Dolomite_supafly

The powder coating would be far better than shooting the lead bullets through it.   Not sure if you know this but shooting cast bullets through a suppressor is not a good idea unless you can take it apart to clean it. They clog up pretty quickly and add weight as well as reduce the suppressor effectiveness.   The heat atomizes the lead and then deposits it in the suppressor as the atomized lead cools. Also, I would not shoot bullets with gas checks unless they are Hornady with the locking groove.

I can't stand the tang safeties because you can't use a pistol grip. Makes it very hard and awkward to work the safety.   Personally I like the 88 better than the Pardner pump. The reason is Mossberg parts work with the 88. WIth the Pardner pump the barrels supposedly do not interchange. I do know that all the bolt holes are metric on the Pardner so when you replace the stocks with 870 stuff you need to buy the metric screws.

There are several things that can be causing this. The sear spring may not have enough pressure to ensure the sear engages the hammer hook. The sear or hammer itself could be screwed up some how. The disconnector may be too short and not disengaging the sear to allow it to reset properly.   Just out of curiosity how many times have you dropped the slide on any empty chamber? This can affect the function of a 1911 just like you describe, espcially if the sear/hammer engagement dimensions are on the small side.   When you replace the sear and hammer be very mindful of the thumb safety and ensure it works. Most guns need to have the thumb safety fitted to the sear and a new sear may not work properly with the current thumb safety.   What you want to do is start out with the cheapest way to fix it. That would be to bend the leg of the 3 finger spring to apply more pressure to the sear. Next I would buy a sear because it is what I have seen damaged more than a hammer and it is cheaper than a hammer. Then I would buy a hammer if the problem persisted. I would buy a disonnect last because I have rarely seen them too short, it does happen but it is rare.

You might try powder coating them. There is a really easy way to do it with only a toaster oven. No need to buy anything other than acetone, the powder coating and a oven to bake them in.   Or if you want I can coat some for you and send them back as long as I can keep some to try.

I told myself I wanted my body to be flat worn out by the time I die. Problem is I am way ahead of schedule now.   I had "issues" in my 20's and they have only gotten worse over time. I have always tried to put off what I could. I was diagnosed with a torn miniscus in 1999 and I just deal with it. I had knee surgery in the 80's and prefer not to do that again. I was 35 when I had my shoulder surgery and 36 when I had my hip surgery. And then there is the back issue that has slowed me down to a crawl.   I guess it is self correcting, you go as hard and fast as you can then the injuries slow you down enough to keep you from getting hurt again.

Glad I cast.

And remember recently the ruling that gun ownership is tied to taxes owed. I can't remember if you can't buy or can't own if you owe back taxes but it is around here somewhere.   If this is allowed then every party will start doing it. And then at some point we will all be criminals at the hands of the IRS.

Beautiful gun.

Here are some signs of pressure on primers: Flattening of primers is indication of pressure but primer type can affect how wasy they deform. The first two on the left are fine. The third is a sign and the fourth is the point you need to be concerned. Not saying the fourth is bad or dangerous, just saying you should have worked up to that point very, very slowly. I do not believe the third and fourth were fired by the same gun. You can see primer flow around the firing pin in three but not in four. Piercing the primer is also a sign of pressure and is bad for several reasons. First those hot gases can erode the firing pin tip affecting firing pin protrusion and that affects reliability. Second the gases go into the bolt between the firing pin and the firing pin hole. This will enlarge that hole and cause the primers to flow back into the hole like in number three above. This can cause a primer failure because the firing pin actually supports the primer some. It deposits dirt and crud inside the bolt which can affect reliability. And finally those gases can, depending on the gun, reach the shooters face. That is why it is important to wear glasses at all times but especially when doing load development. I have personally had one that you could not see a difference between the case and the primer. The primer flow was so severe the entire back of the case was flat except for the dent in the primer and a mark left by the ejector. Most of the writing was gone off the back of the case as well. After this the case was ruined. The primer pocket was so loose you could drop a primer into the primer pocket and it would fall back out. And honestly I was extremely lucky the case did not fail. That was probably the last time I pushed the envelope. How easily a primer flattens is dependent on the primers used. Federal primers tend to be the softest while some Russian primers tend to be really hard. That is why you read the primers with other signs like sticky extraction or marks on the case that were transferred by the bolt head. It is quite possible to get to a point beyond the pressure range of the cartridge without seeing signs on the primer. And finally, never exceed published data. At least not without knowing what you are doing and doing it very slowly. I have spoken to a lot of new reloaders and they say they start at the max load and work down. That is a very bad practice because some guns can affect pressure. And being new to reloading where would you want the mistake to happen, at the minimum or the maximum load data? That is why it is better to start low and work up. Also, I have never found a bullet that is more accurate at max than at significant less than max. I tend to load on the lighter end of the spectrum because it is easier on brass and easier on the gun. My go to 223 load is a 69SMK with 24.5 grains of Varget. Max is 26 grains and I have loaded to max but my groups suffered significantly. BTW, the velocity with that load in a 16" gun is 2,350 fps. And what is a safe pressure in one gun can be unsafe in another. The throat can have a significant affect on pressure and if you are already at or beyond max in one gun then fire the ammunition in another with a much shorter throat you might have problems. That is why I NEVER load at or beyond max unless it is for a specific gun. All my "universal" ammo is loaded well below max to take into account for different guns that might shoot that ammo. I know this seems like a lot of work but it is necessary to get accurate AND safe ammunition. And once you have done it for a while you get a feel for what is normal. Picture form here: http://www.larrywillis.com/pressure_signs.html

