Dolomite_supafly

I can guratee it is possible to take a barrel and banana it like that with an obstruction. Mythbusters is and has been wrong in the past been about things. Provide enough resistance along with enough pressure and something will give. Perhaps Mythbusters used a smaller caliber than the rifle in the OP but I can assure you it is possible. Here is a video of a guy who bananas his barrel as well but with what is probably earth in the bore. YouTube - Gun Blows Up in Face! He should have used Bore Tex! We have all seen bulges in shotgun barrels from obstructions and shotguns are relatively low pressure with roughly 15K psi being max. Now take the pressure up to the 65K that a 300 Weatherby has and blowing up a barrel is not only possible but likely with an obstruction. Dolomite

Not sure I would be sitting in the cupola with the explosions going on above. Even if they aren't supposed to be lethal I suspect they could really hurt based on the impacts in the water. Cool picture none the less. Dolomite

And this is the reason I recommend looking down the bore to sight your gun in. I have heard of this happening more than a few times. I still don't understand why people spend the money on these, they are rarely good enough to get you on paper at 100 yards. I can always get on paper at 100 yards by looking down the bore. Plus with my absent minded self I would be the one in the picture above. Dolomite ETA: And if the guy spent $1200 on that rifle I have another Savage I would like to sell him.

Are you by chance a regular shooter of striker fired pistols? I was and I noticed that the first 50 or so rounds I fired were low as well. I actually thought something was wrong until I sat down and made a concerted effort to maintain a decent trigger pull. After that the groups seemed to come up a bit. Mine also fired to the left but I corrected that with a sight adjustment. I now shoot to it to POA. Dolomite

I have bought from out of state sellers a few times at local shows but not anymore. Now I always ask if the dealer is a TN dealer because I had an issue a number of years ago I bought a pistol from an out of state dealer who was not upfront that he was an out of state FFL (Kentucky). It was not made known until I had already handed him cash. After paying I was told I needed to find a local FFL to do the transfer. I am sure I looked confused at that point. I argued that he should have told me before I paid him and that the price should reflect that I needed to still pay more. He basically blew me off stating that if I wanted the gun I paid for I needed to have it transferred but I wasn't getting any breaks on price. The dealer was somewhat of a regular at the Knoxville shows but I haven't seen him since. What turned out to be an decent show price became overpriced because I couldn't find a local dealer that would do it for a reasonable price. I think I paid $50 transfer then the $10 TICS. Which was about 1/5th the cost of the gun. I could have bought from a local dealer and got it cheaper, even with tax and TICS. Now I make it a point to either go to store fronts or at least know the dealers I buy from before buying. Since doing that I have not had a problem. Dolomite

Mine is turning out to be very accurate as well. Dolomite

Actually, according to the ATF regulations a person may mail a long gun to another person as long as it is within the same state. I don't know of anyone who has done it but it does read as though it is perfectly legal to do so as long as the person receiving the firearm may legally possess the long gun. Dolomite

What I was asking is what are the legal requirements that was mentioned that mandate a FFL must send the firearm? Individuals can and do ship firearms across state lines everyday. The only criteria is that the firearm must be received by a FFL but it can be sent by a non licensee. Dolomite

What legal requirements are there for it to be shipped from a FFL? I know a FFL must receive the firearm from an out of state seller but I am unaware of any legal rquirement to use a FFL to ship. Dolomite

I have built several Norincos and in fact when I bought my American Classic II by Metro Arms I had considered buying another. I am glad I didn't, the AC II is hands down the best sub $500 1911 you are going to buy. I know my Norincos and have been pleased with them but the AC is magnitudes better in both fit and finish. I have, and actually did on the same day, hold several RIA to compare them the the AC. The AC again beat out its closest competitor in both fit and finish. RIA's are good but not exude the same quality as the AC II's do. I can say that the AC II has a better fit than my Colt and seems like it is going to shoot better as well. The AC II's have forged 4140 frames and slides. as well as some nice "bling" most users are going to add. Specs on the Merto Arms Review of the AC II The only reason I would consider a RIA is that they are available in 9mm. This was a factor for me but the deciding factor was the quality feel of the gun. I can say it doesn't have its faults becaue it does but the most important factors in getting and accurate gun are there, all the rest can be easily fixed or even left as is. The sights are Novak style but mine have quality issues and are going to get replaced the second I can. My extractor was a bit out of spec, it didn't affect firing (which has been flawless) but when I went to clear certain kinds of ammo it caused the loaded rounds to hang. I installed a new extractor and the problems went away. These parts are stuff I normally replace anyways so for me it wasn't an issue. I believe that if you buy a AC II you are going to be ahead of the game than if you bought a RIA or a Norinco. Dolomite

