Dolomite_supafly

If you want to see what is in the kit spend $13. As everyone has said it is worth the money. Thanks Dolomite

Rather than move the targets to you why not practice moving to the targets, shooting them as you go? It is easier to setup compared to the equipment needed to move the targets towards you. Also, you moving and shooting is more realistic than standing there waiting for the "zombies" to come to you. This because you should always be moving when in a fight. Standing still makes you the easy target for your enemies. Moving targets towards you while you are stationary is pretty easy compared to you moving while shooting at stationary targets. The fatigue of running as well as the ever changing distances, sight picture, firing positions all adds to the realism as well as adds stress to the training. Any amount of physical activity will pronounce any weaknesses you need to work on. Add in a few dummy rounds to make it even more realistic. Even timing yourself can create some stress during training. What I would do is set up targets at various distances and "run and gun" my way down. The course would normally be 100 yards long but could also be as short as 25 yards. I would set up some barrels or barricades to practice firing from or around. It also lets you practice things like getting behind cover during mag changes. Even if you don't have barrels or barricades you can use lawn chairs, any barricade will work. And believe it or not but you can even practice all of this without firing a shot if it came down to it. Setup a mini obstacle course in your backyard and practice moving with your gear on. Even if you never fire a shot you can still get a lot of practice in. How you move during a fight is going to be the same regardless whether you fire a shot or not. Sight alignment and sight picture while moving is going to be the same. Most training starts with dry runs where a shot is never fired. It is only after a lot of dry runs the live fire practice begins. But if you do this make sure the weapons are unloaded and the ammunition is no where close. Remember, train as you would fight otherwise you will end up fighting as you train. Dolomite

I've been meaning to make a tool for installing those. It just slipped my mind with the holidays and my son's graduation coming up in January. Dolomite

I haven't decided on what I am going to do yet, it depends on whether I can find a Remington 580, 581, 591 or 592 for a project. Dolomite

Depends on the Bushnell and the Leupold but yes there are some Bushnells that are better than some Leupolds. But yes, a Bushnell 3200 is better than a Leupold VX-1 any day of the week. The biggest reason Leupold has the following it does is because of their warranty. Their scopes are no better than other scopes in similar price ranges. The VX-1 is Leupold's budget scope and it isn't as clear as some other scopes that are priced cheaper. I have looked through several Muellers that were way better than any VX-1 I have looked through. I would even say some Muellers are just as good as VX-II's when comparing optical clarity. I have a Hawke Varminter scope that looks and performs just as good as any VX-1 I have tried and it does it for less. Dolomite

Made it live: And yes I found it funny as well. Dolomite

If they were out of spec it is probably from the build up from either annodizing or coating. If they seem tight, which is a rarity, I just muscle them in because the pin does give some as does the aluminum. Afterwards you will, without a doubt, know the pins will not back out. I have found the roll pin punch made specifically for the bolt catch makes life so much easier. It is the one with 1/2 the shaft missing to clear the raised portion on the magwell. Without the correct punch the pins can be hard to get started or get in. I suspect the holes were not out of spec but they probably felt that way to you because you are relatively new to the platform and have no comparison. They do take some effort to get them to go in otherwise they would work loose. And that isn't meant to be a hit on you because the first few lowers I put together I thought the same thing. Now that I have dozens of builds under my belt I know they just feel that way. Dolomite

+1 The RDIAS goes under the rear lug of the upper receiver. No need to drill any holes in the receiver. If you do drill the holes for the FA parts in your receiver you are in possession of a MG even if you do not have the aprts installed. Same as with AK's that have the pin holes for the FA parts. The RDIAS can be swapped between guns providing the RDIAS is what is registered, the parts are present and the lower is a low shelf lower. You also need ot make sure the bolt carrier is RDIAS friendly otherwise you are going to have to have it milled. Dolomite

I found what looks like an old portable nurse's station or portable work station at KARM a few years back. It is very sturdy but the best parts is it has wheels that lock and it has its own power cord. I have one plug and then the rest plug into the station. It is about 4 feet long and only 24" deep. It has adjustable table top height as well as a top shelf. Similar to this except with mine being more heavy duty and having a top shelf. Not-Desk | Flickr - Photo Sharing! It works really well and even though I don't move it a lot it would work well for someone who needed to move it around. If I get a chance I'll post pictures of mine later. Dolomite

