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Everything posted by graycrait
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I'll go out on a limb and say if it shoots the way you want it to then forget it. However, if it will still be legal length I would not hesitate to cut it off with a hacksaw and use a carriage bolt and valve grinding compound to put another crown on it.
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Rugerla1, I say 80lbs at 3 yrs.
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I'm going out on a predictive limb and say Your next President, Hilary Clinton.
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yeah, it feels fat for sure. I'm going to have a shoot off tomorrow with the Storm against my carved up G19. I am trying to decide if want to part with 400 clams for the near new Storm. I need to shoot the Storm left and right handed one-handed as fast as I can. As easy as the Storm is to shoot range style I'm not sure its trigger is what I want for a save your butt pistol.
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Go G19, well at least I think that is my G19. That is one ugly functional pistol.
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I generally shoot SV ammo now. I couldn't find any SK Standard so went to bullets.com and had 3 bricks of Norma Tac22 shipped for about 158.00 for all three. I would buy CCI SV if I could find any at a decent price.
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Saw 7 or 8 boxes of 225 count Remington Goldens in my nearby Walmart at 10 a.m. this morning. I had to take a triple take to make sure I was reading the labels correctly. Then I glanced around to make sure I wasn't going to get trampled by hoarders/gougers. No one but me at the ammo section. I told the section clerk we were witness to a miracle. She chuckled. Those were the first .22lr I had seen in that store since before Sandy Hook. I'm not too keen on Goldens so passed them by. Pre state sales tax price was 5.33 cents per round I think.
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I had one for a month or so 3 or 4 years ago I think it was. It was fun to shoot. I never had a problem with it but I thought it was pretty flimsy. It certainly doesn't seem up to serious use, especially at the pivot point. In my mind it is a fun novelty gun.
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I'm thinking about getting one of these as my first .17HMR. I can't find much bad being said about them online. I don't know anyone who has one in .17HMR. My RAR .22LR shoots well. So am looking for a good reason not to get an RAR in this caliber vs Marlin or Savage or CZ.
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I have an RAR .22lr compact and I (hate to say it this way) I love the way it shoots, esp for the price. Easy trigger job for a 1lb3oz trigger. I think it is CZ 452 accurate (I've had 3 or 4 CZ 452's). I haven't had a .17HMR but would like to get one. So I figured if I wait for a standard size RAR in .17HMR I would have a pretty decent .17HMR. My RAR .22LR
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For those who have owned or shot this pistol: I'm not sure I have shot a more softer shooting pistol in this size. A friend lent me his because I was curious about the "rotational thing." Believe me, I have shot a lot of pistols. I went to shoot it with an older (than me) retired LEO's place in the country. His comment was, "you can shoot this pistol all afternoon." I thought the same thing. Very Sig-like in some aspects but I swear it shot as soft as my "late" Sig X-Five Tactical, but without the sight radius length and the X_Five's nice SA trigger. However, for an out of the box trigger I thought this Storm's trigger was pretty nice, both DA/SA. If I were teaching a beginner's class I would use this pistol. Any thoughts from those who have shot or owned one of these? I'm thinking of buying this gun if the owner will sell it, primarily for a range gun for my wife and I think as a good nightstand pistol. However, I'll carry a Keltec 32 or my G19. Craig in Clarksville
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Great Evaluation of Lubes and Rust Preventatives
graycrait replied to chances R's topic in Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting
I've been bored before but never that bored. I am glad he did this. I've been using Frog Lube in my 10/22s as it makes cleaning the chamber and breech face area easy to clean. I use CLP on my centerfire pistols because I have a gallon of it. I've used up a can of Oneshot and I liked it for various things like door locks in my house and cars. I've never used or seen or looked for WD 40 Specialist. I'll continue with Frog Lube and CLP. -
gregintenn, I like the way it looks on the left side, for the most part. On the right side I see a lot of room for taking something off to make it "curvy" and more symmetrical. I've read where some red dye in clear oil makes a better contrast in this type of walnut. Maybe I will relook at some of the links I have found that discuss this and provide the type and ratios. Ultimately I want a nice feeling stock and it is already that, I just don't want to jack up something that could look really nice, without having to outsource it and give up the chance to learn something.
