graycrait

RWF, what is the prognosis for recovery? Is there something we here on TGO can do. I am up in Clarksville and am always looking for a project to tinker with. I used to do work with a fellow down in McEwen who owns IDF, been there many times. Also know some other "wounded" warriors who like to shoot so maybe there are some options you can look at to speed your shooting recovery or at least give you some diversions as you rehab. My issue was minor compared to yours but when I got my hand operated on I began looking at shooting in a whole new light and have tossed many conventional ideas out the window. If you feel like it pm me sometime at [email="ch8156@gmail.com"]ch8156@gmail.com[/email]

As far as I know Ruger's new receivers are still made of aluminum. It is the trigger housings that are now made of plastic. In fact I'll trade two metal trigger housings for anyone who would like to trade their two plastic trigger housings. Tony Kidd himself has said that the OEM plastic trigger housings are more consistently spec'd than the metal OEM ones. I have 3 plastic OEM Ruger plastic trigger housings that I have installed 89.00 trigger kits in and they all break the same about 2.5lbs - they are consistent. [url="http://www.coolguyguns.com/Ruger-1022-trigger-job-kit_p_95.html"]http://www.coolguygu...b-kit_p_95.html[/url] I can do my own trigger but as I am using a stone, although with a jig, mine are not consistent, but they are serviceable in my experimental 10/22s. I even paid 275.00 for an aftermarket trigger group one time. The Kidd kits in the polymer housings are better than that expensive one. If you are lucky you can occasionally get a new OEM complete trigger group on Brownells for about 40.00, add the 89.00 Kidd kit and you have a really nice consistent trigger. If you want more accuracy you need to have a good chamber and well done bolt. You can get bolts "tightened" up by a couple of good guys online or you can buy a Kidd bolt. Then you need to play with all the other variables like receiver to housing fit, chamber matched to ammo, stock to action fit, barrel harmonics, and it goes on and on.

JeffsSig, Boring .22s really get fun when you start adding speed and distance. Take a look at this page. Remember that these targets were chosen to run guns in the 400.00 and under class, but you can expect that the optics were pretty decent also. I want to find a scope that the entire reticle is mildot. Subsonic ammo at 300 yards drops a looooonnnngggg way. The entire website has good shooting info, not only for plinkers like me, but for serious shooters. [url="http://www.6mmbr.com/rimfiretactical.html"]http://www.6mmbr.com/rimfiretactical.html[/url]

JeffsSig, Did you do the trigger yourself from stock parts or did you use a kit or aftermarket parts? Have you had the bolt radiused, face squared and headspace tightened up? If so by who? I surely do like these "Lego" .22s called 10/22s. I've tried several wood stocks but never found one that I liked enough to keep it, hope you enjoy yours. I did have one wood stock that I took my Foredom (Flex shaft rotary tool) to to get a better feel in the thumbhole area. Now the fun is to find ammo that is easy on the pocket book while providing reliability with accuracy. Craig

If you ever wondered if taking a hack saw to cutting a barrel and a drill with a brass screw to crown would actually work, I can report it really does. That little Savage that FIST fixed shoots straight - I saw it and shot it today.

[IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab181/graycrait/CraigGlockStuff.jpg[/IMG]

[img]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab181/graycrait/GlockPredatorRedux2.jpg[/img] [IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab181/graycrait/CrewServedGlock.jpg[/IMG]

Even while in the Army I couldn't do aimed fire in the dark, much less in the D3cubed scenario of: Dark, 3 shots, 3 seconds, less than 3 meters. As far as I am concerned my weapons light on my house gun is my night sight and laser. The main beam of the weapon lights I have allow me to shoot a target without shaking that is about dinner plate plus at 22ft, the longest shot in my small house. I can ID the target also. The Glocks that I run as SYA guns all have bright fiber optics on them so I can throw the dot on a target in daylight. I don't plan on using the sights on my SYA guns much at the distances I expect to shoot such a gun at. However, if I were LEO and had the ability to open carry with a service sized weapon I would be carrying a gun with a light and night sights. Having said that if I had the option of carrying a pocket pistol with good small light that worked and fit with my pocket pistol I would use one. Trying to get a bead on a laser or night sight at speed in a fast close quarters situation is currently beyond my skill set. Girl at Krogers last nite checking my ID said I was exactly 1 year older than her granny. I am not only getting slower but ...

