monkeylizard

In other words, we don't have stupid laws like Illinois' FOID. You show up with a valid TN ID, fill out the ATF Form 4473, pay the man behind the counter, and walk out with your gun(s) after a few minutes of waiting on the instant background check to process.

Flowers is on Eatons Creek Road on the northwest side near Briley Pky and Ashland City Highway. http://flowers-farms.com/ http://goo.gl/maps/SZKAA  <<google maps>>     C&F is in College Grove http://candfmeat.com/

No trailer hitch on the Tribute....Looks like I'll do the Mafia method. Roll it up in an old rug and toss it in the trunk. :)

Safety in numbers.....

Golden Harvest is the generic version of Ball/Mason. Made by the same company. They're good to go.   $7.75/dozen is an OK price. It's not a steal, but not a ripoff either. Closer to $6 would be a deal.       ETA: The "Mainstay" brand jars at Wl-Mart are made in China, if that matters to you. I'm pretty sure all Ball, Mason, and Kerr jars are made in the USA and I think Golden Harvest is too, but I'm not postive.

Thanks KahrMan, but I'm good. Thompson Center Icon in .308 with a Pentax GameSeeker 4-12 scope. I know it's not the best glass around, but it will get me started.   Slappy, I've read that sticky more than once. :up:   I'm sure my uncle will fill me in on some of the details, but here are my questions: What's a good place to have the deer processed in Wilson or Davidson counties? What's a fair price for processing? Are processors a cash business? Need to know if I should carry enough cash. Do you pay the processor at the time of drop-off or pick-up? How long does it take for processing? I don't have a pickup. How do I transport the deer? My wife has a Mazda Tribute (like an older Ford Escape). Could I just put plastic sheeting in the back? She'll kill me if I get deer gunk in her car. :)

I'll be hunting for the very first time this year. My uncle moved up here recently from S. Carolina and has been a deer slayer for a long time, but had no place to hunt up here. We made a deal: I find the land and he'll teach me how to hunt. I have a cousin in Wilson Co. that said we can hunt his place, so my half of the bargain is done. We're going to go scout it on Sunday afternoon.   I can't wait for November 22nd.

I edited it because once I thought about it, I wasn't sure that the state law couldn't still be applied. I knew I was right about the ATF saying "we don't care...it was designed for your arm", but I'm not sure how the state might decide on it.   Technically the pistol is adapted for being attached to the forearm, not for being fired from the shoulder. The fact that someone decided to do that doesn't change what the adpatation was meant for, but I wouldn't want to argue that in front of a state judge.       I don't see that anywhere in the state law about the adaptation needing to be a stock. I think we're relying on the ATF ruling that the device is for one-handed shooting, not for shoulder-firing. But the fact the ATF says they don't care how it's used could be used to argue that it is indeed an adaptation to be fired from the shoulder. The ATF is acknowledging that the device can be used to fire from the shoulder even though they still don't consider it a stock. State law doesn't specifically say "stock" that I can find, so is it an adaptation to be fired from the shoulder?

<<Redacted>>

It's the same thing. TDOS officially calls it a DOS approved handgun safety course. Instructors call it a Carry Permit Class or some variant because that's more clear on what it is for and draws in the business.

  That's not entirely correct. The link Glock30 provided to the TDOS site is correct. With a permit from New Mexico, Oklahoma, or Texas, you do not have to take the class. You do have to do all of the other things like fill out the application, fingerprints and pay the tax permit fee.  So it's not an exchange, but the OP does get to skip the class.     That's not necessarily a bad thing. The amount of bad information that's spread as "fact" by some of the HCP class instructors is amazing.

If you could just get it to play "Dixie" when a mag is inserted.

  I think you're thinking of the deuce and a half truck. (two and a half ton)   Ma deuce is the Browning M2 .50 cal machine gun.   Being mowed down by either will make you drop a deuce.

Yep. Need something like this. Ma Deuce not included.

I wonder if I could fit that monster on my natural gas grill and if it could get it hot enough. It's way too heavy for my glass cooktop.

  You can call me jealous. That's a hoss! 

Botulism. The critters die at boiling temps, but not their spores. You have to kill them with higher than boiling temps (i.e. pressure canner) or with a low pH level (high acidity). Below 4.6 pH is considered safe for water bath.