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I got this stock in trade and it was a roughed out blank with deep deep chatter and tool marks from the maker. I have it this far and can see in the photos a couple of places on the right side where I can radius things a bit more to give more symmetry. This is my first foray into this sort of work at this level. I've refinished plenty of stocks, some very nice ones but I never realized how much work was entailed taking one from the maker in such roughed out condition. I can't imagine taking a blank and doing one by hand. That would take a great amount of time. I had at first thought about mixing a bit of red tint to stock finishing oil to highlight the contrast but now I think I will just go clear. Any suggestions, criticisms or advice would be appreciated. This is a 10/22 stock.
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I would like to have that Hi Point, but it should be Cerakoted some other color. Yuck!!!!!!!!
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Just wondering what you think?
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tinting tru oil to enhance contrast
graycrait replied to graycrait's topic in Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting
Thanks for all the comments. Gives me some things to look at. I am a long way from finishing this stock. This is how it looks with mineral spirits applied: -
I got this really cool Wenig produced 10/22 stock. It looks to be English Walnut. Does anyone know of something that can be added to an initial coat of TruOil that will not darken the natural tints but will enhance the contrast?
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I like the comment about the HK P7, if my hand injury wouldn't have caused me to have sympathetic trigger pull when squeezing the front safety I would still have one. Lowest bore axis (bore points like an index finger). The only other gun that points like this without the sympathetic trigger pull is my grossly modified Glock 19. I tried so many other pistols/revolvers. If you have good fine motor control, go P7. If you don't - well then you have to find your own way. I still get a kick out of folks who think shooting on your feet with a two-handed modifed weaver stance is what handgun shooting is all about. If you are stalking or LEO during an Op then things are different, most of the rest of us are going to be using our handgun as last resort in a bad physical situation. Best just be home by 10 p.m. and not traveling in questionable situations. If you can just hire two Delta Force pistoleros, otherwise get something that points fast one handed.
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Changed my mind, if this thing works and isn't some ridiculous price I want one in .32 and maybe .38.
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I'm fond of weird but other than shooting through a jacket pocket I can't think of any reason to have one. I appreciate simple but that mechanism would have to be proven to me. I carry a Keltec .32 everyday for its size, but this thing looks kind of big. I've owned a lot of small revolvers and somehow I can't imagine it is more reliable than S&W or Ruger. Like the R51, I'm gonna wait on this one even if it is made here in TN. However, if it shot .22LR, was really small and pretty inexpensive maybe.... Apparently a .22LR in this design is a booger to shoot. If it needs a moon clip for .32 or .380, well... Can't wait to see how it develops and hope those folks who are making it are successful.
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If the R51 works, this time around and the reviews are good over many thousands of rounds I want one.
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I would call the compact a medium taper barrel at .652" at the end of the barrel. Front and rear sight have been removed. The OEM plastic stock has two brass full length pillars in a really stiff stock. I tried bending the OEM stock and it is pretty darn stiff. http://www.ruger.com/products/americanRimfire/features.html# http://www.ruger.com/products/americanRimfire/features.html# I've yet to shoot it with the OEM stock but I bet it shoots as well with either stock. However, the compact comes with a 12.5 LOP and the OEM stock weighs 1lb 12.5oz about 1 lb less than the Boyds. If I were to carry it in the woods it would have to have a different optic. I'll keep it as is, my pretend I have an Anschutz 1710D, because with my skills and resources I don't need the Annie: http://www.champchoice.com/store/Main.aspx?p=ItemDetailOptions&item=2202095
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at 25yrds this was 1/4" and 50yrds 1/2" shooting just a couple of groups. I used crushed walnut bags at 25 yards and my experienced shooting buddy shot it at 50yrds off a Cowen rest. However, like with all .22s groups can vary widely with various ammo. Ammo that might give <1/2" at 50 can open up quite a bit at 100rds. I was talking about this very thing this past Friday with a long time rimfire shooter who shoots for groups while we were shooting at the Davidson County Sportsmen Club. He told me about using Eley Tenex EPS in one of his rifles that gave him great groups at 50 while it gave worse groups at 100yrds than cheaper ammo. Shooting a number of groups well successively with a sporter rifle can be a little tricky. How many groups, how many shots per group, how is the group measured? I suspect a lot of "pipes" are capable of good paper group shooting but are hampered by ammo choice, stock, bedding, trigger, rest, shooter technique, etc. I suspect this Ruger will get a workout one day to see if I can shoot 4 good groups successively at 50 and beyond. Right now I feel it is easy to shoot this pipe "minute of squirrel head" at practical distances with a number of different types of ammo.