I don't think weather changes will affect group size as much as it will affect trajectory. Air can get thicker and thinner depending on the weather or elevation. In thicker air the bullet will not fly as far.   During inclement weather the wind generally blows more and more unpredictibly. Those unpredictable winds can affect group size.   I have not personally seen groups change in size with the weather. I have seen a point of impact shift because of weather. I would say that the groups would be similar on a calm 95 degree day and a calm 35 degree day but the groups would be on different areas of the target.

Works great as long as you don't trust it 100%.   I worked with a friend about 7 years ago who had this program. I was working on 7.62x25 Tokarev subsonic loads in an area no one else had went. The numbers were spot on until we started getting numbers below 1,200 fps. There were some recommendations that said the bullet should have been 900-1,000 fps that would get stuck in the barrel. And some recommended loads that were supposed to be well over 1,100 fps were actually well under 800.   I would buy it in a heartbeat if it was 1/2 what it costs. But for me $150 is way too much for how often I would use it.

From what I witnessed with mine the SAE bolts do not work. I assume that the bolt holes in the Pardner pump are metric. Finding metric bolts are easy enough at Home Depot or Lowes.

I use a chronograph to load. There is a correlation, I believe, Standard Deviation and vertical stringing when shooting at longer distances.   Everyone has their own routine for accuracy testing. I do it this way to minimize my time at the range. I can shoot at my house so I can determine SD's without being at a range. With my testing all components are as close to being identical as humanly possible. Cases the same, bullets the same, primers the same and all are loaded in the same setting. The only variable when I test will be the powder charge and overall length of the bullet. This is how I test loads for accuracy. I will load 3 rounds with the bullet I plan to shoot starting at the minimum powder charge and at the maximum overall length. Then I load 3 more but I add .3 grains of powder to the load and again at the maximum overall length. I do this, .3 of a grain at a time, until I start to see signs of pressure. I record the results then move on to the next powder and do the same. And once I find a load that has a SD I feel is small enough I start the load development.   With the same powder you will find a point where the SD numbers drop significantly. I think this is where the powder has reached is perfect efficiency. I have a 223 load that has a SD of 1.73 fps, which is amazing. I thought my chronograph was broke or the batteries were dead but after replacing the batteries it ran the same numbers again and again.   And because the bullet exits at a certain part of the whip you need to find the position where the bullet exits at the same time. I normally load the 3 that had the smallest SD. Then I load 3 more with the same charge except I seat the bullet .01" deeper in the case. Then 3 more that are .01" deeper than the previous. Seating .01" deeper will change where the bullet exits during the whip of the barrel. I will generally start out seating .01" and stop at .10". That is unless I see pressure signs first. Then I take these loads and shoot them at a horizontal line on the target. I am not worried about lining up with a vertical line at this point. I try 100 or maybe even 200 yards. You are not worried about the horizontal, side to side, group size but vertical group size. That is if you have 3 rounds that are spread out over 2" vertically that means the bullets are exiting at different times during the whip. If you find that 3 rounds that are on that horizontal line, even if they are spread out horizontally, that means these are exiting very close to the same point during the whip.   I also prep my brass when I am trying to squeeze the absolute last amount of accuracy of the gun. I buy brand new brass and use brass from the same lot. I trim them all then weigh them all and throw out any out of the norm. Then I uniform the flash holes and chamfer the flash hole. I uniform the primer pockets so they are identical. Then I neck size the brass followed by body sizing the brass. And when seating my primers I seat them using a die that allows me to set the depth so all primers will be the same height. For my Savages I set the headspace at 0 using the sized pieces of brass. That is I loosen the barrel nut and tighten the barrel down onto the sized piece of brass without anything providing some clearance, like tape or paper or gauges.   What did all this work get me? I have a factory Savage barrel that shot .3's at 100 yards pretty consistently. And those are 7 shot groups, not 3 or 5.   I haven't used this method for probably a year since I went to the 300 Blackout. I no longer shoot for the smallest groups on paper but do shoot for fun. I enjoy shooting clays and other reactive target so as long as my hand loads are able to that I am happy.      

