graycrait

I carry a P32 everyday and have for 6 years or so with ball ammo. I think the hardchrome ones need less initital fluff and buff,while being a bit easier ot clean. http://goldenloki.com/gunsmith/keltec/fullrp.htm

I will have to look again but I know that my Gen 1 2-pin has a different slide stop lever shape. However, I'll bet in your case of light strikes involves some or a combo of: 1. Striker damage or wear 2. Weak striker spring 3. Dirty striker channel which could also include damaged channel liner and even damaged spring cups (although I haven't seen spring cups damaged) 4. A bur inside or outside of where the striker pokes out of the breech face. Bottom line is have someone who knows the Glock well completely disassemble and reassemble the gun. Barring a broken locking block here is the things I have found wrong when folks fool around with the guts of their Glocks. 1. Extractor depressor plunger installed backwards 2. Slide lock installed backwards 3. On 3-pin Glocks slide lock lever spring "over" the upper (locking block pin) 4. Damaged or gunked up channel liner (don't put oil in the striker channel) I mentioned the locking block not because I have ever seen it but a military gunsmith for a Ft Campbell unit who shoot their training Glocks to death told me that he sees broken locking blocks occasionally. I harp on recoil springs, especially when using aftermarket barrels. I have an extra long barrel in one of my 17Ls. I have to use a lighter spring if I am shooting anemic ammo. I have had a ported 34 barrel that was notorious for poor ejection. Two things fixed that different recoil springs and heavier weight ammo.

More to the story: Two weeks ago a young friend of mine traded me his newly put together Colt 6921 AR that included aftermarket names like: Daniel Defense, Troy Industries, Matech, Revels triggers, etc. I was a happy man. This friend is a good man, father, dog man and tactical gun enthusiast, as well as Iraq and Afghanistan vet. His experience actually using a tactical rifle trumps mine by at least 100%. I thought, I have the Holy Grail of assualt rifles. Now in my 58th year I will have an assault rifle that will make me "respectable." I was so happy I took it to the gun shop I haunt and showed it to a friend last week, a veritable walking encyclopedia of AR and assault weapons lore. After placing it in his hands he told me he had to have it for a scientific experiment to compare against his Daniel Defense, Larue Tactical, LMT and one or two more quality ARs he currently owns. I laughed and told him, "What have you got I need?" I was thinking, "He would never have anything that would trump this not be repeated Colt AR." He frowned and said, "Nothing." I laughed inwardly, knowing that me, "the cheap bastard" finally had a gun that was worthy of respect. This guy also knows that I am a .22lr and Glock 9mm freak. Monday he comes to me and says he has an X-Five Tactical he would trade. My jaw hit the floor, while I soiled myself. A year or so ago a friend lent me his X-Five and when I shot it I was completely and utterly astonished - now believing the Sig Kool-Aid. I had never handled a pistol that shot so easily so well. But being a cheap bastard I knew I would never be able to actually own an X-Five. Now I own an X-Five. Zombies and 8X11 sheets of paper beware! Once I clean myself up I will be a force to be.... well you know me...

oops! Take the slide stop lever out and replace it with one for a two-pin gun. http://www.topgunsupply.com/glock-slide-stop-levers/

Take that extended slide release out! First it won't help you and will only hinder you with early slide lock on any Glock if you have a "thumbs up" grip" with any Generation of Glock. I know.... Secondly it isn't the proper slide lock lever for a 2 pin Glock. I'll bet if you get a two pin slide lock your problems will be solved. But then that ported barrel still may require a bit more "oomph" than provided by Winchester White Box 115 or similar ammo.

http://www.sigsauer.com/CatalogProductDetails/p226-x-five-tactical.aspx I traded into this X-Five Tactical today. I got to shoot his very gun about a year ago or so. At that time I was flabbergasted at how easy this pistol was to shoot well. When it is time they will be prying my cold dead fingers off this one.

