Dolomite_supafly

While working overseas some of our Afghan guys that could hit man sized steel targets out to 350 yards 7 out of 10 times. This was with 50's era AK's and open sights. We also had quality, brass cased ammo for them to use. It was odd but we always had brass cased Russian calibers. If I could have brought back just the brass it would have been worth a mint. I think the AK's inaccurcays are caused by crappy ammo more so than the weapon's design. After all you feed any rifle crap ammo it is going to shoot like crap. Dolomite

Grease takes care of that or at least makes it last a lot longer. I have had problems with the handle breaking but the handles for the new XR are much sturdier and actually fit the original much better. Dolomite

My offer still stands if you want me to take a look at it. Dolomite

+1 The suspect has done this before. People generally don't go from being a law abiding citizen to breaking and entering. There are baby steps to get them there for most people. I am sure there is some reason why you didn't, probably because you thought you were going to help him out by letting him walk. But in reality you have done nothing but embolden him. He is going to do it again, maybe not to you but to someone else. And when the thief does who do you think is going to pay for what the business owner has lost? All of us, that is who. Thieves cost us all money because anytime there is a theft we all pay through higher prices or higher insurance premiums because someone has to cover the loss. We all complain about the higher and higher costs of everyday items while our dollar continues to shrink. If there is one thing we can do to help offset these we should without giving thought to how it is going to affect the thief. After all it is the thief who is responsible for the outcome not the victim. How would you normally handle substantial losses through theft? File an insurance claim or higher prices until the loss is recovered? The thief is not thinking you were a nice guy for not pressing charges. He is thinking you are an ass for bringing the cops into it even if the thief didn't go to jail. He is also probably bragging about how he broke into your store and you didn't press charges. Who do you think he is bragging to? Other thieves and degenerates so be prepared for a rash of break ins at your place. You can still file charges as long as there is a report. Just because you said you didn't want to press chargs doesn't mean you can't go have a warrant issued still. Doing something to prevent him from doing it again will help us all out as well as him. Maybe next time the thief will be met by someone with a gun and lose his life. Just a few thoughts on the situation. Dolomite

I am sure rods are available from TA. Taking these little engines apart is really easy, less than a dozen bolts to have it in peices. If not new engines are readily available and are really inexpensive when you think about it. Or worst case scenario look on Ebay. I have found some nice $150 engines that sold for around $50 shipped. I don't have 2 gallons through either of them. I recently started using O'Donnell fuel and it seems to let my cars run cooler with a leaner tune. My CEN will drop out of tune when leaning it out before it gets too hot now that I use O'Donnells. I test my temps using the spit on the finger method. It will barely steam after a long run. Dolomite

I seriously doubt there will be any shot counting these days because of all the automatic rifles as well as the high capacity magazines that can be loaded to varying capacities. I load my AR mags with 28 rounds rather than 30, not that 30 rounds is all that bad. I would shorten the distance on the max range. I would say 200 yards would be fine for most engagements we are going to see. Also, I wouldn't want to carry a 1,000 yard gun day in and day out. You are going to have a heavy weighing gun or a heavy kicking gun. And the ammo choices for a 1,000 yard gun are going to be heavy to carry as well. As far as cleaning I have never had to clean a rifle in the dark. Cleaning isn't an emergency situation that requires it to be done right then and right there in the middle of the night. I would venture a guess and say most could wait until light to do it. Immediate actions drills are another but they generally don't require disassembly. Remedial action drills, when the immediate action drills fail, often do require a bit more work but remidial action drills are generally a rare bird these days with the reliable weapons in use. I guess a bolt gun in 30-06 would fit your need although I think it is a bit more than what is needed today. Even a Garand or an M-14 would as well but both of those are very heavy to be carrying day to day. For me the lightest weapon that can fill the likely range is what I would be looking for. An AR or an AK would likely be my primary choice with the preference being an AR. As far as the caliber choice for me it would be 5.56. After all who are we most likely to have to defend from en masse and what are they going to be using? Most agencies as well as most countries in the world that would attack us would now use the standard Nato round, which is the 5.56, so that is what I would choose. An AR would be the first choice as well because of its widespread use. Parts are everywhere and will be available even if they are liberated from a captured rifle. In WWII the Garand was state of the art and the bolt action was the standard. These days either of them are far from being the best choice. I'll take a modern automatic rifle over a botl gun any day for day to day operations. Dolomite

