Dolomite_supafly

Yes, it is the same powder they use with a powder coating gun that uses static electricity to coat the parts.

The new "official" story is I was trying to fight off a black panther after it attacked me in my yard.

Today, for father's day, I get to sit in bed all day rather than go out like I had wanted.   Yesterday I wasn't paying attention and managed to brush up against a sheet of stained glass, cutting myself. It is hard to judge size by the picture but is 5" long and about a 1/2" deep. I considered going to the hospital but decided against it after I got the bleeding to stop. It took about 20 minutes of pressure to get it to stop. Then my wife bandaged me up. This morning it was even more painful removing the dried on bandages. They were soaked in hydrogen peroxide to loosen them before removing.   Now I am going to sit around today and let it air dry.   I am not going to post the picture in here. If you want you can click on the link. But be forwarned it is not for the queasy. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/IMG_0026r_zps27a2b7f5.jpg Not as bad as some but it is still pretty ugly.

A few more things.   I am not sure if 400 degrees is enough but the bullets seem to have more of a metal sound to them as if they have been hardened. Not sure if they are but for what I am doing I don't care.   As far as accuracy goes I have shot the same exact load with and without coated bullets. The bullets using Lee Alox were .309" and the coated bullets were .311". The coated, but unsized, bullets shot groups that were noticeably smaller than those bullets that used Lee Alox.   All other variables were as close to identical as humanly possible. Both were shot from the same gun within 10 minutes of each other. The same rest was used for each. The same powder and charge. The same OAL. The same primers. The days was sunny at about 75 degrees with no wind. They were fired from a Savage Striker with a 16" barrel that is chambered in 300 Blackout. The velocity was ~1,050 fps at 10 feet from the muzzle.