1. Ported barrel should need 124 grain ammo 2. Make sure the slide lock spring spring is underneath the top pin if a 3 pin gun or that the slide lock spring is underneath that locking block like it is supposed to be. 3. Clean out the firing pin channel and maybe replace the channel liner. If you don't have the appropriate tool just dig it out with a dental pick and replace. 4. Put in a new striker spring. Whoever put that barrel in may have put in a reduced power striker spring, something I never recommend. 5. Make an uncaptured guide rod or a get a guide rod that is capable of spring changes and buy several weights of springs to find the best spring for the ammo you like to shoot. That ported barrel needs to be tuned to both ammo and springs. 6. Trade me that "no good" Glock 19 for my fine functioning stainless steel .357 S&W 640. Craig in Clarksville

I would like to correspond, shoot, trade, - with, etc. with other 10/22 enthusiasts in the Clarksville area. pm me at: ch8156@gmail.com Craig in Clarksville

There is a fella around here who has done quite a bit of it. He did a kydex holster for me with skulls on about 6 months ago or so. Unbelievably durable. I saw a couple of guns he did. He did a glock in some kind of grass pattern. If he ever lays that thing down he won't find it again. I need to look into this myself. I like to change stuff up on the Glocks. I would like to see how it holds up to heat on a semi-auto pistol slide.

Larry is a fella who a met when I used to hang out at Gayle Hall's shop, mostly talking guns and occasionally getting thrown out by Gayle for interrupting a "deal." As to knives and materials. I have read a lot about knives, made a lot of sheaths for knives and had quite a few. I know more about knife steel than most, and know how to sharpen them. Haven't made any. Anyway, I knew that Larry, a retired Clarksville Police Dept Captain, made a variety of things in his smithy and occasionally sells them uptown at a trademens gathering on Saturdays. Larry had a variety of useful and decorative forged items. His snakes are awesome! I picked up this "horshoe knife" today. Use what you have and if you know how to sharpen a knife it doesn't matter if it is steel from a 55 gallon drum or a horseshoe. I picked one of these up today and want to get a another knife Larry made out of a box wrench. Craig in Clarksville

When you have more time than sense. I saw something similar on the internet. Cost: <$10.00; $5.00 flea market folding chair; $3.00 worth of PVC pipe; $2.00 PVC joints; stakes lying around, hammer ? Time: < 30 minutes if you have the parts Weight: 10lbs Why?: Because I needed it and wanted something I could adjust height to so that I can shoot at various heights depending on backstop, distance and postion.. If necessary the stakes are driven through two of the feet which already have holes drilled through the plastic bases. I kept the hammer small due to weight.

Glad to see you have a VQ trigger installed. Did you put in the VQ sear also? Remove the mag disconnect? Nice mounting job.

I want to get a Tipton Carbon fiber rod and can't figure out if the length that Tipton quotes is overall length including the handle, or is it just the "working part of the rod". I don't want to buy one that is so much longer I can't easily work with it but I do have one .22 that has a 29" barrel. Thanks, Craig in Clarksville

Mac, What kind of barrel are you using and what does the rig look like? Craig

Having had dozens of revolvers I would second the S&W 19 or 66 better yet the 65 or a 13. If it were me I would cut the hammer spur off of a 4-3" 65/13 and you will be a happy young man. Then when you get some more years under your belt you will opt for a Glock 19.

I see you can buy a new Ruger OEM receiver from Shooters Discount for 105.00 when they have them. Otherwise it would seem to me buying a used complete 10/22 would make more sense if one could find one. Select Fire http://ruger1022receiver.3dcartstores.com/RAZOR-Receiver-Blanks_c_7.html Buy new ruger receiver for 105.00 http://www.shootersdiscount.com/cart/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=6 Volquartsen or PWS receivers: http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=RSC&Category_Code=RCVRS Tactial Innovations: http://www.tacticalinc.com/receivers-parts-c-774_606.html Zimmerman Arms http://www.zimmermanarms.com/zimmerman-arms-receivers.html Kidd http://www.coolguyguns.com/RiflesReceivers_c_10.html MOA http://www.moaguns.com/rec10_22.html

Been there and done that many times. Nothing beats a Keltec .32 using FMJ with hardchrome slide, along with a cellphone, good trauma wound first aid kit in all the cars, decent pepper spray and a decent legal knife. I am not an assassin or contract government killer, just a pogue wandering around during decent light in decent areas - for the most part. I have the KT 32 on me about 98% of the time, a Glock on me about 90% of the time. I'm fairly strong and fit 58 yr old (I'm no Iron Man or triathlete by a long shot) who still plays some competitive out door sports and enjoys shooting with the local GIs. Unless you have an occupation that requires you to be heeled with a large caliber high capacity pistol, rifle, etc., most of us can get by with what I typically carry. I don't hang out at nasty places late in the evening, or partake in events or hobbies which make me an automatic target for the underworld or terrorists. But then I have modifed a Glock 21 for one of my friends who insists a 50 GI at 300 grains is the right EDC for him. Why hardchrome? Easy to clean, reliable... P.S. in the photo that is a 3x5 index card. The gun weighs 10.4oz loaded with one in the pipe. 8 shots. it is a true pocket pistol. The trigger shoe is a modified P11 shoe that I prefer on this gun.

