graycrait

I wonder how many of the hoarder/speculators are gun enthusiasts?  I suspect most are. What they are doing is cutting off their nose to spite their face as they are helping to ensure that when supply does meet demand that the wholesale prices will reflect that demand, however it was created.  Short term profits must be more important to these folks than the long term health of the shooting sports.  Just think of how many kids will not be shooting or getting into shooting during this "shortage."  Heck, adults with no ammo will go on to other activities, I know I have.  Fewer and fewer shooters will have a significant political impact further downstream.  Just when the shrinking numbers of shooters become more and more politically isolated we have our "profiteers" creating divisions among shooters just when it is even more important to have unity.    Relying solely on the NRA to preserve shooting "rights" will likely prove ineffective over the increasing political power of urban population/political centers.  It is a pity that shooters can't unite, instead of screaming and ranting, show responsibility, a concern for the environment, thoughtfulness and how shooting can be fun, educational and sometimes necessary. 

without ammo a .22 pistol would generally be more useless than a sharp stick and harsh words.

Over the years I have tried different ones but mainly used Accu Risers, but recently got a couple of Beartooth Risers and I really like them, even more so when I got them for a discount through Brownells.  http://www.beartooth-products.com/shop/vmchk/comb-raising-kits.html

I have a Wheeler set, Grace screwdrivers, A Brownells torque driver and a Wiha torque driver.  The Brownells torque driver sits in the box, while I use the Wheeler, Grace and Wiha every day.  I have a Chapman set I have had for years, but the little flat blades broke off quick on that set and I never saw where you could buy replacements individually.  The Chapman deluxe is handy for the range. I have had a couple of the Brownells driver sets that they market for specific guns like S&W KFrames and they work pretty good.

I have never had a CZ 452/453 that wouldn't shoot. I doubt seriously it is the crown on the rifle. If scoped check your bases, rings and scope, Try different ammo, how does it group at 25, Any info would be helpful.   I have had 3 CZ 452s.  They all shot well.  It is possible it needs a crown but I agree with the person who posted the above.  

I have had 3 Star BMs and 1 Star BKM.  If you get one you must contact http://www.gun-parts.com/star/  and get an extra firing pin.  These guys may also have newly made (better steel and temper) firing pins:  http://www.jackfirstgun.com/   I believe Jack First had contracted with somone to make a run of modern firing pins.  For some reason my lighter alloy framed BKM was easier to shoot well than the all steel BM.  The other thing to watch for is the safety.  This part was not Star's strong suit in both the BKM or BM.  If carry locked and cocked make darn sure you have a good holster that covers the trigger as these guns do not have a grip safety like a 1911 and the way the safety is made, it may bump off when wearing the gun.When I went to the range and if I shot a Glock first I always shot the Stars low, but if I started with the Star's it was fine. Kind of strange.  They are easy to take a apart and really easy to remove the mag safety for a better trigger.  I gave my last one away to a young fella who needed a decent self defense gun.  Unless it is mint I would never pay more than 300.00 for a Star BM or BKM and would prefer to stay south of 250.  They are a decent novelty pistol that works pretty well, but it ain't a Glock or can't compare with any of the more modern 9mm pistols. 

don't buy a 700 dollar Ruger MKIII

If it is his first handgun maybe he should get a .22 and shoot 10-20K through it - if we can eventually get ammo.  Lots of folks talk a game but it takes lots of rounds downrange to be able to use a handgun like you use your knife and fork.  Most folks don't have enough money to shoot centerfire enough to become really proficient. Then there is the shooting venue and restrictions.  Some places won't let you shoot off your back, etc.       I don't think it matters if the .22 is a replica of the centerfire to be owned.  Lots of trigger time, having fun with some disciplined time.  Once in a while I go shooting with a couple of retired LEO.  One can shoots the pimples off a gnats .... with a handgun, the other one not so much.  However, the one with a bit less accuracy can shuck that hogleg and send rounds downrange 5X faster than the "bullseye" specialist in a relatively tight pattern center mass.   They always kid with each other.  Good thing all three of us avoid places and people who are apt to require lethal force.  We ain't getting faster as we get older.   

