graycrait

Forget the 10/22 experiment, I ordered two more aftermarket GM barrels today (28" and Running Boar). If I come up with something worthwhile to report I will.

GM has the 28" in stock. I am buying the GM 28" and a blue GM Running Boar. If you want to run a project I will send you 7 barrels to see what is what: 1) RT stock modded sporter 2) 1:11.25 .920 3) 1:9 standard taper threaded 4) GM Running Boar 5) GM 28" tapered 6) URS 29" sporter taper 7) Stock 18.5" All I need to know is if the 1:9 and 1:11.25 are worth keeping for 60 grain Aguila SSS Plus which of the four other barrels is the most reliable and accurate and most fun to shoot. Just swap them into whatever receiver/stock/scope you prefer. Want money for ammo? Craig

+1 gregintenn !!!!

Maybe it is simply the "new" bump on the trigger bar that supposedly keeps the nose of the trigger bar centered on the safety plunger. I had a Gen 4 19 for a short while but almost immediately changed out the trigger bar and the recoil spring system to Gen 3.

Compare long 10/22 barrels for accuracy from 25 to 200 yards: http://www.urbanriflesupply.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=92&Itemid=534 http://www.shootersdiscount.com/cart/barrels/10/22-green-mt-barrels/green-mt-28-blue-sporter-barrel.html I will furnish the 29" URS barrel and you buy the GM 28" sporter. When you are done I will buy the GM barrel from you at your price if you want to sell it. Then you can send both barrels back to me on my dime. I would do the comparison myself but I am very undisciplined. I sent an email to GM to see if the 28" blue sporter is in stock. No online retailer I have seen has it in stock. Craig in Clarksville

New York triggers. I know a couple of younger fellas who shoot well and like these. If you take the spring out the trigger does become something akin to a steady pressure revolver trigger all the way through to break. Glock or any gun aftermarket. Keep in mind that the gun companies design, produce, market and distribute these guns to make money. Unless the gun is some high end gun nearly any handgun can be tweaked through judicious use of aftermarket if available. Although if believed the profit margin on Glocks is quite high compared to other handguns in its class. However, for some reason aftermarket pops up on nearly any sub $700.00 handgun to some extent. For instance: Gallowy Precision and RTK have come up with some nice aftermarket improvements for Ruger, KelTec and I believe Taurus pistols. Apex has some nice stuff for S&W M&P, as well as S&W revolvers. In rifles Basix and Timiney immediately come to mind. So mass production does work or Marlin wouldn't have sold over 11,000,000 Model 60s. However even the Marlin 60 can benefit from aftermarket from DIP Products. I say if you like it stock fine, shoot the tar out of that thing, but if you like to tweak a little more performance, accuracy, comfort out of a mass production piece I say go ahead and shoot the tar out of that thing. My Sig X-Five is stock, but my Glocks, LC9 and Keltec are not.

My must haves: 1) .25 trigger job 2) 6lb rather than stock 5lb trigger spring 3) Shave some material off the trigger safety so that it goes flush when the trigger is pulled 4) 3.5lb Ghost connector 5) Radius the area where the trigger guard meets the grip Nice to haves: 6) Novak fiber optic front sight 7) Steel OEM Glock rear sight 8) Stipple job/grip reduction 9) Fulcrum trigger 10) extra reduced power recoil springs and an uncaptured guide rod to get better extraction when shooting anemic range ammo

http://www.ammoland.com/2012/06/12/smith-wesson-team-member-trevor-baucom-profile-to-air-on-outdoor-channel/#axzz29tGKRkny http://www.uromed.com/blog/2012/08/21/paraplegic-trevor-baucoms-involvement-with-team-smith-wesson/ Yesterday I changed out an S&W M&P extractor for Trevor. I also told him about another competitive wheel chair athlete who likes to shoot. Trevor needs a place to practice for steel challenge. I hope I can get a couple of guys who don't know each other - yet - hooked up. Craig in Clarksville, TN