FIST, Dude with 34 556 Sigs, 9 9mm ARs and no one can count the number of 5.56 ARs assembled and parts, is back in Korea for 3 months. I think I will concern myself with lightening my lightweight AR and Mall Ninjoiing the Colt AR. Craig

Don't want to hijack this but I tell everyone to radius and cut up the area where a Glock trigger gaurd meets the grip. I think making a radius where the guard meets the grip allows one to shoot prolonged range sessions without getting the "Glock knuckle." The more you shoot comfortably makes you a better shooter overall. Here is one of my less radical cuts that I did for a fella.

Once in while the are in the classifieds here: http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/index.php They don't last long. Other than finding a beater 10/22 for a 100 bucks somewhere used there isn't such a thing as a cheap aftermarket receiver although at least half a dozen companies make them. Problem with a used OEM receiver it is the FFL item and all fees/costs applies. Those OEM Ruger carbine stocks sometimes can be sold for 30-40 bucks. Probably the cheapest way to go is to try and sell your carbine stock and put the money towards a new or used complete 10/22.

quietguy, you mean front heavy like a mall ninja AR with a UTG quad rail or worse? Craig

Has anyone had one of these? How much do they weigh if they are railed? Craig

From what I understand you now have to send your trigger bar to Galloway and he will do what he does to it for around 40.00. Then you reinstall. Therefore to do this you or someone you know has to disassemble the LC9 to get the trigger bar to Galloway. I took the LC9 to the range today. The trigger worked well but it still requires you to let the trigger out nearly all the way to reset. You can't "ride the reset" like on a Glock. I don't think the gun is small enough for pocket carry. I prefer carrying the Diamondback DB9 but I like shooting the LC9 more than the DB.

I walked into my favorite gunshop this morning and spied two pre-owned LC9 s in the used pistol case. One was your generic LC9 with 3 mags, the other had a laser and two mags and the manager said to me, "pull the trigger on the one with the laser and you will recognise it." For the fun of it, I have put in two Galloway Precision LC9 triggers and the one with the laser was one of them. The gal who had traded it on for a S&W BG .380 wanted something smaller and easier to control. Holy S.......! Anyway. I had had a LC9 when they first came out and thought, along with some experienced friends, it had the worst trigger ever - so I traded it . A few months later along comes Galloway Precision with their trigger bar mods. I put in two for a couple of gals who come into my friend's gunshop. I love them, but don't have the jack to actually buy a new LC9 and install the Galloway trigger. Today was my lucky day. One of my own Galloway trigger installed LC9s came into the shop on a trade. I got to pick it up for a good price due to my volunteer work. I can't wait till my wife gets home tonight. This is going to be her favorite gun and it has a factory laser too!

I've owned just about every sub-600.00 .22 pistol known. Do what Dolomite says and get a Ruger. I have 5 or 6 threaded .22s and the long discontinued S&W 2206, 622 and 422 are my favorites. I do have a 22/45 Lite and I like it, but don't shoot with a suppressor with any of the guns unless I borrow one from several of my friends who have them. I've had a couple of the other Ruger threaded barrel models. I like the weight and balance of the 22/45 over the MKIII (all steel guns). I do have an older friend who thinks his MKII has over 300,000 rds through it. As far as aftermarket and accuracy: I don't think anything beats the Ruger, when those two things are combined. in the later models remove the mag disconnect, put in a standard MKII bushing in its place, put in a Volquartsen sear and Volquartsen hammer and you are "there." I also removed the Loaded Chamber indicator in the two 22/45s I currently have. I've had Buckmarks and they are decent guns but I prefer the Ruger. Once you learn how to disassemble and reassemble the thing it is a snap, but isn't intuitive at first. If I run across a Ruger that has been disassembled so much it is a bit loose from the frame it is an easy thing to shim the gun tight.