Dolomite_supafly

I wonder how much "pre-ban" lawn darts are worth now? Dolomite

Looks great. Definitely a great solution. Dolomite

You must have the gun transferred to a dealer in Tennessee. As far as a dealer to do a transfer just call around and find the cheapest. The service is going to be the same so the only other factor is cost. Dolomite

I really wish they could do an instant background like other states do backgrounds for firearms. Or have a "frequent buyer" program where after your initial background you are not subjected to a full blown background again unless something has changed. Imagine the revenue if a person could walk in and walk out the same day with their suppressor. I bet they would collect 10x the revenue in the first month over the previous 10 years. In this day and age of electronics it would be very, very simple. It would require less manpower, less labor costs and less storage space for the records. Dolomite

Look on Ebay, I got mine there recently. Give me a call sometime Neil to talk about the 300 if you want. Dolomite

The only range brass I pick up is from know people or straight walled pistol brass. Straight walled brass is likely to get lost before it wears out and when it does it is normally in the form of a split case neck, hardly a dangerous problem. Any rilfe caliber bottle neck rounds I leave in place. Dolomite

I would willing to kill if they were stealing something that my family or I needed to survive or prevent extreme harships. That is my litmus test for it. I don't care if it cost me nothing or every penny I have if the missing item is likely to cause someone to die or extreme hardship then it should be justified. I think it should not be a dollar amount but whether it was something needed to survive. The tools to make a living to feed my family are something that would justify killing. Why should my family eat beans and rice or have to live in a shelter or on the streets because someone stole those tools. Yes if the thieves are caught they will be ordred to pay restitutution but that could take years and all the while my family suffers hardships. For those of you who think insurance will cover the loss of tools, better check again. Most policies require seperate policies on high value items bot for auto as well as homeowners insurance. If they were stealing firewood it would depend. If we were in the middle of winter and they were taking all I had when I had no other means to stay warm then I would shoot them. Now if it were in the middle of the summer and they were taking a few piece then I wouldn't. As I said I do not belive a dollar amount should be applied but the amount of hardship the loss of the item will cause. Dolomite

I say we let natural selection choose the smarter ones. I honestly think people are just getting dumber and looking for our nanny state to do their parenting for them. And when someone gets hurt they blame everyone else. When I was a kid we didn't have child locks, safety caps, bicycle helmets and our windows rolled all the way down. Yes kids did get hurt from time to time but not like today with all the safety measures in place. I am not saying those things are bad, just saying a little bit of self preservation can go a long way. Hell, when I was a kid we could walk in to the store and buy dangerous chemicals in the form of a chemistry kit. I carried a gun at age 10 and never got seriously hurt. Maybe the kid will feel amazing now. All those magnetic bands supposedly have some amazing results. Dolomite

He is missing something he probably longed after his entire life. A Colt Walker revolver. There is a reproduction at the bottom but a real one would be more than any single gun in this collection. I would hope for historical reasons they are takings extensive pictures and cataloging every single firearm. The amount of information to be gleened from this collection is amazing. Without a doubt I would like to go to the auction just to see some of these pices in person. As a kid I dreamed of having most of the guns in this collection. Dolomite

The problem is the kits swage the bulets down to a .221" diameter. Most rimfires start out with a larger bullet diameter than centerfire bullets so they should shoot well. I have taken centerfire barrels and made rimfire barrels out of them and they shot fine. This explains it all: http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/49124-why-your-ar-conversion-wont-shoot-accurately/page__hl__conversion Dolomite

Yes they are all resized. I have reloaded brass that was nearly 100% black from tarnish without an issue. As far as the case neck dings they are not an issue unless they do not come out during the sizing process. Any dings in the case walls will come out upon firing. The biggest thing about range pick ups is to make sure they are 100% clean before sizing. All it takes is a single grain of sand to ruin a sizing die. Also watch out for berdan primed brass but nost of that is going to be steel cased, not always but most times. Dolomite

Hey Caster, bacon grease would give off a very nice aroma. It will also assure any Muslim you shoot will not fi d themselves in paradise with their 72 virgins. Dolomite