+1 East_TN_Patriot's post

http://www.ar15performance.com/inc/sdetail/1679/6604 6.8 AR, I think I will wait for this barrel to be available and then put an upper together. Craig

I copied this from another site. Ferritic Nitrocarburized finish; Commonly referred to as TeniferTM (Glock), or MeloniteTM (Springfield Armory, and others), I believe I've also sometimes heard it called "Hard Bluing". For those not familiar with the process, it is a salt bath nitride process which hardens the barrel, inside and out, to a Rockwell harness in the range of up to 70RHC+ (harder than chrome)! I see CMMG has a WASP (CMMGs version of Melonite) 16" heavy barrel. Seems to me that the FN treatment is what I want. I am not looking for national match but I would like to hit about 1 MOA. I would like to see some 20" barrels with Ferritic Nitrocraburizing. Any suggestions?

tymekeeper, Keep slugging away, but keep rimfirecentral.com in mind. I think someone there will eventually be able to help you. Craig in Clarksville

I have only had 3 ARs, none were or are particularly inspiring. I shot a TGO'ers pre-Freedom Group Bushmaster 20" heavy barrel A2 today. I liked shooting it better then any other I have had in my hands and I get to shoot a few, but generally would rather not. (I'm retired military but retired before M4). I don't want to spend 2 or 3 grand on a AR. Howevever I would like to get an AR that is a shooter with a scope, so I can have some fun at 2-400 meters. Realizing that ARs are tinker toys (modular) I wonder what barrel you experts think might give me a real kick at 400 meters with a scope. That is realising that the system is put together right with a good trigger and scope. Suggestions for a heavy barrel? Craig in Clarksville

Just wanted to let you know about this: http://www.coolguyguns.com/Ruger-1022-trigger-job-kit_p_95.html I have been fiddle farting around with 10/22s for some time. That trigger kit is the best cost effective product for 10/22s ever. It is made for the new polymer housings as Tony Kidd says the polymer housings have tighter repeatable specs than the metal housings. I have 3 of these kits in 5 of my 10/22s. I have paid upwards to 275.00 for a 10/22 trigger housing complete and this Kidd kit in a polymer housing is better. This is another 10/22 product I am messing around with: http://capitalistarms.com/OptimalTwistSSS.html This barrel is made for the Aguila SSS 60 grain subsonic. However, it shoots standard size .22lr with good accuracy too. I also am happy with Urban Rifle Supply's 29" sporter taper 10/22 barrel. http://www.urbanriflesupply.com/index.php?option=com_youtubegallery&view=youtubegallery&Itemid=584&galleryid=1&videoid=vTQSvT9JSvg I typically like to shoot this using bulk ammo at 175 yrds. I use the URS 29" barrel and the 1:11.25 twist Capitalist Arms barrels in these stocks: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/217060/promag-archangel-deluxe-target-rifle-stock-system-ruger-10-22-sythetic-black This is the best for the money 10/22 stock I have ever seen, and I have had a bunch. For the money the best rimfire scope I have come across is this: http://www.nikonhunting.com/products/riflescopes/p-22/2-7x32_Nikoplex/8498 Lastly if you don't have one of these 10/22 receivers you are missing out: http://primaryweapons.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=266 This receiver allows you to ring out real accuracy from the many 10/22 aftermarket barrels out there. With a threaded 10/22 barrel it is a real joy. However, I like it with my non-threaded long barrel. I can hit a gnats butt at a long ways Pictured is a pair of 10/22s. Both sport Promag Archangel Target,Nikon P22 Nikoplex 2-7x32 rimfire scopes and Kidd trigger kits in OEM Ruger trigger housing. Top has PWS T3 Summit Toggle Receiver, URS 29" barrel. It is a joy to shoot off the bag or offhand, balance is suprisingly superb. Bottom is a threaded Capitalist Arms 1:11.25 twist barrel that although hefty slings 60grain SSS well and surprisingly throws standard weight rounds down range nicely also. Another cool thing about this 10/22 is that the bolt was redone by our own Dolomite Supafly. Thanks Dolomite! I have two barrels that I am swapping back and forth on this 10/22, the 1:11.25 and a standard 1:16 twist sporter that has been rechambered by Rimfire Technologies. The jury is still out but I am leaning on making the 1:11.25 twist the permament partner to Dolomite's bolt.

