Dolomite_supafly

  He couldn't raise his arms high enough to ring the doorbell. I bet his knuckles hurt from dragging all the way back to the truck. My mail lady doesn't even think about lifting my boxes of lead. She tells us we have a box and my wfe has to go grab it.

Pretty sure a 223 Saiga can be fitted with a magazine well to use AR mags. They are easy to convert into a pistol grip configuration like an AK should be. You can convert them for under $200 in less than an hour with no special tools.   Just curious, why an AK in 223 when an AR is more accurate and under normal conditions just as reliable?

  Before you buy or build get a hold of me so we can talk. I can steer you in the right direction of what to buy depending on what you plan on doing with it.

You can sell give them to anyone who is at least 18 years old and is a Tennessee resident as long as you believe they are not barred from owning a firearm. Personally, I would have them sign a bill of sale to prove you no longer own them.

I am not trying to be holier than thou. Just stating that if you were convicted of DV and you marked "NO" on the form you bought a gun you broke the law. That is not being holier than thou, that is stating a fact. Just because you got away with it doesn't change the fact you broke the law if you purchased a gun after being convicted, by plea or not, of domestic violence. Just because the government didn't catch you the first 6 times doesn't mean they are the ones at fault here.   In the OP you said you WERE convicted. This tells me you belived you had been convicted of DV. If the charges were dismissed it then you have nothing to worry about but you went from being found guilty to it being dismissed in less than 10 posts. I know if I was arrested for something, not matter how long ago it was, I would remember what charges I had and if I was convicted of those charges or not. If there is a valid reason to deny a gun purchase it will likely prevent you from getting a HCP.   I am pretty sure you would NOT get denied a gun purchase for a simple assault or an assault case that does not have the disposition. That might get you denied for a HCP but not for a gun purchase. Seems to me it would have to be something a bit more serious than a simple assault for them to deny a gun purchase. Could be the DV charge was never dismissed in the computer after you were charged with the simple assault.   Either way the ball is rolling because you were denied. They are going to look into why you were denied and if it was in error then you will not be in trouble or hear anything more about it. But if you were convicted of DV then during the investigation they will look into your history of purchasing guns and find out about the other guns you have purchased. Then they will go to those shops you purchased the handguns from and secure the forms you filled out when you bought those guns. Then, in the end, if you were convicted of DV and you marked "NO" to the question you might find yourself in trouble, serious trouble. This is exactly what ALL sides of the gun control debate are wanting, to enforce current laws and punish those who buy guns illegally.   Also, you only mentioned handguns but a DV conviction not only bars a person from owning hand guns but also long guns.   Did you file an appeal at the store you were denied at? Errors are made all the time but you MUST file an appeal to find out if the denial was made in error.

That was meant for the OP not you Mike.     The times I have seen it the person wasn't trying it once, twice or three time but a dozen or more times and bringing it from left field. I guess they figured more momentum would help. One I watched a guy drop the rifle from chest height repeatedly until the lower cracked at the rear takedown pin hole. Most times I don't stick around once they start, I have seen guns bounce and point where they were supposed to.   BTW, these were NOT military weapons. They were personally owned guns at private ranges.

The reloads are not sized down enough for your gun.   I will caution about mortaring an AR. I have seen several AR's break where the buffer tube and the lower meet while doing this. When I stick a round I use a rubber mallet and smack the charging handle.

You can use standard mild steel rather than the carbon in the video. I used rebar rods rather than the carbon plates in the video. You must add washing soda. NOT BAKING SODA OR WASHING POWDER. I added a tablespoon per 5 gallon bucket.

Can you take a picture of the serial number? Style and spacing can go a long way for determining real vs fake.   For rust removal do this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOx5URgjTiU My father was given a gun that was in a fire. It subsequently rusted up tight. The cyclinder could not be opened or turned. The hammer would not budge and you could not tell anything about the gun itself other than it was a modern revolver. After about 10 minutes we were able to open the cylinder and it even rotated on the ejector rod. You could even cock the hammer and the cyclinder would lock up. The springs were all shot but the hammer would lock in place until you pulled the trigger. You could even read what model and caliber it was. I will say that the slower you go the better it seemed to work. If you use a welder it will boil while if you use less electricity it will just bubble.

