Dolomite_supafly

They are going to be traded in on the Sigs from what I was told.   Dolomite

My subsonic loads cost me 4.4 cents per round.   Dolomite

There are some politics involved in this decision. I have spoken to someone in the department that said it is not about needs. I heard this about a year ago.   Dolomite

I generally start right in the middle of the load data. Then I go up or down until I find an accurate load they cycles. And in most cases the max loads are not the most accurate. I try to find the minimum load that will reliably cycle in all my guns.   Dolomite

I buy jars of cocoa covered almods at Sam's. When empty I fill them with 22's. I have some where between 4 and 5 full. Each holds at least 3 bricks. I also have a bunch of specialized rounds like subsonics and target ammo. But I will also shoot a brick in a day if I am in the mood. I always shoot a few bricks a month now. I was buying ammo all the time. I would buy 5 bricks at a time. Same thing with the 100 round packs of 12 gauge. I honestly cannot say how much 12 gauge I have but it is north of 1K. Everything else I load as I need it. I do have a "small" amount of ammo loaded but no where near what most other people do. But I also shoot a lot. Even though it sounds like a lot I will go through all of it in under 6 months. I have actually started shooting my 300 Blackout a lot more because it is cheaper than 22's now. Have you gotten your Sparrow yet? We need to get together when you do. Dolomite

Depends, I use lighter weight because it brings out more detail of the gun. I also wash them in warm soapy water to make them very hard. I use 6-7 or 4-5 ounce and once washed, contoured and dried it is like Kydex in how it acts. I have been doing some experimenting. I generally use the heavier leather as a backer and the lightweight leather for the front.   I use a vacuum sealer to contour the holster rather than boning. I think it makes for a nicer holster. I wash the front in hot water that is almost too hot for you to hold you hand in. I use dishsoap and wash the leather for probably 10 minutes. I soak, then scrub with my hand, then wring the water completely out. I repeat this probably 10 times. Then I wringe it out a final time then lay it out to cool. I do not wash the backer.   I seal the gun in a vacuum bag to prevent moisture from getting into the inside of the gun. If the gun has high sights I tape a pencil between the front and rear sights to create a channel in the leather. I place the backer leather in a seperate vacuum bag. I place the gun on that then I place the wet piece of leather over top of the gun. I vacuum the bag without sealing it. I vacuum and release to make adjustments. And once everything is where it should be I use papertowels to soak up the extra moisture that is getting squeezed out of the leather. I use the papertowels until no more water is being squeezed out of the leather. Then I do a final vacuum and let it seal. I let it sit for a few hours and during this time the moisture from the front piece to back piece. While it sets I normally bend it to better match the curve of the hip.   Then I remove everything together from the bag and carefully set the front piece in a position so it maintains its shape while it dries.   After it dries for a few days I do a close trime on the front but do not touch the back yet. It is easier to trim the front before it is bonded to the back. After it is trimmed it is time to glue the pieces together. I tape off the area of the front piece where the gun will be setting during the glue process. Then I spray it with 3M adhesive spray. I remove the tape and place the firearm in the fron half where there is no glue. Then I press the back onto the front piece and place it all into the vacuum bag again. I vacuum it down and let it seal. I let it set again for a few hours to ensure a good bond. Then I remove the holster from the vacuum bag and remove the gun from it.   Now I begin trimming the excess. After I have trimmed it to close to the final dimension I use a spacer wheel to mark out the stitches. I use a drill press and a awl to punch the holes. It is easier and more consistent than doing it by hand. Then I stitch it using a crossover stitch. Once it is all stitched up I do the final trimming and sanding and bring it to about 1/4" from the stitching.   I dye the leather and then I cut the belt loops to what the friend I am doing it for says feels good. And then I use a sharpie to color in the loops.   There are a lot of little nuances I am missing but that is the basics.   Dolomite

I have had to wake up and load a firearm once, key word is once, while I was groggy. I woke to my wife screaming outside so I grabbed an AR and ran outside. Turns out some stray dogs were killing some of out animals.   I inserted the magazine into the magwell, racked the gun and pulled the trigger, click. I slammed the magazine HARD into the magwell, racked it again, tried pulling the trigger again and once I again I heard that dreadful click. At that point I realized I had shoved the mag in upside down. I ripped the mag out and inserted in correctly, racked the gun then proceeded to immediately hit the mag release rather than the trigger. The magazine feel to the ground but I did get one shot off. Then I grabbed the mag reinserted it, correctly, racked it and began shooting.   I have no excuse for the upside down magazine other than not being totally awake. But for dropping the magazine once I got it inserted correctly I believe this is the cause. I had been doing mag change drills with empty mags and I had gotten used to dropping the magazine immediately after inserting it. During training I would insert a magazine, shoulder the rifle then drop the magazine and put in a "fresh" magazine. I did that so much that I defaulted to dumping the magazine immediately after inserting a magazine and shouldering the rifle. I have since changed my training routine up a bit to hopefully keep it from happening again.   My wife reminded me of it for a long while. Friends knew as well as her letting me know pretty regularly to make sure the magazine was inserted correctly.   So I would STRONGLY recommend leaving your guns loaded and ready to go in case you are groggy. But on the same token you need to ensure you are awake enough to identify your target and what is beyond it.   Dolomite

