Dolomite_supafly

Put the wing it on the other way and use a nut to lock it in place. For those that own a Savage the end of the bolt will accept 1/4" bits too. The bolt it generally tight enough to loosen most screws without the bolt coming apart. I even had a nut driver bit in with one of my Savages that fit my scope base. Yet another reason to own a Savage. No need to glue the magnet in place. Trust me when I say a bit will not pull it out of the holder.

I have seen comments by DOCTORS who have stated that urge to own a dangerous item, like a gun, is a mental condition.

I would still call Mesa Tactical and see what they say.

I made a call to them yesterday to check on two Form 1's I have pending. I was told they could not tell me the status and that all processing was on hold because of the shutdown. Seems like a rpetty solid fact when it comes straight out of the horses mouth.   Anyone who wants to call can, their number is (304) 616-4500. Calling does not slow down the inspector, especially now.

I will buy the takoff barrel from your TR.   Also, where di you find the TR? They have been pretty hard to find for a while now.

As soon as I get my TGO lower I am assembling what was going to be my SBR into a pistol. At least I can work out the bugs.

Gander Mountain will only price match exact items that Walmart has in stock.   What caliber you looking for?

I walked into east town Walmart yesterday and there was 22lr on the shelf. CCI Minimags and I debated on buying but walked away. Two minutes later I changed my mind and walked back only to find it was gone. It was only a single box but it was the first time in a very long time since I have seen any sitting on the shelf.

They are very accurate for such a small gun. Mine has been 100% reliable with everything. I even single load shorts and they lock the slide back.

I called to check the status of a pending Form 1 and was told they would not tell me because of the shutdown. I then asked if the processing itself was suspended as well and they said yes.   So for those of you, like me, with NFA stuff pending our wait times just went up exponentially.

Are you asking them to check their inventory? Most only check what is in the case but they have tons more.

You can walk into ANY Walmart and buy a Savage. Just ask to see the bound book for inventory or ask them if they have what you are looking for in the back. They have, on average, 10x the amount of guns in the back as on the floor. I have seen Savage "Package" deals for $384 before taxes and background. They have a cheap 3x-9x scope on it and synthetic stock. If you call around to Walmarts I guarantee you will find at least one on sale for $350 or under but it may not be the model or caliber you want. But that is the best part about a Savage, you can buy a used replacement barrel for $50 or new one for $125.   Out of the box a Savage is going to be as accurate, maybe a little more depending on the individual rifle, than most Remingtons with factory ammo. If you reload you can easily get them to shoot better than a factory Remington. Savage has a strong reputation for accuracy and there is a reason for it. I have had factory Savage barrels that would shoot sub .4" groups at 100 yards using handloads.   Remingtons are good if you don't plan on swapping calibers or barrels but with Savages you can do that as well. If you do swap barrels on a Remington it will cost a lot of gunsmith time to do it. Remington take off barrels rarely headspace correctly and to fix that is lathe time and that costs money.   WIth a Savage you can buy a spare bolt head in another caliber for ~$25. And you can swap the barrel at home in no time. New factory barrels can be had for $125-$200 depending on profile and length. So for ~$150 you can have everything to swap to another caliber with a Savage. With most other rifles you are talking about $300+ to do the same and that is if yours stay within the same rim diameter. If you want to change rim diameters add another $150 if you can get one at all with Remington. Setting headspace on a Savage does not require the use of headspace gauges. It can be done easily without any special tools.   I take my new Savage to a gunsmith the first time I loosen the barrel nut because they are on the TIGHT. They generally charge next to nothing to break the barrel nut loose. After that everything else can be done at home with hand tools. The barrel nut doesn't need to be tightened by some gorilla on steroids either. All it needs is to be snug. I set my headspace, tighten the barrel nut to lock it in place. Then I used to use a hammer and punch to turn the nut to lock it in place. I normally give it one whack and call it good. I have yet to have a barrel come loose. I recently picked up a dedicated wrench and it makes life a little easier with certain barrel nuts.   Aftermarket support for Savage is as good as any other maker now. You can buy quality aftermarket stocks, aftermarket triggers, mounts and even drop in match quality barrels for Savage. The cost for a drop in match barrel for a Savage is less than having a barrel fitted to other brands in most cases.   In the end if changing calibers is not in your future any rifle will work, including a Savage.   Personally I would look on the used gun market for a Savage with a round back receiver. These are newer actions and they tend to be more square from what I have been told by several big name builders. You can generally find a used Savage for around $250-$300. If you are lucky you can find on in the caliber you want. And if you decide you want to upgrade the barrel there are drop in match barrels avalable for under $300. Shilen, McGowen, PacNor, ER Shaw as well as a few others I cannot remember all make drop in barrels for a Savage.   The only downside to owning a Savage, if there is one, is the Remington guys tend to give Savage owners grief.

