graycrait

All mine are tools. I enjoy looking at purty guns but have no personal interest in jewelry, knives that don't do realy work, trophy wives or guns that aren't shooters.

I traded into this unfired CZ Scout (see middle rifle in photo): 16" barrel, 12" LOP, 32.5" OAL, 5lb wgt wo scope, 2 mags, 3.5lb trigger. Rehab Bushnell 3-9 was on my spare parts shelf . My wife now owns this. Then you are going to ask, "What did I trade for it?" I traded a Ruger 22/45 Lite, with threaded barrel, Volquartsen trigger and sear, no mag disconnect or LCI & 2 mags, box and paper. For comparison in the photo is Top: a Ruger "10/22" with 29" barrel and Mannlicher stock; Middle: CZ Scout "Shorty"; Bottom: Glenfield (Marlin) 60.

Unless you need cash bad do not sell that most elegant of all deer rifles.  I had a 99 250-3000 Takedown from 1921 with the canvas bag leather trim intact with original aperture sights.  My MIL needed some cash so I sold it.    You can fire Savage .250 through it .  There is a lot of info on these on the web.    That rifle is an "elegant sufficiency!"   You are a lucky individual, don't sqaunder such a blessing.  And don't let any of the known "vultures" talk you out of it.      

I would like to start a private dialogue with someone who knows a lot about .22 Hornet, reloading concerns, good "enough" rifles that can have barrels replaced with different twist rate barrels, etc.  I really want to looking into shooting and reloading subsonic .22 Hornet.   Thanks

If on a budget and want a much better trigger pull than what comes on a stock 10/22 then replace the hammer with the Voquartsen target hammer for about 35.00: http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RSC&Product_Code=VC10TH&Category_Code=R1A   This really applies to the metal trigger housing that Ruger used to make as they have inconsistent specs, but the VQ hammer works its magic in any of them.   If you have a poly Ruger housing I can emphasize the Kidd trigger group enough.  It is costly, 105.00 plus shipping, but it works so well.  http://www.coolguyguns.com/Ruger-1022-trigger-job-kit_p_95.html  I don't know how well they may work in a metal housing but they are great in the more consistent spec polymer housings.   Lastly setting the torque on the action screw that holds the rifle stock and action together is simple with most 10/22s the trick is the barrel's v-block screws.  Because i switch out things a lot on my guns, not just 10/22s, like optics, I needed a good torque driver.  I got the Wiha 10-50 inch lb torque driver and I think it is great.  http://www.wihatools.com/200seri/285vario_s.htm   There are a couple of other variable torque drivers recommended by gunsmiths and tinkerers, but their cost is about 2x what the Wiha is. This is one of them: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/wrenches/general-wrenches/torque-limiting-screwdriver-prod18668.aspx    Of course there is always the Fat Wrench and maybe that one is good enough.    I also have one of these and it is reliable but it is huge I find it awkward to use for my purposes. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/screwdrivers-sets/magna-tip-handles/magna-tip-adjustable-torque-handle-prod25706.aspx

Before my hand injury I would say HKP7 for pure CCW utility, fast "pointability" and quality.   Since the hand injury Glock 19 for CCW.   If you have a CZ 75 you owe it to yourself to do the SA conversion.  Go to Cajun Gunworks: http://cajungunworks.com/ You may have to go the CZ store to get the nice straight trigger.  I felt one of these a couple of weeks ago and I can only say "Wow!" I wish I had hung on to one of those 75s I used to own or the 85 Combat.   For range fun it is hard to beat the Sig X Five Tactical or a 1911 in 9mm  could only imagine a Sig P210   Any 6" or greater .357 DW or S&W.  They are fun to shoot long range targets.   Then there are the .22LR handguns, which beat everything when it comes to fun: name the brand, from pot metal Saturday Night Specials to Benellis or Pardinis.

