Dolomite_supafly

Funny, most LE I know will let you sign a warrant against those who stole identity. I know we had to sign a warrant in order for the bank to refund our money. Dolomite

Use a strap wrnech and make sure you put antiseize on the threads next time. Dolomite

You going to have to wait on a new approval or are they making a enw one with the same serial number? Waiting again woudl suck. Dolomite

Something else you could do to help is use a Redding body die as well. It adds a step but it makes factory sized brass without wearing out your brass. The dies that do both in the same step work harden the brass because is squeezes the neck down then mandrels it back out. All this extra work kills the neck and leads to cracks in under 5 loadings unless you anneal. I use the Lee collet die and a Redding body die and I have a lot more than 5 loadings without annealing or anything. Another advantage by seperating the body and neck sizing steps is the brass doesn't seem to grow. I neck sized for a while but in the end I added the Redding body die. The reason is I had a bunch of neck sized brass for a particular firearm then I changed my firearm and had to go through and body size them. After doing that once I decided to neck and body size all of my brass that way they are universal. All my brass is sized the same regardless of the weapon it is to be fired in. When using the collet die set your press to bottom out at the time is sizes the neck. Some people just apply a bunch of force but that isn't a very consistent way of doing it. After all if you are doing 200 pieces of brass you are probably going to be less tired at the beginning. If you set it up to stop at a certain point it will be more consistent which leads to accuracy. If you decide you want more neck tension take the mandrel out, chuck it into a drill and use sandpaper to take a few thousands off the diameter. You may or may not have to reset the die, the last time I sanded mine I ddn't and it works great. If you are wanting to truly minimize the working of your brass, as well as increase consistency and accuracy, do what I did to my Savage. I took a fired case, neck sized then body sized it. After that I loosened the barrel then snugged the barrel down onto the piece of brass I sized. Then I tightened the nut down to lock everything down. This sets the headspace to YOUR sized brass and your fired brass will be worked very little. Another advantage is because it grows very little it will be super easy to size. It grows such a small amount that the brass will chamber in any SAAMI spec chamber even after being fired. The down side is that in most cases factory ammo you buy will not fit in the chamber. The problems that arise from headspace issues is when the headspace is too much, not too little. You can never have too little headspace so long as the round will chamber. I am a huge fan and builder of Savages. There is no other rifle that you can swap a barrel out in 10 minutes and do so without any type of machining. Most smiths charge $300+ to do a barrel install on a Remington while on a Savage it generally is less than $50. I do all my own swaps now and have never had a problem even when using a piece of brass like above. Dolomite

I actually use factory Ruger parts when doing my trigger jobs. My Charger I just sold had the highest trigger pull of any of my 10/22's and it was 2 pounds 4 ounces. My primary 10/22 has a 100% reliable sub 2 pound trigger. Dolomite

10/22's are safe to dry fire. They will not have any indentions around the chamber from excessive dry firing. Dolomite

Plus there is a lot more of a selection of 9mm/38 SPC/357 ammo than there is in 45 ACP/ 45 LC. And if you decide to relaod later down the road components are cheaper as well. Dolomite

They have been around and doing this for years. I can remember their stuff being sold at least 5 years ago if not longer. For most people the savings isn't there but if you have a stamped lower then the savings would be huge over registering several different lowers in different calibers. Dolomite

And if all else fails give me a PM. You are more than welcome to come out to my place. I would be glad to take a look at it and see if there are any glaring issues with it. Dolomite

Here is the first things to check. The hammer spring is retained on the strut by a "C" clip. Make sure the open end of the "C" clip is facing up when it is installed in the gun. If it is facing down it will cause the strut to bind against the trigger housing, slowing the action speed enough that the empty will not clear the ejection port. Most 10/22 malfunctions can be attributed to this, especially if it is a bone stock 10/22. Check to make sure none of the scope rail mounting screws are protruding through and slowing the bolt down. It is rare with newer models but some of the older models had this problem. Next would be to replace the extractor if the gun isn't new. I will often replace the xtractor before a single shot is fired to prevent problems. To help with the standard velocity or subsonic ammo chamfer the rear of the bolt. I do this to all of my 10/22's and they will cycle anytthing that I shoot. If you do this make sure you install a bolt buffer to protect the receiver. When you chamfer the rear of the bolt it increases the bolt speed with high velocity ammo. The increased bolt speed causes additional forces be applied ot the bolt retainer pin and can cause the hole where the pin goes to become egg shaped. And finally, I would try some different ammo. Some 10/22's, for whatever reason, don't like certain kinds of ammo. I have one that would shoot everything 100% of the time except anything made by Federal. If you have any questions at all feel free to ask. I have been building and modifying 10/22's for over 15 years and have probably experienced nearly every problem a 10/22 can have over the years. Dolomite