+1 You take what was once a very effective weapon. Then shorten the barrel reducing the velocity, increase the bullet weight again reducing velocity. Overstabilize the bullets to the point they do not tumble and without tumbling they will not fragment. Not like it matters as most FMJ ammunition need at least 2600 fps to fragment anyways. Any gun with a barrel of 10.5" or less is going to give 22lr like wounds at anything beyond 50 yards. 12.5" barrels extend that to about 100 yards and 14.5" gets you to about 200 yards. This is with a 7 twist barrel shooting 62 grain bullets. If they wanted the M4 to be more effective they would go to 9 twist with 62-69 grain bullets or 12 twist with 55 grain bullets. This would increase the effectiveness of the round by at least 100 yards because the bullets WILL tumble. The 5.56 is a 300 yard cartridge and when the powers that be tried to extend that range they ruined all it attributes. I would rather have a very effective 300 yard caliber than a marginal 500 yard caliber. If the military is insistant on having a shorter barrel they need to look at another caliber. There are plenty of other calibers that are appropiate to shorter barrels. 6.8 SPC, 300 Blackout as well as a few "wildcat" calibers would be far more effective. Dolomite Dolomite

I called MI and here are the dimensions for their free float tubes. Gen1 1.70" ID 1.90" OD Gen2 1.50 OD 1.30 ID Looks like the GEN1 will work for me. They also offer discounts. Dolomite

I do believe the Sig uses the smae Black Dog mags as a "normal" AR in 22lr. I would pass on the Umarex as they are mostly pot metal. I would rather have the plastic M&P than the pot metal Umarex. The controls are totally different than a standard AR too. The come apart totally different. You already have a 10/22 so it is just a stock change to becoming similar to the SR22 so the 10/22 is out. The M&P is great but it does require special mags. For me it would be the Sig at the top of the list because you already have mags. Then the M&P would be next, then the 10/22. Dolomite

You can post pictures no matter your post count. You need to host them on another site, like photobucket, and then copy the URL of the picture in a thread. Dolomite

I will in the AM. I do not belive their GEN2 are going to fit but I figured I would try asking. Their SS series should be fine but want to make absolutely sure before spending another $200. Dolomite

I am needing some dimensions before I order one. First, what is the ID of the MI SS series free float tube. Like this one: http://www.midwestin...ies_12in_26.gif Second, what is the width and height of the gas tube channel of the GEN2 SS series. Like this one: http://www.midwestin...sg2_12in_22.gif I recently bought a Rainier Arms with the channel and it was too narrow for use with my gas block. A 1.75" ID free float tube will fit, but barely. Thanks Dolomite The images are from MI website. http://www.midwestin...c.com/index.cfm

We, as in my wife and I, carry PMC Starfires in our daily carry guns. They are 124 grain and feed reliably. Up until the change she carried FTX rounds, again 124 grain, and I carried 124 grain Speer Gold Dot. Once a year we go out and buy carry ammo, picking up what is reasonably priced, then shooting up our old ammo. I once carried handloads. They were 147 grain Gold Dots at 1,200 fps out of a Glock 17. I was getting 357 magnum performance out of a 9mm. It was a published load that is NOT considered +P. Thanks to the thieves at the Expo Center I moved on to factory loaded ammo. I would never carry FMJ in public. My wife's home defense carbine in 9mm has FMJ to ensure it is 100% reliable. It has had issues with certain HP's in the past. We don;t mind having FMJ's in it because the likelihood of hitting an innocent bystander in our house in practically zero. Even if you hit the bad guy you are still responsible for the bullet if it passes through. The 124's out of a 16" barrel are probably approaching 1,400 fps Here is a video of a FMJ against a 13" geltin block showing little signs of slowing down: And another: Compare those to almost any HP and you will see a dramatic difference in penetration as well as would channel, both temporary and permanent. Almost any HP or SP is going to perform better than the FMJ when expansion and overpenetration is a concern. FMJ are designed to feed reliably above all else. Federal actually made a 90 grain soft point bullet at a pretty stout 1,450 fps. I had several hundred rounds and although I never carried them I would have had no reservations. Overpenetration is not going to be an issue and the hydrostatic shock is going to be substantial as well. They were a government contract bullet that I suspected were for those who carried on aircraft. I have done some small amount of testing lightweight bullets. It started out with someone telling me that FMJ will pass through no matter what. So I decided to load some 90 grain FMJ rounds at different velocities. At 1,200-1,300 fps these bullets passed through several jugs. It actually expected that but what was odd was when I pushed this little bullet. I slowly loaded it to 2,000+ fps out of a blowback carbine. And at that velocity the bullet never made it out of the first jug. I did find jacket material as well as lead "dust". The ony reason why I put that out there is you need to be within the range of velocity of the bullet performance. Too fast or too slow and the bullet will perform miserably, even FMJ. And don't ask, I will never reveal that recipe as in any locked breech gun it would be a hand grenade. Quality defense ammo is cheap considering you are not going to be shooting 100's of them every trip to the range. Dolomite

