graycrait

I've put in Apex kits in several guns, it ain't rocket science or I wouldn't have tackled it. I prefer a M&P with just the sear replaced, not the whole kit. I put these kits in before I went to the M&P Armorers Course. The Apex site has good enough videos. I would have a long jawed tweezers just to make fooling with the tiny sear plunger and spring easier to handle.

Buy it now!!!!!!!!!

TMF hit the nail on the head. Get the KT P11 for a SYA gun. Rossi is pimp cool but reliability and capacity beats the wheel gun. However, after shooting and owning both I prefer either to a pipe and nail.

The only negative I have I got from someone else because I don't have a suppressor (yet) is that the threads are aluminum. However once I took out the mag disconnect replacing the space with a MKII bushing for 6.00, and installed both a VQ trigger and sear, while tossing out the LCI mine shoots great. My wife says the Lite is hers and I can have the 22/45 5.5", which was originally hers. She likes the weight and balance of the Lite.

Just be careful and do your research before you buy. Just like in any area where a profit motive exists there are a lot of folks trying their darndest to separate the rubes from their money. I've sat down with a couple 1911 collectors and was fairly amazed at the detailed knowledge one generally needs to separate the wheat from the chaff with regards to 1911 collecting. Then of course you have the issue of the person who wants $3K for a $1K pistol, but that is normal stuff. I wish I could go back to the times when I was issued a 1911 and see what I had in terms of make of slide and frame ref: DMarks comments. All I know is that it rattled like castenets and turned bright orange with even a hint of rain in the forecast. I don't think it liked leaving the arms room.

DaveTn makes a good point about buying American, supporting American workers. I personally wish the M&P had as positive reset a the Glock and didn't have have a substantially higher number of small internal parts. I don't like the stock Glock trigger shoe face either but it is less than a 5 minute job to safely skin down that trigger safety so that it still functions but is flat when you press the trigger. Some folks like that thing sticking up in the middle as an finger pad index point and for beginners or those who don't shoot their pistols a lot that might make sense. For me the ergonomics of the M&P are nearly perfect except for the area where the inside of my basal thumb joint hits the seam where the M&P removable backstrap meets the pistol frame. However, like the Glock trigger safety, that is less than a 5 minute job with a dremel. For those who don't like the trigger pull on an M&P Apex makes a hardened sear that improves the trigger pull markedly. It is not hard to install. I caution against installing the entire Apex action kit as it seems to me to make the trigger too light and the break point vague IMHO. Unlike the Glock you will have to use a hammer to fully disassemble a M&P and a roll pin punch. Also in disassembling the M&P the sear spring and plunger are very small and hard to handle. Another thing about working on an M&P is that if you have ambi safety the spring that rides in that apparatus is even smaller than the sear spring. I launched one of those in the M&P Armorer class never to be seen again. My take on the two guns: M&P is reliable, maybe easier to initially shoot well, and ergonomically pleasant, Made in America, about 25% more parts, requires a hammer to disassemble and has a couple of easy to lose parts and in my opinion those small parts may be easier to gunk up. Glock has poorer ergonomics (my opinion), has fewer parts, probably overall cheaper parts if you need them, huge aftermarket, easier to completely dis and re-assemble, found nearly everwhere in the world and for those sold in the US it is made in Austria. I prefer either over a pipe and nail.

