graycrait

http://www.accurateshooter.com/huntingvarminting/winchester-17-win-super-mag-rimfire/   Makes me want one.  If a few other rifles are made in this caliber with real commitment by ammo producers I can't hardly believe it wouldn't almost make the .22WMR and .17HMR obsolete.  A friend of mine says it really is impressive on coyotes within it's range.

Eric at EWK Arms is a friend of mine, pen pal anyway/  Great guy to deal with.  Buy the DW. They are easy to completely strip and replacement parts are available.  You can't beat that price. 

  Well the first one is on GB now - http://www.gunbroker...?Item=386016836   I'm hoping it sells for 1200 bucks just for s...t and giggles.

I can't do the 42 in .380, just too many more practical options like the LCP, KT P3AT, S&W BG, etc.  They are all smaller, lighter and proven well enough.  The Glock 42 is sort of like the Sig Mosquito.  The only people who like the Mosquito are Sig fanboys, the only excuse to like the Glock 42 is that it is a Glock in a new caliber, however dumb a market move when compare to putting out a single stack narrow 9mm.  Makes me want the Whitney Wolverine offspring, the Remington R51.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8C5Y4r5FDk   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EVj5NOywSY

PS, if you do nothing else then let someone else shoot mags 9 & 10 to see how it is running.  And/Or in mags 9&10 use some good self defense ammo and see how it does.  With the PMC and WWB you might want to step your recoil spring down a pound or two and see what that does.   I've had some pistols that to shoot relatively anemic ammo I had to change recoil springs.  One of my fun things is to see how cheap of ammo I could get some pistols to reliably eat.  WWB is about the worst but I did have some remanufactured and Paki machine gun ammo that I simply quit using.  However, you could step your recoil spring down and even use a buffer as a "safety" measure to see what you need to get that seemingly tight SR1911 to run inexpensive factory loads.   

If you have a good bit of time behind other 1911s and they shoot good for you, yet the SR1911 doesn't, then you have choices:  1) leave it as is, use some wet lube in cold weather than doesn't congeal, and shoot about 2K more rounds through it to see if it starts to run the way you want; 2) Tell Ruger what you said here and see what they say; 3) maybe take a stone and some 1,000 grit sandpaper wrapped around a tongue depressor and hit all friction points between slide and frame, maybe polishing the ramp, throat and chamber (carefully) with one of those bullet shaped felt dremel polishers and putting in a new recoil spring, maybe put in a new barrel bushing; 4) Move it down the road unless you like the challenge of making it run.  I've only had about a dozen 1911s and worked on some others for friends, but claim no trained expertise.  The only one I ever saw that was hopeless was a Springfield Micro that a friend had that he had sent to SA 3 times I think.  That thing never went reliably into battery no matter who was shooting it with a wide variety of ammo. As a last resort I did a fluff and buff on it and it still wasn't reliable.   This guy had several dozen 1911s and this gun confounded him.  I believe he traded it to a gunsmith for a polymer framed something or other. 

Grip safety?!  I missed that.  Pretty much a deal killer for me.  I figure in my lifestyle, geography and attitude if I need a handgun to save my butt  just about everything else in my life has gone wrong. I figure I will be shooting weak hand, one handed from the fetal position, covered in wetness (yes that too) crying for my mommy.  My muscle memory won't be Delta Force-like, tunnel vision will have set in with loss of fine motor control.  I'll probably be going into shock preceded by lots of pain.   I'll likely need as much or more luck than anything else.  The only button or switch or lever I want to pull will be the trigger. If that isn't the scenario then I will have been very very lucky, likely having created distance by running as fast as I can, the other way, like an old rabbit.  Or I have taken a job as an assassin.

Lumber_Jack, that was my intent and not too clear.  Thanks for the clarity.  I like the looks of the R51 but I'll wait for a while on this one.  I jumped on a couple of guns in their first production run and wasn't real happy.  

This might be the one!  I'll try one out when I can again buy 10 different types of .22LR ammo in a big box store.  That should give Remington plenty of time to work the bugs out. 

