Dolomite_supafly

Probably the reason for that was that it could be made to meet major caliber while still being a relatively light recoiling caliber when used with a brake. The reason is 38 super had more gasses for the brake to use to dampen the recoil. Without a brake the 38 super and and other caliber at the same power factor are going to be pretty much the same so it was in classes that allowed brakes where the 38 super was king. To figure out whether a caliber or even a load's power factor you multiplied weight in grains x velocity then divide by 1,000. As of 2008 major is 165 or more while minor is less than 165. Prior to 2008 the number was 175. The minimum is 125. I am sure another reason is cost of reloading. Considering serious competitors fire ten of thousands of rounds a year during practice the 38 super could save a person who isn't sponsored a lot of money over the years. Dolomite

How about that trigger finger? Dolomite

Shoots flatter than what? Dolomite

Actually if you look and read a lot of the numbers, as velocity drops penetration goes up. There is a range in which bullets work, too fast the penetration is nill, too slow and penetration is nil. Somewhere in between those two and penetration is substantially more. The reason is at the higher velocities the bullet's integrity is compromised as it hits something and basically comes apart, reducing velocity. On the converse when the bullet has very little velocity and energy it will not overcome the friction and penetrate very far. Between these two the bullet has enough velocity to penetrate but not enough to disrupt the bullet. Some bullet designs penetrate better than others, like a FMJ, but in all bullet designs there is a point where there isn't enough velocity to cause the bullet to come apart and in those instances the bullet becomes a FMJ for the most part and penetration increases. Take a 9mm for example. I was doing some penetration testing shooting 95 grain FMJ's. At 1300 FPS those little FMJ's would travel through several water filled jugs. When I took that same bullet and pushed it to 2000+ fps the bullet never made it out of the first jug. (No it wasn't being fired out of a pistol but a rifle) There were bits and pieces of the jacket as well as the core insdie the first jug. The reason is the bullet was travelling too fast for the bullet's integrity to remain intact. And this can be said for any bullet design, too fast or too slow and penetration sucks, in the middle and penetration increases substantially. Look at this chart (not mine): http://stevespages.com/jpg/bestbullet.jpg You will see the bullets tend to penetrate deeper as the velocity drops off. One (Sierra ProHunter) went from 12.3" of penetration at 3100 fps to over 60" at 1900 fps. This remains the same for all the bullets in the chart, as velocity drops penetration increases. There are a few that have less penetration a step or two down from the top but the less velocity a bullet has the more penetration is increased and not by a little but by a lot. Just something to think about. This is where bullet selection is key. You want to find a bullet that is designed to work in your velocity range. It may take calls to bullet makers to get the suggestions you need but without having an idea of how the bullet is going to perform you are going to be trusting your life on hopes and dreams. Dolomite

Anther thing to consider is the HB will increase the internal case capacity so you may have to up the powder charge a bit to achieve the same velocity as a FB. Always work up and never assume anything when it comes to reloading. People use the HB bullets all the time in 1911's. They seem to say the 185's shoot more accurately than the 230's though. I am having leading issues with my 1911. I use a cast FB bullet that doesn't seal well even though I am in +P territory. I may have to try some HB bullets to see if I can get a load that doesn't lead the bore. I never noticed they made a HB bullet that would work in a 1911 until you asked, thanks. Dolomite

I have, no different than loading brass. One thing I will say is that once you trim and size they tend to stay pretty stable dimensionally. They are super easy to size because they do not grow like brass. You may run into some work hardening issues after several loadings but I didn't see it after about 3 or so. Problem I have with steel is they rust easily. Almost every piece of steel brass has rust on it by the time I pick it up a day or two later. That rust is going to kill your dies. Personally I would stick with brass unless it is a last resort. Dolomite

+1 I do not crimp either. Dolomite

It has been my experience that most women will out shoot most men and only get better with practice. Most men start shooting at a early age and develop bad habits that tend to stick with them for life. Women on the other hand are more mature when they begin shooting and often listen to directions a lot better. This leads to most women shooting better. My wife shoots circles around me, especially with pistol. I shoot a few times every week while she might shoot once every few months. But when she does come out to shoot she wears me out. I have to constantly work on keeping my skills up while heris don't seem to deteriorate. Welcome to the site now get your husband to take you shooting. Dolomite

When mouting the scope rings do this. Place them loosely on the receiver, as in wiggle loose but will not fall off. Place the gun on its muzzle then tighten the rings down. This forces the rings to the front of their individual picatinny slot. This keeps the rings from moving under recoil. If you have the rings at the rear of the picatinny slot then each shot they may move forward, affecting the zero. Next, when mounting the scope snug all the screws down, do not tighten. Then square the reticle to the gun. Then tighten the rings down screw by screw slowly. Do not tighten one screw completely then the next. Again, slightly tighten one screw then move on to the next and continue to do this until the rings are tight, not overly tight but tight. Next, what type of flash hider or muzzle brake do you have? There are certain ones that are notorious for causing accuracy issues. It has been proven over and over again that they affect the natural harmonics of the barrel in such a way to affect consistency. The ammo could not play well with the particular rifle. I would suggest trying another brand, perhaps Blackhills or Federal FGMM. Both of those seem to shoot well with a lot of different guns. Dolomite

