Dolomite_supafly

For the DIY'er any two part bake on finish, like Cerakote, is going to be better than either a single part bake on, like aerosol Gunkote, or a two part air dry, like Duracoat. Prep is going to be the same regardless of the coating. Cerakote is a very, very durable finish compared to most other "DIY" finishes. But even then the prep must be good or it is no better than any other coating. Professional coatings are a different ball game altogther and are going to be better than most DIY coatings. I have never tried Robar's NP3 but I have heard the same as TGO David is saying and that it is amazing. I use Gunkote because it is easy for me to apply, I can use the firearm that day and it has held up very well for me provided the prep is good. Is Gunkote the best out there, far from it, but it does provide the best attributes for me. I like the ease of use. I also don't mine using Krylon on certain guns because it is eay to apply, touch up and remove. I think a lot of the problems home users are seeing are from improper prep. My wife's 9mm AR was prepped very well before we applied a series of flat Krylon colors. It has held up to over 5000 rounds being fired by numerous people in numerous settings. It has been used, abused and for the most part is has held up fine. The barrel has even been too hot to touch dozens of times yet the paint is still holding up on there. The rubber grip of course has some wear as does the area around the takedown pins but other than that there is no discernable wear, even on the flash hider. I tried to remove the Krylon from the rear sight of that gun and it took a 24 soak in solvent to break its grasp after it had been curing for a few years. Conversely I have known people who used Duracoat and report it was flaking amost instantly. I attibure this to the prep more so than the coating itself. As long as you do a thurough prep you will have decent results provid3ed you use a quality coating. Whatever coating you use make sure the prep is done correctly to ensure the removal of all oils. If you don't then you are going to have miserable results. If you can't do a proper prep then have a professional shop do it. It will save you both time and money in the long run. Dolomite

I would use Gunkote in an aerosol can. Prep is everything with Gunkote. I have used it dozens of times and has turned out great. The wear is good as well as one gun I did was carried everyday for about 6 months without any signs of problems. Use gloves for everything. To keep your skin oils off the parts and to keep potentially harmfull stuff off of you. Here is what I do: Disassemble the parts to be coated as completely as you can Clean and degrease all the parts to be coated the best you can Media blast all the parts to be coated (I used medium aluminum oxide from Northern Tool) Bring a pot of 1/2 gallon water and 1/2 gallon Simple Green to near boil As the bubbles start to form remove from heat and let it sit for a minute or two to allow the temp to equalize Place the parts to be coated in the Simple Green solution and let it sit for about 15 minutes ***Do not breath the steam*** Stir the parts occasionally to help break any oils loose At the same time start boiling some distilled water and turn you oven on its lowest setting When it starts to boil remove from heat and let it sit for a minute or two to allow the temp to equalize Remove the parts from the Simple Green solution and place in the distilled water for another 15 minutes ***Do not breath the steam*** Remove the parts from the water and place them in the oven long enough for all the water to evaporate Remove the parts one at a time, not all at the same time, and coat them according to the instructions **If you remove them all at the same time and the first ones will be warmer than the last ones causing them to look different** Make sure you spray outside though because it is some pretty nast stuff, both smelling and bad for you. After all parts are coated with Gunkote place them back in the oven at the recommended temp for the recommended time. I normally put the parts in then set the temp to the 300 degree temp it requires. Once it gets to temp I time off and hour then turn off the oven and let the parts cool slowly in the oven over the course of a few hours. Because the finish is already dry when you begin the baking process it doesn't emit any nasty smells in the oven. This is the down and dirty way I have done it for the last few years and works great. I have only done handguns and small parts but I have went thru at least 4 cans of Gunkote so far. If you have any quesitons feel free to ask. Dolomite

Hitting him with a baseball bat would get me in the same hot water as hitting him with a bullet if it wasn't justified. Aggravated assault or attempted murder is the same no matter the weapon. Him wiping fluids on people is aggravated assault because he knows he has Hepatitus C and is knowingly using it as a weapon. I would like to see him charged with attempted murder the next time he smears someone. Deadly, disease infected fluids has the same risks and probably more after affects than being shot in most cases. Being infected with something would have life long affects on my quality of life as well as my immediate family's. Not to mention getting to die a miserable death because of someone else's actions. I see his fluids in the same way most people would see a bullet, once I got hit it could lead to my death. Maybe not as quick as a bullet but dead is dead. As far as the pepper spray I guess it is one more thing I could add to what I already carry but I don't really want to go overboard either. He was caught earlier this week smoking crack with some girl. I have to say he is one lucky guy because he was released at the scene. The car he has been using, my mother's, was towed because he was too intoxicated to drive as was the girl. She has it in her possession now and is in the process of getting all the damage repaired. She is also getting the interior cleaned of the possible pathogens, after all he does have oozing staph sores. He hasn't been around our house or my mother or my father for at least 3 weeks now. Hopefully he has realized we will not help him until he wants to get cleaned up. I have offered dozens of times to pay for his residential treatment of my choosing but he is choosing his current lifestyle over that. Dolomite