It can be shipped by an individual but it must be received by a FFL in the state of residence of the purchaser. Some FFLs will not accept a transfer from and individual but it is legal. Dolomite0

There was absolutely no need for anyone to buy from someone who did this. It is our own fault by paying the guy(s) inflated prices out of fear. It is the people who fear buy who drive prices up more so than supply and demand or at least it was in the months following Obama's win. I even seen one dealer SELLING (yes selling) CCI Stingers for $27 a box of 50. His catch was that they were "pre June" and didn't go bad in 6 months like the "post June" ammo. Of course it was BS but there were people buying his BS as well as his ammo. Had we not bought from people like this at a profit they would have not even thought about continuing doing it. I did not buy a single round or any reloading components from anyone other than MAJOR retail stores and rarely had a serious problem finding anything I needed. They were not in as short of supply as everyone thinks. Now I might have to wait a day or two ro call a different store but I could find anythign I needed within a day or two, hardly a critical shortage. Everyone compalined about finding Varget but the Walmart in Halls almost always had it on the shelves as well as a few others. One thing I did was I would buy just what I needed and leave the rest for someone else. I bought 2k of small rifle primers at Bass Pro in the middle of the supposed shortage. What I left was over 7k for someone else to buy. I guess I could have bought up every single primer then resell them for more than the $29/1K I paid for them but it wasn't worth the hassle. During this same time I was watching people buy bare bone AR's for $1500 and WASR AK's for $800+. The people who bought them at those prices were fear buying and nothing more. And even in the middle of it I could still get all the components to build an AR. Some stuff I ordered was on backorder but I received it within a few weeks. Definitely not a shortage like most people seemed to complain about. Dolomite

I also have a Metro Arms American CLassic. It didn't come with a guide rod, plastic or otherwise. It has a plug and spring and works great. And has been 100% reliable when firing. Here is a reiview of mine: http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/handguns/46092-american-classic-ii-picture-heavy-56k-beware.html For the money they are very nice but not without issues. The sights are good but not great. On mine the rear sight cut isn't in the center of the sight. It will get getting replaced. I was having extractor issues that are now resolved with a new one. Some loaded rounds would hang on the front of the ejection port as I cleared the gun but firing was always 100% regardless of what I fed it. After replacing the extractor the clearing issue went away. I also replaced the sear, disconnect, sear spring and mainspring with known quality pieces because mine is destined to be a carry gun. It isn't that I don't trust the MIM parts I replaced but I do trust machined parts. Many manufacturers have started to use MIM parts in their firearms including S&W, Colt, Remington as well as a few others. I have replaced a few other parts because of personal likes and not because it needs it. I am not even sure it needed the MIM parts replaced but I did. The frame to slide fit is very tight for a budget gun. The barrel also locks up very tight and the bushing is also very tight. These lead to the accuracy I am seeing which is great. I am very, very pleased with mine. I have tried factory parts from Colt to check dimensions on the AC. It takes all the Colt parts easily without any issues. The only parts that need to be fitted were parts that would need to be fitted regardless of maker. I have about 300 rounds thru mine now without a single issue. I have fired factory FMJ, factory HP, reloaded SWC and reloaded FMJ's. Dolomite

As USMCJG said, most parts are going to have to be fitted. Even if the 1911 gods are shining down upon you and everything is perfect (very unlikely) you are still going to have to fit the beavertail safety and thumb safety to that gun. Both of which aren't that hard for someone who has done it before but for someone who hasn't it can be very overwhelming. The difference between a properly functioning safety and one that doesn't can sometimes be as little as a few strokes of a file. Take into account that if you mess up either of these the gun WILL be UNSAFE. This will force you to spend more money to buy replacements to start over, trust me I know. I messed up quite a few because I wasn't patient when I first started messing with 1911's. All other parts should be relatively easy to put in but they too will likely need minor fitting to function correctly. One thing I can say that most beginners try to do is use some sort of grinding tool, either a Dremel or grinding wheel. By using these, as a beginner, you will only mess things up. Files or sandpapaer only and even then you need to be aware. Go slow, take your time and check the fit, and more importantly function, very often. Also, get a book detailing what you intend to do. There are literally dozens of 1911 books on the market that can help you if you do decide to build you own. Most of the frame parts are going to be the same between a compact model and other models with the exception of the mainspring housing and parts related to it. The recoil system is different between the compacts and the full or mid size guns. As far as compacts go they are easier to hide but can also be more finicky. I have carried officer models in the past but I carry a full size gun now. The full size guns are still easy to conceal and most people whould never know I have a 5" 1911 on my side. My wife doesn't like my officer model because the recoil is too much for her to enjoy compared to a full size gun. This extra recoil can make range time a little rougher for you as well if you plan on doing a lot of shooting with it as well. Personally, I would buy a complete gun then have it modified to your liking by either you or a smith. Dolomite