Private property owners can ask you to leave for any reason or no reason at all. If they said you have to stand during the anthem and you choose not to then the property owner can ask you to leave. It is his right to ask you to leave his property, it is not your right to stay on his private property. It doesn't matter the reason they can ask you to leave. If a property owner made a rule that you must hop on one foot while on his property it is his right to do so. He can ask you to leave when you refuse to hop on one foot and he is well within his rights to ask you to leave, again for any reason or no reason at all. Now he can't break any laws enforcing his "rules" but he can ask you to leave and you must leave or face criminal trespassing charges, Think of it this way, you invite me to your house. But part of "your" rules while on your property is that I can't disrespect you or your family. I begin cussing and calling every member of your family every name in the book. You have the right to ask me to leave because you are the property owner. Just because I want to stay and continue my actions doesn't mean I can. On private property a person does not have the right to free speech or anything else that might fall under the first amendment. Dolomite

124 grain lead bullets are $52/1000 while jacketed Berry bullets are near twice that at $86/1000. Even Ranier bullets are close to $100 per 1000. It isn't any cheaper for me to use lead or even reload. I spend the same amount to shoot as I did before I just get to shoot more. I have loaded 45 ACP lead bullets to +P leves and still had problems with not enough pressure or velocity. The leading is at the chamber end of the rifling so the bullet isn't obturating enough to seal. I didn't want to push it any harder. That was with 21 brinell bullets. I have started using 18 brinell bullets and am getting the same issue. I suspect if I use a quicker powder it will help seal the bullet better. My next purchase for my 1911 with be 12 brinell bullets to see if that helps. I am just glad the 9mm isn't leading at all. I will be using the same formula from now on in all my 9mm's. Dolomite

My new gun necessitated the small balls. Bought the gun last week. Last 9mm I owned was a G17 and so far I like the Taurus a lot better. I can even shoot it a bit better. Not as good as a 1911 but still pretty good. Dolomite

With lead there is a middle ground. Too fast and the leading occurs upwards the muzzle. Too slow or low pressure and the leading occurs at the chamber end of the barrel. When fired the rear of the bullet should squash out and seal to the bore. If not then the gases pass the bullets and cause leading. I am shooting them out of a Taurus 24/7 OSS DS with a 5.25" barrel. Dolomite

If the stadium owners/managers had a set of balls they could enforce the standing and be quiet during the playing of the national anthem. It is private property so they could easily say stand or you will be asked to leave. If they refuse to leave after asked to then they are trespassing. It is private property and as such the freedom of speech doesn't apply. Now they can't physically make you shut up but you can be asked to leave and if needed forced to leave private property once you have been asked to do so and you refuse. Only on public, not private, property or on grounds that receive public moneys does the freedom of speech apply. I have seen several instances where people have been "ejected" from private property, restaurants for example, for not shutting their mouths. Dolomite

I just wanted to pass on my experience with some Missouri bullets I ordered. They are for 9mm and called their "Small Ball". They are 18 brinell and 125 grain weight. Over 5.5 grains of VV 3N37 they give absolutely no leading issues. I fired a few hundred then checked because I fear lead build up to the point of explosions. To my suprize there was no evidence of leading at all. Once I ran a brush down the bore it looked just like before I started shooting. In the enxt few days I will shoot them across the chronograph to check velocity. Velocity has as much to do with leading as anything. Maybe I can get the same results with other powders as long as I stay in the same velocity range. I have used Missouri bullets for about 6 months now. I still haven't figured out the recipe for my 45 ACP. I has some leading at the chamber end so I need to bump the velocity or the pressure. Dolomite

I go to the farm supply and grab a couple of syringes, nothing big (I think they are 25CC). I dull the needle to make them safer the draw the ATF/oil mixture into it. It makes reaching those hard to reach areas easier. You can also very easily control the amount of oil you dispense. And to keep the oil from leaking stick the needle into a foam earplug. Makes a great stopper. Dolomite

Or rather than use a gasket punch just place the gasket material over the charged case them press down on the gasket material and the case mouth will cut it to size. Or you could use a deprimed case to do several then push them out through the flash/primer hole. When I was doing mine I would prime the case, add a few grains of powder, cut the gasket material using the case mouth, seat it against the powder, charge with walnut media, again with the gasket material and done. With all this talk of bee loads you guys have infected me again. I haven;t made them for a few years but now I am going to have to. Except this time I am going to be using 9mm. Won't hold as much media but should work fine. Dolomite

Selling to a private party is the way to go to get the most money, especially if it is a common gun. Dealers aren't going to give you as much and even less if they already have a table full of the same gun. Follow a few auctions on Gunbroker or on here to determine what is a fair price. You don't want to screw yourself or not sell the firearm. Also, if you have any upgrades on the firearm remove them. Upgrades generally will not add any value to a buyer who will likely customize it to his tastes anyways. Then after you remove the upgrades you can sell them seperately and probably make more than if they went with the firearm. When you say you want to trade for a "new" gun, do you mean new or new to you? If you are wanting to trade for a used, yet new to you, firearm you might be able to work a trade out with another seller. This site is a great site for those who like to trade and barter. You will probably get a decent deal on here even if you do have to pay for a 6 month subscription in order to post your firearm. Dolomite