Definitely not a bobcat, too lanky and relatively light colored. Bobcats tend to be more muscular/squatty looking unless this one has been hit by the recession as well;). Dolomite

Here is something interesting for you guys to look at. I am not affiliated with the data but seems to be pretty consistent with what everyone else is reporting. terminal 45 acp Dolomite

Which Novak's? If they are anything other than standard black then no. I called around when I was getting ready to coat a pistol with nightsights. Everyone said that they couldn't gurantee they wouldn't bust. The dovetails are one of the places to watch for grease and oil if you can't remove them. But with that said the instructions I gave above worked for me. Also, it doesn't hurt to let the parts sit longer the the 1/2 and 1/2 solution just to make sure they are good. Something I did forget to mention in the list above is to make sure to "stir" the parts a bit in each solution. Here are a few pictures of a Norinco I did a number of years ago. The silver parts of Gunkote Matte Stainless and the rest is matte black Gunkote. I carried this gun daily for about a year before selling it and I didn't have any of the coating flake or peel off. Dolomite

Which Novak's? If they are anything other than standard black then no. I called around when I was getting ready to coat a pistol with nightsights. Everyone said that they couldn't gurantee they wouldn't bust. The dovetails are one of the places to watch for grease and oil if you can't remove them. But with that said the instructions I gave above worked for me. Also, it doesn't hurt to let the parts sit longer the the 1/2 and 1/2 solution just to make sure they are good. Something I did forget to mention in the list above is to make sure to "stir" the parts a bit in each solution. Here are a few pictures of a Norinco I did a number of years ago. It had tones of work done to it as well as the coating. The silver parts of Gunkote Matte Stainless and the rest is matte black Gunkote. I carried this gun daily for about a year before selling it and I didn't have any of the coating flake or peel off. Even though it was a budget gun it was a fun gun and was dead nut relliable with everything I fed it. Dolomite

Prep is everything with Gunkote. I have used it dozens of times and has turned out great. Use gloves for everything. To keep your skin oils off the parts and to keep potentially harmfull stuff off of you. Here is what I do: Disassemble the parts to be coated as completely as you can Clean and degrease all the parts to be coated the best you can Media blast all the parts to be coated (I used medium aluminum oxide from Northern Tool) Bring a pot of 1/2 gallon water and 1/2 gallon Simple Green to near boil As the bubbles start to form remove from heat and let it sit for a minute or two to allow the temp to equalize Place the parts to be coated in the Simple Green solution and let it sit for about 15 minutes ***Do not breath the steam*** Stir the parts occasionally to help break any oils loose At the same time start boiling some distilled water and turn you oven on its lowest setting When it starts to boil remove from heat and let it sit for a minute or two to allow the temp to equalize Remove the parts from the Simple Green solution and place in the distilled water for another 15 minutes ***Do not breath the steam*** Remove the parts from the water and place them in the oven long enough for all the water to evaporate Remove the parts one at a time, not all at the same time, and coat them according to the instructions **If you remove them all at the same time and the first ones will be warmer than the last ones causing them to look different** Make sure you spray outside though because it is some pretty nast stuff, both smelling and bad for you. After all parts are coated with Gunkote place them back in the oven at the recommended temp for the recommended time. I normally put the parts in then set the temp to the 300 degree temp it requires. Once it gets to temp I time off and hour then turn off the oven and let the parts cool slowly in the oven over the course of a few hours. Because the finish is already dry when you begin the baking process it doesn't emit any nasty smells in the oven. This is the down and dirty way I have done it for the last few years and works great. I have only done handguns and small parts but I have went thru at least 4 cans of Gunkote so far. If you have any quesitons feel free to ask. Dolomite

If you really want to save your brass seperate the FL sizing and the neck sizing operations. Buy a Lee Collet die for your caliber and a Redding Body die for your caliber. It adds a step to the process but it makes destroying brass a lot harder. You use your neck sizing die only until your brass starts to get a little sticky on chambering then use the Redding die to size the body. If the rounds are to be fired out of numerous guns then you will have to FL size as well as neck size every time but by seperating the operations it still makes your brass last a lot longer. The problem with most FL sizing dies is that they shrink the neck beyond what it needs to be then pulls a mandel back thru it. This excessively works the case mouth causing them to crack prematurely unless you anneal. And even if you anneal it can still cause problems. Neck sizing only squeezes the neck down to the right size, not way down then back up. One more thing, look at getting a Hornadt Lock-N-Load die conversion for your press. If you can use the smaller 7/8" as well as the larget 1 1/4" you can use the conversion. It allows you to set your dies once and then you will never have to touch them again. The conversoin is like a quick discconect and works great. I use it on my Lee Classic Cast single stage. It definitely take all the time out of setting up yout dies. Dolomite