Not really needing anything. After the last couple of major crashes I stocked up on spare parts. I could come close to building a complete car from the spare parts I have. Dolomite

I have had my first one for about 5 years now. My wife bought it after I joked about wanting a Porsche as a kid. I messed with it for about 6 months then put it up. I bought a off road car about a year later. After playing with them for a couple of months I put them up, that was about 4 years ago. I recently drug them back out to play with after realizing I won't be driving any full size hot rods any more. Both are nitro that run on a 20% nitro/ 8% oil mix. My first one I owned is a 1/10 scale CEN Racing 4WD on road car with a .15 CI engine that makes 1.5 HP. It is extremely quick and handles like it is glued to the ground because of the 1/4" of clearance. It has two sets of gears, one for acceleration and one for top speed. With the acceleration gearing it will do 45 MPH and it will do that in probably under 3 seconds when it sticks. With the speed gearing it will top 70 MPH with an unmodified engine. I recently went through and ported the engine to hopefully give it a bit more power. I am still going to try a few more tricks on the engine to get more speed and if not I'll just put a bigger engine in it. I added a fail safe after it got away from me and hit a curb at 60+ MPH, pretty much destroying the majority of the front end. I have started using foam tires becuase this thing will shread the belted rubber tires after a few tanks of gas. With the acceleration gearing it will just spin out if you full throttle it off the line or at least that is how it was with rubber tires, foam seems to stick better and last longer as well as not blow apart from centrifugal force. My other is an 1/8 scale OFNA LX2 off road buggy with a 2.5 HP engine. It isn't as fast as the CEN but it is a lot more fun because it is off road. I would guess it is a 25 MPH car. It is a very powerful car. From a stand still on concrete it will lift the front wheels. Both are very tuneable like real race cars. You can adjust caster, camber, toe in. You can adjust the disk brakes, front to rear, as well as the electronic ABS braking. You use varying viscosities of oil to make the differentials into positraction, the thicker the oil means the less open the differentials are. You can also vary the front to rear torque split by using the oils. You also use differing oils for the shocks to affect their dampening. The CEN has a 2 speed transmission that is also tuneable for the shift point while the OFNA is a single speed. So anyone else have an RC car and would like to get together some time? I have found a very nice church parking lot that is about 10 miles east of Knoxville. Or we coudl meet somewhere else. The downtown parking garages are nice and flat but tend to be a bit slick and for my CEN i can't reach top speed before I have to brake. Dolomite

I can say that there is nothing wrong with the DI system. In the October 2010 issue of swat magazine they ran 26,245 rounds through a BCM EAG carbine before they cleaned it. At the writing they had 31,165 rounds through it. In the July 2010 issue of swat they had a colt 6940 with 15,600 rounds on it without cleaning. It finally had a blowout at 17,600. Based on this alone I would have to give the BCM rifle the nod over the Colt. I have personally fired 3,000-5,000 rounds between cleanings using a work gun in an austere enviroment. It isn't pretty but I had no malfunctions whatsoever. For me cleaining after a few hundred rounds isn't a need but more of a want and that is something I do not want to do so I don't. With my main AR I have fired a lot of rounds over the course of a year and never cleaned it and as a general rule never oiled it. Here is 5,880 rounds of Wolf without cleaning: Cleaning ARs is for nerds. - AR15.Com Archive Not me but someone on ARFCOM. Here is the SWAT article about filthy #14: http://www.bravocompanymfg.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/filthy14_oct10.pdf Something I have always thought about. You always hear of the combloc ammo being dirty. Personally I believe they are more oily than a dry dirty like US made ammunition. Maybe there is a reason for this, to help with lubrication. When using US made ammo people always recommend oiling. But with combloc ammo the residue is already kind of oily. Maybe that is by design. I am and have always been a run it more on the dry side than wet side kind of guy. I rarely oil any of my guns other than for corrosion resistance. I have always used DI systems but I do acknowledge the advantages of the pistol system but reliability isn't one of them. Piston system keep the heat out of the bolt and that is the only real advantage they have over the DI system. I do religiously clean and lubricate my carry guns but I use grease on those rather than any oils. Dolomite