Here is my setup. It is cheap and works really well: L-R: Lee Case Trimmer Outside Chamfer Inside Chamfer Flash Hole Uniformer And up front is a 223 case in a Lee holder for the Case Trimmer. I drilled and then taped the holes in the "U" channel for 8-32 screws. Then screwed the tools into those holes. I can easily replace the rod in the trimmer for different calibers as well as adjust the flash hole uniformer. When I am working my cases I go from left to right and then back again. If they are cases that have already had their flash holes uniformed I put a brass bore bruss in place of the uniformer to clean the necks. It takes me 10-15 seconds per case to complete them. And another 5-10 seconds to swap cases. So each case is done in 30 seconds or less. I can also mount it but I generally just old it in my left hand and have a small lightweight electric screwdriver in my right hand. Using a electric screw driver rather than a electric drill makes it easier to see a problem coming before it becomes a problem. When I used to use a drill it would sometimes get away from me and take too much off with the chamfers, ruining the case. As far as sizing cases go it depends on the setup but most sizing dies require that they be bottomed out on the shell holder to properly size the cases. I know it is required with straight walled pistol cases. With rifle calibers I seperate the sizing steps. First I size the body then I size the neck. This keeps the brass from work hardening and helps it last a lot longer. The rifle sizing dies that do it in one step are the worst for work hardening the brass. Back when I used them I rarely got more than 4 loadings out of a piece of brass without either getting cracks or having to anneal. Since I seperated the steps I am getting a lot more. One some of my brass I am well over 10 loadings with no signs of cracks or problems. Dolomite

I would caution against storing any reloading equipment outside, even if it is in a storage area. The humidity can cause your stuff to rust pretty quickly. Now you can make sure you have everything oiled down to minimize it but their still is a chance. Dolomite

One mroe way to tell is the bolt handle angle. A standard Savage's bolt hangs straight down whiel a Axis/Edge will have a rearward angle. Dolomite

That is a Savage Axis/Edge. They were made to compete with the Remington 770 as well as the other "budget" centerfire rifles on the market. I can tell by the stock as well as the port configuration. The Axis/Edge will have an eclosed bolt while any other Savage will have an exposed bolt. Another give away is the bolt handle will have holes in the handle, almost like lightening holes. Although they are decent rifles they are not worth $400 even when brand new. Especially considering they sold for $250 or even less. Even today they can be had for under $300 brand new. If I was gonig to plop that kind of money down I would buy a Savage/Stevens 200. Much better rifle that accepts "normal" Savage parts. They can be had for around $350 new. Dolomite

SOLID COLORS GUN FAMILY SET – myloudfamily $7.95 shipped. Dolomite

NcStar optics are junk, plain and simple. You are going to waste your money saved by sending it back for repair or buying a replacement. I am not saying you need to spend a mint ot get a decent scope but NcStar is on the bottom of the list of quality. I personally would put the Muellers at #3 but other than that the list is pretty accurate. This was done by SWFA back in 2008. Dolomite

And before anyone screams I am bashing LE I am not. I support my local LE as much as I can. I offer any help I can to them. They have equipment I have given them so they can be safe and effective at doing their job. What I do bash is idiots or those who act like idiots. If you are acting like an idiot I will be critical of you and your actions regardless of what profession you hold. And because I have spent a fair amount in LE I have the adantage of seeing both sides of the fence so I know what should be acceptable and what should not. And if the victim's acount is accurate the officer's actions are not acceptable. Dolomite

First off when is jumping out of a vehicle against the law? Especially when the officers did it first. It was the officers that escalated the situation at every level from beginning to end. Even prior to the firearm being drawn they made several steps first that did escalate the situation. The officers tried to force their way in front of the victim first. Then the officers flipped the victim off first. Then the officers exited their vehicle first. And then the officer drew a firearm. And now it is the victim's fault because he did not let the offices out or because he returned a gesture or because exited his vehicle after the officers did. If one group exits their vehicle and another party does the same then how can you say one needs to be handcuffed and one doesn't when both acted the same. It is because a lot of officers feel they live by a different standard. I know this because I worked in LE for 1/3 of my life before leaving the industry. Officers will jade reports and bear witness in order to achieve the intended outcome as well as protect themselves. And they are not questioned because they are assumed to be better people, both morally and professionally, but honestly they are no better than anyone else. We need to realize officers are just like the rest of us. They are not infallable and do make mistakes, lie, cheat, steal, and break the law. The difference is they have their fellow officers to do the same in order to cover for them. I am not saying all officers are bad just like not all civillians are bad but a bad officer can get away with it more reasily than a bad civillian. There is a reason why the officers are not making any statements. It is because they want to see if there is indeed a video. If no video is present their "song and dance" is going to be they felt threatened. And at that point the victim is going to be charged in order to divert blame. Dolomite

I called and asked about a replacement guide rod. They never asked if I was the original owner and sent out 3 new rods with the recoil springs. This didn't cost me a cent. It is my wife's gun and we paid $283 out the door for it. That included tax and the TICS. So far we have about 150 trouble free rounds through it. I did not do a single thing to it other than grease it up to that point. I did decide to go ahead and polish the feed ramp but it didn't need it. Dolomite

For the money this AR has more features that the M&P. Although these same features, like the two stage and Hogue grip, can be added to the M&P they are not included in the M&P. It also has the midlength gas system which provided the reliability of the carbine length gas system without the stresses on parts like a rifle length gas system, the best of both worlds. Dolomite

The reason why they are offering the 7 twist is because that is what people are wanting. People want what the military is using so that is why it has become so popular. Not because it works better for most people. Most people will never use bullets that require a 7 twist barrel to reach its full potential. I would be willing to bet that 99% of AR shooters use 55 or 62 grain bullets with the lion's share being 55 grain. And neither of these need a 7 twist. Firing a 55 or 62 out of a 7 twist only oversabilizes the bullets, preventing them from tumbling. And I would not want a 7 twist considering as velocity drops so does the performance with the 55 or 62 grain bullets. The reason why the 77 grain is the best in that PDF is because of the twist rate. As I said the current issue 7 twist barrels are overstabilizing the 55 and 62 grain bullets being used over there. This is why we are hearing of its poor performance. In order for FMJ bullets to perform well they need to tumble and too much twist prevents this, especailly as velocity drops. The 77 grain bullets are less stabile than the 55 and 62 grain bullets so the 77's are going to tumble more readily and thus give a performance increase over the 55 or 62 grain bullets. Take the 55 and 62 grain bullets and fire them from a slower twist barrel and you will see a dramatic improvement in the results in the gelatin. As Mike said we as civillians can choose other types of bullets. These can improve the performance of the bullets regardless of twist. And I would choose one of the TAP or V-Max offerings in the 55 or 60 grain weights. And although I hope it never happens you need to plan for the worst case scenario. In a time when you can't buy ammo and can only loot or take it from enemies what weights are gonig to be the most prominent? Most likely either 55 or 62 grain. Just like today in our military the majority of the ammunition available is 55 or 62 grain bullets. And with 55 and 62 grain bullets the 9 twist is a better choice 7 twist. The biggest reason is you only pay for what you want. Most people who buy an AR end up changing the gun so that means they have to spend even more money if they buy a factory gun. Now on the flip side if you buy a factory gun you have a large company to support you if anything ever goes bad. If I was going to buy a factory built gun today it would be the M&P15 Sport. As a matter of fact as a builder I would still buy it because of the features it has for the money. It has the 5R barrel, which is a good thing, and a MPI tested bolt. The barrel is also melonite coated which is supposedly longer lasting than chrome. These features would normally be found on higher end gun and not a sub $700 gun. It is a good foundation gun for a person to grow into. Because it is built to the current standard anything and everythign can be swapped out to fit the shooter's needs. It also comes ready to shoot with a rear sight. Dolomite

Call PSA they can probably build you what you want. And Seaslug is right, for 90% of the people out there they will not see a difference between a 7 and 9 twist. Punching paper isn't going to show a big difference. But as Seaslug said, on biodegradeable targets the heavy bullets going slow with a fast twist are not going to perform as well with a 7 twist as out of 9 twist. And people do shoot the 77 grain bulelts out of 9 twist barrels. If I was going to shoot those I would use the 9 twist over a 7 twist because they will tumble upon impact with the target. I just prefer the 9 twist because the bullets are more likely to tumble in soft targets than a 7 twist. The 9 twist can shoot heavy bullets just fine as well as the super lightweight ones which the 7 twist may not. The 7 twist has a reduced velocity compared to a 9. And with a 16" or shorter barrel the heavy bullets aren't going to get pushed to a point where they will come apart upon impact and with the fast twist they will not tumble. And when you consdier most of the bullets that you are going to find in a SHTF situation ar 55 or 62 grain the 7 twist is way too fast. Even 9 twist is a bit too fast for 55 or 62 grain bullets but it is still better than the 7 twist. I know you plan on using it for paper punching but you need to realize it may be called upon to perform other roles. And considering the majority of the bullets you are likely to use are 55 grain. 55 grain bullets will shoot fine out of a 7 twist but they will not tumble as readily as a 9 twist. If the bullet isn't coming apart because of reduced velocities down range you at least want it to tumble. Otherwise the wounds are going to be about like a 22 lr. Here is a good read on the subject: http://www.texassmallarmsresearch.com/TechInfo/556Performance/556Performance.pdf Read this for some more detailed explanations. It has velocities and the lieklyhood of the bullets working how they are designed: http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/long-guns/65901-entry-level-i-e-economical-ar-complete-upper-4.html#post827704 Either way it is your choice. There are thousands of 7 twist guns out there wokring well as well as 9 twist guns. Dolomite

Do not buy a pinned upper for your first gun. The reason is it is a pain in the but to change anything without having to dremel parts off. The front gas block is essentially permanent as well as anything behind it like the delta ring and barrel nut that holds the barrel in place. In order to change anything you need to dremel off the gas block. This makes is a requirement you buy a clamp on gas block. You could also drill, file, grind your muzzle brake off yourself. But if you do that you need to find someone to dril, pin and weld the new one in place. Most gun shops aren't equipped to weld so they send it out which adds cost. Anyways you shake it changing stuff on a pinned gun is a pain in the butt. And then you need ot refinish the weld. I would buy a 16" gun that way you can change things and set it up how you like it on your own. No need for a smith, just a few tools and some time. As far as the barrel itself buy a 9 twist. It will shoot anything a 16" gun should be using. I shoot 69 grain bullets out of mine and they work great. You can alos shoot the lightweight varmint bullets in a 9 twist. Those varmint bullets may come apart in a 7 twist gun. I know because they come apart in a 7 twist bolt gun I shoot. PSA's specs look as good as BCM's. I wouldn't have a concern using PSA parts in a build. The standard buffer should work fine with your setup. Or at least try it before you buy. You are more than welcome to come out and see how mine are now set up. That is the great thing about AR's. They are so easy to change that is unless you have a pinned flash hider. Dolomite

Here is a view intersection (hit the bird's eye button): Bing Maps - Driving Directions, Traffic and Road Conditions The Waffle House is on the left of the the screen (has the tractor trailer in the parking lot). Estep would have been travelling on Weisgarber from the bottom right to the top left in the right hand lane. The officers were attempting to exit the Waffle house parking lot onto Weisgarber and Estep wouldn't let them out. This likely upset the officers and that is how it all began. Not that far fetched because there are times when we, my wife and I, won't let people out either. We have had people get upset with us because we let one car out in front of us but won't let the next. Dolomite

If you already have an AR buy a dedicated 22 upper or even a conversion kit. CMMG makes a decent one for a decent price. Even if you don't own an AR I would get one that can accept a 5.56 upper later on. The S&W cannot accept the 5.56 upper. I have used a kit in a 5.56 upper and it worked well. I had well over 15K rounds through it before I built my dedicated. The dedicated has well over 5K through it now without any issues. Dolomite