Dolomite_supafly

The Mellow Mushroom in Sevierville/Pigeon Forge area has a sign. I have spoken with the manager and they said the owner put it up. I was going to call the owner but thought it was a waste of time. Dolomite

If you just want to blast using high capacity mags get and AK or you could try to get a high cap mag to work in an AR. But if you can live with 15 rounds there is no need to worry about mags. I built an AR in 7.62x39 and used a 20 round straight mag without issue. It was a older mag without the anti tilt follower which might be the culprit in some of the feeding issues in some of the 7.62x39 AR rifles. The rifle I built had a .308 bore rather than a .311 bore. That made reloading easier and honestly I never had issues shooting the factory AK ammo either. It wasn't as accurate as my reloads but no factory ammo will be as accurate as reloads. I used it as a test bed for heavy, subsonic loads in the 7.62x39 and it worked very well. Dolomite

The 1986 act killed the purchase of new machine guns by civillians. The 1934 act required registration of all machine guns, short barreled shotguns and suppressors. As a side note the $200 we pay today hasn't changed since the 1934 act. Back then that was roughly 10% of the average annual income. What we need is a staunch Pro gun representative to get elected then make the introduciton of the repeal his mission in life. Even if it doesn't pass there would be enough press about it. Hopefully all the gun owners would quit standing by the wayside and actually get involved by calling their reps. We have become happy or at least content with reps who won't vote our rights away when we should be mad at those who aren't trying to get our rights back. Not just gun rights but all the rights we are losing everyday. Dolomite

Or better yet sell us those old, worn out Vietnam era M-16's for 2,500. Dolomite

Problem with abolishing the ATF is it would be replaced. But the new organization would probably be replaced with a less freindly version. I know everybody loves to hate the ATF but as long as you follow the rules you will likely never even talk to an agent. Yes they have had their issues but what group hasn't, civillian or government? At least now we know what we have and what to expect. Dolomite

Mine is a all stanless Form 1 .22 can. I have made it a habit of rinsing the can out evey thousand rounds or so. I generally run it under hot water for a few minutes then give it a shake and rinse. Dolomite

A department's cost for a full auto weapon is going to be even less than our cost for a similarly equipped semi version. The difference between the two is about $10 worth of parts yet we get the marked up version. Because there is a finite amount of MG's in the country that can be transferred their cost will continue to rise. The majority of the $2,500 is probably going to be the biohazard equipment. A department 870 is going to cost less than what we pay as well. As far as repealing the NFA we shouldn't have to. I have watched the video of that faithful day and it never passed. Problem was the Republicans were calling for a real, by name, vote and the Democrats wanted a voice vote. Charlie Rangle, yes the same one who was in trouble for eithics violations, was the speaker of the house at the time of the vote. You can clearly hear the NFA should not have been passed. Charlie then smacked the gavel and declared it became law. They wouldn't even let a person in favor of the NFA speak and waste floor time because no one, Republicans or Democrats, knew it would pass. Yet Charlie declared it was law. That was the day that a $20 Lightning Link started its climb to the current $6,000+ value. This is for two pieces of stamped metal. There is a push by a few who are suing the Federal Government over what happened that day. They have some financial support but the big hitters like the NRA don't want any part of the suit. It is probably never going to get repealed. Even if it was found that Rangle did do something wrong the government will cite the last 25 years as a success. Dolomite

That is great. From a very, very young age my son has always had guns around him. They sat on tables or counters when not on my hip. I think that took the novelty of them away and he views them as nothing more than a tool. When he was young I had left a 1911 out on more than just a few occassions and he never even thought about touching it. This is one of the keys to keeping kids safe around guns. Take the novelty or newness away. Trying to hide something from a kid only piques their interest and when they get a chance they will do something they shouldn't. Because of his constant exposure my son has always viewed guns as a tool like a pair of pliers or a screw driver. He is 19 now and getting ready to leave for his Air Force basic. Although he does shoot he doesn't have the bug yet. In time I am sure it will come. Dolomite

