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Everything posted by graycrait
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Look up ferritic nitrocarburizing
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The Rr Ruger Da revolver design is pretty fool proof and reminds me of the modularity of a Glock. My experience is that due to Rutgers fabulous I vestment casting and its ability to get great gun to market without significant hand finishing. However, I have generally found that taking a dental pick to hunt for casting "slag" has some utility as does some 2000 grit at all friction. points. Some red tranny fluid and spring experimentation and you are set.
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gunner777.WordPress.com/2008/08/24/ruger-gp100sp101book-of-knowledge Pretty good reference.
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Finding receivers is the hard part as even a stripped used beater is going to cost about a 120.00 and all the after market receivers are considerably higher than that, so buying a new gun selling off the parts is the only way to go, better yet is you can buy a used 1022 for 150.00. I shot this target last week at only 25 yards with the previously pictured rifle. Supposed to be 4-shots but I got carried away with one. My goal is sub 1/2" at 50 yards and sub 1" at 100 yards. I need some serious upgrade in rests, ammo and technique.
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oops! scroll down to the one for the takedown 1022, now that is a tidy package, but unless you have suppressed SBR Teakdown 1022 the forward part/barrel, etc is going to be at least 18" or so to accommodate the 16" barrel and the rest of takedown linkage.
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I've had two Takedowns. I don't know why I bought them. They worked but having to take them down and putting them back together gains what. I have a 16" threaded carbine 1022 that is light and stows away nicely without taking it down. I think this would be really cool for a 16" 1022 carbine and I hope to get one someday. http://underfoldstocks.com/
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One of these days I am going to get a stock 1022, have it rechambered and crowned by Que in Huntsville for 55.00 then have the bolt trued up for another 35.00 and commence to shoot groups. I'll bet it will shoot as well as any 1022 that has 800.00+ sunk into it. Couple of issues shooting groups with a light semi auto: You need a heavy rest with a stop you can push the forearm up against. You can't let if "free recoil" because with a semi auto this upsets your next shot, quite unlike a bolt gun. You need to "hold" the 1022 comparatively firmly. The stock Ruger barrels are good barrels with a loose chamber to allow any 8 yr old to shoot 20 year old ammo they found lying on the floor of the barn. Have the chamber recut and shoot target ammo and you will see a significant difference. Experiment with barrel dampening with inner tubes material or closed cell foam under the barrel. Pay attention to the torque value of the V-block that holds the barrel to the receiver and to the bolt that holds the receiver to the stock,. Some ammo simply will not produce groups. Remington Thunderbolt might be a fun ammo when shooting "beverage" cans, but it is patently inconsistent.
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This was my first card with the pictured 1022. It is again: Used heavy taper green mountain barrel (you can buy these new when available for 89.00) Used DSP OEM stock opened up for heavy barrel probably worth 100.00 OEM receiver and OEM bolt probably retail 160 Craig trigger probably 100.00 Simmons Whitetail Classic scope on sale for 100.00 So you can see that this is not real expensive but it ain't free.
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Chevy Ford argument. I've owned a number of Sigs including X-Five and SA 220s, DAK and whatever in Sig land. I have no idea how many Glocks and Glocks with crazy aftermarket. I'm not now a fan boy of either, but I would reach for either. However, I only now own Glocks. When you want to impress the fellas at the range you cannot beat a nice Single Action 220 or an X-Five in 9mm. Of course nearly any decent 1911 in .45 or 9mm will or can shoot with the Sigs. If all you want is a reliable efficient save your butt gun that you can have some fun with then Glock is just fine.
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I have yet to see one box of .22LR in a standard big box store in the Clarksville area. However, there is a store in Clarksville, with sister stores in McKenzie and Martin, which allows a customer to buy 300 rds of Eley Club for 7.99/50. Problem is Eley Club seems to be an inconsistent target rd and at that price it should shoot gangbusters.
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Got you didn't I? Anyway, this is my 200yrd saltine cracker 1022. Swift AO Mildot, cutdown and recrowned Urban Rifle Supply sporter barrel, Archangel stock, trigger done by me and fellow TGOr plinkr4life, OEM bolt and receiver. If any of you have a berm to shoot against, shooting saltine crackers (2"x2") at 200 yards is a lot of shooting fun (OK so my next birthday I'll be 59 so my fun might be different than yours:). Try it with a little wind and it can be interesting.
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what I am thinking is this gun might shoot sub MOA at 100 with the right ammo, but right now I would expect a flier or two every now and then with a stock bolt. I will see. I need all the magnification and light I can get with these eyes of mine:)
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Got this 1022 together and got it on paper just to see how everything fit together. It looks like it is going to be a good one, but time will tell. The outline of the "group" is a dime. Shot 10 shots in about 10 seconds off a wobbly table with a bag at 25 yards using bulk SK std vel. No FTF or FTE. Barrel is a used GM heavy varmint barrel I traded for with a guy from Nashville. The stock is used one I traded for with a guy from TN Ridge who is a TGOr. The trigger group is an old used one that I traded for with yet another TGOr from Nashiville. Receiver and bolt were in my parts box and although OEM, they are from different eras. The stock has two closed cell foam pressure pads in the barrel channel, one in front of the receiver and the other out near the tip of the forearm. Scope was given to me by a TGOr and is a one of those Midway special Simmons Whitetail Classics. Scope mount is DNZ shimmed liked crazy.
