Dolomite_supafly

Mine will cycle anything and everything even on setting 1. I have glass bolted the gun. I made my own lightweight, dished puck. I replaced the front recoil spring with a 16 pound 1911 spring. It also has a lightened hammer/trigger spring. I have yet to do any port work but after cutting off 4"-5" I might have to which is easy enough. What brake are you using? Easier to manuver but other than that no. But they really don't loose a lot, in the way of perfromance, either. Dolomite

They sell everything to shorten then rethread the barrel. But without it being permanently attached you still need 18" of barrel before the flash hider. I am looking at 14"-15" then a 4"-5" long flash hider on the end. I am going to slip fit the flash hider then silver solder it in place. I was planning on welding it in place but have converns over the thin barrel. I know the brake you are talking about. It vents gases about 1/2 way down the barrel. It has to be loud and miserable for anyone standing next to you. Maybe I just need to spring for the Form 1 and do it right. Dolomite

+1 or at least the story isn't going to be fraud. The real story should be how the US is going to be doomed unless there is a major change in those in charge or their way of doing business. Dolomite

A round nose 22 LR will go through more than most 223 loads. Dolomite

There probably isn't that much of a benefit. I am taking the barrel down to the minimum so I figured I would put something on the end so it just doesn't end. Some of the brakes actually help but they are obnoxious in both sound and looks. Dolomite

Not really needing anything to suppress flash. I am needing to take up barrel length. I am going to weld the brak on to a chopped barrel to bring it to 18.25". Dolomite

I am going to be chopping my S-12's barrel down and permanently attaching a flash hider. I am wondering what the length is on a few types. I am looking for information on the longest round flash hider or information on the ones below. First is the Russian bird cage style of flash hider. Next would be the long 10 slot MD Arms: I am not interested in any information about the shark brakes, only round style. Here are the links to thepictures above to give credit where gredit is due: http://store.carolin...PH-FLASH/Detail http://store.carolin...SAIGA-12/Detail The pictures above do not belong to me. Thanks Dolomite

Especially if the numbers were being cooked from the beginning. Dolomite

The trigger on the Keltecs are about the same as their pistols. They are blowback, which most are, so recoil can be a bit stiff on such a lightweight weapon. They are accurate enough for their intended role as well. Dolomite

Ok, this is pretty disturbing. Dolomite

Looks great. Definitely blends in really well. I think the next camoflauge job is going to be like yours, it works much better and is easier. Here is one I did a few years back. I used a combination of flat, satin, and gloss paints to do mine. I figured in nature there are shiny leaves just as there are flat areas. It literally took two days to do, hardly a quick process. Mine, no doubt, took a lot longer and was more labor intensive than yours. I really like how yours turned out. I started mine out by applying a base using Krylon textured paint. Next I cloaked it in a laundry bag from Walamrt. Then I sprayed lines of darker colors through the bag, onto the stock. After about 10 minutes I remove the bag. Then I cut out stencils to add depth. Make sure to put tape over the cutout or it will get paint soaked and look like crap. Then I randomly paint patterns using the stencils. I make sure to make them random as well as try to avoid painting the entire stencil. I basicallt paint one side with a hard edge then feather the other edge in. I use random colors and random stencils. I also use random gloss as well as flat to give it even more depth. I have been looking at trying the straw method as well. Maybe a combination of your method and the straw method would look fantastic. Either way my method here is not likely to be repeated, at least not my me. Dolomite

Don't need 20 suppressors. A 30 caliber suppressor will work pretty well with anything smaller. A 45 suppressor will work with 9mm pretty well. I will say that if you plan on using one on a 22 then buy a dedicated 22 suppressor. They tend to be lighter and more manageable on a day to day basis. Buy a suppressor that uses some sort of QD setup then buy the QD mount for all the weapons you want them on. Dolomite

Give it a month after your check is cashed. It generally goes pending about one month after the check is cashed. Before it goes pending they will have no record of the forms you sent in. When it goes pending you can find out who the investigator is but now it should be standardized. You will need your name and the serial number of the NFA item. Dolomite

Just wanted to say Major Kong has stepped up to help me out. I reallly appreciate it. Dolomite

I am needing someone to get on my roof and screw down the edges of my metal roof. It should honestly not take more than an hour but figure two just to be safe. The roof edge is 34' long so you will need to put screws into 64' worth of metal. The screws will need to be about every 6". The highest roof edge is about 20' but we have easy access to the rood that is less than an 8 foot climb up a ladder. The roof pitch is 4/12 so it isn't very steep. I will supply all materials needed. My wife and I installed this roof ourselves when we built the house in 2003. I didn't think the edges really needed it but now I think they do. I will pay a fair price as well as supply pizza and drinks for lunch. We can help but I cannot get on the roof and my wife is afraid of heights. Must sign a release of liability in case you injure yourself. PM what you will charge me to do this. Dolomite

