graycrait

Don't get too hung up on how your carry EDC fixed blade is made. Pakistani 55 gal drum steel will cut pretty good if tempereed and sharpened well enough. It is more about how the knife is carried and how it flows into the hand than the actual material of blade and handle. If you arre riding a horse a cross draw fixed blade may work better for you. If you are a flatlander and walker like I am then a free swinging Canadian survival knife by Grohman will suffice for 98% of the time. http://www.grohmannknives.com/pages/r1s.html I used to make sheaths for a custom knife maker and folks think too hard on this subject and spend too much money on knives. A decent Ka Bar and Swiss Army pocket knive will likely cut everything that ever needs cutting.

I'm interested to know if anyone knows anyone in the region selling good hunting Airedales or Pit Bull x Greyhound crosses? Craig in Clarksville

Glock 19: fewer parts, longer track record, plenty of holsters and accessories, shoots any ammo.

I've never made a knife of any kind, but used to have every book written on the subject. I used to make leather knife sheaths for a fella who made knives. I designed a small fixed blade knife and then had a friend in Scotland do up some CAD renditions in both fixed and folder. Then I commissioned a fella in Georgia, USA to make one example of the knife. I've paper wheel sharpening up to a couple of months ago when I inherited this jury rigged homemade 1x42. I must have 40 belts including a couple of leather ones. Right now I have a Zirconian 120 belt on it and it brings up a wire edge which I take off on the paper buffing wheel. Works for me know. I will wait until I get the Viel S-5-M before I start using a leather belt to finish the edge.

I pulled the trigger and ordered a Viel S-5-M http://www.vieltools.com/detail.php?p=NTQy&l=ZW4= to replace my homemade 1x42 belt sander that doesn't track accurately and takes too long to change belts. The 4th link below shows a fella using a 1x42 to sharpen a knife. His machine is a Baldor but the Viel changes belts the same way. I've used quite a few systems including paper wheels on bench grinders and the 1x42 belt grinder. I have a number of other sharpening systems. The belt sander is fast and safe. Paper wheels are fast and sometimes not so safe. I have an Edgepro Apex I have had for years with a wide variety of stones, tapes and diamond blocks. I've had Lansky and Gatcos and have just about every brand of stone and handheld gadget there is. I've even had a couple of those electric gadgets like the Chef's Choice. So far nothing beats the 1x42 IMHO. http://www.vieltools.com/detail.php?p=NTQy&l=ZW4= http://www.mwells.org/woodworking/sharpening/review---viel-tools-s5-belt-grinder http://sharpeningmadeeasy.com/belt.htm

Ascertaining an acceptable and common sense price can be a hard issue. 1) You have normal small store NIB price plus tax plus background. 2) Then there is the ability to get the gun from production. Examples are S&W M&P Shield, Keltec KSG or PMR30, Ruger SR1911, etc. This is where you see what I call "Gunbroker" "buy it now" prices for hard to find low production/high demand guns. 3) Then there are Blue Book prices, which often don't seem to fit each gun in its geographical regional price range or is just plain "off" with common sense demand. The clearest example of a below market value price for a gun listed in the Blue Book is the discontinued Ruger Speed Six 9mm. If you sell a Speed Six 9mm for what the Blue Book lists it for the buyer is likely going to make several hundred dollars more on reselling that same gun. But the Blue Book is a recognized pricing guide and is useful for many guns, just not all. 4) There is also the "Bud's Gun Price." Trouble with that is that most purchases from Bud's requires a transfer fee and the background check. But I do check what Bud's sells guns for on certain models to come up with some reasonable price on a used gun I want to sell or trade figuring Bud's likely has the lowest listed retail price. 5) Pawn Shop prices. I don't go to Pawn Shops any longer. Nearly all around here are chain operations and I haven't seen what I call a good deal on a decent gun sitting in a local pawn shop in a long long time around Clarksville. So lets say you list a good condition used Gen 3 Glock 19 with 3 mags and stock sights for around 425-450.00. Seems reasonable, maybe even low in some regions. But you get an offer from someone who says "I'll give you 150.00." I have to assume one of the following: 1) The guy has never purchased a gun before and has no clue what he is doing other than "horse trading." 2) He is hoping you are desparate for any money (which I think most lowballers fall into this category. Some in this category are: a) desparate too in that they want a gun very badly but have little money or b. trying to make a profit. Profiteering is an acceptable practice but if you are lowballer don't get your drawers all bunched up if the seller laughs in your face. 3) The prospective buyer is mentally challenged. From the description above I see mostly 2.b. style low ballers - profiteers. I guess they feel that if you throw enough mud at the wall some will eventually stick. Occasionally I see a #1. On rare occasions I have seen a 2.a. But 2.a. guys don't usually offer, they just wish (generally describes myself when perusing Armslist, Gunbroker, GunsAmerica, Auction Arms or most any online gun ads).