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Used or new, it won't matter. The receiver, bolt and trigger housing are the key components. The barrels work nearly as well as any high end aftermarket barrel if they are rechambered and recrowned. However, your average 1022 will likely manage better than minute-of-squirrel stock and it won't matter if it is from 1964 or 2013. Just about anything 1022 or nearly any other .22 you need to know about modding or simple facts, issues and fixes are contained here: http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/index.php
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Looked up a few department gun trades/changes/sales to see what others were doing. Colorado Springs seems to be the smart ones. Trading "old" S&W M&Ps for new M&Ps for no cash. http://gazette.com/colorado-springs-police-trade-get-new-handguns-with-smoother-trigger-pull/article/1504558 Baltimore County MD seems to be pretty arrogant with their taxpayers' dollars. "Not trading or selling to wholesaler" old Sigs and paying full price for FNH pistols. Interesting is that this department has gone from Glock to Sig and now to FNH. I smell fiduciary buffoonery. Someone is making serious money on these deals. Maybe it is like athletic shoe deals to colleges. For instance one college basketball coach gets $400K/yr from Nike, a nice income supplement. Besides these folks in Baltimore County, MD - what public servant would opt for full priced FNH pistols for their department and why would they do it? http://articles.baltimoresun.com/2013-09-25/news/bs-md-co-new-guns-20130913_1_national-law-enforcement-partnership-police-chief-james-w-baltimore-county Edmond, Ok seems to be using the standard practice, old Glocks for new Glocks at a savings: http://newsok.com/criminals-to-buy-edmond-police-new-guns/article/3886851
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Where in the heck is the .22LR? I went to Iowa last week and couldn't find one round of .22LR in a big box store or lgs's. Still can't find any around here. I am begining to imagine that somebody is conspiring to have me give up shooting, and they aren't far away. Trouble is I don't think that somebody is a left winger in DC, I think it is somebody who shoots or sells shooting stuff. Saw Federal 9mm 115 grain in Rural King the other day for 39.99 and that will make me give up shooting 9mm if that becomes the normal price for 9mm range ammo.
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Sidewinder, Fiber Optic sights are OK for close in shots but you will have to try it out at 25 yards yourself. These Dawsons might be a little more accurate as the pipe is a smaller diameter. http://www.dawsonprecision.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=80000FF3-1304980668 As far as red dots go Matchdot Ultradot is sort of the go to sight: I had one on a nice MKIII set up I gave to a young guy who needed a good .22 pistol. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/651463/ultradot-matchdot-red-dot-sight-30mm-tube-1x-2-4-6-8-moa-dot-matte I am not a big fan of tube red dots. I like this C-More: http://www.cmore.com/railway.html#Anchor-rw2 However these Millets work nicely for the money: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/546845/millett-red-dot-sight-30mm-tube-1x-variable-sized-dot-3-5-8-10-moa-with-weaver-style-rings-matte Or these for a few bucks less: 3 MOA seems to work as well as IMHO as well as the 2MOA: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/459296/millett-compact-red-dot-sight-1-tube-1x-3-moa-dot-with-weaver-style-rings-matte I'm not a bullseye shooter though.
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They stole a lot of stuff, but didn't try to move the safes. There was a 1022 and an 870 also besides ammo, powder, primers, bullets, IPADS, jewelry, cash, etc.
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"Hell is coming for breakfast.";)
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A friend's house was burglarized Tues nite near Clarksville. Known handguns stolen: S&W 57 (.41 mag); "early" gold anodized Ruger 22/45 Lite with threaded muzzle. 22/45 also has a Volquartsen trigger.
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I have looked for .22LR this past week in every big box store and LGS that sells that stuff from Clarksville, TN to Charles City, Iowa, about 679 miles. My findings are there is no such thing as .22LR ammo left on the planet that doesn't belong to a gouger on the internet or is being used by a "driller" in Chicago's southside. Why can't I buy a case of CCI SV at a reasonable price?
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This is not my first rodeo with a Savage 24 .22/.410. The first one I had was a DL with a pot metal cast receiver with rabbits and pheasants on it. The hammer had already been changed over to the more reliable version. The trigger pull was awful. I took it apart and was fearsomely consternated on how to lighten the trigger pull and smooth it out. When I asked the Savage 24 forum for help in getting it back together I was told "if I couldn't do it myself do what the rest of us do, put the parts in a bag and send it to a competent gunsmith." That was my first trigger job on any firearm, I did get it back together myself.
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I have had an LCR in .22, maybe even 2 of them. I shot them a lot, but never to failure or anywhere close. I have a friend near Viola, TN and we used to compare the LCR with the S&W Airweights in .22LR, the 317 and 43C. Huge difference in price between those S&Ws and the Ruger though. If I had the cash and wanted a light weight .22LR snubbie I would try and find the aforementioned S&Ws. The LCR has a longer stroke and let off when cycling but is very smooth. The Smiths seem to cycle faster and are or can be made as smooth. In .22LR snubbie-land I think the 43C is the one to beat. I've only seen one 43C, and for that matter I have only seen one 317. I suspect they are both rare as hens' teeth in the current market but both are still S&W production models I believe. Looks like if you had to wait a year or so to receive an ordered one from an LGS that would be OK, cause I doubt you are going to find ammo readily available in the quantities necessary to break it in or torture test it.
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I can shoot it but can't sell, trade or give it away. This is a 1954 made Savage 24 .22LR/.410. It has had one shot fired through it back in 1954. Note the hang tag. This was what my father in law gave my mother in law for a wedding present! My MIL gave it to me to keep. FIL has been deceased 3 yrs.
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If I were living a dangerous lifestyle like my FBI SWAT friend or was a DA or LEO who have put many bad guys away I wouldn't carry a .32 keltec as my sole carry gun. However, most folks who might want to do me me harm in the lifestyle i live where i live and how i live likely don't want any holes in them anymore than I do regardless of hole size.