The 10/22 in the middle is made up of: Green Mountain Running Boar Barrel Tactical Machining receiver Ruger polymer trigger housing with Kidd kit Tapco stock Millet 3 MOA red dot CAA light laser vertical bipod foregrip [IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab181/graycrait/More1022.jpg[/IMG]

Essentially all .22 LR uses up the powder charge in 16". The real issue of a long barrel if you recall the old school remingtons and others that used to be 24 or 26" is that when shooting subsonics you have to accept the fact of inconsistent ammo. Long barrels slow the bullet more allegedly eliminating the possibility of a bullet leaving the barrel at supersonic speed with the accompanying shock wave. Me? I don't get all that yet and may never. I suspect that this new match .22LR ammo that costs more for 50 rounds than a box of 9mm may solve some of those inconsistencies. I like buying a bucket of Goldens. I am not a BR, Biathlete or Olympic shooter. I like nice feeling guns. As unweildy as they look the long barrels in those stocks settle really comfortably in the support hand with nice balance. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't done it. I don't know anyone else who has mated these long tapered barrels to the Archangel's before but they feel great and those who have handled them concur. The last critter I killed was a scolding squirrel at about 15 yards with a snap shot through the neck using a 1956 Winchester 62A and 20 grain Super Colibras. On the other hand I have some luck in shooting clay pigeons at 175 yards with the long barrels as long as the wind cooperates. As a former squirrel hunter I know I would be taking one of the long barrels with me just to make shooting without ear plugs a little more enjoyable. If you shot a 710fps 40 grain CCI Quiet through that long barrel you will really understand how quiet then can be. In the semi they have to be manually cycled, as they also have to be in the toggle lever long barrel. In practical terms I wonder if fellow squirrels would return to normal patterns faster if a hunter used subsonics and a long barrelled rifle after plugging one of the bushy tails.

Top two guns have: Nikon Nikoplex P22 2-7 scopes, Archangel Target stocks, Ruger polymer trigger housings with Kidd trigger kits. Top one has PWS T3 toggerl receiver and URS 29" barrel. Middle one has Ruger semi-auto receiver, Dolomite Supafly bolt and Green Mountain 28" barrel Bottom is for reference size only with 16" stock barrel threaded by 5th SFT sniper instructor at FT Campbell. The long guns are well-balanced for off-hand shooting but fun on the bags too. Now I have to find which ammo each likes and do some real accuracy tests. Additionally I have to figure out where if any pressure points are needed 'cause I think those barrels are going to have some harmonics that may need to be controlled if possible. [IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab181/graycrait/Long1022s.jpg[/IMG]

I know a shop that gives active, reserve, retired military, active teachers, local university students, fire fighters and LEO (retired with creds) discounts.

[sub][url="http://www.goldenloki.com/gunsmith.htm"]http://www.goldenloki.com/gunsmith.htm[/url][/sub] [sub]This site has all you need to get your Ketec running smoothe besides the already mentioned KTOG. However, I much prefer the hardchromed slides and barrels on Keltecs as they need little of this prep, and are easier in my mind to clean.[/sub]