gomer. Of all the 10/22 clones out there I would like to have the Magnum Research rifle the most. I have 5 10/22s right now, and have had quite a few more. However if semi-auto isn't a requirement, just good shooting, then it is hard to beat a CZ bolt gun for the money. I like bolt guns but it is hard to beat chasing a target with a semi. Probably the best bang for your buck these days in semi auto .22 is the S&W M&P .22 - looks like an AR, has 25 round mags and you can hang most if not all AR optics, lights and gadgets from its rails. I have never heard a bad word about the S&W. I have cussed my .22 projects with gusto from time to time. For pure fun it was hard to beat the gun on the bottom in the following photo. It ran like a champ, had a Green Mountain Running Boar barrel with a C-More reflex. You could make a golf ball literally run with that rig. Why I traded it I have no good excuse. Sure wish I had that C-More back.

I would try out the Aguila 60 grain SSS ammo and see what you think. The slower heavier bullet is much more penetration than the lighter fast one.

Bottom line is unless you have a 1:12 twist barrel at this altitude the 60 grainer out of your typical 1:16 twist barrel is iffy at best. I was reading that at 70 degrees at 6,000 ft the 60 grainer is more stable out of the 1:16 twist barrel. Some of my 1:16 twist rifles shoot the 60 grainers more accurately longer than others. I'll have to look at how stable the 60 grainer is at different distances out of 1:16 barrels that seem to shoot it OK. I don't think the 60 grainer can hurt a semi-auto due to its combination of heavy and slow 950fps. I've shot it in many semis with no ill effect.

Gomer, Take Broomhead up on his offer. Like in most things it is often cheaper and faster having a guide to lead you through the basics of nearly any endeavor so that you don't reinvent the wheel over and over. However, take it from a guy who has spent stupid money on 10/22s (and in some cases really stupid). If you want a really nice "low" cost yet accurate 10/22 without simply have the bolt and stock barrel "redone" by Que, Nemohunter or Randy at CPC I suggest the following: 1) Get a newer 10/22 used or new, the one with the Polymer housing 225.00 or thereabouts. Without doing anything you will have a fine plinker quite capable of minute of squirrel head at 50 yards. Either mod the stock or buy a auto bolt release for about 11.00. This will allow you to better manage your bolt lock back and release, especially at a range that has periodic times when you need to lock the bolt back, but you don't like a fiddly mechanism when you want the bolt to go forward. So far 236.00 http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30867 2) Get a Kidd trigger kit for 89.00 which you install in your polymer trigger housing. This will give you a great trigger which will make you want a decent scope. I recommend the Nikon P22 Nikoplex 2-7x32, another 180.00. Now you should be able to shoot pretty well at 200 yards. Up to 505.00. http://www.coolguygu...b-kit_p_95.html http://www.lg-outdoo...s.asp?cat=13939 3) Next get a Green Mountain Running Boar barrel for about 120.00. This barrel will improve your accuracy, is heavy enough to make off the bag shooting more fun and allows you to shoot pretty well off-hand. This barrel provides better balance in my mind than having a bull .920 barrel. You can use this barrel in your OEM Ruger carbine stock. Up to 625.00. http://www.rimfiresp...Category_Code=B 4) Lastly (for now) I would get a Hogue Overmolded stock for about 75.00. Make sure you get the right stock for your barrel. If you have a Running Boar barrel you can use the stock that mounts a standard taper carbine barrel. Total: 700.00 So now you have 670.00 bucks in your 10/22. Is it worth it? You could spend the same amount of money and simply buy a decent "10/22" like this one: http://www.magnumres...olded-Rifle.asp especially if you want a nice light weight 10/22. Remember you can spend a lot of money on an aftermarket barrel but if you don't have it properly bedded in a good stock, with tuned bolt and good trigger using expensive ammo you won't realize the accuracy your expensive barrel is capable of. Also the chamber will be tighter and your reliability might be tied to keeping the chamber cleaner than "normal." So what I am saying is if you are going to buy a 3-400.00 barrel then you may as well resign yourself to spending small fortune on the rest of the rifle, probably nearly 1500.00 or more. If you are going to do that you might want to look at this: http://www.coolguygu...ifles_c_22.html or this https://www.volquart...rearms,16-22-lr Lastly, if you get your stock bolt redone (a neccesity if you want real accuracy), get your stock barrel set-back and rechambered and get a good trigger kit from Kidd, use your Ruger stock (which is a pretty decent stock), and get a decent economy scope like a .22 Mag or similar you can still have a very very accurate rifle that looks stock but is way better. These are commonly called "Stealth Sporters." https://sites.google...site/quesplace/ http://www.ct-precis...ruger10-22.html

