graycrait

Yeah, I did the work myself including installing the trigger bar, RTK Tactical trigger (which doesn't appear to be available any longer) and you should try the Galloway dual recoil spring - makes a huge difference. 

The trigger is horrid. Has anyone tried the Galloway trigger bar and RKT trigger upgrade? Did it help and did you like it?   Yes and yes.

Although I have had at least 8-12 MKI,II & IIIs I have not had a 10"  I recently had a fella who wanted to trade me his 10" blued MKII for a relatively rare plinking .22 rifle I have but I talked him into trading me a new Ruger American Rimfire in .22WMR instead.  I would still like a 10" MKII but then I would have to put some kind of weird grip on it with a neat optic, otherwise a 16" 1022 carbine is likely more practical, or maybe a Charger with loads of aftermarket. A TGO'r is letting me play with his TI rear charging pistol on semi long term loan:  http://www.tacticalinc.com/rebel%E2%84%A2-rear-c-479_1239_481.html It is threaded too!  Pretty darn neat.     BUT - How cool would it be to have a 10" MKII integrally suppressed?  That would be a wow gun! Something like this maybe:  http://paladinarmory.com/22Pistols.htm

To keep from losing the safety detent plunger put some grease in the hole where it resides in the safety button, then use some foam/sponge/eraser to keep it positioned correctly when you reassemble.  When reassembling from a complete disassembly I prefer to put the frame in a padded vice with the barrel pointed slightly downward.     I've ripped the mag disconnects out of a dozens of MKIIIs and replaced them with standard MKII bushings or this guys machined product.  I took the LCI out of several also.  I used this guy's product to fill the gap where the LCI went in mine.  I just don't like all the gunk that accumulates around the LCI.  If you replace replace the sear and trigger with VQ parts you will drop your trigger pull to a clean 2.75lbs.   This part more accurately replaces the space of the mag disconnect in MKIIIs  http://www.tandemkro...ushing_p_9.html   LCI replacement http://www.tandemkro...nsert_p_16.html   http://www.tandemkro...Combo_p_34.html   These are nice replacement parts also:   Volquartsen triggers (adjusts for over and pretravel) http://www.rimfiresp...tegory_Code=VC2   http://www.rimfiresp...tegory_Code=VC2   MKII bushing to be used in place of the MKIII mag disconnect apparatus:  http://www.rimfiresp...tegory_Code=VC2     Volquartsen sear will do amazing things for your trigger pull http://www.rimfiresp...tegory_Code=VC2

I don't know about you folks but I tried to really like to carry a  snubby.  I like revolvers and can pretty much do anything to the innards to make them run a bit better.  I took a combat snubbie class one time a couple of years ago and found out that if I shoot all my rounds I simply cannot reload fast enough regardless of the system, especially under stress.  I am not Jerry Miculek.  Not that I would need more than 5 but that would be a nice option.  I suppose I could carry 5 or six snubbies, aka Josey Wales, but that ain't likely.  I think a hammerless airweight .38 in a jacket pocket to run to the store is a good thing, but then so is an LCP or Keltec .380 or even a .32.  For different geography I simply use Glock.  In snubbies I think I have owned 2 LCRs, 3 Airweight .38s, a ported titanium .357 snubbie, 2 model 60s, a couple of Taurus 85s, 2 SP101s, and a couple of those Taurus 9mm 905s.  In my mind a snubbie with moon clips is the way to go but the 905's clips are too flimsy for carry reliability.     One last thing, the way the Ruger LCR, SP101, S&W and Taurus cycle and fire are all different in rhythm in pace. In that respect I like in this order: S&W, Taurus, SP101, LCR.  I think the SP101 is the most durable and easy to work on.  It is the heaviest by far.   I don't like the machining on newer Taurus's and think the hammerless Airweights are the most practical.   Remember what God and Ed McGivern(author of the 1938 epic book "Fast and Fancy Revolver Shooting") have decreed: "Double action revolvers should be shot double action." "Pulling the hammer back takes time, and stumbling around in the dark with the hammer back on a DA revolver is a fool's errand." Graycrait '13.  I've found that DA revolvers can be shot very accurately in DA if the trigger is smooth for those who like to shoot groups on paper.

Wish I had someone close who was sick of their Shield.  The only one I shot impressed me.  After Sandy Hook I unloaded all my excess firearm freight at pre Sandy Hook prices just because.  I kept 3 Glock 9mms, all 3rd Gen: 26, 19, 17, also kept my venerable Keltec 32.  The Sigs, revolvers, long slide Glocks, 1911s all gone, squeezing the practical essence out of my little accumulation.  As a S&W M&P Armorer I would love to see a troublesome Shield just to fiddle with it.  If you are in the Clarksville area and you have had trouble with your Shield contact me via pm. I would like to examine your pistol for the fun of it. As a note: If you are having trouble with a 3d Gen Glock you probably should forego handguns and get a human body guard who carries a Glock.