I haven't tanned any but I made a holster the other day for a friend.   Dolomite

Those quad rails are the clamp on type and will not work with your setup.   Because your barrel is thin in front of the gas block you cannot even use the extra gas block and clamp it in place and use it as a fake gas block to hold the quad rails on. The barrel is too thin for that to work.   Because you have a spring loaded delta ring and a micro gas block without a handguard retainer I don't think you are going to find anything to work with your current setup. At a minimum you need to put the front handguard retainer back on behind the micro gas block and use standard carbine length handguards or carbine length clamp on rails. The only way it will work with your current setup is a Rainier free float tube that clamps to the barrel nut after you have removed the delta ring and sprin assembly. The Rainier tube will cost $150+ depending on length.   Is that barrel in the picture how you received it or did you replace items?   Again, the rails you have there will not work at all with what you have.   Dolomite

No, for several reasons.   A person would be looney to load ammo and let someone else shoot it because of the liability. And you would would be taking the risk by shooting someone else's reloads. Imagine if the gun kabooms and causes serious injury. If the reloader did not have insurance you would be out a lot of money in medical bills. Yeah you could sue but courts will not force anyone to pay anymore. That is just too much risk by both for me to handle.   Second, I am pretty sure that would be the same as selling reloaded ammo without a license.   Reloading is easy, it is not time consuming and it is cheap to get into. I have a list where someone can get everythign they need to reload for under $200. That is less than 10 boxes of ammo   Dolomite

Christmas time there is always a shortage of 22's. Has been that way for years. Then add the other stuff and it only compounds the problems.   I have swore off shooting 22 for now because I can shoot my 300 Blackout for less. It costs me 4.4 cents a round for my Blackout.   Dolomite

  It is because every AR made has a mystical accurcay spell cast upon it before leaving the factory. With the Ruger's it is most likely a voodoo curse after Bill Ruger's 10 round comment.   Dolomite

  +1,000   Bob is a great guy and the owners of Predator Custom are great bunch of guys.   PREDATOR Custom Shop 3539 Papermill Drive Knoxville, TN 37909 Phone: (865) 521 - 0625

I am glad to see it but I bet the dealer that is there every morning will be raising a stink. I don't mind a 1 box per day limit. All I need a day is 550 round brick. :)   Dolomite

Not a legal posting.   Dolomite

I would not worry about the marks. You have polished the high spots that the bullet will ride on. Most people think they need to remove all tool marks but in 99.9% of the cases just a good polishing will fix the issues even if it does leave some tool marks behind. When I polish I start by taking 1,000 grit sand paper and rolling it up until it matches the contour of the feed ramp. I go back and forth for about a minute. Then I swap to 2,000 grit and do the same. The I use a Dremel with a polishing pad and use Flitz to do the finishing. Most times I still have tool marks but it will feel a lot smoother. And while I am polishing with the Dremel I also polish the roof of the chamber for a minute or two. With most guns as the bullet is chambering it rides on the roof of the chamber. And if the roof of the chamber is rough this can cause problems. You do not want to remove material, just polish the high spots.   If you are having issues it might have never been the feed ramp. The breech face generally has tool marks on it as well and that is where a lot of the friction comes from, not the feed ramp. I use a flat ceramic stone that fits most slides perfectly to lightly polish the breech face. You will likely be able to see copper where the base of the bullet rides. You only want to polish that area without removing material. You do not need to remove the tool marks, only polish the high spots. And there is no need to polish out to the edges, just the center where the bullet rides. The area polished should be about 1/3 of an inch wide.   And finally if the gun is designed for the round to slide up under the extractor as it is being chambered, most are, I put a slight radius on the bottom of the extractor. I use a small jeweler's file to do this. You don't need a lot of a radius, just knock the sharp edge off that most extractors have. Here is a picture, not mine, of what it should look like: http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x319/spelf01/extractor.gif I grabbed it from here: http://www.ksccw.com/showthread.php?t=24384   If I have a gun that is having issues I generally do both the breechface and the feed ramp. And if I am still having issues I radius the extractor as well.   Dolomite

I would not recommend purse carry ever. Pocket or holster only. The reason is the purse is the first thing a bad guy grabs. If he is successful then he has the gun and her most effective way to end the confrontation. And even if he doesn't get the purse the struggle over the purse will likely prevent her from putting her gun into use.   Dolomite

I like them as well. They are nice guns. I even made a holster for one this week for a friend. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/38B9FAC2-DC29-48A1-88E7-5F874E01D8E4-6874-00000AF971873D8D.jpg   Dolomite

The civillian market has nothing to do with production priority. It has everythign to do with everyone buying it. I would be willing to bet the civillian sales far outweighs the fed. And that is why there is a shortage.   Dolomite

Yeah, they forgot to drill for the taper pins.

He cannot just chop the top off. The block is not being held in place by anything. He has no taper pins so chopping the top off will not fix anything. ANd trying to drill it yourself for taper pins is an exercise in futility.   I would recommend removing the front sight and selling it on Ebay. Probably going to bring some additional money because it HASN"T benn drilled.

And another from Maryville gone. What is in the water there. Honestly, coming into someone's house and calling them a coward? What did you expect to happen?   Dolomite

The only way to secure that is with taper picns. Locktite will not work. And the only way to install the taper pins is with the correct jig. Perhaps the shop doesn't have the jig and just installed it like that and hoped it would fly, BTW it won't.   If you are replacing is with a micro gas block I would not worry about it.   It is not normal and will come loose pretty quickly when you being firing it.   Dolomite

At least it will make it easier for you to replace the block.   Dolomite

New ones do not come with the holes drilled in them. All FSB's come that way. You make sure it is square and lined up correctly then use a jig to drill the taper pin holes. If you have one front sight it will likely not fit another barrel.   They forgot to drill for the taper pins. I would warn against trying to drill your own as it will likely end in failure.   Dolomite