We need to get back together some time and throw some more lead. I might actaully have some targets the enxt time you show up. I have let everything go to hell since my accident, including my stand. Dolomite

Do a Google search for them. There is plenty of info on the web about them. A few videos on youtube as well. Dolomite Just spent the last littel bit watching videos and reading about the gun. Definitely one of my "have to get" guns if they make it here.

I am evidentally having issues with my new, as of 5 months ago, Alpha Master or my cast 45 ACP loads. The loads are chronographing a lot slower than they should be, as in 1/2 the velocity they should be. They don't appear to be going as slow as the chronograph is reporting but I need to confirm before I send it off for repair. I have been troubleshooting both the chronograph and my handloads as seen here. Before I waste my time and money sending in the chronograph I would like to fire a few rounds across another chronograph to confirm. I only need ot fire a magazine worth of 45 ACP rounds. I am not new to shooting across a chronograph so no need to worry about bullet strikes. I am willing to buy lunch and/or pay for your time. I will come to you for the testing or if you want you can shoot at my home which is located about 2 miles inside of Grainger county off of Emory Rd. If you can help me out please send me a PM with your number so we can get together. I don't care if I am having a rough day as far as my health goes I will not back out on your time. Thanks Dolomite

I agree that those you have listed were heinous but over the millenia I would be willing to bet that religion was used as a justification to kill more than 1 million. The crusades were a religious war and by all estimates it alone was responsible for over 1 million, although not as high as what you mention but this is but one conflict in time. Now when you consider people are being killed everyday, and have been for millenia, because of their religion I suspect it is far more than 115 million. Dolomite

Taxing it would probably be a complex issue but it shouldn't be. Pay the sales tax like you would anything else you buy at a store. As far as someone growing it in their back yard it wouldn't be a problem if they had the "license" to manufacture it. For those who would never use it just don't pay to get the license to posses MJ. Dolomite

Now that more facts are coming out I can see the problem with what the doctor did. If he didn't call 911 then he wasn't in fear for his life and as such shouldn't have pointed the firearm at the protesters. Also, it is very telling the fact he left the safety of his vehicle and walked to the clinic. I agree that he should have been arrested based on the new infomation. Dolomite

Not since but before I did have a lot of training. Since getting my HCP I do practice the techniques I was taught. I generally spend about 10-15 minutes, or until my wife gets tired of hearing it, daily practicing my draw and firing from a concealed position. Dolomite

It was obvious they were not praying if they were approching the doctor. Also,just because they were there praying doesn't mean they weren't being aggressive or acting in a life threatening manner. Some of the most dangerous people in the world today are those with the strongest religious beliefs, regardless of which religion. Religion is responsible for causing more deaths than anything else in this world. I am not saying religion is bad because it isn't. It is just when the extremists use their religion as an excuse to harm others who do not believe in the same things. It is definitely too early to make a judgement call but I would have to side with the 62 year old doctor. I can see why he would be scared enough to pull a firearm if three protesters where approaching. I do not beleive he would be physically fit enough to fend three individuals who may have been trying to do him harm. Dolomite

Call them and ask. That is what I always do if I have any concerns. Dolomite

People would always say this because it is easily grown it would be impossible to tax it. And it is true, no way is someone going to report it in the same way people don't report internet purchases (which are required) and pay their usage tax. Here are the laws on usage tax in Tennessee. I have thought long and hard about this for a very, very long time. I have always wondered how to tax a product anyone can realistically grow themselves. The best solution I have come up with is not to tax the product but tax the person who is going to be using the product, similar to a driver’s license for those who drive. Make it some sort of state issued ID or license making it legal for the individual to possess marijuana. I wouldn't make it an endorsement on your DL because that would imply it was OK to smoke when drive. It would need to be some sort of issued ID similar to what California uses now for medical marijuana users except a license to use similar to a driver's license. Make no distinction between medical MJ license and a regular MJ license. The only difference would be the fees paid to the state while obtaining the MJ license. If you are caught with MJ but without the required license it should be no jail time but financial penalties. Now if you refuse to pay your financial penalties then it would be the same as any other ticket you refuse to pay. Make the fines 5x the cost to get the ID or license. Also, make it no worse if you get caught 100 times as long as you pay your fines or get a license (No point system). No sense in sending them to jail to cost us money when leaving them free will likely create revenue when they buy more MJ either with or without the required license. Create a legalized supply system similar to how firearms or alcohol are done today. An individual must have a license to posses MJ, a higher license would be required to sell to individuals and yet a higher license to manufacture the MJ. Price the licenses exponentially higher and higher. Perhaps an individual's license would cost $50 annually to possess MJ. A seller would be required to pay $500 annually to be able to legally sell the product. And a manufacturer has to pay $5,000 annually to be able to make it. And the MJ can only be sold to the one below you in the chain, makers can only sell to sellers/dealers and sellers/dealers can only sell to individuals with a valid MJ license. The same tax rules apply for the sale of the MJ as the sale of anything else, no additional "sin" tax. The person buying the MJ will be required to show their ID, the same way we do for alchohol sales. And just for the record, I have never smoked MJ. I can’t because I have broken out in hives every time I have been exposed to it. Because of this I fell I am allergic and may cause me some serious problems if I did smoke it. Dolomite