Loose the bipod if you want accuracy. It is like a tuning fork and can negatively impact accuracy because of harmonics. Shoot off bags or anything other than bipods. Also, look at spending $100 for a SSS competition trigger. They are easily installed and maintain their adjustments. I have had one installed on a rifle for close to 1,000 shots and it is as good as the day I installed it. Just don't buy directly from Sharp Shooter Supply otherwise you will wait months for your order and get a lot of grief if you call and ask about it. If you want to wring out the most accuracy possible you need to reload. If not then get some Federal FGMM if they make it for your caliber, it is the gold standard of factory loads. Your results are probably typical for most Savages using factory ammunition. Mine shot around 3/4" with factory ammo it liked but once I started reloading the groups have been under .400". Dolomite

ARFCOM isn't the best place to try to cut throguh the bull crap. A lot of high end fan boys over there that believe the only good AR is the one that cost $3,000. Dolomite

Colt is milspec throughout. Milspec is not a guarantee to be the best, it is a the minimum standard accepted by the government and in no way shape or form makes it the best. There are several other manufacturers that are better than Colt and run in the same price range. Bravo Company has more standard quality components in their rifles than Colt. Their warranty work, if you ever need it, is among the best in the industry. Colt has had problems with the QC as well. How do you think the large pin receivers came about? It is when they screwed up the small holes and redrilled them larger to fix the problem. I know that was in the past but if they have a barrel that isn't true they still bend it into spec which is probably fine until you heat the barrel up again from firing. I have owned Colts in the past and in my opinion you are paying for the name more so than the quality of the firearm. They do hold their value better but other than that they are far from the best. Dolomite

The stock is a B&C Medalist stock. Have the barrel threaded and a brake installed. It will cut down on the anxiety. Dolomite

If 338 Thumper is close to the Spectre I do have some information on it. Nothing much just recommended twist rates and load data using LilGun. The 338 Thumper uses the 223 case cut at the shoulder and as 338 bullet dropped in. NFA (Class 3) gunsmithing and Custom NFA Items from BWE Firearms It seems like a decent wildcat because of the availibility of 223 cases. Anything based on a 223 or 308 case is a plus. My buddy is using a WSSM case as the basis for the AR build to shoot .50 caliber bullets. Supposed to be able to be fired from a AR mag. I don;t have the specifics on it yet but he is stopping by soon so I can fire some rounds. He was working with Olympic Arms for the bolt and other items. Right now he is going around and demoing it to various LE and SOC type folks. Here is another version of a 50 caliber AR: .500 BAAR Mega Xtreme Amazing stuff. It is almost like we have reached the opposute of the velocity wars from decades ago. Now everyone is competing for the heaviest hitting subsonic cartridge. Dolomite

One thing I can say about using pistol powders is use the slowest powder that cycles reliably. Faster powders tend to ruin brass with heavy bullets. I have used Clays and it was by far the quietest but it was a brass destroyer. The pressures peaked quickly and loosened the primer pockets so bad from one firing that primers could be seated by finger and would often fall right back out. I used HS-6, Longshot, 3N38, 3N37 and Trail Boss for testing. Longshot seemed to be the best for me and my 180 grain bullets. With the larger case Trail Boss might work well. It is a fluffy powder so you might get lucky and be able to just fill the case up and seat the bullet. With 155 grain SMK's that is what I did. It wound up being 5.5 grains of TB and worked well but it didn't have enough to work with anything heavier than the 155's. Something else. As pressures increase the burn time in the barrel shortens. That is the more powder the quicker the powder will burn. I know it seems counter intuitive but it is. With my Tokarev loads I was burning up all the powder in under 2 inches. And with some powders the burn length was an inch or less. Let me check I might even have load data for the 338 spectre. I have a bunch of different stuff from when I was doing a lot of subsonic work. And finally don't be afraid to stick a bullet in the bore. But I would try to start on the upper end and work down with a chronograph.They are easily knocked out as long as you realize it before sending another down the tube. I could easily puch them out with a rod and felt about the same as a jag. Now when I did stick 3 bullets in the bore once that was a huge PITA. I had to drill them then use a screw I attached to the rod to pull them out one by one. That took a couple of hours but a single bullet takes seconds. Dolomite