If you are close to the jurisdiction where it happened go get a copy of the disposition of the case. Should be able to tell you if it is DV or SA. You really do need to find out because with the big push as of late to enforce laws you might find yourself in trouble if you were convicted of DV and have been purchasing firearms. LE  doesn't care if you got away with it previously or not, if they can charge you they will.   This brings up a serious question. What have you been putting on the 4473 when it asks if you have ever been convicted of DV? If you are worried about it being found out now then at some point you must have thought and consciencely lied on a form previously. If there is one thing that willl prove you lied it is the form you filled out

  Nope, long before we had the internet on our phones we actually had to talk to a human being on the other end. :)

I am generally number 2 or 3 when I have called. And I drop down a place every repeat of the recording that takes about a minute. So at #3 you are probably on the phone less than 4 minutes before they answer. They can tell you, based on serial number, what left the factory with your gun.  You will, without a doubt, know what they are going to do before you get off the phone. They are not going to spend a lot of time trying to resolve the issue if they can do it quickly.   I have called Ruger probably 30 times in the last 18 months.

Actually a length somewhere between carbine and pistol would be better than all the carbine lengths out there. Carbine lengths have so many issues with subsonic ammo, with and without a suppressor. Pistol length is the best for subsonic ammo but can be over gassed with supersonic ammo and 16" barrels unless you meter it.

On the same page: http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/diy-extreme-hollow-point-maker-kit.aspx?a=891185   That is the most dangerous idea I have seen in a long time with FMJ rounds. You drill through the top and have an exposed bottom. This can push the core of the bullet out of the jacket leaving the jacket behind to blow your gun up with the next trigger pull.

  That is old news. We could do that long, long ago when they first added WiFi.

4" groups with Tula are great groups. I have guns that are consistent 1/2 MOA shooters that will not get 4" with Tula.   Finding the sweet spot for reloads takes time. You even said you haven't started on load development and I agree that is likely the problem more so than the gun. I use a chronograph to load. There is a correlation, I believe, Standard Deviation and vertical stringing when shooting at longer distances. Everyone has their own routine for accuracy testing. I do it this way to minimize my time at the range. I can shoot at my house so I can determine SD's without being at a range. With my testing all components are as close to being identical as humanly possible. Cases the same, bullets the same, primers the same and all are loaded in the same setting. The only variable when I test will be the powder charge and overall length of the bullet. This is how I test loads for accuracy. I will load 3 rounds with the bullet I plan to shoot starting at the minimum powder charge and at the maximum overall length. Then I load 3 more but I add .3 grains of powder to the load and again at the maximum overall length. I do this, .3 of a grain at a time, until I start to see signs of pressure. I record the results then move on to the next powder and do the same. And once I find a load that has a SD I feel is small enough I start the load development. With the same powder you will find a point where the SD numbers drop significantly. I think this is where the powder has reached is perfect efficiency. I have a 223 load that has a SD of 1.73 fps, which is amazing. I thought my chronograph was broke or the batteries were dead but after replacing the batteries it ran the same numbers again and again. And because the bullet exits at a certain part of the whip you need to find the position where the bullet exits at the same time. I normally load the 3 that had the smallest SD. Then I load 3 more with the same charge except I seat the bullet .01" deeper in the case. Then 3 more that are .01" deeper than the previous. Seating .01" deeper will change where the bullet exits during the whip of the barrel. I will generally start out seating .01" and stop at .10". That is unless I see pressure signs first. Then I take these loads and shoot them at a horizontal line on the target. I am not worried about lining up with a vertical line at this point. I try 100 or maybe even 200 yards. You are not worried about the horizontal, side to side, group size but vertical group size. That is if you have 3 rounds that are spread out over 2" vertically that means the bullets are exiting at different times during the whip. If you find that 3 rounds that are on that horizontal line, even if they are spread out horizontally, that means these are exiting very close to the same point during the whip. I also prep my brass when I am trying to squeeze the absolute last amount of accuracy of the gun. I buy brand new brass and use brass from the same lot. I trim them all then weigh them all and throw out any out of the norm. Then I uniform the flash holes and chamfer the flash hole. I uniform the primer pockets so they are identical. Then I neck size the brass followed by body sizing the brass. And when seating my primers I seat them using a die that allows me to set the depth so all primers will be the same height. For my Savages I set the headspace at 0 using the sized pieces of brass. That is I loosen the barrel nut and tighten the barrel down onto the sized piece of brass without anything providing some clearance, like tape or paper or gauges. What did all this work get me? I have a factory Savage barrel that shot .3's at 100 yards pretty consistently. And those are 7 shot groups, not 3 or 5. I haven't used this method for probably a year since I went to the 300 Blackout. I no longer shoot for the smallest groups on paper but do shoot for fun. I enjoy shooting clays and other reactive target so as long as my hand loads are able to that I am happy.  