At a bare minimum you are going to have to file a police report in order the the bank to take it seriously. Also, contact all three reporting agencies to report a possible identity theft. Just because they are only using your debit card for clothes doesn't mean they aren't lining up to buy that new motor home they always wanted. I have had my info stoen on a couple of occassions now. First time it happened I was really worried but now I keep tab on my accounts and credit reports and stop anything as it gets started. My banks is pretty easy going about replacing the money so long as I file a police report. I can say one of the biggest indicators that something is getting ready to happen is a small purchase or attempted purchase. For me it is normally a Itunes purchase for $1 or maybe a dontation to a charity for $1 that starts the process. When they see that they have the correct inof then they either use or sell the info to anyone who wants it. It isn't that big of a deal if you have a decent bank. Dolomite

Even if I buy all the components is costs me less than 13 cents per round to reload. I have been debating on getting into casting my own bullets but have yet to find a relaible source for lead that is cheap. If I have to buy the lead I will buy it pre formed . Dolomtie

Gander is crazy with their price matching. The say they will match any comeptitors prices, problem is they have very few competitors and most are even higher than Gander. Their nearest competitor is Bass Pro but in most cases they are so close that it is a wash. Academy Sports was having a sale on thier Stevens 200's (basically a pre accutrigger Savage) for $179. I called Gander to verify they had the same exact guns in stock, which they did. I asked if the price matched and said they would price match any of their competitors. So I told them I woutl be picking up the Stevens because they said they would price match. They asked who the competitor was and I told the Academy Sports. Their response was they can't complete with Academy Sports' low prices so Academy Sports couldn't possibly be a competitor of theirs so they said they would not price match. Dolomite

If you make it up to Knoxville sending me a PM, I'll toss you a couple of boxes of Federal 711B. They seem to be the most accurate out of my pistol. Dolomite

I will expound on the area in which is was found. The area is a known as a civil war encampment. A neighbor of ours (less than 1/4 miles away) tilled up civil war items the first year he moved into his house and at least one every year since as he puts his garden it. They are documneted as civil war items. As I child I found a stage coach token while they were building the same neighbors house, it too was taken to UT and documented from a time pre 1900. Within 1 mile, as the crow flies, there a place that it is said one side used to signal during the civil war. This is some of the higher ground in the area. Also, being in the military I have a pretty good idea of how someone would set up and protect a front. On one side of the mountain there are obvious signs of fox holes or battle positions. Falling trees can create what appears to be fox holes but the ods of several semi circular sets of fox holes created by falling trees is to much, for me anyways, to ignore. I do not believe there were any battles fought in the immediate area because I have never heard of anyone finding a miniball of musket ball. Not really sure if this helps judging the find my wife has made or not. I will say that unless we find an exact duplicate of what she found it is all specualtion as to what it is. There have been so many things over the years that the eagle has been the symbol on and it would be hard for anyone to remember something exactly like her find without having one in hand. One thing is for sure, it is old and was under at least 6" of soil. Dolomite

I am the OP's husband. The three prongs on the back appear to have been sharp and straight then bent over to secure the piece to something after they pierced whatever it was attached to. And with that I think securing it this way would not work well with fabric or at least thin fabric like clothing. And the prongs are too short for thick leather but could have been used on thinner leather. Also, it may have originally been flat and that it had been shaped by the forces of nature as it was buried under the weight of a centuries worth of decay. Dolomite

So when are you announcing your candidacy for congress? Dolomite

I woudl say carrying a Desert Eagle would help the process of getting into shape. Dolomite

Personally I would rather have to fit each part than have all the parts drop in. It allows tolerances to be smaller which contributes to a gun feeling like it is a quality piece. Like my beavertail, if it isn't depressed the trigger absolutely just barely moves. Most factory guns have more movement than what I have. ALso, fitting the thumb safety allows me to get the tolerance tight enogh that it locks the sear rather than just block it. It is all fun to me too. Even if I ruined a few parts along the way it is all a learning experience. Dolomite

All my AR's as well as all my friends AR's have this done to them. I have a lot of rounds through mine without issue as does most of my friends. It is simple and I even ordered specific items to be able to do this for friends. Dolomite

What I do is preload the trigger. It removes ALL of the takeup without changing any of the parts, springs or making any permanent modifications to the gun. It is also as safe as a factory trigger. It is still as reliable as before with no light strikes or any other the other problems with some of the other high end triggers. If anything goes wrong it will only revert back to the factory settings. Because it is easily reversible I can install it, then if you don't like it I'll remove it. And the cost is spending a bit of time at my place. You can even shoot it here and test it without the need to go to a range. As far as a gasbuster charging handle look at this: Do It Yourself Gas Busting Charging Handle [2009-09-29] - 03DESIGNGROUP You can use black rather than red so it isn't as obvious. Dolomite