I've been playing around with 60 grain SSS for a few years. I second Dolomite's experience in small semi-autos with the 60grn SSS, it runs those little guns well. In fact the 60 grainers seems to cylce most semiautos well. However, I have had some issues getting them to run reliably in 10/22s with aftermarket barrels and receivers. I have both a 1:9 and a 1:11.25 (made with this twist specifically for 60grain SSS). Fortunately the 1:11.25 runs standard 40 grain ammo better than I would have predicted. I think the 60grain bullet would run nicely in a bolt action .22 if it had a 1:12 twist barrel. In two 10/22s that I typically use this round in I have issues with it "dirtying up" the chamber quickly, making extraction difficult. I shoot 10/22s for fun, when they don't run, it ain't fun no more. In my toggle action 10/22 receiver, a receiver I thought would be ideal for the 60 grain SSS, it is a poor performer, regardless of barrel twist. The lead section of the 60 grain SSS is quite long and soft. The bolt of this receiver badly scores the bullet of the 60SSS on the back stroke, even after radiusing the portion of the bolt that causes the bullet damage. I think I will again try the 60SSS out in my bolt, pumps and tube fed semi-auto .22s to see if one of those guns will run it well without scoring or bending the bullet itself. I think the 60 grainers would work well in a single shot .22 if the barrel twist was correct for the round. However, in repeaters the soft length of the bullet has to be a concern if the load angle is too severe. The 60 grainer feeds well in both my tube fed bolt guns but the twist rate of the barrel is wrong. I am close to writing off the 60grain SSS as a novelty round although it is quite powerful. I do know a guy who uses the 60grainer SSS in a revolver to dispatch certain larger game he has captured using head shots. Maybe this is the 60grainers best venue, up close and personal handgun use.

I've had over a dozen 1911s and have a friend with nearly 50, yes - fifty. Crazy. Anyway I like fiddling with 1911s because they are easy to work on at the kitchen table. I fitted a new trigger in a young FT Campbell soldier's Sig 1911 the other day. He forced me to take $6.00 for my trouble, I simply enjoyed doing it just because it was a slightly new take on the safety for me and wanted to see what it was like. 1911s are like tinker toys up to a point. Huge aftermarket and fitting the right part is not overly hard with hand tools. However, I did say "HAD" a dozen or so 1911s. I had the good fortune to have another friend of mine lend me 4 Single Action Sigs, 2 x 220 in .45, 1 x 220 in .22LR and 1 x 226 X-Five in 9mm. I always poo poo'd the Sig Kool Aid. Now that I own that X-Five I am really considering dumping some Glocks. The X-Five is sort of big for CCW but man is that a fine gun to shoot and I have shot it with both good and bad ammo, mixed up "extra" rounds loaded at random in mags, etc. It won't quit and it shoots straight. I have also had 3 or 4 9mm 1911s and they don't hold a candle to the X-Five IMHO. If you are a .45ACP fan and want a Single Action pistol I think you try out a Sig P220 SAO before you lay out a grand for a 1911, that same grand will get you in or nearly in a SAO 220. Different feels and different actions but I recommend that you don't ignore the Sigs out of hand like I did for so long. Again, not a big deal but I am Glock and S&W M&P armorer and have owned mulitiple copies of each as well as CZ, HK, FN, etc. At this moment I put the Sig SAO above em all. Craig

Wish I hadn't gotten rid of mine.

I've never owned a .40 Glock but I have a LEO friend who does and owns many dozens of pistols. I was shooting at the Viola Valley Shooting Range one day alongside this guy and commented that I didn't know he had a G34. He told me he didn't, that he had a G35. I said those aren't .40 cals he is shooting. He said, I was right, that he had put a stock Glock 34 barrel in his 35 and for shooting steel it works just fine and accuracy is acceptable for that. I'm not saying I endorse that but I am just saying... However, it does appear that Lonewolf has conversion barrels in stock: http://www.lonewolfdist.com/products.aspx?CAT=241

Listen to Dolomite, he has spent a lot of time on the mechanics of the 10/22. I've likely had at least 15 10/22s in my lifetime, trying this and that. Right now I have 5 of my own and two that belong to others doing some things to them. With a good barrel I can't reinforce what Dolomite has said about getting the bolt cleaned up. Here are two that are well-regarded on Rimfire Central. Randy at CPC http://community-2.webtv.net/RandyAtCPC/CPC1022BoltRework/ Que: https://sites.google.com/site/quesplace/ Also, if it were my 10/22 I would: 1) remount or change scopes just to see. 2) remount the barrel and torque the V-block bolts and if you are using an aftermarket V-block try using the stock Ruger V-block 3) Change ammo 4) What kind of stock are you using? Make sure you have the barrelled action properly tightened to the stock. Speaking of ammo: Dolomite thinks Federal Automatch is a good 10/22 ammo this year for the price. Ammo runs do very. I have to agree with Dolomite but I also have had good luck lately with Remington Goldens. I have tried everything with regards to ammo in 10/22s even good set-ups with specially reamed barrel chambers. I'm talking Wolf Match, Eley Tenex, and other Eley types, SK of various types, and just about every other match rifle or pistol ammo out there. With non-stock Ruger sporter chambers I am through with lead round nose bullets in 10/22s, especially in the 4 aftermarket barrels I currently have. Too much leading and unreliability in extraction too quickly. I'll use LRN ammo in my other .22s.