Not for the .40 Shield but maybe the 9mm Shield:)

I got to handle a KSG yesterday. It went out the door at my friend's gunshop for about 648.00 I believe. Seems pretty cool but I would hate to drop that on the sidewalk - lots of plastic in that gun. I am a fan of plastic handgun frames but I dunno about the KSG. One happy camper on the wait list went home with that one.

I've seen five, one 40 and 4 9s. My favorite gunshop hasn't had one in a good while though. I did get to handle the new Sig 938 yesterday, pretty nice, but for the price and the plain fact I like the Shield better I'll wait a year or so and get a Shield - hopefully by then they will be a regular shelf item. Hard to argue against a Ruger LC9 if you get the Galloway Precision trigger. However, because I do get to handle most of these guns I'm going to wait for a Shield.

I like Dawson sights and have used them on other range guns. I may have to get some for my MKIII bull barrels. http://www.dawsonprecision.com/CategoryProductList.jsp?cat=SIGHTS+FRONT:Ruger+.22+Front+Sights http://www.dawsonprecision.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=80001614-1342561933

If a person never changed brands and used the same quart of oil to take care of his at the house guns I wonder how long a quart would last? I've had a half gallon of CLP for about 5 or 6 years. It doesn't look much lower than when I got it and I use it almost exclusively just because I have it and someone gave it to me when they were moving. Counter that with a precision applicator and I bet a quart would last nearly a lifetime for even a moderately active shooter. However most folks I know try this and that wonder lube, never truly sticking with one lube out of one container year after year.

To fully disassemble a classic 1911 (Series 70) the only place you need a tool is when you remove the mag release, requires something akin to a small flat bladed screw driver. Some 1911s come with guide rods that rquire an allen wrench or paperclip to get the thing fully disassembled. I've never disassembled a Series 80 with whatever is akin to the Schwartz device. I'll have to do that today. To fully disassemble a M&P you need a roll pin punch and hammer. And when you fully disassemble a M&P be very careful when you remove the sear, there is a tiny spring under the plunger that puts pressure on the sear. Also, if your M&P has the manual thumb safety be careful of that spring also, it is tiny and has pressure on it. I know, I launched one at the M&P Armorer's course and we never did find that one. It is easier to put the sear spring and sear plunger back in with a small tweezers. Also on the M&P when you remove the rear sight make sure you pay attention to orientation of the disk that rests on the spring which puts pressure on the striker safety block. Convex side down.

I would be hardpressed to count the DA revolvers I have had. I like S&W 19s but they are big for CCW and don't hold up well to a steady diet of .357. I don't like cleaning the ring in the cylinders that shooting .38s in a .357 leave. Flame cutting above the forcing cone can be an issue with Model 19s also. You rarely see them but I think the Mdl 15 by S&W is pretty nice, lines of the 19 but in .38, which means a shorter cylinder so there is no ring from shooting .38s. I had a S&W 28 once - those things are huge. I just did a fair action job on a retired LEO's J-frame 442. The Aireweights can be troublesome in shooting because many shooters "torque" the gun when they pull the trigger especially if the trigger is a little stiff or gritty. Get that trigger smoothed up and a bit lighter and they are marvelous carry guns. I have only 2 S&Ws currently, a 640 and a Mdl 10. My all time favorite S&W is the Mdl 17. I got to handle a nice early 50's 5 screw K22 pre-model 17 the other day, like the one I used to own. Sort of made me have the "I wants" but I got over it in light that I have an ammo can filled with .22 pistols and one old SA/DA H&R .22 revolver (my Colibra gun). Ruger DAs are pretty nice. They generally don't smooth up in action like a S&W does, but I got to feel one that Jeff Walle at Guns and Leather did for a fella and really liked it. Usually judicous spring changes and cleaning up action contact points makes a Ruger better than out of the box. I nearly purchased it myself as it was for sale, but told myself that I would never carry it and I have enough "goofy" and too big to carry range handguns. I've had Security Sixes, Speed Sixes, GP100s, SP101s and LCRs. I even had a 9mm Speed Six one time. That gun was fun. I had 18 moon clips for it. But my thoughts were that a Glock 19 was more practical in that caliber. Dan Wessons are OK, I have one, but think both the Ruger and S&W are better self defense guns. However for a fun range revolver it is hard to beat the DW's versatility. In the past few years I have had a few run ins with poorly functioning revolvers made by the new Charter Arms, Taurus and Rossi. INMHO those brands, especially recent vintages, are more trouble than they are worth. I would recommend saving a few more bucks and get a Ruger or S&W. As well as I know DA revolvers and I can shoot them passably, and not just lined up square to a target, I would still go with the 9mm Glock as a SYA gun given the choice.

http://www.notpurfect.com/main/dwrev.htm

@gray - any reasons to swap out the recoil spring other than cycling issues? I've seen this adapters where you can use to accommodate the gen 3 springs Nah, I don't see any reason unless you want to change the feel of the recoil impulse.