I edited this to say use Laquer thinner. It makes the process fool proof. It is amazing and the only variable is the amount of powder. I was able to use a lot less than when using acetone and with laquer thinner the coat was much nicer. I decided to try the laquer thinner an it is fool proof. Add a little powder then swirl around to see if you have enough to coat the bullets. Then pour off the excess laquer thinner and pour the bullets out. Wait for them to dry then bake. The powder coat powder does not stick to the plastic bucket and for some reason ONLY sticks to the bullets. I am absolutely amazed at the results. So I have been promising a write up with a few pictures. Here are the items you will need Powder coating powder For the powder I have tried expensive powders and cheap powder. They all seem to work equally well. I initially used Harbor Freight red and it worked well so I order a few other colors from Powder by the Pound. They arrived quickly and they were cheap in 2oz sizes and it is a Tennessee company. I made sure to order the 400 degree powder from PBTP. Acetone Laquer Thinner The acetone laquer thinner is just like you find at any hardware store. Nothing special but I would caution against using nail polish removed that is acetone as they tend to have other ingredients that might affect adhesion. Container For the container I found some small buckets at Walmart for $2 each. They seem to work well with the size batches I am doing. I think any container will work providing the acetone doesn't eat it. Screen I used 1/4" hardware clothe that is available at most home improvement stores. I cut a piece just big enough to fit in the oven then I rolled the edges up to keep the bullets from rolling off. A word of caution. These are generally zinc plated and zinc is bad for you if it gets too hot. At 400 degrees there isn't any fumes but at 425 it was smoking. Toaster oven I bought one at Big Lot for $30 which is about the price for anywhere else. It needs to go to at least 400 degrees to work. Be careful as I have seen some that only went to 300 degrees. I will also caution against buying them used as the thermostat is what generally goes and you end up with a stove you cannot control the temperature on. Mask You need to have a filtered mask. Not a dusk mask but a mask that is designed to filter out fumes. I picked mine up a Harbor Freight for less than $20 and it works great. Eye protection I wear glasses so this is not an issue but I will say after every time I have done this I have spots on my glasses. So without eye protection you will likely get something in your eye. ******************************************************************************************* Now onto the instructions First I start by preheating the oven. I will put it on 400 degrees and set the timer for 15 minutes. It doesn't take 15 minutes to heat up that small oven. I put on my mask and eyeprotection before opening either the acetone or the powder. The powder can be as harmful as the acetone until the powder is baked on so ALWAYS wear your mask. Now I choose the color I want to use and add it to the bucket first. Here is how much powder I put in the bucket for ~100-150 bullets. You definitely want to add enough to coat the bullets. I normally add 2-3 scoops of powder using a 1.9 Lee dipper to measure. This is generally enough to do a batch of 100-150 bullets, depending on the size of the bullets. Next I add the acetone to the powder. This is generally how much acetone I use. There is no scientific measuring method for this but I will say you want too much rather than too little. If you have too much it adds a few minutes to the tumbling and evaporating time but if you add too little the bullets will come out blotchy and dull. At this point I begin to swirl the mixture around. If you have some clumps you can add 5-10 bullets to help break them up before adding the rest of the bullets. After the mixture is nice and uniform I now I add the bullets and begin tumbling by hand. At this point I begin to lightly shake the mixture up. I generally do a back and forth motion with a swirl every 2-3 times around. I will also kind of flip the bullets end over end like you do when flipping a pancake. You want to tumble them just vigorously enough to coat the bullets with the mixture. And you continue to shake, and shake and the bullets will not looked coated at all. They will have a light tinge of color but the silver is definitely shining through. Then finally the acetone begins evaporating and the amount of time is dependent on how much there is as well as the temperature. And it will not evaporate very quickly if you do not tumble. You can actually set the bucket down for 30-45 minutes and they will still need to be tumbled. But tumbling will evaporate the acetone enough within 5 minutes of constant tumbling. And as the acetone evaporates the bullets get more and more color. And when the bullets seem to be holding on to the color this is a critical time. You want to dump the bullets while they are still wet, but not too wet, but definitely do it before they get too dry. If the acetone evaporates too much the bullets will not have a wet look and will actually have a dull, rough finish. It doesn't affect performance from testing but it does look like crap. At this point the bullets should be uniformly covered with color AND still wet to the touch. There should be some of the mixture in the bottom of the bucket and on the bullets that is about the consistency of Testor's paint. It should still run from gravity and if the bulelts have color but the coating is still running in the bottom of the bucket then it is time to dump the bullets. Another big indicator for me is the sound of the tumbling bullets. The sound changes slightly as the bullets are trying to move agains the resistance of the thicker coating. This is how they should look right before dumping them out onto the screen. Uniform in color, still wet to the touch and still shiny. (Sorry for the crappy picture). I do not have a picture but you dump them out onto the screen. Then I give them a quick shake to try to keep some from sitting on top of others. At this point the bullets will dry very quickly and I give them a quick shake every 30 seconds or so until dry. After about 2-3 minutes they will be dry to the touch and not be tacky. When they are I seperate the bullets as best as I can on the screen so none of them are touching while they bake. Then I stick the bullets and screen into the toaster oven which is set to 400 degrees. I set the timer and let the bullets bake for 10-15 minutes depending on the size of the bullets and how they are looking. As they bake they will become a little more shiny than when they were dry. Once they are uniform in how shiny they all look I carefully remove them from the oven. And this is how they will look coming straight out of the oven, shiny. I set them out to cool for 10 minutes or so. The powder coat will be tacky when they first come out and will remain tacky for 3-5 minutes until they have cooled enough to allow the powder coat to harden. After that you can touch the bullets but be careful because they will still be extremely hot. And if you touch them while they are still tacky they can stick to your finger, ask me how I figured that one out. After that you can either shoot them as they are or size them down dependong on your application. Sizing them does not remove the finish at all. The coating seems to add about .002" to the size of the bullets. So if you have bullets that are the same size or .001" over the bore size as cast then they will not need to be sized after they are coated. If the bullets are any larger as cast then you might try sizing them down to .002" over the bore size. I have personally pushed these to over 2,000 fps without any issues. As a matter of fact the bore seems a lot cleaner than with jacketed or cast and lubed. I have read of people pushing them to 2,800 fps without issue. The advantages are that the bore never leads. It is also cleaner. And the biggest advantage is it encapsulates the lead to prevent exposure. This si something I will be doing with all my cast bullets. And I am not 100% positive they need to be baked. Here is a bag on its way back to Caster: And finally, if you have ANY questions feel free to ask.