The only thlngs I have seen go wrong on these:   1.  when someone tries to clean them and removes the bolt, then kinks the recoil spring when they reinsert the recoil spring into the bolt.   2.  When the wire ejector gets bent down a bit over the years.  You can grab that wire with a needle nose or slip a flat tip under it and gently bring it up and inwards a bit.  It is a bit fiddly but very easy to get right.  If your gun is double feeding this is generally the culprit I think. No disassembly required.  I have never seen the extractors so bad that they didn't work. 3.  Dirt build up in the action.  Contrary to popular belief you do have to clean the action once every couple of decades.  All you have to do is remove two bolts, the rear trigger guard bolt and the big one under the forearm. Leave the other screw at the front of the trigger guard alone unless you just have to remove the trigger guard.  That front screw is easy to bugger up the hole in the wood.  Slide the action out of the stock.  There is a Chicago screw at the rear of the receiver you take out and two opposing screws up front you remove, that is all.  Slide the action out of the receiver.  Spray that sucker down and carefully toothbrush and air can/hose the crud out.  Don't get all fired up and start bronze brushing that thng and knock one of the small springs out of adjustment. Again, just because it can be a pain in the butt I recommend not taking the bolt out as the recoil spring can be a bugger to put back in without kinking it. Carb cleaner, toothpicks, brushes, forced air can get the bolt and receiver in pretty good order without removing the bolt, recoil spring, guide rod.  I have "fixed" several Marlin 60s by just giving them a cleaning and relube.    This old adage applies to the Marlin 60, "90% of gunsmithing can be solved with Gun Scrubber."    These guys make some neat Marlin 60 stuff:  http://www.diproductsinc.com/products.aspx?CAT=3603  Just make sure if you are ordering a trigger guard it is one that will fit your Marlin.  There were some changes over the years in length or shape which I have no clue about.

I traded for this Glenfield 60 a couple of weeks ago. When I got it it wouldn’t cycle. Dismantled it and cleaned it. However to get to the innards I had to remove some expensive camo tape that was wrapped over the entire thing, stock, action, scope, rings, barrel and tube. Then I had remove several coats of tan paint that was used to paint the entire gun, scope also. I used the soda blaster to remove the paint from the barrel, action, trigger guard and press checkering on the stock. The Baking Soda removes finish but doesn’t harm the material underneath, nor does it “fix” scratches, dings, etc. in metal. It was great to clean out the checkering without harming the wood. I used standard stripper to remove the rest of the finish from the stock. The old recoil spring was kinked, a common issue with the Glenfield/Marlin 60. The front sight was missing. I ordered a new hammer spring, extractor springs and a recoil spring from Numrich. For finish I used what I had out in the garage. The stock got a couple of coats of Danish Oil (walnut) followed up with a couple of spray can coats of polyurethane. The metal got about 5 coats of flat black engine paint. Slapped on a spare 3x9 AO Simmons .22 Mag scope on it and I am ready. The Glenfield 60 is exactly the same action and barrel as the Marlin 60. The stock and sight were different for cost purposes, with the Glenfield sold at a discount vs the Marlin 60 through various major name stores. The Marlin/Glenfield is describe as sort of Swiss watch design. They work, have more springs and parts than their main rival, the 10/22. However, there are over 11 million Marlin 60s out there whatever the name vs about 5.8 million 1022s. DIP Products makes a nice trigger for the Marlin 60. I’ve put them in other 60s but haven’t decided what I am going to do with this one. I want to shoot it first. It may need the brass screw recrown procedure.

Can  I get this in .22lR with a drum mag in full auto? How about .22LR in semi auto.  Damn! Squirrel War - die you bastids! Save the bulbs!!

I have been dorking around with 1022s for a while. A couple of recommendations if you have decent eyeseight and like to hit sometimes moving targets. 1. Get a Green Mountain 24" Running Boar barrel. Install it, it is easy. 2. If you have a newer polymer trigger housing, get the new Kidd trigger kit for 105.00 and install it - it is easy. 3. Get and install a C-More Railway 4MOA red dot 4. Stock choice: Ideally get a Tapco with a forward vertical foregrip, but to save money the 24" Running Boar will fit in either stocks designed for standard taper carbine barrels or .920 barrels, whatever you have on hand. The barrel pictured below is in an Archangel Target stock and works well but if I had this barrelled, scoped receiver in a standard stock or tactical stock it would work as well or better.

Pearljam is that like toejam or code for something obscene?!

what I thought was interesting is that on "thefiriningline" there was a long thread trying to determine what the issue was with someone else's Buntline Peacemaker over a year ago. They didn't mention the "boss."   So I know this isn't a one-off.  