I used to use 4.5 grains of Clays under a 200 grain SWC as my plinking load. This was a few years ago. Now I have a selection of powders and actually like the power pistol. I know my 6.5 load is a bit on the low side but all the data I can find shows that to be at least 700 fps with a 200 grain cast bullet. I am going to work up some loads starting at the 6.5 grains of power pistol. I'll increase by .5 grains until I get close to max to see how the velocity changes. Yesterday I encased the chronograph in white paper to keep the suns glare down after I was getting high readings. Even doing that caused it to continue to read high. That is why I decided to wait until today to work on my loads some more. Overcast today and I get extremely low velocities. I am still not 100% certain it is the chrono because with factory ammo it reads correctly, if anything it reads the lower velocities wrong but the higer ones are correct. I keep data on every round I load or try and all "control" shots were right on the money from a few months ago. My loads are a bit on the low side but all the data I can find shows the 6.5 PP load to be at least 700fps. Dolomite

It is a Chrony ALpha Master. It was overcast today. Yesterday it was bright and sunny and these same loads were giving velocities of 1300fps-1400fps. I attibuted that to the direct sunlight so I gave up yesterday and decided to wait for an overcast day, today. And now we are here. Dolomite

The unit only uses one battery. I replaced the one that I have been using with a new one. When that didn't change anything I decided to check the voltage of both batteries. Dolomite

After being loaded and then removed with an impact puller the bullet still measures .451" at the base. It is a bit smaller where the case mouth crimps it but above and below that crimp the bullet is at least .451". At 10 yards there are no key holes. Also, I am not seeing any leading towards the chamber which seems to be indicative of blowby that can be caused by a small bullet or low velocity. The cases are showing a good seal with little to no soot around the case mouth. The velocities listed aren't what is happening. I can gurantee that the last shot that registered 84 fps was going faster than that. I seriously doubt the action would even cycle at 84 fps. As I said all tested loads are close to max so there is no way two different kinds of powders are bad, the scale was checked for calibration and it is right on. Also I doubt something that generates only generates 336 fps out of a pistol will generate 1034 fps out of a rifle. I know there will be increases but I doubt that much. I can't remember where I got the recipe for 200 grain SWC but I do remember the max being 6.9 grains of PP. I also loaded trailboss that was .1 grain off of max and got the same reduced velocities. I have used FMJ as well as plated bullets and they are showing the reduced velocities as well. Tomorrow I will try upping the powder charges to see what happens. This whole thing is frustrating because I am trying to get the velocity to about 900 fps but without knowing where I am now I don't want to take a chance on creating too much pressure. Dolomite

It has to be the chronograph. I covered the front with a piece of paper to prevent any unburned powder from causing a false reading. I fired 4 shots and they were all under 200 fps. They seemed to be dropping with every shot. As a matter of fact the last shot was measured at 84.16 fps. All shots cycled the action and ejected the empties fine. I checked the voltage of the two 9v batteries I have used. One read 8.6 and the other read 9.4 so the batteries are good. The only variable that remained the same all day was the chronograph, everything else has been changed. The ammo, weapons, caliber, batteries have all been tried with the same results. The onyl thing the confuses me is that as long as the velocity is above 800 fps it reads fine. Dolomite

I was able to see the impacts at 50 yards, it wasn't 3+ feet low with either 1911's. Based on the possibility that unburned powder might be reaching the chronograph before the bullet I think I am gong to hang a peice of paper on the front of the chronograph to stop any from crossing the screens. If I still see the same results then I definitely will be sending the unit in for repair. Not sure if I am gong to do that today but I will either today or tomorrow and give an update. Dolomite