The other good thing about Glock's "space age polymer" is that it seems to bond well with Devcon 290, a two-part epoxy.  When I have needed to repair my own frame grinding and cutting mistakes it works like a champ. 

Well, if the Whitetail Classic is now made in China so be it, for a 100 bones I like this scope and just sold another 1022 with a recently purchased Midway Whitetail Classic Mildot which I really liked for switching from 25-200 yard shots.  For my money on a rimfire I think those Midway WC are pretty nice scopes.  If you really want to shoot great groups at 100 yards you might think about something with a Fine crosshair. The Muellers and Simmons WC are rather thick. I have owned three Muellers, several Nikons, Swift and a few others for rimfires.  For a plinker I like the little Simmons 3-9x32mmAO.  When you are looking at sub 200.00 scopes you have narrowed the field quite a bit.  Someone mentioned the Leupold VX1 another good choice for general plinking. I've had a couple of the Tasco  Varmints but the Whitetail Classic Mildot is the better scope IMHO.  http://www.midwayusa.com/product/168462/simmons-whitetail-classic-rifle-scope-65-20x-50mm-adjustable-objective-mil-dot-reticle-matte

The only other Glock I am interested in is one that that has a 3/4" wide slide with single stack 9mm, however I don't think they are up to it design, engineering, or production wise.  They have shown nearly nothing in terms of new ideas since the inception of the company.  Yet they are still selling like crazy.  Why waste time on a .380 or long .45? 

Ever since I placed one of those small Post It Notes on the front sight of a compensated .357 revolver I never had another compensated handgun.  That was the tiniest confetti I have ever seen.  Which made me think, "if I had to shoot that gun close in to my body would gas and debris hurt my eye or my large nose?"  

Me and my shooting buddy, an 89 yr old WWII Marine Vet, have used pliers and files with impunity on SA revolver sights of all makes, much to the horror of many.  If I had a Heritage that shot low and left i would be a happy man cause I wouldn't need a taller front sight:)    I saw these revolvers today for sale in Clarksville for 99.99 plus sales tax, no background check fee, at one of the regional agri oriented big box stores. I've shot these aplenty and find them a good training gun for youngsters or a decent trapline gun.

I talked to a manager of a "smaller" big box store who has 32 gun departments in their nearly 70 stores.  One of their stores sells 140 guns per week.  I asked him where is the .22LR? I figured he might know as he is a also a shooter and in touch with the industry as they do around $10 mill/yr worth of business just with Sig.  These stores also sell ammo.  He says it appears until hoarders quit buying every round they see, even though may have 20K rds at the house, there will not be a remedy.  He also said that having a President who quits saying the word "gun" would also help. He told me he talked to a guy from Remington, (new Remington ammo plant that makes only rimfire ammo) and was told if they had no new orders it would take 4.5 yrs just to catch up with the orders they currently have.     I figure I will not see a case of CCI SV at a decent price for several more years, which means I will be scrabbling around for a box here and there for crap ammo for some time to come. I'm frigging disgusted with the whole thing.  This situation may make me start shooting centerfire long guns or maybe air rifles - "Horror has a face...."  

get this:  http://www.midwayusa.com/product/746570/   I'm not kidding.  I am always on the hunt for the best rimfire scope for the least and this is it.  I have or have had nearly every scope mentioned in this thread sans the Vortex and like the linked scope the best. This scope also comes in Mildot if you want to pay another 15 bucks.  These are a special deal that Midway has as these scopes are made in the Philippines and not China like the rest of the Simmons line.   Mueller APVs essentially replaced the Simmons Whitetail Classic as the budge good quality scope of choice on rimfirecentral.com.  I think it is mainly due to size of bell because I think the my Whitetail Classic is clearer than my APV.

I love the machinery of those guns and have owned and shot them and their clones the NAA Guardian.If someone laid out a SeeCamp  or a Keltec to save my butt I would choose the Keltec. However if I were collecting guns or acquiring Bar B Que guns to show my friends how cool I was or how much money I had I would choose the Seecamp.     This is my test at the range.  Using only your weak hand, grab and go shooting the pistol as fast as you can in a paper dinner plate at 5 yards.  If you can't put every round in the plate then get another save your butt gun.  That is why I carry a Keltec .32 for weak hand and Glock 9mm for strong hand. I can shoot either pretty well either hand, but feel that the Keltec in my left hand will do 99% of everything I need to do to save my butt.  In a wolf pack or really stupid scenario with multiple targets I can use the Glock.   IMHO:)   Josey Wales

I've looked at photos online of the MR 1022 clones and I have seen both the metal ones marked "empire" and the poly ones. I'm gonna guess that MR uses OEM parts that appear on the Ruger.  I looked over at rimfirecentral and I didn't see anything that disputes MR just uses OEM trigger groups/housings. 