I think I have owned at least 10 G19s, but have 3 right now. People keep buying mine and no I don't make a profit on them, just sell them for cost and parts just so folks know what a good reliable gun is like. I'm paying it forward. I have only owned one Gen 4 G19. I like the Gen4 Glock primarily for the wide flat mag release and without any back straps it is 3/16" smaller in LOP or thereabouts. But I doubt that I will need to do a mag change in my lifestyle so Gen3 Glocks are my preference, but I can't turn down a Glock marked "MPDC." I don't like any of the aftermarket mag releases, the Gen 4 one was done right in that respect. In the Gen 4 I had I replaced the dual recoil spring with a single spring which required me to get a reduction fitting for the nose piece in the slide. The reason I like Gen 1,2,3 Glocks is I can change recoil spring weight easily. However I prefer Gen 3 Glocks over all others. Why change recoil springs? Some cheap ammo, and I am cheap, won't cycle the slide like a NATO round will or other higher performance ammo will. So when I go to the range I like to be able to change springs to accommodate ammo that may have the "punies." This is really important with the G34 and G17L. When you see me carrying a Glock as a SYA gun I have Cor Bon 115+P in it. I have found nothing that comes close INMHO. In addition and not relevant to this post's central theme, I view anyone who gets into "caliber wars" in handguns as a wannabe or as they say in the UK in certain "sports" a "poser."

What are lubing so precisely? Guns;) How do you do and with what? Like Dolomite I use a 50/50 of oil and tranny fluid on most things. Lubriplate on slides and tranny fluid on S&W revolvers. I like to use a $2.00 needle applicator to put enough oil on the gun. I'm going to say this with a grin: I have a bucket of Glocks, 3 with no finish on the slides and never had a rusty one. And I am notorious for not cleaning my Glocks very often.

First thing I do is a put in a Ghost 3.5lb connector, 6lb trigger spring, clean up the safety tab that protrudes from the trigger shoe so that it lays flush when I pull the trigger, but still maintains its "usefulness" as a safety. Beyond that I generally do the .25 cent trigger job. I think a Fulcrum trigger is not out of order if you really want a good feeling trigger.

Yes I use these things. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Refillable-Needle-Precision-Pin-point-Oiler-NO-OIL-/250647690084?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5bc43b64 NO This doesn't work well for precision: http://www.garrettwade.com/pinpoint-oiler-1/p/30C03.01/ NO INMHO these don't work too well and they tip over: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1200/Product/NEEDLE-OILER-BOTTLES NO I didn't like this either, became a leaker: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/450802/dewey-ultimate-gun-oiler-1-oz-2-1-2-stem Maybe These guys have some useful looking applicators and tips. http://www.precisionoilerplus.com/

http://www.danwessonforum.com/ tswenka, I attached this thread to an email to Eric Kovachic of EWK ARms and posted it on the DW Forum. You have two fine looking revolvers there. I think they are both 15-2s but I am going to let the experts decide that. That inlaid and engraved revolver is something else. It would be neat to hear/read the story on that one. Craig

tswenka post pics especially where the gun was made.

pfries, The OP was talking LC9 not LCP. However, the LCPs are fine guns.

RWF, Benton county matches? I have enough trouble with those fellows down in Warren County, no need to visit the pros up in Benton County. Whenever I visit the Viola Valley Shooting range not only do the local LEO show up but generally a half dozen or so "retired" bulls eye shooters are hanging about. I love it when I hear some fella say, "You look like a pretty good shot, why don't we start out shooting a "buck" a shot....." I wasn't born yesterday... Some good shooters down in Warren County. Good day to you! Craig in Montgomery County

I grew up and lived in clarksville for a long time..I am not aware of a significant "gang problem". Young people being ignorant, and hotheaded is not necessarily gang realted... sounds like a politician or someone woefully out of touch,maybe both. In any case, I won't follow your lead, anywhere, anytime.

I live in an area of Clarksville some call Mogadishu. I know Clarksvillians who won't come into this part of town - good riddance, lower traffic rat. My pit bull is lying on the rug waiting for something to happen, which never does. My cop buddies tell me what is going on if I need to know. Locals don't bother with this old man who has fixed their or their kids' bikes, taught them how to shoot a bow and otherwise not interrupted the normal ebb and flow of urban life. If someone bothers my wife, they will have the biggest problem of their life. Will something happen someday, I expect so. But then I expected something to happen when I deployed to combat zones on my own on a couple of occasions. When I get too old to live here I expect I will move to a condo somewhere close to the hospital and grocery store. Until then, bring it on.... live for the breath...