Something that no one has mentioned is something I would consider a priority in any survival situation when you are trying to stay low. A silencer. And get one for as many calibers as you can but if you only have one make it a 22. The reason is subsonic 22 ammo is readily available and lightweight to carry. And 22 will kill any game we have in our area with the right shot. And with a silencer it is possible to get multiple shots before what you are shooting at realizes what just happened and by that time it is too late. If you are hunting, even with a 22, the shot will alarm and bring in curious people. And those curious people are going to be problems. And realistically I could fend off intruders from quite a distance with a 22 and my silencer. I routinely practice 200 yard shots and at 200 yards anyone would be hard pressed to hear the shot or figure out where the shot came from. In my 22 AR it is literally the hammer hitting and the bolt cycling that you hear over the shot. In a bolt gun all you hear is the impact on target even if the target is dirt it is still louder at 100 yards than the shot. A few more things I would consider mandatory is a decent pellet rifle to take game quietly with and a slingshot for the same reason. You can also shoot arrows quite well with a slingshot making it effective for deer or larger animals when shooting isn't ideal. Dolomite

But with a conversion using 60 grain SSS you get A LOT of port noise. It is because the casing is so short it can't seal properly as well as allowing a lot more gas to escape before the barrel pressure drops. Standard subsonic rounds are quieter than the SSS in a AR conversion when you take into consideration the port noise, which is loud enough to ring my ears. Another problem is the escaping gases tend to fly back into the shooters face when shooting the SSS. I have also milled weights and added them to my conversion to try to keep the bolt closed longer. And even when the weight began to cause cycling issues it still was giving me a lot of port noise. I know using a conversion in my AR the ejection port noise is louder than hitting steel at 25 yards when using them. The ejection port noise is louder than the same round out of a bolt gun without a can. With a can in a bolt gun the round is amazing but not in any semi auto. The key to getting a round as quiet as possible is to catch and slow the gases down. Because the SSS opens so early the gases are still fast and hot when exiting the ejection port. Dolomite

There is a guy on Craigslist that sells food grade 55 gallon plastic drums for $10 each. He also sells 12 gallon barrels with handles for $7. Everything he has is food safe. I have bought seveal of each from him and he is a great guy to deal with. http://knoxville.craigslist.org/grd/2892790039.html I am going to use the 12 gallon barrels for fuel storage. They are larger than any other while still being small enough to move around. Dolomite

And a hero is lost forever. Crazy that a SF soldier makes it through several dangerous depolyments and dies on a neighbors front porch. Hope the shooter gets what he deserves. Dolomite

I use 4.5-4.7 gr of Trailboss with 69 SMK's. I load the bullets backwards to identify them. The flat point also hits harder. They will not cycle but more importantly they do not unlock letting gas escape. They are stabile in a 9 twist barrel at subsonic velocities. Dolomite

Everything I shoot is reloads. The only time I buy factory ammo is when I need brass like the recent 7.62x39 purchase. I do buy factory ammo to practice with my wife's carry pistol. As a matter of fact I cast every pistol bullet I shoot as well. Makes shooting every caliber equal in price. The cost of 9mm is about the same as 45 acp. Both cost me less than a nickel a shot. Every round of the 3,000+ rounds through my 1911 was a reload even though I hadn't started casting for it until recently. When buying all the components 45 acp was .12-.13 each loaded round and 9mm was about .10-.11 each loaded round. Caster sent me a bunch of cast 30 caliber bulelts to try. If any of them work out in my x39 bolt gun I will be casting those as well. And when I do that each x39 round is going to cost me under .15 each for supersonic loads and the same as 45 for the subsonic loads. Dolomite

You can use the 350's providing you just work up loads as normal. I have used them for my 1911. The biggest concern I would have is making sure the pistol can ignite the harder primer. I know my 1911 it will light off anything. I have small primer 45 brass that has been loaded with small rifle primers without issue. And it has a 20 pound mainspring vs. the normal 23 pound. I have used small rifle primers for pistols for years. In my 9mm I have used Remington 6.5's, 7.5's, CCI 400's, CCI 41's as well as a ton of Wolf SRM's. Dolomite

No I don't. I looked at them but I don't like the idea of adding more length to the already long barrel. I considering permenently attaching one but I don't like anything that is permanent either. Dolomite

It would seem to be that something prompts them to ask. I have been buying ammunition and got asked the pistol or rifle question about 1/2 way through the ring up process. And considering the only thing I buy is 22lr it is a particular brand vs. another brand that prompted that question. The last time I bought anything other than 22lr was a few weeks ago and it was 7.62x39. Prior to that is has been at least 3 years that I bought anything centerfire. Dolomite

For those wanting cheap slugs do like I do. I buy the cheap Remington bulk pack target or sport loads. They run $25/100. I cut the tops out and dump the lead out. Pull the wad out and replace it with Winchester AA 0012 hulls that are $6/250. I cast slugs out of the lead pellets and drop then into the hulls. The weight is the same so they cycle the same. They are accurate enough in my Saiga and cost under .30 each. I use .690" round balls that weigh 1.25 ounces for most of my needs now. Provides a little more operating pressures. They are man sized accurate to beyond 50 yards. They are 2' accurate at 100 yards 75% of the time. And if you want hotter slugs just buy hotter game loads and do the same. Dolomite