I have tried SSS in several semis and never had an issue. My guns have been worked over to specifically shoot subsonics anyways. One of the biggest problems with the SSS rounds is the ags in the face. Because of the short case they will lose their seal with the chamber earlier than a standard round. When that happens a lot of gas and debris come back into the shooter's face. In shooting them the port noise is often louder than the muzzle noise. I have tried nearly every kind of subsonic 22 lr made in an attempt to find out what is quietest. Although Remingtons tend to be quiet they also have a lot of port noise out of a semi. Same thing with Winchester Dynapoints, a lot of port noise compared to others. One of the few that has very little port noise and is also quieter than most at the muzzle is the Winchester Subsonic HP's. They also work well with match chambered guns. CCI Subsonic HP's are also another quiet round but because they have a higher driving band on the bullet they will not reliably work in a match chambered semi auto. The driving band causes the bullet to stop short of seating completely. Dynapoints are generally subsonic out of 16" and shorter barrels. Out of a 20" barrel they go supersonic about 50% of the time. Not really sure shy but most subsonic rounds are more expnsive than the hypervelocity counterparts. Probably has to do with production quantites. Because they produce and sell more supersonic stuff they can charge less per round. Now that I have the suppressor I built I have noticed a lot more which rounds have port noise and which ones don't. ANd as I said before the Winchester Subsonic Hp's have hardly any port noise nd out of the suppressor are quiter than a nail gun or even a pellet gun. Hitting a 4x4 at 25 yards is louder than the shot itself when fired out of a bolt gun. There is nothing more satisfying than shooting steel and the ring from being hit is louder than the shot itself. The suppressor is the single most fun thing I have for firearms. It is also useful in the fact I can shoot anytime I need or want to without the need for hearing protection. Dolomite

The bullet seater is the easiest thing to adjust. It only affects the OAL of the loaded cartridge. After you get the die set take the OAL measurement of the loaded round and if it needs to be shorter just tighten the bullet seater in the required amount. In that aspect Lee's are the easiest to adjust. Also with Lee's after I get the seat depth adjusted to where I like it I will take a piece of tape and use it to lock the bullet seat depth adjustment in place. Dolomite

This is how I setup my pistol dies and it has worked very well. Remove the loading die or at least loosen it up enough that it will not touch anything. Back out he bullet seater in the die nearly all the way out. Take a piece of factory loaded ammunition and put it into the shell holder. Push the arm down until it hits its limit/ hard stop.. Slowly tighten the seater die down onto the factory loaded cartridge. Stop when you feel the slightest bit of resistance or if you see the arm move at all, even a small amount. Lock the loading die down using the lock ring. Tighten the bullet seater until it hits a hard stop as it hits the bullet tip of the factory loaded ammunition. Your dies should be close enough to be good without any more adjustment. Doing it this way ensures the case mouth isn't overcrimped which is the most dangerous part other than having too much powder in the case. After you load a few dummy rounds drop them into a magazine and see if they will chamber and extract. I can almost guarantee they will. Dolomite

As long as the crease doesn't go all the way through the brass and the round chambers fine I would shoot them up. I will say this though, the picture makes your brass look like they are over crimped. On staight walled semi autos they need the case mouth to headspace on. You need to be able to catch your fingernail on the case mouth to make sure you have enough of the case mouth exposed. If you have too much crimp a few things can go wrong. Best case scenario, the round gooes so deep in the chamber and the firing pin can't reach the primer. Worst case scenario, the overcrimped case mouth is in the throat and the round is able to be set off. The throat will keep the case mouth from opening and releasing the bullet, effectively sealing the case mouth shut. This can lead to excessive pressures and possibly a catastrophic failure of the case and firearm. If you can post a closer picture of the leading edge of the case it would be helpful. Dolomite

Is this the orgininal barrel? If not, have you shot it yet? If it is not the barrel that came on the gun you need to get the headspace checked before you do shoot it. Not all Remington barrels headspace correctly when moved from gun to gun. And getting them corrected takes a gunsmith and some time on a lathe. I would hate for the headspace to be loose and the thing blow up in your face. Dolomite

I bet they, Remington, would sell a ton of bolt guns in this caliber. Build it like their AAC-SD with the threaded barrel except in 300 BLK. Make the barrel a 16" or maybe a 18". Bottom metal would be a great addition as well. Although the AR's are quiet the ultimate is something that doesn't have to cycle, either a bolt gun or some other type of single shot. Or even a gas block on an AR that can easily be turned off and the bolt cycled by hand. This has got my wheels spinning again. $200 stamp for a 30 caliber can, $80 in materials and barrel built for $250. I would use my Savage because I can replace the barrels on it in about 10 minutes. Might need to do that rather than the 9mm bolt gun I was considering. Dolomite

I use mostly Lee stuff and never had any issues. I also use a single stage for the majority of my loading. I loaded about 300 45 ACP on my single stage the other day. It was just easier than changing the calibers on my progressive. I use the single stage when precision is the name of the game. I know a progressive can be as precise but it is about me feeling good about it. I prime my precision reloads on my single stage using a top mounted tool. I can set the primer depth to all one height. It is similar to their Ram Prime but allows you to use a tray to feed the primers. The only thing I do not like about the Lee carbide dies is their decapping system. It is a slip fit and it can give way if you have crimped primers. Other than that their dies are as good as any others. I especially like their collect neck sizing die for rifle calibers. It is the easiest to setup and works very, very well. I also use a Redding body die along with the neck sizing die to bump the body back into shape when I need to. One more tip for you. As far as media goes use walnut, cleans quicker than corncob and for me cleaning is more important than looks. Go to a pet supply store and buy the Zilla brand lizard litter. Make sure it is the desert blend. The reason is it is very fine walnut media. It does not get stuck in the flash holes of the deprimed cases. It also cleans very well and if you add a squirt of car polish to it your brass will come out very nice. Make sure you add the polish about 15 minutes before added the cases or you might get a glob stuck inside a case. And it is cheap at $7 for a 10 pound bag. Which Lee Press do you have? I have had the Lee Breechlock and it was a good press for the money. It is what I started out on. After several thousand rounds I went to a Classic Cast with the Hornady Lock-N-Load conversion. It is similar to the Breechlock setup but is much, much easier to use. Have you bought your powder? Which powder are you using? I like Lee because anytime I have had an issue they took care of it. The only thing I do not like is their new XR hand primer. It is a pain to use. Luckily I still have an older Auto Prime hand primer so that is what I use when I have to hand prime. Dolomite