Here is one I did a few years ago. It was actually very easy and only took about an hour to do. Here is another with the same kind but it was a little to gray for my area. It needed more greens. BTW, these were done with Krylon. It is the easiest to use and touch up. Once it has cured for a few weeks it is really durable. You can handle and use it the same day but is a little easy to chip.

And it could double as an anti aircraft sight when all the drones are flyong overhead.

I have ran the bullet I designed which is 240E in Accurate's catalog. I recently sold it to another person. I am deciding on what to try next but I think it will be another of my designs, 225B in Accurate's catalog. 245E worked great but I am trying different stuff looking for something that works with my bolt guns. That is the only problem with Accurate molds, they have a larger meplat which can cause cycling issues with some bolt guns.   I also run a Lee 155 grain 2R mold in .311". It is the one that has the standard lube grooves and not the tumble lube version. The tumble lube version has issues with AR's.   Because I am now coating I think I am going to try the Lee 230 grain again. As a cast bullet it sucks but hopefully with the coating it will work OK.   I quit running everything in February after I poisoned myself. I am getting close to start casting again.

Just wanted to say the OP is a great guy. Fast shipper with excellent communication.

I NEVER use any type of cloth to shield parts to prevent damage. To hold parts inside a vice I ALWAYS use leather because it works great, holds the parts well and is very difficult to damage a gun. I always use brass punches for smaller stuff and aluminum rods for stuff that needs more brute force.   sLk1's method for fitting sights works great on 90% of the sights out there. And if you accidentally take too much off fixing it is easy. I will use a pointed punch to put  few dimples on the slide INSIDE the dovetail or do the same to the underneath of the sight. Some sights are actually hardened material so using a punch to move material can be very difficult. Most slides that I have worked on are soft steel inside the sight dovetail.

As much as I hate Bear Grylls I have bought a parang of his for a friend. It is a very nice piece that has a full tang. It feels great in the hand with a good heft without being too heavy. The only issue I had with it is it came dull. It would probably still cut most stuff and would be easy to sharpen. If I had to buy another this would be it.   My personal machete is a standard one with a few mods done to it to help function as a day to day tool if I need it. I have sharpened it with a working edge and then I added a razor sharp section close tot eh handle for stripping stuff easily.

Well after a long search I recently managed to find a set of small base 300 Blackout dies. Got them in and then I realized I need the .311" expander ball to work with my cast and coated bullets. Using the .308" expanding ball will leave the neck too small and may size my cast bullets down smaller than I need them to be.   So I called them to order the .311" expander. They looked it up and he asked what I was loading and I told him 300 Blackout but because I shoot cast I need a larger neck. He agreed. He found the item and took my address down. Then he said he would have it in the mail Monday. I said thanks and asked him when he was going to take my credit card info. He said not to worry about it and I didn't need to pay. I tried several times but he kept refusing any payment.   This isn't the first time. I once called for another expander ball after it wasn't in a set of dies I bought used. Same thing except when I got my package a few days later it also included five decapping pins.   Every time I have called them for parts or information they have went well above what I would expect.   Because of this I think I am going to make an effort to buy from RCBS first and Lee second. I am a huge fan of Lee and their customer service is generally pretty good but I have had issues from time to time with Lee but NEVER with RCBS.    

This may not stop the fight instantly like a gun can but it will ensure only one story is told if it is done correctly. But as we have seen here only one story may not be enough.   A person will not recover from a severed femoral if treatment isn't given in 5 minutes. It can be a lot quicker but 5 minutes is about tops on a unrestricted bleed. Unless the person is extremely lucky there is no way an ambulance or trained person will be there within those 5 minutes.   The body is amazingly durable thing but it is also extremely fragile during certain circumstances. Loose too much blood and even though it is stopped it can take days, weeks and sometimes even months to die. Without oxygen or the ability to carry oxygen the average person is probably going to be dead inside of those same 5 minutes.

PM sent with particulars.   Removed for safety and liability reasons.

So DaveS question for you.   You posted this in another thread: http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/65835-must-a-person-take-a-butt-whoopin-before-you-pull-a-firearm/page-3   So how is it OK for you to "let the air out of them" and Zimmerman is in the wrong for doing exactly the same thing?    You have acknowledged several times in this thread that Martin was on top of Zimmerman and he let the air out of Trayvon for using his hands in an aggressive manner. If it is legal for you to do it why is it now illegal for someone else to do it?  