http://goldenloki.com/gunsmith/keltec/fullrp.htm   http://gallowayprecision.com/kel-tec-performance/pf9-and-p11-performance-parts/

I say not do it in a gun shop because it is not your pistol and is considered by most folks as simply bad manners.  Apparently several 1911 manuals mention it and from what I read Springfield and Nighthawk specifically.  I have over 900 firearm operator's manuals but am not gonna look. But because the OP's question has been raised so many times on so many forums I did a review.  Seems to be primarily a 1911 style firearm issue.  Then as a previous poster said, you wear the slide lock if nothing else, unless you are slingshotting the slide.  I would also think there might be an issue with wear marks on the barrel and barrel hood.  Most folks like to put those marks on a gun they buy new themselves.    This is what HIlton Yam says:    http://www.10-8performance.com/pages/1911-User's-Guide.html Weapon handling protocol: Always ease the slide down on an empty chamber, never slam it shut from slide lock. A G.I. rack grade 1911 may do fine when you slam the slide on the empty chamber, but a gun with a tuned trigger and fitted barrel will do better without it. The jarring of the slide slamming down on an empty chamber can cause the hammer to follow and the sear nose to crash into the hammer hooks. Your trigger job will last longer if you ease the slide down. Further, the lower lugs on a match fit barrel take a lot of impact when they contact the slide stop, and without the buffering effect of the round feeding into the chamber, you increase wear on your barrel by slamming the slide on an empty chamber. It's not the end of the world if the slide drops on an empty chamber, but it's not a good habit to develop either. It is the sign of an amateur 1911 handler.

Many of us simply don't trust "government" with that kind of power but at the same time, somebody has to do it and power can corrupt anyone. It's the proverbial rock and a hard place.   Well said.

I gave away over a 1200 rds in the last couple of weeks to several of fellas, I had no idea I that I was throwing away 300 bucks, don't tell the wife...shhhhhhh..... 

I was up to Whittakers a week or so ago and they were selling bricks of 525 Win 36grn for 30/brick, if my math is right a shade under 6 cents a round. But right here on TGO I see that bulk .22LR is going for .28/rd.  Looks like times are bad in TN.

http://www.1022racerifle.com/images/category/0/catm-stocks.jpg

Looks like their motto must be:  If you are gonna overcharge, then really overcharge!  

http://alamoammo.com/rifle-ammo/22-long-rifle/22-lr-winchester-36-gr-lead-hp-500-rnds-m-id-xpert22-upc-020892101272

http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=43435.0   Looks like: remove disconnector, install SA trigger, remove firing pin block, install CGW race hammer and adjustable sear. approx 160.00 in parts minus springs and pin(s)   http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=48998.0 To get the absolute BEST SA trigger: Remove the disconnector from the hammer Install a SA trigger with pre and over travel adjustment (I prefer the CZCustom Flat Aluminum trigger) Remove the firing pin block from the slide Install a CZ Custom Competition Hammer or the new CGW Race Hammer  And finally, do one of these four things: 1. Grind down the firing pin block lifter in the sear cage 2. Replace the firing pin block lifter with bushing made by CZCustom 3. Install an 85 Combat sear 4. Install a CGW adjustable sear These parts combined with a little polishing, and you won't even think you're shooting the same gun.  Total investment: $125 or so and up, depending on options.

The two 75s I had years ago were moderately hard to tear apart because mainly of old design and pins that had to be hammered apart.  However, it wasn't difficult.  I replaced the recurve trigger shoes with 85 trigger shoes which were less extreme.  It is just been a long while since I tore one apart and a friend who has a 75 wants me to convert it so I am checking on it.  Cajun Gun Works has parts with an adjustable sear. They even have a short reset kit.