Interesting range time with the LCP with the Galloway Precision trigger bar and hammer mods, as well as the RTK trigger. I had installed the heavier dual 15lb recoils spring, not 20lb like I erroneously posted earlier. I loaded the LC9 with 115 Std Velocity Critical Defense. The gun handled nearly like a short barrelled K-frame shooting 38 special. It was really cool and I had FIST shoot it too. I shot a bunch of varied 115 FMJ ammo too, what a pleasant small gun to shoot with nice trigger control. Now the bad news. I was so stoked with the mods on the LC9 I loaded it with what I like to carry in my Glocks or Sig, CorBon 115+P JHPs. Crap.....! After 3 or 4 shots the trigger wouldn't reset. That ended a lot of premature joy. Took the gun home and dismantled it thinking the high octane Corbons may have broke something. The trigger bar spring had slipped under the trigger bar, which was a quick fix. Why though did it slip? The only thing I can figure out is that the Corbon caused the frame to flex so much that the trigger bar spring was allowed enough room to slide beneath the bar as the bar does not have a groove for the spring to ride in but is sandwiched between the frame and the chassis sliding along the trigger bar. Nothing that was done to the gun as a mod failed. I now need to run a couple of hundred rounds through the thing using std velocity loads to prove to me that the gun will work as a SYA gun for me or my wife. I'll reserve the +P Corbons to more substantial pistols.

I've had two PF9s, each worked great. Tremendous recoil and muzzle flip. They would as another poster mentioned, "Beat the crap out of my finger." I got one about 18 months after I had gotten rid of my first one thinking they may I may not have given myself more time to grow accustomed to the nice sized save yo a... pistol I call them the The Lil Dragon. Only guns I have shot that were worse in recoil and muzzle flip is my DB9 and a titanium "j-frame sized" Taurus .357 I had for a time. The only reasons I keep the DB is:(1) it is reliable 2) It looks like a Glock 3) It doesn't beat the crap out of my trigger finger 4) No one I know will buy it from me. I so enjoyed to load that little titanium .357 with 158 grain magnums and stick it in the paw of other mall ninjas who tend to talk more than they shoot. I never once had a fella say to me "load that thing up again, that sure was fun." The DB9 is nearly the same with standard velocity 115 grain ammo as that little magnum was with magnum ammo. I do have to say that I tend to shoot the pocket guns with one hand at a fairly brisk pace rationalizing that I probably will run out of time/blood/consciousness/life if I have to get in a strong side two-handed modified Weaver stance to shoot a SYA pistol. I just couldn't develop any confidence shooting the PF9 they way I wanted to use it due to the trigger finger beating I got shooting that gun. P.S. like an earlier poster mentioned, only dry fire the PF9 with snap caps.

The FEG is a very nice clone. I had one some years ago and used it to practice BHP trigger jobs. I thought the bluing was outstanding compared to what passed for bluing out of the current US mass production pistols at the time. It all depends on the Keltec. The P11 has an 11lb trigger, the PF9 has as much recoil and muzzle flip as any lightweight j-frame .357. I would go for the FEG.

Attached is a photo of my wife's Ruger LC9. Of course there are modifications I installed: 1) Hogue Jr handall with finger hump ground down. 2) RTK trigger with pre and overtravel adjustments which allows you to adjust from outside the trigger without disassembly each time to adjust. 3) Galloway Precision trigger bar and hammer work 4) 20lb recoil spring set [url="http://gallowayprecision.com/ruger-performance/lc9-performance-parts/"][color="#1155cc"]http://gallowayprecision.com/ruger-performance/lc9-performance-parts/[/color][/url] The trigger is now a short crisp 5.5lbs. Range test tomorrow. [IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab181/graycrait/LC9RTKGP.jpg[/IMG]

617 also but if you run across a nice older 17 or an 18 they are nice too. Another nice .22LR revolver is a an older H&R Sportsman 999, try for early 70s to the late '30s. Between the other two I would opt for the Single Ten over the SP101.