  Again, show me where I can be prosecuted for a hate crime for calling someone a name, any name.   Now if I call them a (protected) name and follow it up with violence I can be charged but not for name calling alone. As a matter of fact I can call someone an idiot then follow it up with violence and it is not a hate crime, that is unless idiots are now a protected class.   I have looked all through the Wikipedia link and under the crimes there is no category for name calling.   I still stand by original statement.

You are not goign to find a better tube than this for the money: http://nordiccomp.com/retail/shop/ar-15-10/nc-free-float-hand-guard-rifle-length/ http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2545182639/nordic-components-slotted-customizable-free-float-tube-handguard-ar-15-aluminum-black Make sure to buy the top rail so you can attach your sights.     As far as sights go I have ordered about two dozen of these and given them away to people: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271158352803?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_7422wt_1448 They are great and for the moeny they cannot be beat.   You hear me talk all the time about a properly gassed gun and the benefits. Grab one of these: http://bte-usa.com/parts/micro-gasblocks.htm They are the cheapest adjustable block on the market but are very nice quality. Where else can you find a SS, not aluminum, adjustable gas block for under $50 shipped. They are clamp on which is my prefered method versus setscrews.   Don't forget a flash hider and crush washer.

  So if I call someone an idiot (or any other name) and they decide to fight me because of it I am in the wrong? I don't think so.

And provide all kinds of evidence that would likely be brought up in court. And expert testimony regarding the call is worthless in my eyes. Each side has their witnesses supporting their claims. I could find an expert to opine that the screams on the tape are from leprichaun having he leg humped by a chupacabra.   If GZ wanted to attack TM he would have done it without making a call to police. If TM was in fear, and not doing anything wrong, he would have beat on the first door he seen. But rather than do that TM thought he would confront, try to intimidate and then begin to beat GZ in order to get away. TM was up to no good and this likely caused GZ to believe TM was acting in a suspicious manner.   We are told to not confront and be a good witness if at all possible. That is exactly what GZ was doing when TM attacked him. It is obvious by the phone call GZ was attempting to observe TM.   Anyone, including GZ, has the right to follow and observe a suspicious person. GZ even had the right to ask TM what his name is or what he is doing. TM didn't have to answer but GZ had every right to ask. I know I ask people all the time who they are and what they are doing on the road I live on. Some respond and some tell me to FO but it is still my right to ask. It lets those who might be up to no good that people are watching them.

I would really consider becoming a member of the site above. I have heard the YHM silencers are hardly the best even though their prices seem to indicate they think so.

I will probably have a "How-To" on the powder coating this weekend sometime. I have some to do but I want to do a little more testing before I do. Specifically if they need to be baked or not.

Get a set of brass punches. They will bend and squish rather than the steel. The worst that can happen is ou have some gold colored smearing that comes off easily. The brass puches are expenable items because they do't last forever like steel does.   Another option that I routinely do is use a rubber mallet directly against the sights and just beat them into submission. Definitely will not bend or dent the metal but it generally takes a few more hits.

  Double check your chronograph. With the numbers being all over the place, while still shooting a great group. it almost sounds like you might be too close to the chronograph.   I use SMP842 to load 53 SMK's. I am using 1+ grain more powder than you and getting less fps. This is in a gun that has a 20" barrel.  My SD with SMP842 was 1.73 fps and as amazing as it sounds it has been double checked several times and the numbers are staying the same.   If you are using a bolt gun with a long barrel the extra fps would make sense.   I might need to go mix all of my SMP842 just to make sure it is consistent.

Now because E7 tried to destroy the integrity of the jury is there not anything the courts could do? It would seem as though he perjured himself or should be held accountable.   The problem with our justice system is it no longer is about justice and that people have no problem lying anymore. If people were actually held accountable for the lies they tell the world would be a better place.

No, as long as the barrel extension hasn't been loosened at all. Most barrel extensions are pinned in place but I have seen some where the pin doesn't pin anything in place.   99 out of 100 times you have nothing to worry about.   As long as you pulled the barrel straight out of the receiver without twisting on it you will be fine.