yards is likely good enough.

This might be a better way to go. That top one is very interesting, but the other two probably shoot pretty good too. http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=45892 http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=45832 http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=45281

I'm sure the other 10/22 addicts will speak up about this but there is a lot more to making a accurate 10/22 than just the barrel. You have to pay particular attention to the chamber set-up if you want to increase barrel accuracy. Then then there is bolt headspacing to be concerned about. Reliability is another issue when making an uber accuracte 10/22. Of course stock bedding, pressure pads or free float, trigger and ammo selection. It can be fun but expensive and sometimes frustrating. I often tell newcomers to 10/22s to save their money and get one of the stock barrels and bolts redone by one of the guys on rimfirecentral, slap in a couple Volquartsen parts in the trigger and create a stealth sporter If you need more accuracy than what that will give you on the 10/22 platform it is going to cost you a lot. I've probably had half dozen GM barrels with my favorite being a couple of Running Boars, one blue and the other stainless. I've had a couple of Rimfire Technology barrels, notable was the Quantum "M". Of the current 4 10/22s I have my favorite is a threaded Tactical Innovations 1:9 barrelled pretty stock 10/22, with my second favorite being a standard 18.5 barrelled stock stock looking carbine but the barrel and bolt have been worked over a bit. Lastly, making a primarily sandbag 10/22 can be fun, but unless you are willing to accept the fact it will never be consistently mechanically as accurate as a specialized target bolt gun then by all means try to squeeze more accuracy, but small incremental improvement will cost you. Then there is the weight or overall bulk. I've gone full circle and feel a 16 or 18.5" standard peg barrel taper in a standard carbine stock just feels right with the 10/22. Maybe Bill Ruger and company got it right back in 1964, except for the trigger, which can always be improved or personalized.

I'll bet these guys can do a suppressed takedown 10/22 http://www.awcsystech.com/products/suppressors/ultra-ii-semi-auto/

I scored a pair of Winchesters yesterday to go with the Win 62A I already owned. Incidentally the Win 62A I acquired yesterday is a 1956 vintage, the same year as the other 62A. However, the 1939 Winchester 63 was altered long before I acquired it. Some previous owner had it drilled and tapped (a huge no no in the collectors' market but I don't care, I shoot my guns). Installed was a sturdy well-mounted scope base that allows .22 tip off mounts. On the mount is an older Weaver D6 6x w/fine cross hairs. Unfortunately it is not very clear. Does anyone have any idea of another small rimfire scope that be a better match for this old rifle? I could take the mount off but don't want to and would rather have an older scope "that works" on it. Thanks.

I've never really had a hankering for a 77/22 or the 96/22. I had a buddy who had an integrally suppressed 77/22 and that was pretty cool.

Yeah, I don't have a lever action any longer, traded off my pre cross-bolt safety Marlin 39 and as far as bolt guns I don't know how many Mossbergs I used to have. The only bolt gun I have now is my Colibra rifle, the Marlin XT22 in the second photo. It is my backyard varmint killer with Colibras and sports a 5-20x50mm Tasco AO scope for those "hard" 10 yard shots. I do like those Remington .22s, the 572 pump and 552 semi in the lower photo guns 1&3 from top to bottom. They shoot anything and the pump shoots Colibras as well. The Winchester 62A is my nostalgia gun and it shoots pretty good too. I started shooting on a gun just like the Winchester growing up in Iowa. The Papoose is another project gun. I put a DIP Products trigger in it http://www.diproductsinc.com/Products.aspx?CAT=3603 and put on some Tech Sights. The Dip trigger makes the Marlin semi-auto way better than stock.

Here is my handful of "Rugers". Note Takedown 2nd from top. Top to Bottom: Tactical Innovations 1:9 twist threaded barrel with 2-7x28 Weaver, and Volquartsen hammer and extractor, put together specifically for 60 grain Aguila SSS New 10/22 takedown, not "Volquartsened" yet. 1:16 twist standard barrel threaded, Volquartsen hammer and extractor (gotta get an optic) Standard 18.5" barrel accurized by Rimfire Technologies with accurized bolt and VQ hammer. This is a crazy accurate rifle. I just put on a Nikon P22 2-7x32 scope w/Nikoplex reticle AMT 6.5" AMT Lightning with SoLow mount and no-name red dot (Thanks HiPower) Pre Mark I 6" Standard with old Bob Marvel trigger MKIII 22/45 fully "Volquartsened" 2lb trigger very little movement to trigger Ruger LCR .38 with Novak fiber optic

I've owned Gen 1-4, incuding an early Gen 4 19. I just tossed the dual recoil spring, got a fitting and ran it with Gen 3 springs. There was no reason other than I could and have plenty of springs in varying weights. I saw that article earlier today when I was googling under "news" with Glock as the search term. I hope Glock the gun is bigger than that squabbling Glock family.