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=9

Brain cramp, need more sleep.

I put a Galloway Precision modded trigger bar in my LC9 - huge improvement. I wonder if any of you have put a RTK trigger in a Ruger already modded with the Galloway trigger bar and hammer for the LC9? http://rtk-holsters.com/index.html

Tercel89, I like the Bobcat also. I have one, and had a Taurus clone but it blew apart. I also had a Taurus PLY 22, one of the polymer Bobcat clones by Taurus but it now belongs to my 87 yr old shooting buddy. The main difference between the Bobcat and the Taurus PT 22 or Taurus PLY 22 is that the Beretta can be fired faster I think. The PLY 22 is a nice pistol with a fuller grip. I wish Beretta still made the high gloss blue ones with Walnut grips like mine. Also, shoot 60 grain SSS like Dolomite does in his PLY 22. When shot out of Beretta or Taurus tip up they feel like a "thawumph!!!!!!!!!!"

Having polished a few guns for no really good reason except for one I recommend that you start at 2000 grit and see what happens. The 638 is not worth that much used that someone would want to spend much time polishing aluminum unless you want to pay big money for a gun that does not warrant it. I would do it yourself or just use it the way it is. If you got it at a great price just because it was ugly congratulations, because it will work well ugly or not. But I suspect you are talking a 225.00 gun at best so why spend more money? Enjoy a good deal and carry it with impunity.

tymekeeper, Do you mean that you have some CCI .22 WRF ammo? Wow! I started looking for Remington 12CS's and found quite a few ads for sale for some pretty hefty prices. I have over 900 firearm operator's manuals and over 30 gunsmith manuals but no parts diagram or takedown and repair for a 12CS or any 12 series. There is a diagram of a 12 on Numrich, but I wonder if there was much difference between the base 12 and the 12CS other than chamber length and some other feed length changes. http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Products.aspx?catid=4250 http://shootingwithhobie.blogspot.com/2009/10/remington-model-12cs.html Does yours still have the tang rear sight? Craig in Clarksville

The idea of modding my self defense guns doesn't faze me one bit. I don't hang where criminals generally hang out, I am not an assassin and if I have to use a gun to defend myself that means that I have been lucky enough to be awakened out of my quiet slow reacting civilian stupor by some evil doer who likely already has "the drop" on me at least in intent if not then with a tool that will lead to my destruction. IF! I am lucky enough to bring another tool to bear to save my bacon in my disadvantaged position the least of my worries is if the tool (gun) I have has a smoother trigger than factory will not bother me one wit. If having a s....y gun is a better defense than having a good one in a life or death situation then I will take my chances with the gun with the smoother trigger even if that trigger has been made smooth by me. If I accidentally shoot an innocent then the smoother trigger becomes an issue I suppose. I could argue that a factory Ruger/Glock/Sprinfield/S&W trigger is much smoother than one of the factory triggers made by HiPoint, Charter, Jimenez, etc. So then smooth doesn't do the killing, it is other "stuff" like intent, opportunity, means, etc.