Just to check it out alongside the Galloway Precision Trigger bar and hammer work I already have installed in my LC9 I ordered the RTK trigger (black one) to see how well the trigger can be tuned. tp://gallowayprecision.com/ruger-performance/lc9-performance-parts/ I also ordered the 20lb spring kit to see how that might help muzzle flip. I also added a Hogue Jr. over grip and ground down the finger hump. Right now it is a nice size flat OWB carry pistol. In the Tagua slide holster it is much more thin feeling than a Glock 26, plus the LC9 has a thumb safety (for what that is worth) as well as a prominent but not obtrusive LCI. If the RTK trigger improves the already nice Galloway Precision trigger bar and hammer work then I may dub the "Harringtonized" Ruger LC9 with laser one of the best everyman's 'save yo ass' 9mm pistols. I still think the S&W M&P Shield may be the everyman's carry gun to beat but it looks like it will be several years before S&W meets the demand for their nice little single stack 9mm.

I would like to shoot one of these but didn't CZ already do this and probably better?

So lets say that you want to sell gun oil as a sideline to your motor oil product. Roughly a 55gal of motor oil can be had for 700.00, but you can get cheaper as quantity goes up. but let's just say 55 gal for 700. You throw a little of this and that which may add 100.00 to the "secret" oil formula. Then you have to package and market it. Let's say you sell it in 2oz bottles, then that over 55 gal now with some secret additives gives you 3500 bottles of oil. Then at $5.00 bucks per 2 oz you make a tidy profit by calling your relatively generic lube "GUN LUBE." I may be cynical but somehow I doubt anyone is sitting in some lab working for years concocting gun lube to be sold in small quantities. I suspect what works for one product probably works for similar products with a minor twist to make it look good to the gun buying public.

For about 220.00 you get a 9mm and .357 Sig Lone Wolf conversion barrels for your G35. You can do the same thing with a G23. You may have to get a 9mm mag in some cases maybe a 9mm ejector.

If I could stuff Glock innards into an M&P frame and slide I would be a happy man. Because I can't stuff Glock guts into the M&P I deal with the Glock ergos with grinder, dremel, Devcon 290 and wood burning pen. If you don't mind the extra "fiddley" internals of the M&P then go for it. M&Ps have more parts than Glocks and the M&P is not quite as easy to take completely down. The M&P requires a roll pin punch and hammer. If you take the rear sight of the M&P off make sure you don't lose the disk and spring underneath it. Replace the disk concave side down. In the frame the sear plunger and spring are kind of small and may require a tweezer to remove/replace. For Pete's Sake if you have a ambi safety on a M&P and you take the gun apart watch for the tiny spring that is part of that apparatus inside. The two guns are toss ups in my view as a save your butt gun. Most owners can eventually detail strip their own Glock, just as those GIs used to do with their own 1911s. The M&P just needs more time, tools and care when detail stripping than either the Glock or 1911.

[url="http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html"]http://www.grantcunn...ricants101.html[/url] If you need more than this I'm not sure who could be more comprehensive. Talking to an old friend in Army Ordnance and his CW4 who has been a weapons guy nearly his whole career, well, they preach CLP. Most guys I know over clean their guns (at least compared to me) and I don't have so many that shear numbers prevent me from seeing all of them every couple of weeks. Therefore I think some lube is better than none, less lube is generally better than more lube. I like to apply oil with needle oilers so that I con't get gobs of it down an action. I do like Frog Lube on my .22LR bolts, receiver innards and even on the breech face. Cleanup is a snap and Frog Lube by itself is non-Toxic. I totally agree with Dolomite. I had the opportunity to chat wiht Mobile petroleum product engineers one time and spent some time learning about lubes from an old patent agent who for many years was a hydraulic systems engineer. Then there is this. Between Cunningham and Harris they probably have most of it covered: [url="http://home.comcast.net/~dsmjd/tux/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm"]http://home.comcast....ech/eds_red.htm[/url]

My DB9 is 100%. It is right snappy but I think it is a solid Save Yo A. pistol. Many self-proclaimed "shooters" probably can't handle the DB9 due to its light weight, fearsome muzzle flip, recoil and more talk than than actualy training/practice. The DB9 is not a gun for limp wristers, or old folk who have arthritis or other "challenged" shooters. However the DB9 may be the thinnest lightest 9mm carry gun out there that actually works.