If you want to order online you just setup an account then order. If you don't qualify for the discount you can likely find the parts elsewhere for slightly less like at MidwayUSA or Rimfiresports.com, however the non-discount price is not overbearing. For example the bushing may be 6.00 discounted but is 7.99 non-discounted.

I'm not sure if I have posted this before, oh well, here goes anyway: Ruger MKII and III improvements: These are military and military retiree prices from Brownells that currently (3/12/2012) exist online. Necessary when making a MKIII or MKIII 22/45 better than pedestrian because it replaces the space where the magazine disconnect used to be when you remove it. Removing the mag disconnect makes the pistol easier to assemble and disassemble, and lightens the trigger pull. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=31838/avs%7CManufacturer_1=VOLQUARTSEN/Product/RUGER-reg-MARK-II-HAMMER-BUSHING $6.00 Necessary for a good target trigger and reliable extraction in MK II or III Ruger .22lr pistols http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=24641/avs%7CManufacturer_1=VOLQUARTSEN/Product/RUGER-reg-MARK-II-III-TARGET-SEAR $24.29 http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=13862/avs%7CManufacturer_1=VOLQUARTSEN/Product/RUGER-reg-MARK-II-IIII-trade-22-45-TARGET-TRIGGER Black Aluminum: $27.59; Stainless: $33.10 http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=13845/avs%7CManufacturer_1=VOLQUARTSEN/Product/10-22-reg-MAGNUM-EXACT-EDGE-EXTRACTOR $9.99 MKIII 22/45 or MKIII detailed strip and reassembly http://www.guntalk-online.com/2245detailstripping.htm http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm MKII detailed strip and reassembly http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/index.htm

I am bound and determined to get the paperwork for a suppressor started this week as I have 6 threaded .22s and no suppressor. So looks like a trip to Guns and Leather on Tues. I also just read that all MKIIIs are now 1:16. As far as balance with a suppressor. I shoot my friends' suppressors on my guns. My favorite suppressed pistol is the 4" S&W 422, but on a Ruger I would probably be happy with the shortest barrelled threaded 22/45 as the polymer lower shaves a number of ounces off the gun. If you run an optic on the a suppressed 22/45 the gun should balance well enough I would think.

Something I haven't researched is the twist rate on various models. I've been reading a book that came out in '88, by Long, "The Ruger .22 Automatic Pistol." In it Long states that some models came out with 1:15 twist rates as in the Government MKII , while others like the Target had 1:14 and still others or most others 1:16 twist. I have never seen that before. I am wondering if twists rates in various models of MKIII's vary? In Skennerton's 2008 Handbook for .22 Ruger MKI, MKII and includes MKIII although not in the title, Skennerton makes no mention of the twist rates. In any case in my feeble attempts at shooting I haven't seen much difference in accuracy that seemed to be related to barrel length other than length of sight plane. With Red Dots like Millet or Matchdot the MKIII's I have had seemed to work well regardless of length of barrel.

I've watched her videos on concealed carry options. I appreciate the time she has taken to make those things because I get asked quite often by females about concealed carry options.I reccommend her videos, Lori Gervasi's book, "Fight Like a Girl and Win," and both the website and book authored by Kelly Jackson, "Cornered Cat." I am going to attend a training event focused on snub nosed revolvers next weekend where there will be some women students. I hope to learn something for myself, which I always do, and hope to learn something from the women attendees in how they approach armed self defense.

Problem I have with the M&P is how many more operational parts it has over the Glock. No big deal but I am a certified armorer for both guns. If I could have Glock innards in an M&P frame I would like that. For my hand I prefer a Glock with its fewer parts and my ability to carve the Glock frame to better fit my hand. If what goes on inside the gun doesn't have any impact in your decision get an M&P if it meets your shooting criteria. If you like simple and reliable then get a Glock.