Dave, I enjoy that we can agree to disagree. As you can see by my post I didn't advocate lighter springs. However, current state of MIM and Airweights in general doesn't allow for a very smooth J-frame. You can't realize much improvement but you can gain a bit if you smooth some things up carefully. However, you are quite right when you say shoot it. If you have the time and money to shoot 5K rds through your pocket gun then by all means go do it and it will probably be as smooth as it will ever be. I sort of beat that whole deal and carry a semi-auto rather than the J-frames. But I do like the snikety snick of a nice running revolver machine.

Granted, due to the aluminum body there isn't a lot you can do. But the internal workings of the J frame are nearly equal to the bigger frames. I've found Miculeks video translates well to small S&W revolvers also. Remember that the aluminum should not be addressed in any way with abrasives other than a very light stroke if there is a small offending burr edge in a critical spot. Never ever touch the edges where the side plate fits, steel or aluminum. Things that can be done is to spin the posts with fine steel wool a bit. Then Flitz the trigger and hammer pin holes. The rebounding block can always stand a little polishing on the bottom and back. The rebound spring can be lightly rubbed with a piece of fine abrasive and another piece of abrasive can be rolled up and the rebound spring hole polished a bit. The sides of the hammer that contacts the bosses can be lightly polished as can the bosses but with care. The cylinder stop can generally be cleaned up a bit also, as well as the slot it protrudes up through to engage the cylinder. Where the cylinder stop and trigger meet and connect thes areas can be polished. Although the hand is often pretty smooth on the sides that can also be addressed a bit as can the slot the hand fits through to engage the cylinder star. The star itself can be cleaned up a bit if need be. In rare cases a shim or two can help, especially with an older gun. The firing pin hole can be examined for smoothness also. These are all little things that contribute to slightly smoothing a piece of mass production that while nicely built can always benefit from a bit of careful hand work. Putting lighter hammer springs seems to be a fools errand except on a gun that is reliably set-up to shoot one kind of cartridge with a specific primer. In an Airweight J-frame anything that can be done to smooth, not lighten the trigger, can be of benefit. Yes, you can make greater gains with a full size steel revolver, but there is always room for improvement on a gun that is made with economies of scale in mind. As a side note I took a friend's Ruger SP101 aprt one time to see what the professional gunsmith did that cost 180.00. I showed my friend that the gunsmith put in a couple of shims that cost 5.00 and did absolutely nothing else. I don't think the shims were necessary. I figured 10 minute job at most. I understand overhead costs, experience and availability are worth some money, but gee, I thought it was a bit extreme.

an alternative is DIY with this video: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/262030/gun-video-trigger-job-complete-action-tuning-for-smith-and-wesson-revolvers-with-jerry-miculek-dvd Even if you don't do the job, watching this video will take the "magic" out of it. It ain't rocket science and can be done at the kitchen table with a screw driver and decent stone. Good screw drivers are helpful.

Lots of good suggestions here. I second Dolomite's suggestion for Tech Sights and VQ hammer. http://www.tech-sights.com/ruger3.htm http://www.midwayusa.com/product/163143/volquartsen-target-hammer-with-bushings-ruger-10-22 The VQ hammer hooks are safely cut at a different angle that drops the trigger pull to about 2.75lbs, pretty clean and crisp even on metal trigger housings. However, if you buy a Kidd trigger it and place it in a plastic Ruger trigger housing. WOW! http://www.coolguyguns.com/Ruger-1022-trigger-job-kit_p_95.html I don't know what the rules might be at Appleseed Shoots. You may want to verify what the minimum trigger pull is. An alternative sight would be get a .570 tall front sight and then a Williams aperture rear that fits on the receiver. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/527477/williams-wgrs-ru22-guide-receiver-peep-sight-set-ruger-10-22-with-front-sight-570m-1-16-gold-bead-aluminum-black Replace the stock Williams aperture sight (peep) with a Merit Adjustable Iris peep sight. The Merit unit allows to you to open or close down the sight picture so that you can go faster in low light or more accurate in good light. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/639658/merit-3-adjustable-target-aperture-11-16-diameter-long-shank-11-32-long-10-32-thread-fits-marbles-sights-black

Organizational Research and Systems Analyisis (ORSA)?