I would like to see the internals and specs before judging. There are a lot of things that can affect supressor performance. Baffle design, bore size, materials used as well as the size. And I would consider a take apart suppressor a must for a rimfire. If not take apart then 100% stainless steel. Aluminum is fine but I would not buy one made of 6061 as it tends to be really, really soft. There are several makers using stainless to make rimfire suppressors based on their aluminum cans and those SS cans aren't much more. And considering this will be a lifetime purchase I will say this. Buy something that is proven, even if it is a little more. Although a $150 suppressor might seem like a deal it may not be if it isn't as quiet as you hoped or the materials are not up to par. Maybe they can demo one of their cans at their shop for you. If it is truly quiet it should not be a problem walking out back and shooting into the ground. Think about it. Most suppressors that get purchased stay with the person to be passed down to heirs. People are more likely to sell their home than a suppressor they own. A funny story, a friend of mine bought his first suppressor a while ago (not Mohark but a no name). It was cheap and he had it for a long time. He said he really liked it but being his first suppressor he wasn't as knowledgeable as one would have hoped in making a lifetime purchase. One day he diecided to clean it and there were no internals. Just a tube with two endcaps. He said the supression was good. I tried the same thing as I was building mine. It was hearing safe but in no way as quiet as it is now. If you want I have all the dB measurements of all rimfire cans as of a year ago. I can email those specs to you, they are in excel format. It was this list that I used to build my can. I took the quietest can and weighed that against ease of machining. I wound up using SS through out with K baffles. And as you have seen it is a quiet can. Dolomite

I would do this before spending $300 for the dovetail service then another $65 for the sight itself. It is what I have done to every pistol I own and it works absolutely wonderful. Because it already has a white dot there should be a recess in the front sight. Buy an appropaite sized drill bit, I normally use a size that looks to be one size smaller than the dot. Then, by hand, drill the white dot out. If it is just barely a dimple then continue to drill it out by hand until the hole is as deep as it is wide. It doesn't take much and if only the dot needs to be removed it takes a minute or two. If you have to drill the steel it generally takes me about 10 minutes by hand. DO NOT USE A DRILL!, it is too easy for it to get away from you. Next take some two part epoxy, I use the 1 hour stuff. Mix it up and add some of the glow in the dark pigment that is available online. Mix in enough that it looks like a green glob that smooths out after about 20 seconds of sitting. Now take a toothpick or something similar and dab a small amount in the hole. Allow it to settle for a minute or two and it will look like a small smooth dimple. If it sinks flush with the hole you need a little more. After you get a nice rounded dab of the epoxy and glow pigment mixture sprinkle more glow in the dark pigment on the still wet mixture. This gives it even more glow in the dark properties and helps crust over the dab to keep it from sagging easily as it dries. It also makes the dot have more of a matte finish so if shooting in sunlight you won't get glare. During the day the green is light enough that it is as good as a white dot. Now set the pistol to where the dab will remain level with the ground for a few hours. The two part epoxy is impervious to most solvents you might use on your gun. As a matter of fact I use brake cleaner and it hasn't affected it in anyway. Walmart sells drill bits individually so you can get those as well as the epoxy there. For the glow in the dark powder I only use this: Ultra Green v10 Glow in the Dark Powder - 1/4 ounce has done at lest 5 guns for me and I can't tell I've used any so far. Do not buy the glow in the dark paint from them. All it is mixed with is clear fingernail polish and most solvents will break it down. I did and wasn't impressed so I went back to the epoxy. You might be able to find the glow pigment a little cheaper on Ebay but beware of imposters. Now when you use your gun in lowlight all you need is a second or two of light from the flashlight and the dot will glow long enough for you to have resolved any problems. I know mine will stay "bright" for 10-15 minutes then begin to fade. It is still visible for a few hours but all it takes is a second to recharge. Just figured this might be a cheaper alternative for you. Or at least to see if you like having night sights on your pistol. At the most you should have $25 but in most cases you can get everything for under $20. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I have used the epoxy method with titanium dioxide (the whitest substance known to man) on a lot more than 5 guns. It makes for a really, really white dot that will not yellow or break down. Dolomite