I was pondering fiber optic sight options for my new to me S&W 640. Anyone know which size of Power Custom J-frame fiber optic works on a 640?

I couldn't help myself and got one today. Having had nearly every type of 10/22 available I like this one. I am wondering why they made it with a 18.5" barrel and not 16". In any case, as I did on my latest Papoose, I will likely install Tech Sights. Later I will install a Volquartsen hammer and Volquartsen extractor.

I fiddle around with MK series Ruger .22's quite a bit. I don't recommend spending the money on the complete Volquartsen accurizing kit. Just buy the VQ trigger and a VQ sear. If you have a MKIII you will also need a MKII hammer bushing ($6.95) to replace the space where you remove the mag disconnect. It may not be rocket science but I have enough folks ask me to replace the parts for them that for many it can be be frustrating. The first few times you detail strip a Ruger .22 MK series pistol can be a pain. MKII's are not drilled and tapped but most, but not all MKIIIs and MKIII 22/45s are and the ones that are D&T'd have rails in the box. For most folks a Millet 3MOA red dot will suffice. Both Millet and Matchdot make multi-sized red dot optics with variable dot intensity. Matchdot is sort of the gold standard but I like Millet better. This was a nice unit. I had to shave the front of the rail to fit on the 4" MKIII 22/45.

The problem is that there is no factory produced "target" semi auto .22s for under a grand that I am aware of. For a bit over a grand you could get a Volquartsen. https://www.volquartsen.com/tags/8-volquartsen-rimfire-rifles,15-complete-firearms The now discontinued Thompson Center TC55 was reputed to be more accurate out of the box than a 10/22 but was discontinued due to "issues" which I am unaware of. I have been down the rat hole more than a few times with 10/22 aftermarket and it can be frustrating. I've had at least 10 aftermarket barrels and a host of other accessories including trigger groups, bolts, stocks, etc. Right now I have 5 semi-auto .22s (soon to have a 6th and maybe a 7th) and they all are better than minute of squirrel head at 50 yards. However, if you just want throw on a shooting bag a decent shooting semi-auto .22 and make as small a hole as possible for the money it is hard to beat a 10/22 Target with the Ruger hammer forged barrel. They are heavy though. The newer tapered Sporter barrelled 10/22s are supposedly able to shoot 3/8" groups at 50 yards if the stars are aligned correctly. If all you want is a very accurate 10/22 and hang the looks just go buy a Walmart 10/22, put in a Volquartsen hammer and send the bolt and barrel to: http://www.ct-precision.com/ruger10-22.html One of my favorite semi-autos is the Remington 552. Remington still makes this rifle but in the "expensive" BDL (checkered) version. I have an older ADL version. It will shoot any ammo except Colibras, amazing rifle. My most accurate semi-auto is a 10/22 that has a standard 18.5" barrel rechambered and crowned by Rimfire Technologies as well as a bolt done by RT. However, it probably isn't any more accurate with bulk ammo than is my 10/22 that has been recrowned and threaded by a fella here Clarksville or the 1:9 twist threaded barrelled 10/22 I put together for Aguila 60 grain SSS ammo. You are going to have to have a properly aligned barrel with a consistent headspace and that may mean having a chamber cut for a specific ammo. In a semi-auto then reliability becomes an issue. Will that bolt headspace precisely every time? Will the barrel need to be floated or will it work better with a pressure pad. What kind of bedding will you want/need. Again, for the money the 10/22 Targer would be hard to beat. If you wanted a lighter set-up then either a full custom build or simply replace the 10/22 Target barrel with a lighter barrel from Volquartsen, Rimfire Technologies or one of the many other 10/22 barrel builders. Then there is real accurate: http://www.6mmbr.com/rimfiretactical.html http://www.6mmbr.com/gunweek089.html http://www.6mmbr.com/gunweek078.html

the first go round I suggest taking the trigger group apart in a 1 gallon bag +1 on the above advice

http://www.teslamap.com/public/sp101_trigger_job/index.html I think a good fluff and buff is about all a Ruger DA revolver needs. The above link is a good place to start. I have used Power Custom shims on S&W DA revolvers to good effect but have some doubts as to the level of improvement shims may make in the Ruger. Now that I have seen the shims I would do the action job specified in the above link then try the shims. Why not? http://www.triggershims.com/ruger_double_action.html