One thing I will say is this. If you carry a Glock as part of you job I would caution against modifying any other Glock you own unless you can do the same to your duty weapon. And if you don't carry a Glock as part of your job then you probably need to do the same modifications to all of your Glock's. The reason is muscle memory, you have built up a lot of muscle memory in the safe handling of your Glock as well as the procedure for presenting and firing the weapon. When you modify that procedure then you start out fresh again and have to retrain your brain. If you have several of the same type of gun but each has its own procedure to get into operation then you are only asking for problems because your muscle memory is going to get confused. Those problems are only going to come up when time is critical. You will find youself either trying to switch off a safety that isn't there or pulling the trigger on a gun with the safety engaged, either scenario is costing you time. I try to keep all of the guns I might carry functioning in s similar way. I carried a Glock as part of the work I did overseas, because of this I bought a Glock to carry and practice with when I was home to keep my muscle memory intact when not working. When I no longer did work that required me to use a Glock I sold my Glock almost immediately. Why? Because I no longer needed to maintain the muscle memory for working with a Glock. Since then I started carrying a 1911 again. I am used to and practice as often as I can with it to maintain muscle memory. Now I have purchased a non-1911 pistol but it has a very similar layout with a thumb safety. So far my muscle memory hasn't offered too much resistance to the change but if I had to go back to a Glock now I would have a lot of work to do before I felt comfortable again. And before the 1991 vs Glock argument starts I think both are equally good at what they do and it boils down to personal preference. Dolomite

Looking good, are those SOCOM rounds? Dolomite

I actually like, and have paid for, small primer 45 ACP brass. It makes keeping useable primers on hand easier. As far as what to use to load them any small pistol primer will work. I have about 500 pieces of small primer 45 ACP brass as well as the same amount of larger primer brass. Both work equally well. Dolomite

I used a 4'x8' sheet of plywood for a more study place to roll a chair around on. It works very well and lfexes very little. Basically sit the desk on top of it and you will have at least a 4'x5' space to move around on before falling off on the carpet. Dolomite

In europe they embraced using diesel in cars a long time ago. They also have some that have some very nice performance figures, even beyond comparable gasoline cars. We are seeing some here but nothing like what is available in europe. And some of the hotrodders are starting to use the diesel for their performance. Here is a pretty wild example of a diesel powered hotrod from SEMA. Diesel would be a better alternative than the current choices we, as a nation, are pursuing. Diesel cars running on bio diesel would probably be the easiest to transition to and with ease of transition comes a reduced cost. We already have the intrastructure for supplying liquid fuels. Problem with diesel is most people view diesel as the dirty fuel of yesteryear or as the fuel for industrial trucks and equipment, not family cars. Personally I would like to see a diesel sports car come to market here that would "wow" everyone into realizing diesel isn't just for your father's tractor. If hydrogen is a must (I hope not) then use another alternative to generate it. Rather than use a hydrogen fuel cell make a on demand hydrogen generator that is part of the car itself. That way there is no need to generate it before hand and involve other energy producing systems in its manufacture. There are a lot of videos on the web where people are generating hydrogen in the car by splitting water then burning the hydrogen. It is just a matter of getting enough generators in the car to produce enough to run the car. Another problem is the plates used to split the water generally have a realtively short life, as in months. But when you consider the cost of the plates and water versus the cost of gas the plates are probably going to win out every time. Perhaps have the same schedule to cahnge paltes as oil changes to make it easier for people. The biggest problem I see with using hydrogen in any car is that is releases water. Water in and of itself isn't bad but imagine a fine mist of water tht is being sprayed on the roadway when temperatures are well below freezing. Eventually it will lturn into a solid sheet of ice and cause a lot of mayhem. Just some of my ramblings Dolomite

I also use moly grease on most of my guns, especially the guns with full length rails like 1911's. It also works well on triggers because it stays in place pretty well. I have done nothing more than add moly grease to trigger parts on guns and had a decrease in the pull weight. The molybendum disulfide is some pretty slick stuff. I buy mine in the tube at Walmart for around $4 and that tube should last a while even with me cleaning my pistols after every use. I also use a concoction of 50% ATF and 50% sythetic 10w30. It works pretty well as a protectant. It also works to thin the grease if the grease seems too thick for a particular weapon. As far as cleaning crud I generally use either non chlorinated brake cleaner or WD40, depending on the weapon. I make sure to wipe the gun completely dry of either then use the 50/50 mix to protect the gun. I would never rely on WD40 to preotect anything, it is a cutting oil that evaporates and can gum up a gun pretty bad. Dolomite

About as loud as firing just the primer. Generally not loud enough to draw attention although running around shooting a firearm in what appears to be random directions probably will. Dolomite