Don't remember if she was blonde or not but I do remember her trying to garner support by saying her little girl was just so heartbroken as the mother teared up on TV. Her daughter was upset until the mother bought the tickets for $3600. The mother must have been satisfied with the purchase because no one was holding a gun to her head but you would think so the way she made it sound. And yet another lesson that should be taught to a child. Sometimes you just can't get what you want and you have to deal with it. We see it all the time in the stores. I don't have a problem with a child being upset or even crying because they did not get what they want as long as the parent doesn't cave in. This just shows the workings of a free market, supply and demand dictates price. I generally don't have a problem with it. Dolomite

I remember a few years ago a mother was all on the media complaining about how she had to buy her daughter Hannah Montana tickets from an individual after the show sold out thru normal channels. The lady paid what the guy was asking then after the show tried to file charges as well as sue the guy to recoupse some of the moeny she spent. In the end she screwed herself by paying the $3600 the guy was asking for two tickets. Dolomite And yes that is not a mis typed number she did in fact spend $3600, thirty six hundred dollars.

Spring looked fine and fit tight. I am willing to bet there was some sort of debris causing the problem. Maybe he will chime in to see if he has had a chance to shoot it some more. Dolomite

9 twist is for the heavier bullets and the only one out there is the Sniper Sub Sonic from Aguila. They are a very specialized round that I wouldn't recommend a purpose built rifle for. I have used them at various times and even had a rifle that shot them well. Problem was I could not find a use for them that warranted the extra cost. They do have a phenominal amount of penetration (16+ inches) but what are you going to be shooting with a 22 that requires that much. The 16 twist is the standard for all 22 long rifles and shoots all but the lightest rounds well given you use quality ammunition. The 18 twist are for the lightest 22 LRs and shorts (If your rfile is built to shoot shorts). By light I mean 32 grain or less bullet weights. Th 18 twist is used for "Stinger" barrels by various manufacturers. Because the Stinger and others have such a short and light bullet, at 32 grains or less, they require less twist to stabilize. I have been told by numerous people that the purpose built "Stinger" barrels shoot Stingers, as well as other hyper velocity rounds, very well when compared to the miserable performance they give in the standard 16 twist barrels. If it were me I would get a 16 twist barrel because it will shoot the most ammunition accurately. As long as you do not plan on exclusively shooting the Aguila SSS or any of the "Stinger" type rounds 16 twist you want. Dolomite

He came over and we took the pistol comepletely apart. I couldn't see anything obviously wrong like broken or worn parts. It is a brand new gun and we did give the internals a good cleaning while it was apart. Sometimes manufacturing debris can get into places it shouldn't be and cause problems, especially in new guns. After cleaning it, some decent moly grease was put on the internal parts as it was reassembled. He took it out and fired it to see how things were. The problem disappeared for him. The biggest thing it needed was a decent cleaning to remove whatever debris was messing with the hammer/sear relationship. That is the first thing I do when I have chronic problems and that generally fixes most problems. If the problem arises again it will probably need to go to a repair shop. Dolomite

Look at Stag as far as complete uppers go. They have about the best deal going right now for the money. The biggest thing is to make sure the parts are milspec for longevity sake. You can find non-milspec stuff cheaper but not by much and it may not be as good otherwise they would advertise it. DPMS makes a decent lower parts kit for the money. Dolomite

Pawn shops are not bad, you just have to check them out often and know what things are worth because if it is a deal it wont be there later. Every time I go to Knoxville, which is about 2x a week, I try to stop by a pawn shop or two. I have found some amazing deals and passed on some as well. I found a decent Marlin model 25 for $65, I found a left handed Savage 25-06 for $239 OTD with rings and in a nice checkered wood stock. I have also seen beat to hell Glocks for $500 and of course I passed on those. Ask how long something has been out on the floor if the date isn't on the tag. If it has been out for a while they WILL come down on the price. If it has only been out for a week or two they will come down but not as much if it has been on the shelf for moneth and months. Something else most people don't know or don't want to do is squable with them over the price. Realize that most pawn shops pay 1/2 the book value or even less for a firearm. This leaves them a lot of wiggle room on the price. I walked into a pawn shop that has a Savage 10FP in 308 and a 9mm pistol I wanted. The rifle was priced at $400 and the pistol at $300. By the time we had got done haggling, which took about 5 minutes, the package deal was $450 OTD. After that I told them I didn't want the rifle and still got the pistol for $230 OTD. It is just a matter of knowing when to walk away and honestly there aren't a lot of pawn shops that I have found that really know what a firearm is worth unless they can look it up in the book. Dolomite One more thing, some the best jewelery I have bought has been at pawn shops. They do not sell fake junk because they will not buy it. I have seen them turn away a bunch of people trying to sell jewelery that the people thought was real but wasn't.