Ball's Bluebook of Canning is the magazine-sized softcover book I was thinking of. Wal-Mart has them. As stated above, pressure vs water bath depends on the acidity. High acid foods (most fruits and pickled veggies, but not all tomatoes) can be done safely in a water bath, but can also be done in a pressure canner. Low-acid foods (most unpickled vegetables, meats, stews, etc) MUST be done in a pressure canner. Since you have no equipment, you may as well start with the pressure canner and use it for everything. The exception would be if you'll ONLY be doing fruits and jams and pickled veggies, then you can get by with water bath canning and its lower expense. As Dennis said, the FDA revises their guidelines every so often and it's ALWAYS towards more pressure canning and less water bath canning. You can use the pressure canner pot for water bath canning. You can also pressure can most fruits that only require a water bath. Too much pressure will make your fruits mushy, so follow the guides if you pressure can fruits instead of a water bath. I think strawberries are always to be water bath processed. As for the vacuum adapter, I've never seen a food sealer that came with the jar adapter. You have to buy that seperately. I've never found one in stores. Amazon seemed to have the best prices. I got a regular and a wide-mouth adapter for my FoodSaver brand sealer. You only need the adapter sized for the jars you'll be using. I bought both so I can use whichever mouthed jar I happen to have available. You have to have a sealer with a vacuum hose or they won't work. If yours just does bags, you're out of luck. Regular vs wide-mouth is exactly what it says. The jar on the left is regular. The one on the right is wide-mouth. You can get both mouths in most sizes until you get down into the little jelly jars. I've only seen those in wide-mouth. They're so small I guess it's hard to get a tapered top. You'll need rings and lids to match your jars. Regular ones look nicer, but wide-mouth are easier to fill. Regulars also take fewer bumps to the ring/lid in storage than widemouth. If you bump 2 regulars against each other, the glass sides touch, not the rings. Widemouths will bump rings, potentially disturbing a weak seal. Just something to consider.

Start looking for jars at garage sales and estate sales. That's where you'll usually find the best prices. If the rings have any rust, toss em out and get fresh ones. Use fresh lids every time. You can re-use them if you're sealing dry goods with a vacuum pump, but if used for true canning, they're single-use.   As far as retail for the jars, my mom says Fred's has the best prices, but always keep an eye out for clearance racks at any retailers that sell them (Kroger, Publix, Wal-Mart, Target, Michael's, Hobby Lobby, etc.). Sometimes you'll get lucky and they'll be moving old stock at a good price. Be careful though as most are priced high enough that even on sale they're still higher than Fred's.   Mason, Ball, Kerr, and Golden Harvest are all good. GH is the generic line made by Ball-Mason. If you see a great price on jars other than these, there may be a reason they're so cheap. Off-brand jars would probably be fine in water-bath canning for fruits and jams, but I personally wouldn't pressure can them.   If you have or get a FoodSaver with a vacuum hose, you can get an adapter for vacuum sealing dry goods in your jars. You'll need either a standard or a wide-mouth adapter depending on what jars you're using. It's a great way to buy in bulk and divide it up into smaller portions that will keep a loooooong time, or to just keep dry stuff fresh that you don't use often. We don't go through a lot of chocolate chips. I can seal them up so they last a lot longer than just a twist-tie on the bag.   Check Wal-Mart for the Ball (or Mason?) Canning book. It's a soft cover book about the size of a magazine. It will help you with guides for different needs for different foods. You'll need either a pressure canner or a water bath canner depending on what you're canning. Pressure canner for chili for sure. You need a jar lifter and a tool to lift the lids out of their sterilizing boiling water without getting your bacteria-laden hands on them. I like the kind with a little magnet on the end. Anything else are nice to have tools, but not necessary. A funnel, for example. It makes filling the jars a LOT easier, but you can live without one.   Pressure canners can run a wide range from $50'ish to north of $600. I'd suggest starting with a simple one and seeing if you're going to stick with it. You'll want one with a pressure gauge, not just a wobbly pressure valve, if you plan to can low-acid foods and or meats. I personally won't can anything with meat. I know some do and have no problems, but it's a riskier move for home canning than fruits and veggies. All-American makes some of the best rated canners, but you pay for them. AFAIK, they're all still made in the USA. there are both electric and stove-top models. Some stove-top models are not to be used on glass cooktops, so check into that before purchasing. It will vary by model.

The mags have writting on the side with a version number. This example is version "B" as noted by the last of the printed number. I'm pretty sure the "A" version had no letter as they weren't planning on making later variants of course. If there's an "A" or no letter at all, that's likely part of the issue, though it may not be all of it. The "A" magazine was a cause of many of its early problems. I have a "B" magazine and have had no issues, but I know there is at least a "C" and maybe a "D" revision. Mine has been flawless with CCI mini mags, both HP and round nose, but I can't hit the broad side of a barn with it. It's me, not the pistol. I've seen someone else have respectable accuracy using my pistol. Maybe it's the sights, but I don't shoot it well. I keep it because it's a good pistol with which to start a new shooter. +1 to keeping it well lubed.

    FIFY!

  ducks are cute.

Did your dog have tags with your contact info (or a microchip) when he was picked up? If so, wouldn't that be theft and possession of stolen property since he agreed it's your dog and admitted to taking him from near your home? Turning over the dog in exchange for you not pressing charges might seem like a pretty fair deal to him.   If you don't keep tags on him, then it would be a reasonable assumption on his part that your dog was a stray. He very well could be a dog lover who didn't want to see the poor guy out on his own. On the plus side, you haven't had to buy dog food for 6 months, so maybe that could factor in to the "re-homing fee"?

I'm not saying we shouldn't ban or at least curtail air traffic. I'm just saying that it wojn't prevent Ebola from spreading. It would delay it, and maybe that's enough for the right people to make the right decisions to get ahead of it.   I said "that wouldn't help." I should have said "that wouldn't stop it."

  I'm not going to Dolomite's place because I read Post # 187  :surrender:   http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/82215-welpit-is-now-here-folksebola/?p=1198047