monkeylizard

http://ec-mosnay.tice.ac-orleans-tours.fr/eva/IMG/jpg/800px-Trebuchet_Castelnaud.jpg

+1

It's one of their Gold Box Lightning Deals. Click the little gold trasure chest towards the top of their main page for the deals.

Terry's a great ambassador for aviation. I'm sure he's serious about stopping down there to give you a ride in his fork-tailed contraption. He offered to take me down to CHA to look at something I was considering over in the TGO Classifieds. But to me he's not some strange guy from the Interwebz offering me a ride in his airplane. He's the strange guy in the office next to mine offering me a ride in his airplane. Seriously, I can vouch that he's not a serial killer*. If he's offering a ride and you're interested, give it a try. *Once or twice doesn't count as "serial" does it?

I'd welcome the help. Any volunteers?

I was going to recommend the John Hancock tower. Glad you found it. I think it's a better deck than the Willis (Sears) Building, and a lot more to do near it in the watertower area.

Angus was over in the Long Guns section looking for a way to clean some surface rust from a Mosin barrel. http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/long-guns/42627-stoopy-didnt-clean-his-mosin.html In the thread, CLP and CLR are both mentioned and it was stated that CLR would take care of the rust but also remove blueing. I have an H&R .22 revolver with some surface rust and some blueing that's not in the greatest condition. I've thought about finding a way to strip it down and polish it instead of blueing it. Sort of using it as an experiment platform, as I've never done anything like that before. If I completely disassemble it, would CLR take off the blueing/rust without hurting anything else? And would a polishing wheel on a Dremel be an acceptable way to polish the remaining steel or do I need a polishing wheel on my bench grinder? Does anything need to be applied to the polished metal to protect it from future rust (a clear-coat type product, perhaps)?

How? By using the knobs on the top and side of the scope, or should I be doing something with the screws on the rings? n00b

Thanks. That's what I needed to know. Now I just need to figure out how to align the scope....

ROFL!

In that case, let's get some more opinions, since I haven't purchased the bipod yet. Bipod, bag, or rest? And why?

Lazarus, come forth! I've been a bit distracted, what with 5 feet of water at the house a week after my last post. I finally got the scope mounted on some #24 mounts and Leupold rings. I took it to the Stones River range on Saturday. No wind to speak of. First, I think I'll add a bipod. That should make it much easier. Everyone else had one or a bag. I had neither. I know I looked like the n00b that I am. I'll post a pic once I mount that. Second, I need some help figuring out how to adjust the scope. I was shooting at 50 yards and I was aiming about 12" left and 18" high for the rounds to hit the target. So the scope is high and left of the barrel. the scope has knobs on the top and right side. I adjusted them as far as they'd go, and that's when I got to the 12" and 18". Turning the knobs the other direction made it worse.

Because there's a hot chick in Apt 804 that sunbathes topless on the 8th floor balcony on sunny days. Or option 2: He's a midget that can't reach the "12" button unless he has his umbrella with him.

Collision Performance 1300 Gallatin Pike South Madison TN http://www.collisionperformance.com/ Tom Bannen Chevrolet 2340 Gallatin Road N. Madison TN http://www.tombannen.com/bodyshop.aspx

That's not my bag, baby. But I do own various wooden soda crates (Coca Cola, Pepsi, RC), a 5' tall cast iron hand crank water pump, and a Belgian helmet from WW1 complete with the leather innards.

+1 to greenego. Some folks might question the wisdom of declaring tax evasion in a public forum.

But then you filled out your TN sales tax form that green ego linked to, right? right

Don't ask. Don't tell.

Sounds like a good plan. I should be doing my garage several days, if not weeks ahead of the rest of the house. I can experiment in there and get my technique down and then decide if I want to go for it inside or if I want to revert back to rollers.

I'm rebuilding after the flood and am getting close to painting. I'd like to do it myself to save costs. I have 2 options to DIY in a reasonable amount of time - get some buddies and some rollers, or get a sprayer. Never one to pass up the opportunity to justify a new power tool purchase, I've checked out some $150-$200 offerings from Wagner and Campbell-Hausfeld, and then some $500-$800 HVLP units from Fuji. I figure that it would cost me about $2,000 to have it done by a pro, so even at the high end, I'm saving $1200 and I have a nice pro sprayer for the future. I could also rent an HVLP unit from Homer or Lowes for about $100/day, which may be the best route. Has anyone ever used a sprayer for interior latex/acrylic paint and if so, would you recommend a particular brand and model, or name some to stear clear of? I'll be spraying primer on drywall, doors and trim, then painting the same with latex or acrylic.

That's not correct. You can lock your luggage. If the TSA decides they need to look inside, they'll remove the lock. If your lock is TSA approved, they (and I suspect a lot of other people) have a master key to open it. If not, or if the TSA person just wants to be a jerk or is lazy and doesn't want to go get Master key 002 from the other inspector, they'll cut it off. All TSA approved locks that I have seen have a little red diamond or red torch symbol on them. That being said, luggage locks don't provide any real security. I just use them to keep the zipper pulls together to keep my stuff from falling out. Zip ties would have the same effect, but the TSA inspector will re-lock the TSA lock. He/she won't re-zip tie it for me. http://download.security.org/tsa_luggage_locks_report.pdf

The article said he walked to the ER by himself with 90% burns and his junk blown off. That's one tough dude.

I have the same opinion of my MTAC with an XD.40sc. A friend has a Super Tuck and he likes it a lot. It seems to me that you won't go wrong with either. The belt makes a big difference in how well the holster will perform. When I wear one of my softer belts, it's not as comfortable. Good stiff leather helps keep the holster in place by preventing it from sagging. It will also help keep it in place while drawing the weapon. A softer leather will have more give in it. I suppose this is true for both IWB and OWB. You can get "gun belts" made from harder leather and sometimes a kydex core, but they all look like **** to me. Plain with zero points for style. YMMV. The only time I've really considered buying a gun belt is when I've thought about the velco V-clips for added concealability, but the C-clips on my MTAC are pretty small to begin with so I haven't bothered with the Velcro yet.

There is no statute of limitations on lying to your wife. Just hope she doesn't see this.

How come the real UPS drivers look like this guy? If UPS hired drivers like Tap & Rack posted, they'd put FedEx and the USPS out of business in a week. I'd have pizzas delivered via UPS...which actually gives me a pretty good idea for a business model.