I've owned several of these in .22LR over .410.  The one I currently own, made in 1954, has had two rounds through the .22LR pipe and has the hang tag. It was my mother in law's wedding present from my late father in law. And NO, he was not killed in 1954 by the first round through the pipe, although that might have been justified even back then. But whether you have an old one, an M6 (very expensive now days) or the new Savage plastic gun, they can be fun squirrel guns and a passable farm varmint gun.  Trying to elevate these guns to Jedi status like many old guns are seems stupid to me.  Triggers are crap, guns are not really fast or particularly robust compared to some modern guns, and they are not more accurate.  So to me paying premium prices seems stupid.  

I have never heard of anyone disappointed with a Brimstone job.

If your 1022 has a poly trigger housing just pony up the 105.00 and get the kidd trigger and install it yourself.  If you don't feel comfortable doing your own trigger using Dolomite's links then I would send my trigger to this guy:  http://brimstonegunsmithing.com/ruger-1022-1/   However, if you have real cash and you want a fabulous trigger, the best, then buy the Tony Kidd 2 stage trigger in the poundage you want.  I shot one with a 3 oz trigger the other day I am in lust.  I wouldn't want to go squirrel hunting stumbling around the woods with the trigger, but on the bench that thing is crazy nice.   There are a couple of forum members who I recently sold 1022s to that have Kidd kits in poly housings and I think they can attest to their "wonderfullness."   Now days I do my own like the links Dolomite listed. Leave the sear alone as several have mentioned.   I also endorse just putting in a Voqlquartsen hammer. That, besides a Brimestone job, might be the cheapest route to go for a much improved trigger. I have also shot some of Brimstone's triggers and they are very nice also.

Of course I slept in a Holiday Inn Express but have fooled with a quite a few DA revolvers and owned a couple of LCRs.  When I looked at your video the cylinder latch cuts look good. If this were a Taurus I would suspect the cylinder machining where the cuts are.  On your Ruger this doesn't seem to be the case.  My first thing would be to spray some kind of real lube, not WD40 in there and then hit it with air from a compressor and not a can of air like Dust Off, real high pressure air.  Looking at the diagram in the owner's manual makes it look like that the cylinder latch and latch spring could have dirt in there -  maybe.  In other Rugers like SP101s and GPs and Speed or Service models there is sometimes casting "slag" on their investment cast parts that could also be preventing the latch from fulling engaging or "coming up" the cylinder slots.  If it were my revolver I would first spray it and use the air.  If that didn't work I would take it apart, inspect the small parts then clean and reassemble. I might want to take a fine needle file or an appropriate sized stone and make sure everything is smooth.  I hate and I mean hate, shipping guns back to the manufacturer.  But that may be the best thing in this case and Ruger will more than likely just rebuild the whole thing.  

Maybe there is hope yet.  How much was the brick of CCI SV?  I'll be a happy man when I can get a case of 5K of those at something near pre Sandy Hook/Newtown prices.

If I am moving around in bad geography I carry two guns, one front left pocket and one right side holster.  Lots of theory on what works and what doesn't, and seems most of it is just that, theory.  I think the best thing is to learn to pull and shoot fast close in with either hand.    Check this out: http://www.gunthorp.com/Terminal%20Ballistics%20as%20viewed%20in%20a%20morgue.htm

I have a feeling that I won't be able to buy a case of CCI SV until 2016.  And that has nothing to do with the next election.  This is just plain crazy.  

Get a Glock 9mm for SD or a single stack S&W Shield, Kahr, SIg, whoever is good too.  Not that you will need more than 5 or 6 shots but unless you train like Jerry Miculek or the late Ed McGivern, you better get everything you need getting done with a revolver in 5 or 6 shots, cause you won't be reloading that thing fast under stress.  If you go revolver carry 2,3,4 or 5 like Josey Wales.  Or else carry a reliable semi and a spare mag or two.

I had a 605 a few years back and it was fine. It was the shiney older style stainless, not the matte finish. Lots newer Taurus revolvers have poor machining cuts in the cylinders allow the cylinder to slip backwards. I never saw it in 80s or 90s models.

Can 221 Fireball be loaded down to fire accurately at subsonic speeds? What is the twist of a 221 Fireball barrel? Dolomite, you know the deal - I need a reloadable center fire with .22lr ballistics and I want it reasonably priced - OK, cheap as possible.