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2012/12/james-grant/gun-review-cai-canik55-tp-9/

I'm on the hunt for a single shot 580 or 590 myself. I'm going to cruise some pawn shops today and have a few friends on the look out.  While I am out I will look for a H&R .410 single shot too, in case I can get it stubbed.  One way or the other I want a light weight .32ACP rifle.  I've got a lot of .32ACP and some hand me down reloading gear, so this would give me some incentive to learn to reload.      http://www.grantcunningham.com/blog_files/d0933cdef91e8cd8f029270c1d12342f-947.html   http://www.castbulletassoc.org/forum/view_topic.php?id=9887&forum_id=8&jump_to=69567   http://www.homegunsmith.com/Archive/T1284.html   http://www.survivalblog.com/2011/10/survival-aspects-of-cartridge.html   http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?195891-32-ACP-carbine-SHTF-critter-getter/page2&s=42920d2c8adc39a9845db52b7f17a1ae   I have a Remington 580 which was converted to centerfire and fitted with a .30 cal., 10-inch twist barrel and chambered in. 32 ACP using the front portion of a .30M1 carbine reamer, so that it would have a proper rifle type throat, and also headspace on the casemouth, like a .45 ACP. Mine is a single shot and uses a pinned in barrel. A new bolthead was fabricatedand fitted with an M16 extractor, and modified to use a shortened M16 firing pin. Using cast #3118 Ideal 115-grain .32-20 bullets and 1 grain of Bullseye it is almost entirely silent, like a .30 cal.CB cap. It also shoots well with ordinary. 32 ACP ammo, but is louder. Accuracy with the best loads is about 3/4" at 25 yards and about 2" at 50 yards with 4Xscope. A good .22 LR with match ammo is less expensive, as quiet and more accurate.

I have a friend in Birmingham, AL who thinks stubbing is easy to do.  However, Dolomite thinks rebarrelling a 580 is the cats meow and thinks doing something with a Savage .223 is a possibility.  Relining with a .32 blank would be neat if I could get the liner in 1:16 twist.  The key with the .32ACP is that it is "semi" rimmed with a narrower rim than other .32 rimmed ammo.  If I could ensure accuracy out to 50 yards with a .32ACP reload I would get a barrel done in .327 Magnum so I could shoot all the ".32's" including .32 H&R, .32 S&W Long. 

Neat rifles.  As you likely know that Marlin is going to bring a nice price if sold smartly, as well as the 513. The other 2 I have no clue but should be shot a lot:)

There were two that I know of, both collectible to some degree.  The Dreyse Model 107 .32acp rifle and the AR-like Armi Jager AP 74.  All other .32ACP rifles I have come across are DIY.  There used to be a boy's rifle in .32 rimfire that is pretty common and there are a few .32 S&W rifles, mostly DIY as far as I can tell.  I'm really wanting a .32acp to use like a .22LR when .22LR is not available, which for all intents and purposes it isn't available in the types and prices I like.       

Thanks for the tips guys. Converting a Remington 580 makes the most sense for the weight I am looking for. If that doesn't look promising I can always have a H&R .410 stubbed or have a barrel made for a Savage Axis.  The Encore or Contender is possible as is a Martini but then those will take some saving.  Several barrel companies make barrels for .32ACP with 1:16 twist and in a pinch 7.62 barrels or even a .303 can be rechambered. I'm hoping to find a Rem 580 in a pawn shop one of these days. 

Berreta Pico: 11.2oz empty Keltec 380:      8.3oz Ruger LCP:     9.4oz Keltec P32:      6.6oz Seecamp:       11.5oz Naa Guardian: 18.72 (380) Naa Guardian:  13.5 (.32) Taurus TCP:     10.2 (380)     The only way I use the mousegun I have (Keltec .32) is one-hand weak-hand and when I practice I draw and shoot at 3 -5 yards into a paper plate as fast as I can, sometimes holding the gun in close, sometime extending it one handed.  I have owned NAA Guardians, KT 380s and shot extensively Ruger LCPs  Never had a chance to shoot a Seecamp.  If Keltec made a reliable .22LR pistol the size of their .32 I would use that instead, I look for speed and hits.  I tried to like the Ruger LC9 and Diamondback. LCP is too big for pockets and DB9 is too harsh for rapid multiple shots fast.  The Guardian was simply too hard to hold onto.  The number of snubnosed revolvers I have had is simply ridiculous.   All gone except for the Keltec .32.  If my Keltec .32 ever quits or goes away, and I don't expect it to unless it goes into evidence, my next choice is the LCP or likely another light weight hard chrome KT .32.  