Just like the media shows pictures of a young Trayvon to get sympathy you post a picture of the dog as a puppy impying it was a puppy at the time it was shot, it wasn't a puppy. It even says in the article you posted that the dog was 2 years old and not a puppy.   And although it is very tragic someone lost their pet it is the owners fault for not having control over their dog. Had their dog not gotten out the officer would not have been called. And there is no one to say the dog didn't try to bite the officer in which case I say shoot the dog because I would. The dog getting out it is the owner's fault, not the officer, not the mayor and especially not the dog but it was the dog that paid the price for an irresponsible owner.   If the owners are looking for someone to blame I suggest they start with a look in the mirror.   Like I said there is more history here than being reported. Who is to say the dog hasn't gotten out several times before and was aggressive people.  We don't know because the only story we are getting is that of the owners looking to blame anyone but themselves.   I am the biggest dog, and animal, lover you will ever find and that is why I am so upset. 

You can get adjustable gas blocks for under $50 shipped.

BTW, you can do the same thing with an adjustable gas block as you can with a pigtail.

I think it is to prevent overgassing more so than short stroking. Overgassing and short stroking can look similar.   The pigtail gives the gasses in the barrel time to drop before the gas hits the BCG. This extra time lets the pressures inside the barrel drop to "normal" levels before the BCG unlocks. If not then the pressures inside the abrrel will be higher than "normal" and those pressures exert more force on the case and the bolt. Those extra pressures inside the barrel as the BCG unlocks cause the BCG to accelerate at a faster rate causing the gun to have malfunctions related to overgassing.   By allowing the gasses in the barrel to reduce it reduces the chance of overgassing. Also a properly gassed gun runs cleaner, more reliably and with less felt recoil.   Anyone who has shot my 5 pound AR that is properly gassed will attest to how differently a properly gassed gun uns compared to a overgassed gun. And there has been a shift in the industry to overgas guns for "reliability".

Lengthens the gas system. Basically allows the pressures to drop before reaching the BCG. Almost like having a rifle length gas sytem with the reliability of a carbine length gas system.

Why not prep it and let one of the "quick" painters do the painting. Most problems from the "quick" places is their prep sucks. I have seen several cars that were prepped well that turned out great.

Go to Walmart and buy a Maverick 88. They are the same as a Mossberg 500 except it has the safety on the trigger guard which I think is better. It is better if you ever use a pistol grip. You can get them for under $225 out the door.

Says lab mix but it looks like a pit mix. That is what I could tell from the photo. It is a photo that is not for the faint of heart or animal lovers.

She wasn't always old. The hag part I agree with.

If the temperature didn't dip below freezing on that day in the 80's the US would be a much better place.

Looks great. I have threated to make a "tactical Tokarev" for a while. Installing better sights and figuring out some better grips. I absolutely am in love with the caliber. I have 500 pices of Starline brass, several sets of dies and bullet mold for the caliber. I just need to find a gun.   Have you tried shooting it at 300 meters to see if your sight is on? I know the one I shot at 25 yards was like 3" high because of the tall rear sight.

I would, without a doubt, have someone's ass if they did that. I say it all the time that people are aweful and this is just another cause of people being aweful. If my dog was aggressive towards someone and was not on my property then yeah defend yourself.   I find it hard to believe a mayor was at the scene of a loose dog unless they were there for some other reason. Hate to bring up conspiracy crap but who is to say they didn't let the dog go in the first place. There were 409 residents in Dowell according to the last census, hard to believe there isn't more to the story.   I bet there is a background between all those involved, the mayor, the officer and the dog's owners. Too bad the dog had to pay the price for some aweful humans.