He isn't "hunting" by airplane in this state.

Interesting thread. I know a guy who is going to be shooting hogs from an airplane and he asked me what .308 I would use. I had no clue as I imagine rapid repeated followup shots would be necessary and didn't know the effects of barrel heat, etc would have on the rifle's performance. Any suggestions?

You have to order a MKII bushing to replace the space of the mag disconnnect. I'm sure the Sams bushing is a better replacement for the mag disconnect space but I haven't ever ordered one. http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284558 I've used the MKII bushing a bunch and it works well enough. If it were me I would get the VQ sear, VQ trigger and MK II bushing.

http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/46781-aftermarket-fixes-for-ruger-mk-22lr-pistol-triggers/page__hl__%2Bruger+%2Btrigger

I think the beauty of the Glock that it is a tool and has little collectability over the time it has been in the US. There are little niches i.e., generation, LEO markings, color, etc, but it is like collecting hammers - lots of them but they work as intended regardless of how old they are. The hammer I use everyday is probably over 50 years old. If I lost it no big deal, I'll get another. That is the way I look at Glocks.

As far as Brass in Face. If it were my Gen4 G34 I would try the following: 1. Get some Winchester NATO JSP 124 grain ammo. After owning a couple of 34s and a couple of 17Ls, regardless of the slide cutouts, anemic ammo can be a problem ejecting brass efficiently. 2. Get a Gen 3 recoil conversion fitting for the nose hole and obtain a guide rod you can change springs on. You can tune your springs to the ammo you are shooting quite rapidly. http://www.glockworx.com/Products.aspx?CAT=3694 3. You might try a Gen 3 ejector or simply get a Gen 3 trigger bar or Gen 3 trigger housing and swap back and forth as an experiment. http://www.rockyourglock.com/parts/GlockTriggerOEM.htm 4. If you like shooting the G34 now, you will enjoy it more with this: http://www.glockworx.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=156277&CAT=3688 or this: http://www.rockyourglock.com/parts/RYGTriggers.htm 5. Lastly, depending on your eyesight and age I like both thse products: 1) Novak Tactical Fiber Optic Front Sight http://www.novaksights.com/products/sights/models/glock.html or Dawson Precision Fiber Optic front sight: http://www.dawsonprecision.com/CategoryProductList.jsp?cat=SIGHTS+FRONT:Glock+Front+Sights I agree about the extended slide release. When you really get rocking on that thing I have inadverdantly have had early slide lock with the extended slide release that I don't get with the stock release.

Envy

Slpeod, I can't understand why someone would deviate from stock Glock? Don't you know that Glock is perfection from the factory. Then there is the lawyer argument, always the lawyers. If you ever use that thing you will be drawn and quartered even if you are in the right using such a modified "assassin's" gun. I'll bet that GAT is probably loaded with some kind of "killer" bullets too. Tch tch tch.... Shameful, modifying guns... then parading them around the internet.

As much as I like shooting the X-Five Tactical I almost enjoy more seeing the reaction of others who shoot this gun. I suppose the P210 and Sphinx may be like it or better. The other high end competiton Sig X-Five/SIx may be better. I can't really describe the X-Five other than smooth. I have two tweaked Glock 17L's, have had a few tweaked CZ 75/85s, nice shooting M9s, 3 nice 1911 9mms, including a DW Pointman 9 and a Springfield Loaded Target, none come close to the X-Five. Rather than spending the smack for a G10 grip right now I stippled the stock slabs last night. Unless it is Wheelgun Weds you will see Ole Craig wearing baggy shirts as I am going to carry the X-Five when I can - it ain't a little gun. I like my extreme modded G19 as a carry gun but I can put a round through the ear or eye with the X-Five, instead of just "in your face" with the G19. I need to find a favorite JHP for the X-Five.