Seems "my" idea is like all my ideas,a day late and a dollar short.  Lots of guys have done this, shooting subsonic cast loads for a quiet woodswalking rifle.  THose Dreyse semis cost over 1000.00 bucks easy and the price keeps going up.   Here are some links that relate to this:   I'm collecting links on how to get a rifle in .32ACP.  Please take some time to peruse through the last link, which is some essays and projects by Ed Harris, creator of Ed's Red.     Saw this here: http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-94199.html   I have a Steven favorite rechambered from .32 rim fire to .32 S&W Long. It will fire .32acp too! It is quiet! I also, like 444 have chamber adapters in .303 British for my Martini BSA , and 30-06 and .308 for quiet tim   Reviews aren't inspiring. http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/rifle-chamber-insert.aspx?a=471502   https://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/197650.htm   Always something on Grant Cunningham's website:  http://www.grantcunningham.com/blog_files/d0933cdef91e8cd8f029270c1d12342f-947.html   http://www.saubier.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4900   http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?195891-32-ACP-carbine-SHTF-critter-getter   http://www.homegunsmith.com/Archive/T1284.html   easier to read but no pics: http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/open-h-r-nef-firearms-forum/24096-32-cal-bunny-gun.html   Thoughts by Ed Harris: http://www.guns.connect.fi/gow/ed.html

Fascinating:   https://www.okshooters.com/showthread.php?109059-Custom-Built-H-amp-R-s&highlight=32+acp

I'm thinking I need a .32ACP rifle but would like to look at rifles or carbines, semi, single or whatever action.  Right now I am not interested in the cartridge conversions but I may go that route.  Anyone with experience with a .32ACP long gun or even the cartridge conversions.  I'm thinking reloadable subsonics for plinking, small game hunting and suppressed.   Thanks,   Craig in Clarksville 

http://www.nelsoncustompistols.com/

news on Ruger IBOK and Ruger Gun Guides from rugerforum.net posted Jan 13, 2013 notathome, First, welcome to the Ruger Forum. It looks like someone dug up an old post because I have recently received several PMs and there have been a couple posts in the past few days about IBOKs. Sorry, IBOKs and Ruger Gun Guides are no longer available. When this forum first started, we had a hard time recruiting new members so I wrote several 15~20 page booklets on specific Ruger guns called "Iowegan's Book of Knowledge (IBOK for short). At first I was emailing the IBOKs to people upon request providing they joined the forum. This got to be a very time consuming chore so thanks to Keith Smith, the former forum owner, we started a Library on the forum where the IBOKs could be downloaded free by members with 10 or more posts. This worked well and recruited a lot of new members for a couple years, however I had to pull them off the forum in November of 2009 due to copyright issues. I then rewrote the IBOKs, added a bunch of information, photos, etc and consolidated like models (all DA models, all SA models, and Mk Series) and published "Ruger Gun Guides" that were about 50 pages each. These were copyrighted, printed in hardcopy, and sold on the forum (non profit) to again encourage forum membership. Although it was a lot of work on my part, this went pretty well for about a year and gave this old fart something to do in his spare time. Printing costs went up, postage went up, and sales went down. I also got a couple hundred dollars worth of bad checks. Additionally, I got stuck with more than $1500 worth of Gun Guides so I made a command decision to cut my losses and quit selling them. I got rid of the existing stock at local gun shows. That was just over 2 years ago and I haven't had any more printed since then. I'd like to think the IBOKs and Gun Guides had a little something to do with forum growth ... but now that forum membership is growing by leaps and bounds, I don't think they would still serve the intended purpose. BTW, the Forum Library is still going strong and is located at the top within the "NCO CLUB". Members need 10 or more posts to access it ... in fact if you have less than 10 posts, the Library is not even visible. I have posted more than a dozen articles plus several charts and references, as have other forum members. These are all a free download and because they are not copyrighted, they can be shared with others.