It is the 7.62x25 Tokarev pistol round. I loaded them to subsonic levels with 150-180 grain pills. I use the Tokarev case to load heavy loads at subsonic velocities and fire them out of a Savage. Using pistol powders in a rifle length barrel I was able to get loads that were as quiet as a subsonic 22 lr out of a 16" 10/22. This was without a suppressor on my 24.5" barreled gun. My recent build has a 16" barrel so it is a little louder but still a lot quieter than a subsonic 22lr out of a pistol and 9mm out of a rifle. It was a ½ MOA shooter. The reason for the Tokarev and not the 300 Whisper? Because I planned on only shooting subsonic and in that case the Tokarev has enough case capacity to do that and do it well. The 300 Whisper would be able to push heavier bullets faster but I wasn't looking for that. Also, everything needed to build and reload for the Tokarev is cheaper, dies, brass, and the reamer is easier to find. And the Tokarev uses a .308 bore so common bullets can be used. And finally, in a pinch I can shoot factory or surplus ammo for CHEAP. I have literally fired probably 2000+ Tokarev rounds over 2 years. Some surplus some of my heavy hand loads I use the Tokarev case to load heavy loads at subsonic velocities and fire them out of a Savage. Using pistol powders in a rifle length barrel I was able to get loads that were as quiet as a subsonic 22 lr out of a 16" 10/22. This was without a suppressor on my 24.5" barreled gun. My recent build has a 16" barrel so it is a little louder but still a lot quieter than a subsonic 22lr out of a pistol and 9mm out of a rifle. It was a ½ MOA shooter. The reason for the Tokarev and not the 300 Whisper you ask? Because I planned on only shooting subsonic and in that case the Tokarev has enough case capacity to do that and do it well. The 300 Whisper would be able to push heavier bullets fast but I wasn't looking for that. Also, everything needed to build and reload for the Tokarev is cheaper, dies, brass, reamer is easier to find. And the Tokarev uses a .308 bore so common bullets can be used. And finally, in a pinch I can shoot factory or surplus ammo for CHEAP. I have literally fired probably 2000+ Tokarev rounds over 2 years. Some surplus some of my heavy hand loads. Here is the Savage: I know of people using the same case to push 240 grain SMK's out of an AR. I gave this guy my load data for him to start with. He is shooting 240 grain SMK's. YouTube - ‪L2SAR15's Channel‬‏ Dolomite

I got to looking at the 338 Spectre and it looks just like my subsonic 7.62x25 loads except the 338 is a scaled up version. Here are some of my 7.62x25 subsonic loads: I have had a number of guns built for this caliber, including an AR or two. I really like using a bolt gun for the subsonics. I have a friend who built and is testing an AR that fires 50 BMG projectiles at subsonic velocities. I have been in the subsonic game for a little while and am looking for another project. Might have to look at the 338 Spectre. Dolomite

Won't work with a standard AR lower. The .243 is a much larger round so you would have to use a 308 based system. I have been facinated by the SPR for a while now. I built my version of one on a 16" barrel as well. If I had to do over again I would have went with a 18" barrel and a rifle length system. I used a carbine length system that is covered by a rifle length (12") free float tube. I drilled and tapped the tube for only the rails I would be using and a bipod. Makes for a lighter setup that doesn't chew the hand up as much when shooting without gloves. Here is some good info on the SPR if you are trying to build it true to spec: Mk 12 Special Purpose Rifle - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Mine isn't even close to SPR spec but it definitely is an accurate gun. Mine will shoot sub 1/2" at 100 yards with handloads. Its best 5 shot group so far is .372" center to center using a 69 grain SMK over 24.5 grains of Varget and CCI 400 primers. It is a light load with the velocity being just shy of 2400 FPS but that has more to do with the 16" barrel than anything. The same load in a 26" barrel results in a 2900+ FPS velocity. Dolomite