But those less frequent lies tend to be over the top. I agree that ALL sides lie or at least spin the truth to fit their agenda, Republicans and Democrats alike. One of the best things this country could do is remove the "D" or "R" next to the name on the ballot. This would hopefully force people to do their own research rather than vote along party lines only. People in general who vote now vote as if it is a "us vs them" contest rather than for the good of everyone. Dolomite

If you have any questions at all PM me your number. I'll give you a call and walk you through it. The process isn't hard but it does require patience. There is nothing that should require anything more than work with a file. Never, ever use any type of power tool when fitting 1911 parts, it will only end in disaster. When doing the radius I use a Ed Brown jig. It gives the same result as yours probably will. Both are hardened so a file will not hurt the jigs. First remove the trigger and all the internals of the frame. After that all you do is install the jig then file from side to side across the jig from every conceivable angle until the file isn't removing material anymore. After that use a sharpie to mark the frame and install the beavertail. Work the beavertail a few times, if you can, then file the shiny areas with a few strokes. Repeat until the bevertail is free moving. Next, install only the trigger into the frame. This is so you can begin the process of clearancing the leg of the beavertail. After that you are going to have to file the leg of the beavertail for the trigger. This is also a slow process. File a few strokes off the front of the beavertail leg, not the top or bottom. Install the beavertail and try to depress it. If it can't depress far enough to move the leg above the trigger bow then remove the beavertail and give the leg a few more strokes. I try to angle it a bit to coincide with the angle of the trigger bow, some beavertails come with the angle some don't. Again, this is a slow process and no power tools should be used. As the beavertail is depressed the leg should rotate up above the trigger and out of its way, allowing the trigger to be depresssed, once it is fitted properly. It should not allow the trigger to be depressed if the beavertail is not depressed. And you should not be able to to pull the trigger and overcome the beavertail, moving it out of the way. When I say slow process I mean slow going and slow as far as time wise. The leg on a beavertail should not take more than 10 minutes to fit. The radius on the frame can take a bit longer though. After the beavertail is installed and working correctly you might have to radius and blend the beavertail into the frame in the area where the web of your hand goes. Some beaveratils fit better than others and some will even pinch you if you don't blend it in. I would recommend shooting the gun before you do any blending unless there is an obvious problem. Dolomite

Ammo quality is your problem, not you or your age. I have noticed a slow, but steady, decline in the quality of rimfire ammunition. It seems the hardest hit is the bulk ammo. Federal was the standard even up to a few years ago but now is miserably innaccurate. Bulk Remington hasn't ever been really accurate from what I remember. Winchester that once sucked now seems to be the top dog in bulk ammo but not by much. I would try some CCI offerings to see if that improves your accuracy. If not then try some Federal Automatch, it has declined since it was introduced but it is still better than most. Dolomite

I can see where he is coming from as far as his views and being a Democrat. Let me say this. In the line of work I do or at least used to do Democrats are a rarity, a lot of our clients were but not the gun toters. With that being said I was speaking with a good friend of mine who happened to be retired SF. He builds AK's, stock piles ammunition, food and whatever else he thinks he will need when the country fails. As we were talking about life he announced he was 100% Democrat and his family's democratic roots could be traced back generations. He went on to say he was registered and received all the mail from the current batch of Democrats. That is when his attitude changed about being a Democrat and he got down right mad. He said he was a true Democrat and not the super liberal ones that are around Washington now. He said he has nothing in common with them other than the moniker of being a Democrat. He can't stand any of them and what they have done to the country. He said he hasn't voted for a Democrat in a few decades even though he considered himself one. I would say he was more Republican, God help me if he reads this, based on his actions than most people on this board. Sounds almost like the OP is like my friend. A Democrat by name but not by his actions. Fundemantally I think we all want to help our fellow man it is just a difference in how we help that is in contention. I have helped a lot of people out but I have rarely just handed it to them. I allow them to to do some minor work for major pay, this keeps the professional beggers away. I had a guy clean off some of my property, took him a couple of hours moving slow then I bought his family a few pizzas and handed him $250. This way it helps them keep some self esteem. I think it might be good to have a Democrat on here, if he has the liveral democratic views. Maybe we can get soemthing out of it. Perhaps a little more tolerance on our part and a little more understanding on his. After all we tend to be intolerant of those who don't agree with us. Dolomite