Has anyone physically done this themselves and just what does it take?  From reading forums it appears that most any CZ non-decocker model can easily be converted to SA, but to enjoy the advantages a new trigger, hammer and sear may be necessary.  Anyone? 

Depends on your goals the Beretta Bobcot will do the job.  However, if you don't mind just a bit more size the Taurus PLY22 works nicely.  I don't recommend the Taurus PT22 which is the clone of the Beretta Bobcat.  If you have serious money and like revolvers both the S&W 317 and 43C are great .22LR S&W Airweights.  Other than that the Ruger LCR is nice enough but I don't like the action in fast shooting compared to the S&W 317 & 43c.  From personal experience I think the Bersa 9mm and ..45 are great, but the .380s not quite up to par with the big boys.  I have to think the .22 version has to be more like the .380 than the 9 or the .45.  If it has to be a small .22 that is affordable and reliable I would go Taurus PLY22 first, and a little more pocket friendly is the Beretta Bobcat.  No. 3 would be the 43C and No. 4 would be the 317 but these guns cost more money than really makes sense.  Avoid the Rohms and the RGs.  Cheapest but works is likely some smaller H&Rs, but no longer produced.  Nest up in size is the potmetal Walther P22 which works pretty nice and then the Ruger SR22 if you can find one.  IMHO avoid the Sig Mosquito (too big and poor action) like the plague, which is another pot metal gun that has one of the poorest DA triggers in gundom.

Marlin, Winchester and Ruger all made lever magnums at one time. None do now.  I think Henry still does if Henry gets back into production with outstanding orders (factory had hurricane Sandy issues). I believe Remington still does make the 597 in .22WMR, but don't know for sure.  Both Volquartsen and Magnum Research make 1022-like .22WMR semi-autos I believe.  Brno used to make a nice semi auto in .22WMR but no more.  That leaves the bolt guns.  Probably would make sense just to get current production or almost any year of Marlin bolt .22 mag.  Mossberg used to make one you see for sale once in a while called the "Chuckster."  .22WMR accuracy isn't the same as .22LR or .17HMR but it is a killing round for varmints.

I traded for this last week with no scope. Swapped some stuff and thought the rifle needed a cheek rest so got one, but it is a tad too high with no way to grind it down. It does work but I need one 3/8ths lower. Oh well. Any this older Marlin 783 had a decent 4.5lb trigger but I had to try the Rifle Basix MAR 1 trigger. Holy Cow! It is really clean and crisp, adjusted to 2lbs, with little creep or over travel. If you have a Marlin bolt gun this is a WOW trigger. RB has a trigger for later models too. http://www.riflebasix.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=68

I like shiney!

I ain't hunting for ammo any longer.  It is either available at a decent price or I won't shoot.  Now days I shoot for fun. For me to be fun it has to be comparatively inexpensive. I traded for these revolvers because I have some pretty crappy ammo to shoot up like CBs, shorts, mixed bags of who knows what, and dirty old stuff.  Good thing about revolvers is that they aren't too picky and unlike centerfire even bad .22 ammo ain't too dangerous if you aren't at the wrong end of the pipe.  Out of old revolvers even plinking at short ranges is fun with crappy ammo.   Between ammo hoarding/speculators and urban anti-gunners I may get priced out of the shooting sports. Good thing I have other hobbies, some of which I am dusting off again after having shelved them getting side-tracked by shooting.  

If you can get a H&R Sportsman 999 you can have a fine shooting 9 shot.  I think they are accurate, but then no one is inviting me to take take up where  Ed McGivern or Bob Munden left off, also Jerry Miculek has nothing to fear from me, so my "Accurate" may be suspect.  I read somewhere that H&R QC on these fell off in the late 60s or early 70s but I am not sure about that.  But I did limit my search for a Sportsman to pre 60s if possible.  I got that in spades when I landed the one i got along with the "Special" which is simply the Sportsman/999 predecessor if I understand the progression correctly.