graycrait

I swapped out the FLGR for a GI plug and spring in my current SA Loaded. Also you might want to read this, but you don't have to make your trigger 2.5lbs.  http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=10297/GunTechdetail/2-lb-Trigger-Pull   If you like the stock trigger great.  If you want to make your trigger pretty darn nice you can order this and do it yourself for less than you can "buy" it done.  http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/trigger-tools/1911-sear-jig-prod1299.aspx  If this is new to you might want to buy a spare 3 legged spring.   You might want to visit these websites.     http://forums.1911forum.com/ http://www.m1911.org/full_technic.htm   Lastly, you might like this: https://www.nelsoncustomguns.com/22lr-conversion/

I can't find a respectable practical review on the 5.56 version.  I see Whittakers is selling them them for $364.00.  I'm not looking for a 400m match rifle, just minute of coyote head at 200 with the cheapest ammo I can buy.  I see I can buy Tula .223 for 6.60 OTD.

http://www.ruger.com/products/americanRifleRanch/specSheets/6965.html   If so how does it shoot both 5.56 and .223, both steel and brass cased ammo?  I'm looking for comparatively "CHEAP" centerfire rifle fun out to 200 yards.    

I too had a FEG with the KBI model numbers some years ago. I picked it primarily to learn how to do an action job on a Hi Power.  Did the job then traded it off.  The gun worked well and I said to myself, "Hmm, wonder why all the hub bub about this design?"  One has to hand it to JMB though, two iconic handgun designs back to back.  Oddly the gun or design didn't do it for me and then I went on a small tear for CZ 75s for a year two.    

Picked this up today. 7.62x39 Savage [/URL]

I'm thinking you need to polish your bolt, esp where the hammer drags, maybe even radious the back edge. Also disassemble the bolt and clean and polish.  Change the exractor to VQ.

Hmmmmm.......?  This is almost intriguing enough to make me want to bite on the trade.     Why can't I just take oak blocks and drill appropriate sized holes to clamp the barrel in a vise and then turn the bolt nut using a savage nut wrench?   There are no competent gunsmiths in the Clarksville area, least ways none that I know of.   I suspect I may never need to change calibers but being able to switch from 7.72x39 to 5.56 satisfies my inner being somewhat.

I'm sort of bored with all the usual suspects and don't care about shooting much beyond 200 yards.   Due to concussions or something I can't deal with a lot of recoil.  A fella suggested I get a 7.62x39 bolt gun (I've had AKs, Mak 90s and SKS - ain't going there again just because).  I started reading about reloading data on the 7.62x39 and saw that SP bullets up to 154 can be used, don't know how light one can go.    Anyway a fella suggested a trade for a 7.62x39 bolt gun and although I am intrigued.  I'm not sure (because I don't know enough) if I should go this route.     Also, how fast could I change the barrel and bolt head to 5.56?  I would imagine the barrel and bolt head combined would be 200.00 or so? If I am wrong tell me.  But I'm not sure on the cost of the tools to do this.  I'm thinking the wrench and a barrel block/vise, plus go/no go gauges.

If I had another 10/22 that worked I would replace all the guts of the MR with Ruger parts and see what happens.   Is the MR bolt one of their own or a Ruger bolt?   When you say Kidd trigger is it the entire housing and guts from Kidd or simply a Kidd kit installed in the MR trigger housing?    1.  Do what Dolomite says.  Then disassemble the bolt completely.  Run some 800+ grit sandpaper anywhere there is friction, like in the firing pin slot, along the firing pin.  Maybe replace the firing pin spring.  Clean the extractor slot well and get a Volquartsen extractor.   2.  Make sure the extractor slot in the barrel is working. and without knowing what kind of barrel it is maybe check the breech face for burrs etc.   3.  Make sure the barrel is installed so that the exctractor is centered in the slot in the barrel.   4.  The trigger may be another thing altogether if it is allowing full auto and the full auto is not related to the bolt/firing pin.   I've frittered away more money than most on 1022s and these are my lessons learned.   1.  Don't like the way your stock 1022 works?  Send the barrel and bolt to Queboltworks 90.00.  Install a VQ extractor 12.00.  Maybe put a piece of inner tube an inch away from the forward edge of the stocks forend. Install a Kidd trigger kit or send your trigger to Brimstone 35-110. Everything beyond that is probably involving serious money with no real dollar cost benefit.  Bedding, done right probably won't hurt.  Trigger, tuned OEM bolt and rechambered OEM barrel will put you so close to the high dollar rigs it hardly makes sense to go further.  Have you noted that regardless of how much you spend on a 10/22 they are still never used in any sort of international competition?     2.  Next upgrade for me would be barrel and stock.  My choice for barrel would be http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/17-heavy-taper-sporter-replacement-barrel-22lr/  Stock who knows?  They all seem to need some fiddling with.   3.  Next upgrade for me, now, would be:   http://www.champchoice.com/store/Main.aspx?p=ItemDetailOptions&item=011763

I say this about "big green" even though today I traded for a Remington R1.  However, I know the history of this particular 1911 and feel confident about it. Especially  seeing it is going to carry a .22 conversion kit:)  

Not bad.  I liked it.  I would like to see an interview on youtube with a Remington R51 engineer.  Heck, any Remington engineer might be amusing.  I took a look at a NIB Marlin 336 today that has a jacked up action.  Who ever heard of a Marlin 336 not working when Marlin was under their own banner.   I would rather have seen Marlin go under that turn into this.  I'm putting Remington and their sub brands in the same tier as Taurus. 