They both have their advantages. The biggest advantage to a hand prime system is you are not tethered to your press. I reload inside so the weather has no bearing on me but some folks have to do it in their garage or in an out building. It can get hot or cold so anytime you can move part of the operation inside it is a good thing. You can go inside, sit down and watch television while priming. Priming is one of those mindless, boring things you do while reloading because it doesn't need a lot of thought. I also find it easier to go mindless with a hand held primer than a press mounted one. I have several different primers, both press mounted and hand held. The best hand held by far is the older Lee Auto prime. The new XR model works OK but it can be a pain because it steps the primer up a step before seating it into the case. This is so if you set off a primer it won't set off the entire tray. The older model hand primer by Lee doesn't have the step up so it is easier and more mindless in its operation. Also, the Lee is easier to switch between large and small primers as well as the shell holders. I also have the press mounted Lee Auto Prime II, which went out of production a while ago. I recently bought it after a long search to find a new one. It mounts on top of the press like a die and I actually like it a lot. The reason is you can set the primer seating depth to be consistant between all primed cases. This is what I use when I am loading for accuracy because any time you can make every case the same the bullets are going to be more consistant and that leads to more accurate. Not all cases have the same depth in their primer pockets. And even after uniforming the depth some pokcets started out too deep to clean up. This set up negates any negative effects of this. If you are going to be doing a lot of reloading (with 9mm and 45 you probably will) I would say go with a hand held. They are just easier to use all the way around. If you can find an older Lee Auto Prime (not the XR) get it as they tend to be fool proof. If you can't I would still recommend the XR. Also, get a good glove for your squeezing hand. I tend to get a blister when I have primed a lot of cases by hand. I load everything I shoot which for right now is 9mm, 45 ACP, 223. I have also loaded 38/357, 7.62x25 Tokarev, 45 LC and a few other odd ball setups. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I would gladly share any of my experiences with you. Dolomite

To clean brass use Lemishine. It is available in Walmart for less than $2 a container. A container will do thousands of pieces of brass. It works well if you don't want the expense or hassle of a tumbler. I have a tumbler and use it but I have also used Lemishine. Dump your dirty, corroded brass in a bucket. Heat up enough water to cover the brass. Add a few tablespoons of Lemishine to the water and shake to disolve. Pour it over the brass and shake well. Let it sit for about 24 hours, shaking the container every time you think of it. Brass will come out clean enough to reload. Some cases will be pink from the reaction. This doesn't hurt anything. Dolomite

It was at Applebee's. It was in a thread I posted about speaking with them. The sign that ABC required before is no longer posted at the entrance like it was before. The manager may have moved it, she said she was required to have it posted on the property and said she may move it to the broom closet. Don't know if it is gone or hidden but either way it isn't visible anymore. Dolomite

I appreciate the encouragement. Its part of life and I chose to do what I was doing when I got hurt. Even knowing what I know now I am not sure I would change anything, Dolomite

It has been a systematic process that has resulted in what we see now. No child left behind took away the child's accountability in school, the first place most children learn responsibility. At the same time it took away the teacher's responsibility to teach our children. Zero tolerance policies have taken away the administrator's and teacher's responsibility to treat each child as an individual and gear the punishment to suite the crime. Over zealous child abuse laws took away the ability of the parents to keep children in line. First and foremost parents need to be parents, friendships will come later in life. Dolomite

I am on day 5 of this bad episode of being able to hardly walk, staying in bed and unable to sleep. My wife has to help dress me, put my shoes on and help me walk. I went to town today just to get a break but have been in bed since returning home about 2 pm. The trip is probably going to cost me being able to do anything other than stay in bed this weekend. Dolomite

I have stippled several AR grips in the same way. I really like how the stippling feels. You can go as agressive or as mild as you need. I did one grip that would literally sand your skin away but with gloves it would never slip or move. Also, if you get it too agressive you can hit it with sandpaper to tone it down a bit. Yours looks really good and as others have said getting a random pattern is the hardest part. Dolomite