What he said. They do have warranty centers you can send it in for repair. I have the number for a nice group of guys in Colorado that do repair work on the Metra Arms guns. I suspect you can buy the parts for about the same cost to ship it unless they are covering the shipping on warranty repairs, I don't know if they are. I wasn't having any issues with my recently purchased American Classic II but I bought a STI sear and disconnect (as well as a few other parts) just to make sure everything was good. The sear is a MIM part which may last or it may not. I do not want to take a chance on having a failure because mine is going to be used as a carry gun once I get a few more hundred rounds thru it. Where are you located? After I get my new parts in mine, and they work, I can send you my old one to see if that fixes your problem. If you are close to Knoxville we can meet and I can install the sear for you as well as give the gun a once over. Hopefully it isn't the hammer because I don't have a spare laying around I can loan. The best thing about 1911's is that parts are plentiful so fixing it is going to be cheap, even if you decide to pay for it yourself. My match sear cost me $17.50 thru Brownells. The whole order which included the sear, a disconnect, a 4 finger spring (they normally have a 3 finger), a mainspring and a mainspring cap was only $47.13 shipped. Not terribly expensive to replace all the parts with known quality pieces. All the parts I am replacing are the MIM parts. MIM is the new way of making metal parts and there are plenty of other firearms makers, even big named ones, that are using MIM parts in their guns. I am just not that comfortable with the technology yet. As I said before I wasn't having any problems with my American Classic II but I did it just to make sure I didn't have any failures down the road due to the MIM parts inside. Other than the MIM parts this has to be one of the best fitting 1911's I have owned. It is way better than my Colt and so far seems to be more accurate as well. It works well for what it cost and I would compare it to anything under $1000. Let me know. Dolomite

It is very upsetting that things have to go this way and even though I can't get coverage I still think it is wrong for someone else to have to cover me when I am willing to cover myself. Honestly, it really does upset me that others are going to have to fund some of my coverage especially when I am willing to pay for it, I just can't get anyone to cover someone like me who was injured in a third would ****hole defending this country. Two years ago I spent at least $1000 on application fees trying to get coverage for me but once you have been denied once every other insurance company just follows suite and rules in line with the first one. Yeah the VA will cover stuff but if I show up in a ER they will not cover it. I will have to pay out of pocket, which I have on a few occasions when I thought the ER was neccesary. Luckily most places will discount if you are paying cash and in a timely manner. I would probably take out a loan against our home to pay off any magor medical problem because in the long run the interest as well as the total would be cheaper. Dolomite

My 18 year old son, who is in perfect health, just had his premiums go up over 30%. Tjis is for catastrophic coverage, not regular medical coverage. I can not get insurance, I would gladly pay for it but now I get denied for pre existing conditions. In the past I have asked for a writer to remove those from the policy and most say that they would not because it would take too much to determine if a new ailment was part of the pre existing conditions. Recently I did find one company that did agree to write out the pre existing conditions but when they found out I travelled outside of the US as part of my employment they refused to cover me but said if I were home at least 1 year they would. Now that I am home for the foreseeable future because of an injury that occured overseas I can't get coverage again. The same company now says they will not cover me because of the medications I take daily can cause additional health problems. I have tried everything humanly possible to get insurance for my wife and I but no company wants us unless we are in perfect health with no pre existing conditions. They refused my wife because she was is not a US citizen and overweight. She is in perfect health other than the age related weight some people put on. She is in the process of loosing a bunch of weight trying to rectify the situation. Forget about the extra cost or putting in writers, I have found no company that will insure us. Dolomite

I will update a problem I did have. The extractor nose was a bit long and a little too squared. This casued a problem with ejecting live FMJ rounds. About 2 minutes rounding and recontouring the nose with a file fixed the problem. Extractor bind is common on a lot of 1911's especially new ones. If anyone wants I and post and illustration and the fix in case you are having silimar problems. I can say that after doing what I did it smoothed everything out even more and really slicked it up. Now I can ride the slide forward (not that I normally would) and it will chamber the round and lock up just fine. It made a huge difference in how it fells. It honestly feels like a $1000+ gun, especially with all the features. I measured the trigger pull after cleaning the gun and lubing it up with some good moly grease. I breaks at 4lb 3oz without any work by me. I am replacing the sear, disconnect and springs with know brands but not because the factory ones are causing a problems. After I get the new parts I will do a trigger job to reduce the takeup, it isn't bad now but I do notice it. In doing the trigger I will have to fit the beavertail to make sure it works. I have built a number of 1911's in the past and this one is a very nicely fitted gun that would work well as is or as a basis for a very nice custom gun, way batter than the Norinco's that were so popular for customizing. Dolomite