I traded for a Remington R1 with 40 rds of factory JHPs and 435 rds of good reloads. Comes with a Bianchi shoulder rig, Safariland leather holster and some kydex holster. Has less than 400 rds down the pipe. Gun is in minty condition but I hate the trigger, but that is easily fixed. Normally I wouldn't opt for a GI style gun with no beavertail, speed bump grip safety, etc., but I am thinking I'll use this frame for my Nelson .22 conversion and put my Springfield Loaded back together. [/URL]

If it is a Rossi .357 lever gun pre tang safety get it!!!!!!!!! I traded one off some years ago and regret that.  

Although I work part-time as a military retiree in a little known quasi "big box" store that sells firearms, the Marlins I have come across are 50%.  The 336s are rough but the .45-70s look and work pretty well.  The .22s, 60's and 795s, seem to work as well as always.  I am steering clear of anything that smacks of Remington -well, until they re-release a reliable R51 9mm - which may be never.   If Remington can fix the R51 fiasco they might be able to get on track:     http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2015/01/22/remington-r51-pistol-return-production/

Hammer285,   Thanks for the link.  However, I don't currently have an AR, sold my last one to a young cop here in town for what I had in it.     They have to buy their own here and they don't make a lot of money.   Again, thanks for the link.  With the right stock that "90 degree" grip would be interesting to fiddle with. 

I've had several ARs, just am not a fan of toting a rifle with a pistol grip, shotgun either.  I had to tote an AR for quite some time to earn a paycheck and like a long gun without pistol grip.  However, I do like the modularity and barrel variety of the AR.  So one day I might trade for one of these just to see how it works.    

Was wondering about this one.  The second and third links mention the heavy trigger, which would seem like an easy fix.    http://www.aresdefense.com/?page_id=729   http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2014/12/18/gun-review-ares-defense-scr-carbine/   http://www.gunblast.com/Ares-SCR.htm

Even though this particular "big box" store in Clarksville does not have any 43's yet I know for a fact that they will be selling them for 479.99 + tax and background.  I'm hoping the Blue Label prices will be about $100.00 less than 479.99.  At $580.00 I'll never get one just on principle.  Look at what they are going for on Gunbroker right now - crazy.

I hope I get my Blue Label 43 call soon, but I am not holding my breath.  

I just looked quickly. The Phantom trigger for a 42 may work, but that would have to be verified.  When I get my 43 I'll wait for either a Phantom that I know that works or Fulcrum from ZevTech if ZT ever makes one.   http://www.rockyourglock.com/custom/RYG-10015.htm

I did a fair pile of G19s back in the day.  Stock they are marginal for me, especially if you shoot one handed both hands, but I think they are very reliable.  Reliability,  "fast" and secure means more to me than pretty.  

I had one of these Iboks downloaded at one time, reasonably helpful.  The biggest deal with Ruger DA revolvers is hammer spring and friction points.  The Ruger action is an interesting design and a total departure from the Colt, S&W and Dan Wesson actions. I think anyone with reasonable mechanical ability can probably safely completely disassemble a Ruger DA revolver and do a helpful fluff and buff. In lieu of the IBok:   http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2013/12/trigger-job-for-ruger.html   http://www.sp101trigger.com/   http://michigancenteroutdoors.com/ruger_double_action.html   http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/handguns/43237-gp-100-five-minute-trigger-job-updated-01-17-10-a.html

I've had 13+ 1911s. I have a friend who has over 50 1911s. Crazy - looking in that safe. I would get a fully tricked out Rock Island for about 500.00. However, if you want a bar b que gun, one that you can show off gaining immediate street cred, then go Les Baer, Wilson, Nighthawk or the other usual high end suspects. Kimber and Springfield are "old news." They make and sell guns the Filipinos can make the equal of at half their price IMHO. I currently have a Springfield Loaded upper and lower and it ain't any better than any of the RIA's I have had. If I were going to pay serious money for a 1911 there are quite a few private builders who do a good job. But then you have to ask what frame and slide are they using? 1911s have gotten to be sort of like ARs. Lots of people making them and if they are still making them then they probably work. With the internet, CNC, etc, making a decent 1911 ain't quite the job it used to be. I really like certain things about 1911s, especially the grip size, the ability to mod the trigger and general ergonomics as a range toy. Pic is of my current project 1911.

Ran into a Blue Label Glock dealer I know today.  He put me on the first order of 20. I contacted Zev Tech to join the chorus for a G43 Fulcrum trigger.  Looks like I'll have my first factory fresh new handgun I have purchased in some years.  

If I had a dollar for every time I heard someone say, "I wish I had kept that P 'series'" (pick your favorite number: P89, P90, P95, etc.) I could practically buy a Hammerli 210. I think the K's are about the same.  Nothing sexy but so practical.  At that price it is a forever gun because you couldn't replace it for anywhere close to 275.00.