They add weight and dialing back the gas will reduce the felt recoil just the same. Use standard parts first that way you don't end up with a upper or lower that will only work with its mate. The best thing about the 300 is you are supposed to be able to toss any upper on any lower and have it run.

I have literally shot probably 50K rounds through my conversions. They are excellent training tools and reasonably accurate. I would say that hitting a squirrel at 30 yards will happen 7 out of 10 times. Ammo also makes a difference but the biggest problem with the accuracy is the conversion itself.   Here is something I posted about a year ago after some testing. http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/49124-why-your-ar-conversion-wont-shoot-accurately/   Basically most conversions swage the .224"-.225" rimfire bullet down to .221". I opened up my conversion and accuracy improved immensely. But it was still no where near as accurate as a dedicated setup.

Find some glow in the dark stickers and stick them on the back side. Using a LED to light them would be pretty straightforward as well.

I use chalkboard paint anymore. Once baked it is very, very durable. You can buy it at Walmart for under $6 a can. It has something in it to make it more durable than most other paints I have tried.

Pay very close attention to how the hammer spring goes onto the hammer. I have worked on a number of guns that were having light strike issues and they all had the hammer spring backwards. Something else to make sure to do it put the legs of the hammer spring on the trigger pin. The hammer spring legs hold the trigger pin in place.   The best way to hold the front detent down is a razor.   Also, I drill and tap the rear takedown detent hole for a 4-40 set screw. You shorten the spring and it will remain captured by the setscrew. That way you don't loose the detent when changing stocks.   They are SERIOUS about supporting the bottom of the trigger guard as you hammer in the roll pin. There are a lot of lowers out there with broken ears because it wasn't supported properly. It is the only part that really scares me, even today. I normally get it started then use a vice to finish.

  Paint.

I have used Gen 3 ANPVS 14's a lot so I have plenty of experience with them but not with the clip on NV or the digital NV.   Question I have is has anyone tried the digital night vision and how do they compare to a Gen 2/3?   I am also looking at some clip on NV that mount ahead of a scope. The recommend scopes in the6x-7x power range. Will they work with say a 10x or 12x? I really like the idea of a clip on because I can move it from gun to gun without affecting zero.   In the end I want a weapon that is capable of firing accurately at night to at least 200 yards. Whether it is a digital or a standard doesn't matter.   Anyone have anything to say about the Armasight brand? I am looking at the Armasight CO-MR Gen 2+.   I also really like the Pulsar N550N/750 digital NV as well because I can create custom reticles as well as record what is seen through the scope. The down sides are it is HUGE and it cannot be moved from gun to gun as easily.   Both are in similar price ranges.

  About 2.5".   I would suggest running an adjustable gas block regardless of what configuration you have or caliber you have. A lot of guns these days are over gassed and the easiest and cheapest cure for that is an adjustable gas block. Here is a write up on the issue of over gassed guns: http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/56496-over-gassing-an-ar-and-the-problems-is-causes/   An adjustable gas block is not only about being reliable but also about recoil. A lot of recoil from an AR comes from the bolt and buffer hitting the back of the buffer tube. If you adjust the gas system so it barely hits the back of the buffer tube the recoil will be recduced. It also helps with reliability because a properly gassed gun also runs cleaner because the bolt remains locked longer and doesn't unlock until the pressure drops inside the barrel.

As well as being a loser. The reason why some of these kids have the problems they do is the parents do not prepare their kids for failure. Then when that 14, 15, 16 or 17 year old fails for the first time they loose it and either hurt themselves or others. Every child should be allowed to fail, even at an extremely early age. The more accustomed with failure the better they will cope with it later in life. As well as the fact no one can demand respect. The only way to get respect is to earn it. A lot of problems today is people think they are entitled to, and demand, respect but it is not an entitlement and cannot be demanded.

There is only on thing those high priced coolers can do that the Coleman can't, keeping up with the Johnson's. There are a lot of products that are high priced just so someone can brag about how much they spent.

[quote name="jeff43" post="1044679" timestamp="1381083396"] Stevens model 200 is good too.[/quote I try to use these more so than a Savage. The Stevens receivers are more uniform because they don't go the the fluff and buff like some Savage models.

Just a reminder we are taking about anything but the Axis or the Edge. Those, although good, are not very buildable.

Odd.   Above my head.