I got this Colt Peacemaker Buntline .22 a couple of weeks ago. Its .22mag cylinder was binding and sitting in the frame un level and I couldn't figure out why. So what do I do I order a .22LR cylinder from Numrich. Before that arrives I acquire a Colt Frontier Scout, parts interchange, but I didn't want to cannibalize the Scout just yet. The .22LR cylinder arrived today and wouldn't turn 1/4 turn in the Buntline. I started going online and found that this is not an isolated incident and is reported on other gun forums with the Buntline Peacemaker. I took all three cylinders and both pins and they all worked smooth in the Scout. I then started to compare the two guns to see what was differrent if they had interchangeable parts why wouldn't the Buntline work even with its own parts? I noticed that the Scout didn't have a boss, a raised ring that can act as a spacer or bearing of sorts, on the interior of the frame surrounding the pin hole. The Buntline had a high boss and quiet irregularly level. I stoned that thing down to a nub a little at a time until even my tightest fitting cylinder, the new .22LR I got from Numrich today, all fit. Now the cylinders all sit level and don't bind and yet cycle well. Now it is time to go shoot the tar out of these things. As a side note the Buntline, although a nice gun, had been going from owner to owner, everyone complaining about it. Then the most recent owner before me told me, "here is a project gun for you,." as he tossed it in with a trade we were working.

I need to know what compressor I need to keep a steady stream at 150psi for the least amount of money that will last me the next 20 years.  I may even use it to paint my '91 F150 with the Mustang V8, Flowmasters and no rust holes. OK so most of the gauges and warning lights don't work right, the truck runs well.  Reminds me of a couple of guns that are around here.

After reading CASTERs thread on soda blasting I went to Harbor Freight and got the soda gun for 25.00.  Then picked up a 50Lb bag of soda by Arm & Hammer.  If I could keep the pressure on my little compressor over 80lbs that thing ripped paint off a gun.  Lots of soda everywhere, so do it outside or in a cabinet.  I did mine outside and stayed upwind.   Do not even bother with this unless your compressor can maintain 100-120 psi.  Oh sure you can get by but it is so much faster and more efficient to keep the pressure up.    http://www.harborfreight.com/50-lbs-medium-grade-armex-soda-blast-media-65929.html   http://www.harborfreight.com/1-liter-abrasive-blast-gun-92857.html    

I have 3 non-Western style H&R revolvers and all 3 are steel. Newest one is a early 70s' 622 the other two are from the 1930s.

The way I look at it. I would take a well "broke in" colt .22 over a brand new Heritage rough rider any day   The beauty of rationalisim or pragmatism - great!!

OK, "space age" aluminum, that is better than Zamak, I think. Da.. thiis gun trading LOL.

Interesting.  I just took a magnet to the frame of the Scout - POTMETAL - ZAMAK = Hi Point, Phoenix, Lorcin, Bryco, Jennings, Jiminez, RG, Rohm, Erma and who knows what else?   However, my Colt Buntline Peacemaker is all steel.  Very interesting.    I wonder if Colt made the Frontier Scout frame or some other "maker."

I'm down to my last 5K of .22.  Once it is gone I am fishing until I can buy 5 bricks at once in Walmart.  I refuse to even darken the door of an LGS until cases of .22LR ammo can be purchased at reasonable prices. 

I just got the revolver, no box, spike or paper.   As far as selling it I like to have at least two of what I shoot, especially any older guns, just in case one needs to be canibalized to keep the other running.  This Scout is a nice companion for my Colt Peacemaker Buntline .22.  All parts are interchangeable.

I was trading a fella a Marlin .22 today and he asked me if I would be interested in his Colt Frontier Scout Golden Spike .22. As long as it shoots I am interested in a .22t. Well I walked off with it and a Marlin 60 I thought I needed. I have no clue as to the value of a Colt Commerative that is in fine shooting shape but not very pretty cosmetically. I like the snickety snick of the Colt when you cock the hammer. What do you think I should do with this as far as reconditioning if anything? What do you think is a realistic value? You know me - I am going to shoot the tar out of it. Below the pic is a link is what they look like if they are pristine in their presentation box. http://cprr.org/Museum/Ephemera/Colt_1969.html

I would have given you some green too...didn't know it was for sale.   Neither did I, but things happen. 

I don't know about feeding the TCM but I had two Rock Island/Armscor 9mm 1911s and they worked great out of the box.  Well one was a .38 Super and I found a 9mm barrel with link  for 49.00 on time and it dropped in and ran in that ,38 Super like it had been mad for that pistol. 

How many rounds of 22TCM did you buy with the gun - won't even mention how many rounds of 9mm did you get!