Predator Custom SHop · Predator Custom Shop · 3550 Papermill Drive, Knoxville, TN 37909 · Phone: 865-521-0625 · sales@predatorcustomshop.com · Gunsmith Hours: Tu-Fr: 8-4, Sa: 10-4 · Gunsmith: Bob Howard

What sizing dies are you using? And one more tip on getting you brass clean, especially without a tumbler. Go to Walmart in the cleaning section. Look for some stuff called Lemishine, it is less than $2 and will last a long time. Add a teaspoon or two to enough hot water to cover all of your brass. Shake it up to disolve it good then pour it over your brass. Let it sit for a day and every time you think about it shake the container a little bit or swirl with your hand to mix things up a bit. The next day drain the container and do a couple of rinses with clean water. Then lay the brass out to dry for a day. Some brass mind turn a little pink, this is completely normal and will not hurt anything, ecept maybe your ego if you show up at the range with the pink brass for all your friends to see. Dolomite

Now if you add the .006" and seating the primers .005" deeper than normal that takes away .01" from the firing pin strike. And in some guns that is enough to go from a reliable gun to a unreliable gun. I wouldn't worry about the .006" variance but I would also make sure to seat the primers flush with the case and no deeper. I use every piece of brass I can find. All makes and never worry about OAL. On a straight walled case you will probably lose it or loosen the primer pocket before you stretch them a noticeable amount. Dolomite

Now I find this offensive! I do, without a doubt, wear the pants in the family. Dolomite *She lays out the pair she wants me to wear every morning.

5/8-24 is the standard for 308 caliber guns. As far as a competent gunsmith I can't recommend any in your area. I will say that this would be a cakewalk for Predator Custom SHop in Knoxville. I am not affiliated with them in any way. They have done a lot fo work for me over the years and all of it has been perfect. They are also one of the more reasonable "custom" shops around. Dolomite

I wouldn't worry about going below the minimum as the case headspaces on the shoulder. It is the excessive headspace that will cause issues. I routinely have brass that measures at 1.745 and never gave it a second thought. As long as the brass will hold the bullet there is nothing to worry about. Dolomite

With bullets, especially rifle bullets, there is a happy medium where they work the best. Penetration increases as velocity drops at least to a point. I have viewed charts were Sierra Pro hunter bullets have penetrated over 60" (that is over five feet) when the velocity got down into the 1900 fps range. Now that same bullet only went 12.3" when at 3100 fps. And most modern hunting bullets act the same. The reason some work better than others is bullet design as well as velocity. Bullets are designed to work within a certain range of velocities. If you get out of that range performance tends to go bad quickly, either too much penetration or too little. With that being said the 220 grain SMK's are probably stabilized to a point where they will not tumble and do not have enough velocity to cause them to come apart upon impact or inside the target. So the only thing they can do is just pass throguh without causing a lot of damage. Now if you push SMK's beyond their upper limits they will come apart very violently because of their thinner jackets. The 110 grain V-Max bullets on on the other hand are designed to come apart more readily and probably at a lower velocity. They were likely travelling within or at least closer to the velocity range it was designed for. It is all about bullet design and velocity. I have done a lot of testing on subsonic 308 bullets. Using various weights as we were trying to find a reliable HP that would expand at the subsonic velocities we were working with. We couldn't find any then a lightbulb went off. We decided to slow the twist down to a point where the bullets would tumble upon impact but would be stabile enough for flight. Using a 10 5/8 twist barrel shooting 180 grain Sierra Pro Hunters at subsonic velocities (~1050fps-1100fps) they would tumble between 6"-10" of water. And in the process cause damage that was substantially more than the same load out of a faster twist barrel. The V-Max rounds exploded in the pumpkin while the SMK's didn't because they were travelling beyond the limits of their structural integrity. As a result the V-maxes were able to dump more of their energy into the pumpkin than the SMK's. It is not without issue though because I can also assure you that the V-Maxes have a lot less penetration than the SMK's. It is all about what you want to do. the 300BLK is going to create a revolution in subsonic friendly bullets. Once it really takes off, which it has already for the most part, manufacturers are going to see a market for subsonic friendly bullets and begin selling them. Dolomite

The 300 BLK was designed to be a subsonic round from the get go. Never was it meant to go super but they did make some factory supersonic loads. They also took into consdideration ease of use. You can use the same mags and get the same capacity in thos mags. I would liken it to the 7.62x39 as far as energy levels and velocity levels. I have loaded the 7.62x39 with heavy projectiles in an attempt to do the same the BLK does. This was before the BLK came to market. Worked well but I had to handload. With the BLK it is not required to handload anymore. Dolomite