glock55

if the system has a restriction the low side gauge should have gone into a vac or have been very low with the system running. if you decide to change the txv be sure to look in the valve for any debris. if you see any pellet type substance the dissicant pack in the dryer has come apart. if this is the issue be sure to flush the system or you will have a repeat of the problem. also change out the dryer. when you recharge you can charge through the high and low side with system off but only charge through the low side with system running. good luck

i have a Mossberg 590a1 with 18.5 inch barrel and ghost ring sights. i have a vertical grip and stream light tlr2 mounted under the barrel.  imho the perfect home defense shotgun. it shoots anything i stuff in it.

glad to hear that worked out so well for you. just one of the many reasons glock is the best

  TWO REASONS PEOPLE SALE GLOCKS:   1) Its the ONLY gun guaranteed to sell 2) Its the ONLY gun guaranteed to sell for a profit

If you plan to evac the system with a gauge set, pull a 30 minute evac then close both gauges before you turn the vac pump off. The low side gauge should be around 30 in vac and Should hold this for 30 minutes. If system does not hold vac you have a leak that should be repaired. Trace all lines and components for oily spots that will indicate a leak. If system holds vac hook freon can to hose and open can. Open the line on the can where it attaches to gauge set until freon comes out. This will get the air out of the hose before charging. Remember it's better to be slightly under charged than to over charge the system. Good luck Yes it usually doesn't fix the system just to add freon due to fact that they wind up over charging or there is air in system.

be sure to wait at least two minutes after disconnecting battery cable before working on steer wheel. This allows the capacitor to discharge and prevents any unpleasant surprises. I think there was a recall on some of those cars for clock spring issue that called for free replacement. might check with a dealer before doing work as they may cover it. good luck

Kyle construction out of goodletsville. They did my roof then I had them put my crown moulding up. Great work and great people

The following questions need to be answered before any conclusions can be reached: 1) did you use gauges to recharge or just a can and single hose? 2) did the system have any freon in it when you charged it? If not there was air in system and must be evacuated before charging 3) did you see any oily areas on any a/c components these would indicate possible leak sources 4) is your engine fan turning at a good speed or not free wheeling as this will cause high head pressure 5) fast cycling can be caused by a bad clutch or defective switch in the system 6) if the system was out of freon the desiccant pack will be defective also and receiver/dryer will need replacement 7) a way to rough guess freon charge is to hook up gauges, pressure should be about the same as ambient temp, if ten pounds or more above ambient temp is overcharged or has air in system,if ten pounds or more less than temp is low of freon. If your system has never had any work done to it may have had low freon charge due to seasonal leakage. An evac and recharge with correct amount of freon is the starting point for diagnostics. I can send a/ c troubleshooting guide and gauge guide to assist you if needed. A/c repair is not really a backyard job if one doesn't have the correct tools. Good luck

I am a firm believer that good planning goes a long way toward success and James just proves the point. Oh by the way don't worry about the damage like all good contractors James insurance and workers comp will handle everything.

he's just sitting on the fence again however, this may be a barbed-wire fence he's sitting on

how do you say ROAD RASH

I stand corrected, I didn't mean they couldn't hear, I meant they refuse to hear, even truth so clearly spoken.

it looks like xtarheel has hit the nail on the head regarding oil change intervals. oil sampling is the only way to know for certain when your oil really needs to be changed. as I have read this thread I noticed a couple of things that may need to be clarified as follows: 1) my owners manual says--- manufactures oil change recommendations are based on several factors such as average driving conditions ( who really knows what those are? ), warranty issues ( covering their backside), and engineering calculations ( these always look better on paper than out in the real world ). On average I don't think a person will do bad by following these recommendations but I have seen examples of both under and over lube by following these guidelines 2) my oil looks dirty so it must need changed--- this can lead to excessive oil changes due to the fact oil suspends contaminates so it can carry them to the oil filter to be captured and held there. the color of the oil is not a indicator of its need to be changed unless its milky in color. 3) there is sludge in my engine my oil needs changed---- sludge in an engine is not caused by the oil. sludge is cause by combustion byproducts getting past rings, water condensation in the crank and dirt introduced into the engine in many ways. neglecting to change oil regularly prevents the oil from being able to carry all this stuff to the filter in an efficient manner. also every time you change oil you flush the contaminates out with the oil. not changing oil and filter regularly also clogs the filter and puts it into bypass mode so in effect you have no filter at all.   the only way to know for sure when oil needs to be changed is through a sampling program. the oil is checked for contaminates, viscosity, and a host of other factors that determine its need to be changed. were I work we run oil 30,000 mile in engines that are putting 500 hp and 1950 ft/pd torque at the flywheel. the drawback with sampling is the cost and availability to the average driver. I don't think its really practical for the average driver. so I feel we are back to the original question of when should I change my oil?  the newer autos that calculate the change interval are pretty good. it factors all the driving conditions on that vehicle and arrives at a pretty accurate interval. that becomes the average for that vehicle and its driving conditions. my Silverado has this and it can average a oil change from 7,500 to 10,000 miles. I suppose though I have been a mechanic too long and don't let my oil go past 5,000 miles. if you decide to do a longer interval on your vehicle I would strongly suggest replace the filter in between oil changes. in my opinion the filter becomes the weak link in the extended oil change interval.

Spoken in the spirit and language of our founding fathers.  nevertheless, how much you want to bet that fell on deft ears.

the greatest problem I see with people leaving California  is the danger of them infecting other states with their liberal ideals. they created that sorry mess with their liberal mind set and we see now even they cant live with it. for my part we should fence them in and wait for the state to break loose and fall into the ocean.

I have a harris bipod with the s lock on my Remington 700 .308   its solid as a rock retracted or extended. I would recommend.   :2cents:

Let us know if this deal goes down and the name of the shop. I own a time share for some water front property on the moon I will trade for a Glock 30S . :yum:

[URL=http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/glock55/media/IMG-20130522-00018_zpsed9a58f9.jpg.html][/URL] This is my M1a standard with wood stock. I wanted the most original look I could get so removed the original flash suppressor and installed suppressor with bayonet lug. This is probably my favorite gun to shoot. I hope to have a Garand one day but this is a fine substitute. I know you will enjoy yours too.

I keep 100 rounds of critical defense in 9mm,40 s&w and 45acp for self defense purposes. I have heard that hollow point ammo is not really necessary in 45acp for self defense. This line of thinking is the round itself is large enough to do the job. Is this line of thinking correct or not?

  that's just adorable, the mental ramblings of intellectual equals. these two will definitely grow up an do something great.

Sounds like a nice gun. Post a pic when you can.

"We'll stocked" is when I buy -------- "hoarding" is when you buy I think well stocked is when your ammo levels meet your shooting habit and there is a reasonable means of replenishing it as we use it, hoarding is when your ammo levels are such you know you will not shoot anytime soon due to excessive reserves of ammo. We all need a reserve amount of ammo and each person has to make that call. I will also say I don't think the reserve amount is the same today as it might have been a year ago.

As long as you were courteous I think you handle it well. I don't mind giving my land line number out when they ask. My landline is through comcast so if they call I just block the number in the future. What kind of shot gun did you buy?

its good to know that all is well in the world that our house members can waste their time and effort with this repeal nonsense. I will sleep better tonight knowing that our budget problems are solved and the boarders have been secured that they can waste their time with this nonsense. no way in hades this goes anywhere in the senate. may be time to do away with the house ,senate  and the presidency and hire a national ceo to run the country. maybe something constructive might get done.  :waiting:

this has to be the greatest thread ever posted. :woohoo: