Dolomite_supafly

I have seen more than 1 500 S&W that can't keep a scope on it. The scope moves forward after a few shots. The answer? Epoxy the scope inside the rings. That was the answer given to a shooter when he called to find a solution. I can't remember if it was Leupold or S&W that gave him the advice. The owner sold it rather than ruin $350 worth of optics. For that reason DE would be my choice. Actually I wouldn't own either. Dolomite

Replace the first spring with a 16 pound 1911 spring and it will help a lot with the low brass stuff. That as well as blend and polish the bottom of the bolt. You will be able to shoot 90% of the cheap ammo out there. Remington is about the best "cheap" shotgun ammo. Federal and Winchester seems to be lackluster. Some people swear by the auto plug and some just swear at it. Personally I like the factory plug. You have 2 adjustments, low and high. And mine will run every low brass round I have ever tried on my low setting now. And on the high setting it will run most low brass and all of the high brass stuff as well. And it does this without any impacts. Dolomite

The charging handle drops into the slot in the top of the safety after it is pulled to the rear. Dolomite

I use my BHO to lock the bolt back so I can keep a loaded mag in the gun. Otherwise the spring pressure will squash the first round against the bottom of the bolt. And after it gets squashed it will not chamber. Dolomite

When we bought our truck about 3 years ago it wasn't a month and someone had hit the front bumper damaging it. Worst part is they didn't stop. Within 72 hours we had are first door ding. And finally someone backed into the rear bumper and put a baseball sized dent in the quarter panel underneath. Again no one claimed fault. I hate people who do things like this. I was at a Burger King on MIddlebrook when an old beat up truck was backing out of a parking spot. He misjudged and bumped into a brand new Mustang's door with his bumper. Rather than stop he just gunned it and his bumper put a crease down the whole side off the brand new car. It was during lunch time and at least 100 customers saw it happen. Once the driver was clear of the Mustang he just waved at everybody and sped off. Problem was that guy ate at that Burger King every day and a lot of people knew him. One customer even gave the Mustang owner the guys name and where he worked. Dolomite

I mispoke. I just talked to the the person who would know, my wife, and she said it was 2 pounds of cheese a week. A gallon of milk a week and some cereal. I knew it was more than our child could ever hope to eat. We were big cheese eaters at the time and couldn't eat all the cheese we got. Dolomite

That is really cool. They do something similar in Johnson City every year. I imagine sprinting in mud would be very exausting. Dolomite

I ground mine down and rounded it. It never hurts anything now. It is like a 1/2 circle and sits flush when engaged. I did it at the same time I did the conversion. After reading about issues like yours I didn't want to take a chance. Dolomite

To fix the cycling problems just drill more ports. You WILL have issues when you start shortening the barrel. If you start out with the long barrel you can't even go back to 19" without issues in most cases from what I have read. The 19" guns also have issues when you drop inches. The only ways to fix it is either more ports in the barrel or move the gas block back. And more ports is a lot easier than moving the gas block back. I would like the barrel to be ~12"-14" providing I don't need to move the gas block. I haven't even measured anythign so I don't know what can and can't be done at this point. Dolomite

I spoke to a local store when someone was using my brother's, who is a big POS, EBT card. I asked the cashier if she asked for his ID and she said the office that manages it said the store wasn't allowed to verify the identity of those using the card. The office said that if the person using it isn't the the same as the cardholder's name on the card then they must have permission from the cardholder to use the card. The office said if the store asked for ID to use the EBT card they could loose their ability to accept EBT cards for payment. And because the welfare system is big business most businesses don't want to chance loosing those customers. I have told this story several times. There is a lady who comes into the local grocery store where my mother works every month. She buys tuna on her EBT card and not the cheap canned stuff but the expensive kind in pouches. She brags it is for her cats and that she will continue to use her EBT to buy it until they allow her to buy cat food for her cats using her EBT card. And I am not talking about a few pouches but every pouch of regular tuna the store had. She does it every single month and we are all paying for her cat's food. WIC is different and is to help make sure children eat the right things and the right amounts. WIC has its problems too. The biggest problem is the WIC system authorizes way too much food for a child to eat. When I was a private in the Army we were approved for WIC as well as food stamps. I never took the food stamps but we did use WIC for a few months until we went overseas. He was born in January and came over in May. They expect a child to drink gallons upon gallons of milk as well as eat at least 30 pounds of cheese each month. And every item was the same, way too large of portions for the average child to eat. As far as those wearing jewelery you really can't judge people based upon that. Some people might have fake stuff or it might be hand downs from family. I do have an issue with those who buy authorized food using their EBT card then pull out wads of cash to pay for those time they can't buy on their EBT cards. I have seen it more times than I can count, max out their EBT card then use cash to buy junk food, sodas, alcohol and cigarettes. The system as a whole is broke. People are allowed to sit at home and collect a paycheck as long as they do not try to succeed in life. They are given just enough to keep them from losing hope. Personally, if you are collecting a government benefit you need to work. If nothing else pick up trash along side of the road for 2 hours a day or maybe answer information calls to government offices. But the worst thing is to pay people to sit around. And before any mother receives benefits for a child the child's father must be proven so he can replay the government for any support the child receives from the government. I am also a huge supporter of drug testing for those who are receiving any government benefits. If you do not want to submit to a drug test you should not be given any benefits. Most employers these days require them so why should the government be any different. The choice is up to those applying. And if they fail they loose benefits for one month, second offense they loose benefits for 6 months and third time they loose benefits for life. Millions of people live their day to day lives without using illegal drugs so it can't be that hard. And while we are at it, if you have had multiple kids and they have been taken you should be placed on semi permanent birth control until such time as you can prove you can support another child. And if the parents are not US citizens then the child should not be automatically a US citizen if they are born here. If one parent is a citizen then yes but not two, by default the child should take the mother's nationality. Enough of my rant. Dolomite

One more thing. If you want to try before you buy you are more than welcome to try my side mount. I didn't like it on my S12 but you might. If you ever come to Knoxville we can meet and you can pull the trigger on my S12. Dolomite

Are you going to leave those holes open? That looks like the CSS trigger guard so the kit should have included the plastic rivets for those holes. Also, how do you like the fodling stock? Does it lock in the folded position? I ground my front sight off and installed the Krebs iron sights. I like them so far and are definitely more accurate than the factory sights. I, like you, are probably going with a shorter barrel but I think I am going to NFA mine. When I do that I am going to have to add more ports to the barrel for reliability. I have done a lot of work to ensure mine is supremely reliable. It wasn't unreliable when new but I wanted it to be reliable no matter what and it is. Here are some of the things I did. I made my own lightweight dished plug out of 17-4 stainless. It is a much tighter fit with corners that are more square and defined. The plug is about 2/3 the weight of the factory plug and once I hardened it it seems to be working really well. The factory plug worked just as well but I wanted to add an extra US part. I also replaced the first recoil spring with a 16 pound 1911 Gov't spring. I did the glass bolt smooth and polish job, you have the tools to do it because you did the conversion yourself. That helped with cycling more than anything else. It also allows you to insert loaded mags with the bolt forward. I also added the JTE hammer/trigger spring. And after a nice polish job on the trigger and hammer mating surfaces the trigger is amazing for an AK. It still does have a lot of take up but that is the AK. I think the combination of the polished bolt, polished hammer face, new recoil spring, new hammer spring and new plug made this thing amazingly reliable. It has 700+ rounds through it so far and the only problems can be attributed to me trying to make some "cheap" slugs for it. Now I am just going to replace the shot in cheap rounds with 1.25 ounce round balls. They cycle better being .25 ounce heavier and are accurate enough to hit man sized sillouettes at 50 yards. Have you shot it with your new plug? Or more importantly did you shoot it before? Mine ran 100% with the factory plug and after the glass bolt mod it would cycle most, not all, low brass on the high brass setting. If you have any cycling issues a cheap and reliable fix is to replace the first recoil spring with a 16 pound 1911 Gov't spring. This is what I was to was in the CSS reliability kit. If you are going to add any scope do not use the side mount. It puts the scope up too high for a good check to stock weld. If I were going to do it I would use a low mount on a Ultimak rail or maybe even an SGM quad rail setup then mount the optic as far forward as it is comfortable for you. Personally I like having irons on this shotgun. Dolomite

It is too early yet. Probably mid April before they are out in numbers and at a decent size. They can be found earlier but they are generally smallish They generally pop about the same time as ramps. Last year we found over 7 pounds with 5 pounds of them in a single outing. This is a single outing and we literally found all of these within an hour. And before you ask, it is our secret. I have found no correlation between north side vs. any other side. I will say the soil tends to be on the dry side though. And if you see one there always is more within 10 feet. There are two different types, grays and tans. The grays tend to be smaller and more flavorful while the tans get much larger. The most flavorful parts are the stems. It is also better to cut them at the stem and leave the "roots". That seems to keep them coming back. Dolomite

Bergers tend to be the best as far as bearing lengths. Sierras tend to be good for weight and concentricity but not bearing length. To get the same results every time you need to seat and measure at the ogive. I made a seater for my die that has a hole that is .222. That was the closest I could get and still have it work for my dies. And when I measure the loaded rounds by the ogive they are a lot more consistent since I started doing this. What seater die are you using? If it is a Lee PM me your address and I'll make you a new seater stem with a larger hole. The factory I e works great with short bullets but not so well with longer ones. Dolomite

Are you loading pistol calibers? If so find a factor loaded round and use it to set the seating depth and crimp. Make sure the bullets are similar, as in if you are loading FMJ bullets then use a factory loaded round with a FMJ bullet. Same with HP's. If you are loading flat points use a HP with a similar sized hole as the flat on the front. As a matter of fact this is how I set all my dies. I take a factory loaded round and put it in the shell holder. I twist the bullet seater almost all the way out. Then I bottom the press out. I start to screw down the die itself until I feel the resistance then lock the locking ring down. Next I tighten the seater down until it comes to a hard stop then lock it down. If you are using Lee dies do like I do and use some electrical tape to hold the seater in place. This should get your rounds to a safe dimension. You have to be very mindfull not to overtighten the die itself because it can make the case mouth disappear. And when that happens the bullet will not headspace correctly. As long as there is enough case mouth for your fingernail to catch on it you have enough. You also might need to see the bullet a little deeper depending on how the rounds feed if it is being shot out of a auto. Dolomite

Use the Creme, not the liquid. The creme stays put and works longer and lasts longer. I have been using the creme for at least 8 years now and it is wonderful. Every liquid cold blue, including the Oxpho, I have tried has been junk compared to the creme. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1108/Product/OXPHO-BLUE-reg-CREME Dolomite

Starting with the Hughes ammendment and working backwards. Dolomite

When I shoot for groups I fire 10 shots then remove the 3 worst shots leaving 7. Hopefully this will remove inaccuracies induced by me, the shooter. It works well for me and it gives me more shots per group than most people shoot, which is 5. This is for my rilfes, not my pistols. With my pistols I just shoot them. Dolomite

PTSD is very real for some soldiers but I do not believe it is as widespread as what we are hearing about. Just as you said I think it is people looking for something, be it sympathy or money. I think that all mitigating factors need to be addressed before and during his court matial, we owe him that as a soldier and as an American. If he is found guilty after that then he should be held accountable to the highest degree. What he did was heinous and unfathomable to me but he is still entitled to the same rights afforded the rest of us, after all I, as well as others, have fought for him to have those rights. I think the Afghan people are tired of us being there and are looking for any fire to throw gasoline on in hopes we leave. Same thing happened in Iraq, they loved us for a while then hated us and then we left. This is what should do in Afghanistan now, leave. Let them go back to the Taliban rule of law. Dolomite

To throw a wrench into your thinking. The 455 has the new replaceable barrel system. In about 5 minutes you can be shooting another rimfire caliber or anothery type of barrel like a target or sporter barrel. They are just as accurate as the 452's. Dolomite

I am in the process of looking for a 22 pistol, not a revolver, and came across one of these. It is a new gun at a online dealer for $539. Seems like it would be an indestructible 22 revolver. I don't ever recall seeing one before but my mind could be going. http://www.gilbertsguns.com/Handguns/Ruger/Ruger+SP101+22LR+8+Shot+Revolver+05765 Dolomite

Yes, you still have to get the stamp approved prior to starting the build. It is illegal to have any parts for your suppressor made without the form in hand. Just because it has been approved doesn't mean anything until the form is in your hand. Basically fill out a Form 1, it is about as hard as the paperwork for a civillian passport. Give the can you intend to build a model name, length, serial number as well as caliber on the form. Send it off and wait. Once you get the approval you begin building your can. And just so you know you can legally go shorter but you can never go longer. So it is always best to over estimate the length then shorten it as needed. For my 22 can I used a 1" 316 for the tube and 17-4 for all other parts. It is threaded 1/2-28. And so you know those materials are what is normally used for centerfire guns. I used 8 "K" baffles because the concensus is they seem to be the best for subsonic rounds. For the centerfire rifle most say cone baffles are the way to go. Most centerfire cans also have a very large through hole, I know most 22 cans run holes larger than .26" and to me this allows fast, hot gases to make it past baffels and eventually out the end. In my 22 can the first 2 baffles are .234" giving .006" clearance. The next 2 baffles are .24" followed by .25" and the final 2 are .26". It is what that call tapered baffles and they prevent baffle strikes in the event the can isn't exactly square. As long as the threads on the firearm are concentric to the bore it works great. And even if the later baffles are a bit large I belive the initial "K" baffles having such small clearance make up the majority of the cans effectiveness. And it is quiet as some on here will verify. For the 30 caliber can I think I might try a combination of cone and "K" baffles. It is going to be threaded 5/8-24 and have either a 1.375" or 1.5" tube. I will have a cone baffle as the blast baffle, then K baffles after that. I might even try my hand at machining iconel or some other high end alloy. The 30 caliber can is going to be 10" long. The initial blast baffle is going to be 2" in and a 17-4 cone baffle, the next baffle, which will be a K baffle, is going to be 1.5" then the rest are going to be equally spaced K baffles. I plan on shooting mostly subsonic rounds through the can and K's work best on subsonics while cones work best on supersonics. I think if I keep the fit very tight it will help out a lot. Maybe have a .312" to give me .002" clearance all the way around. I will again taper the baffles to prevent strikes. Dolomite

Look at my avatar. That is the 7.62x25 Tokarev, a Russian pistol caliber, loaded with a 168 SMK. It is next to a 45 ACP for comparison. That is another build that is coming as soon as I find a Remington 591, 592. Dolomite

It was in Tuzla, Bosnia Herzegovina in 95-96 time frame. I was there during the event providing route security to the POTUS's convoy. Afterwards I spoke to some soldiers who were actually in the promotion ceremony and others who attended his speech. They said they were told to put their rifle bolts in their pockets during the event. I didn't attend the speech because I was making sure the return route was still clear. Never even seen the President. Dolomite

I have another thread with the groups and fps of factory ammo. I just found out it has a LONG throat. Probably 1/2" long so factory ammo isn't going to be really accurate. These loads should do better. I have been having a rough couple of weeks. Hoping to hit the range this week. Dolomite