So I got my decibel meter in today. I decided to check my can on a few different platforms. I also checked the meter against a decibel reference library and the meter I have is within 3% of all of them Testing on empty guns: Ruger racked empty: 108.9 (decibel reference 112.5) (18" to the left) Ruger hammer drop on empty chamber: 108.8(Decible reference 102.7) (12" to the left) 22 AR racked empty: 113.1 (12" to the right) Marlin pulling trigger on empty: 114.7 (12" to the right) I was shooting Winchester Subsonic HP's. I was out in the open to minimize the false readings from echos. The can was dry and was measured ~1 meter to the left and level/even with the muzzle. Now shooting: Marlin rifle with a 20" Barrel: 104 Ruger 22/45 with 4.5" barrel: 110.8 22 AR with 10" barrel and tube/rails covering the suppressor: 101.2 Cricket pistol with 4.25" barrel: 98.0 I may go back and revisit these numbers later on once I figure out how to really use the meter but the numbers seem within the realm of possibilities. Dolomite

I have a few places locally that I get lead from. The biggest thing is go by in person. If you cold call you will not get any positive responses. Dolomite

You are obviously not a reloader then. And you need to start because you shoot for 1/10th the price of buying ammo. Dolomite

What exactly are you wanting done? Generally speaking about the only thing that needs replacing is the recoil spring unless you are trying to make it more modern. And if you are wanting to turn that "old Colt" into a modern tactical gun I would get it appraised first. Some of these older guns can be worth thousands of dollars. You might be able to sell it in order to buy the gun you are wanting and come out with some change. Altering an original older Colt in any way will kill some of its value. Without a doubt Bob Howard at Predator is the way to go. They are great bunch of folks. Phone: (865) 521 - 0625 Dolomite

That is exactly how I do it. I find the current size of the port using the drill bits. Then I go up one step and drill it using a cordless drill. The drill bit is so small that it will self center as long as you are reasonably square to the bore. You need to mark the drill bit with tap to make sure you go all the way through one side without touching the other. Then I shoot the gun to see if it is reliable. If it is I might go up one more size to make sure it will never have an issue. People ask about the burr and I tell them to shoot it and the burr will be gone. If they are really, really anal about it you can force a bullet down the bore until it covered the port. Then drill as usual. This will eliminate the burr. Afterwards just knock the bullet out of the bore. I have never had to do it because people are more scared of forcing a bullet down the bore than the burr. ******************************************** With it being a factory assembled upper I would not recommend altering it in any way. PSA seems like they are pretty good about taking care of problems. I would contact them for advice. Who knows they might have had a run of barrels that were drilled too small. Or they might give you the go ahead to drill the port without voiding any warranty. Not with your brand but I have seen brand name carbine barrels with ports under .060" when you need at least .070" in most cases. Yours needs to be somewhere between .070" and .083" to be within "spec". And some guns like .070" while others, for whatever reason, NEED .083" to run. In the mean time OP grab some ammo other than Tula or Federal and try it again. It may need a few hundred rounds to get things loosened up. Make sure you have the bolt pretty wet with lube. Not thin lube like Remoil but something a bit thicker. 30 weight synthetic seems to work pretty good. You could also try some grease or antiseize on the bolt head during the greak in. Antiseize seems to cushion things a bit as well as be a little slicker than grease itself. And although some guns don't mind Tula some really do mind it. The problem with Tula is it is underpowered. Most American 55 grain stuff runs 3,000+ fps but Tula averages 2,850 fps. That 150 fps means there is less pressure at the port and that reduction can be enough to cause cyclins issues. Another issue that comes up is when the gun gets hot the chamber can get coated with the finish on the cases causing stuck cases. I have several guns tht don't mind Tula but it did take a little work to get them there. Don't get discouraged, we you will get it figured out. And because you are local to me maybe we can meet up sometime and I can help you out. Dolomite

It is a problem with gas. You either have the gas block partially blocking the gas port in the barrel or the gas port is too small to fire the ammo. I have seen a few barrels lately with smaller gas ports than what is needed. Also, check to make sure the gas key is properly staked and tight. When you disipator style, where is the gas port located? At the carbine position or the rifle position? If you can give me the info I can tell you what port size you probably need. Then you can start with that and go up a few .001" at a time until it cycles reliably. Another thing you need to do is oil the running surfaces well during the initial break in. Ammo differences between commmercial ammo and milspec ammo can be a problem as well but it is rare that a gun is on that fine of an edge that it will not cycle commercial but will cycle milspec. The fix for this is just to open up the gas port in the barrel. You should not have to get a lightweight spring or lightweight buffer. The gun should run fine with milspec buffer and spring providing it is getting the correct amount of gas. Dolomite