Some years ago I got a pdf of Iowegans Ibok, nothing like it anywhere else I'm pretty sure.  However, the SP/GP101/Speed/Service Six is a pretty straightforward design with no real trickery in assembly or disassembly.  ONe thing I have found when working on Ruger DA revolvers that there can sometimes be small bits of "slag" from the casting process.  You can use dental picks and needle files and stones to address this if you find any.  Also there are friction points which can be addressed very lightly with some 1200 grit paper or even a bit of Flitz with a dremel. Do not touch anywhere there is an exterior seam, it is supposed to be a sharp and a tight fit. I favor red ATF as a revolver lube as it migrates well without having to glob it on.  Besides several youtube vids these might help:   http://rugerforum.net/ruger-double-action/62312-thought-i-had-bum-gp100-did-trigger-job.html   This is a link contained in the above thread, but it is one to study closely if you want to go all the way into the Ruger.  GP-100: Five Minute Trigger Job! (UPDATED 01/17/10)    Ibok: http://gunner777.wordpress.com/2008/08/24/ruger-gp100sp101book-of-knowledge/

I would suggest that if you can - fire the LCR, SP101 (although a tank) and a 442 variant, along with a S&W 60 on the same day one right after another.  The LCR and SP101, although both Ruger, are dramatically different in cycling feel to me. Other than weight the S&Ws in 442 or variant vs a Model 60 feel pretty much the same when cycling.  I do not like the little Colts and don't trust current production Taurus revolvers.    As an aside make sure your bullets are not "walking" out of the case in the lightweight snubbies.  That could lock them up.  Shoot one or two or three and the empty the live rounds and see if the bullets are "backing out of the case."  I saw this happen when I used remanufactured rounds and some handloads that weren't crimped well enough.     I also owned a .22LR LCR which I didn't particularly like, although it functioned fine.  It didn't translate well for me to the .38 LCR.   I have shot the Airweight J-frame .22LR revolvers, the 43C and 317, too expensive and hard to find for my tastes. I don't like the SP101 .22LR but have only shot one a couple of dozen rounds.   Bottom line is I really like revolvers, really enjoying tuning them up too, but I found that my Keltec is easier to carry and faster for me to reload, while a G19 or G26 just makes more sense when it is practical to carry a larger handgun.   My CCW order of revolver carry would be:  442/642. LCR, S&W 60, SP101. 

Don't forget the new Ruger American Rimfire in .22WMR.  That one goes for around 260.00.  Usually for much less you can find a good shooting used Marlin 783/883/983 in.22wmr.  I'm trading one of my .22s for a RAR .22wmr once me and my trade partner can work out the logistics for the trade.  I found a 783 one time whose barrel was so rusty on the outside I thought I had purchased a $60.00 .22LR Marlin 782.  I shot it using .22LRs and thought, "What is wrong with this thing, patterns like a shotgun." Then I took a flashlight and steel wool to the barrel and found it was a .22WMR.  I felt foolish.  Slapped some .22wmr in it and it shot great.  Refinished the rifle and gave it to a buddy who had coyote problems but no rifle.  One time I had a heavy barrel stainless Remington 597, but having a target barrel for a .22wmr seemed sort of senseless to me so traded that one. In retrospect I should have hung on to that one as a curio.  What am I going to do with the RAR .22wmr?  Shoot it a bit (I only have 3 boxes of .22wmr) and then see if I can trade it for a RAR in .22LR.  One day I would like to shoot a .17WSM but after looking at the Savage BMag rifle in that caliber  I'll likely pass on that until ammo is readily available, if ever, and see if Ruger is going to make a rifle in that caliber.  http://www.shootingtimes.com/2013/04/16/first-look-17-winchester-super-magnum/