I have some concerns over the Lee dies in 300 Blackout. I have made some ammo, as well as others, that seemed to be a little on the large side for some guns. I bought a set of RCBS dies and those problems went away. RCBS will always be my first choice from now on as well.   For those who are shooting cast in their 300 Blackouts and using RCBS dies you MUST use a different expander ball. If you call and ask for the .311" expander ball for 7.62x54 or 7.62x39 it works perfectly for those of us shooting cast. You still need to bell the case mouth slightly but at least the bullet isn't getting swaged down. My cast bullets are going in the case at .311" and coming out at .310" so the 7.62x54 expander ball is perfect.

If your wife is intimidated by a 12 gauge the muzzle blast of most AR's will also be a problem. It isn't about recoil, it is about the concussive blast for a lot of shooters. If it must be an AR I would find one in 9mm. They are identical to a 223 as far as controls but are a lot easier to shoot. With the extra barrel length it gives the 9mm 357 magnum type performance. And because it is a blowback gun it will be a lot more reliable. My wife has one that has over 9K rounds through it so far and it is supremely reliable. We have it zeroed for 100 yards and it remains within a couple of inches from the muzzle to that distance. It is still point and shoot out to 150 yards.   As far as a 9mm carbines go there are plenty out there, Beretta even makes one called the Storm. There are also a lot of other brands that work just as well but are not nearly as nice to look at. There are even some that are magazine compatible with popular pistol brands like Glock or Beretta. So you can have your Glock pistol and use the same magazines in your defensive rifle. Keltec makes the Sub 2000 that used to be really cheap. It is a great bare bones gun that would work well in a defensive role if you can find one reasonably priced.   Shooting a 223 inside is LOUD and can be very disorientating if you do not have hearing protection. 9mm is not hearing safe but it is not going to cause the same problems as a 223 does. Another consideration is muzzle flash, depending on ammo type. A 9mm rifle has very little, if any, muzzle blast while a 223 can have basketball sized muzzle flash if using certain ammo.   If you must have a 223 AR I would not be afraid of Windham, Bushmaster or Sig. They can all be bought at Walmart for under $1,000 depending on model. S&W also makes a great gun called the Sport that would easily fill your needs. It can usually be found for under $800 if you look around some.

My "critter getter" is a 22lr AR with a suppressor. It has a light and a green laser as well as a red dot. It stays loaded all the time and gets grabbed first for any four legged nuisance animals that show up. About the only noise you hear is the casings hitting the ground. Hopefully around Christmas I will start using a suppressed 300 Blackout for all my critter getting needs.   When we had birds it was 2-3 times a week we had to deal with critters. And about once a month we had dogs show up and kill our animals. We will be getting more this spring so it will be game on again. It actually is pretty good practice trying to hit an animal as it is moving around.

Not all Rugers that are drilled an tapped come with a scope base. I have had two in the last 3 years that did not come with bases but they are ALL drilled for them.   As far as calling Ruger on your dime you should be able to get through in a few minutes. I have called them dozens of times and never ahd what I would consider a long wait.

Call me tonight and I will explain how to free it up easily and cheaply.

How well does a suppressor work with it? ;)

Sorry but I cannot help you there.

See how everybody LOVES Cruz and he is a first termer. I keep saying vote out incumbants and this is why. Imagine if a bunch of Cruz type representatives were in office? If we don't support him and get some allies of his in office then he will turn just like the rest of our representatives do after a term or two. Vote out every incumbant.

I see your picture and raise you a video, or two:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEQq9EBtZu0 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u5nvFoQDJUI