Dolomite_supafly

Here is one that does NOT require any NFA paperwork. Can be bought and taken home immediately. https://www.gunsamerica.com/blog/short-barrel-no-hassle-black-aces/ Just throwing it out there for those who do not do the NFA thing.

I wonder if you could screw some extra sections onto a different one and make a super silencer if you have more than one of those Dead Air Ghosts? Legalities?

You want the shorter barrel with a threaded muzzle. You will be able to shoot cheap bulk pack 22 and it will remain subsonic. With a 4.5" barrel certain brands will be supersonic and they will be about as loud as without a silencer.

Get a Redding body die to bump the entire case back into shape when it needs it. Get the Lee collet die and use it to squeeze the neck back into shape. I normally take a few thousandths off the diameter of the pin to get it a bit more neck tension so I do not have to crimp. I have used a factory Savage barrel to shoot .2's at 100 yards. It was a 26" 7 twist barrel with fluting. If you are wanting the most accuracy you MUST do a lot of work to your brass, even new or quality brass, and bullets. One of the things I do is uniform and deburr the flash hole. Lyman makes the perfect tool for this. It made such a big improvement that I do that to every single rifle case now. Size, trim and weigh the cases into lots. This will ensure the cases are as identical as possible. Use quality brass. Winchester is about the best "budget" brass. For the bullets I would get two Hornady comparators for a 223 and attach each to a caliper. That way you can measure the bearing surface of the bullets. Sierra tends to be pretty uniform in weight but their bearing surface can vary. Sort them by bearing surface length. The longer the bearing surface the higher the pressure and the higher the pressure the higher the velocity. So if you have an identical case with an identical charge of powder and you have two bullets that weigh the same but have different bearing surface lengths the gun will string vertically. I never got into turning necks because consistent .3's was good enough for me. I would start out with 24.5-24.7 grains of Varget under a 69 SMK loaded to 2.24". That seems to be a very, very accurate load in a lot of guns (not just mine). Velocity will be down some with shorter barrels but boy was this accurate in a lot of my guns. In a 16" barrel it ran ~2,350 fps and in a 26" barrel it ran ~2,950 fps. My barrel did not mind the jump and actually shot better loaded to magazine length rather than to the lands. The key to accuracy is consistency. There are also things that you must do to a Savage to squeak every last bit of accuracy. Make sure the cocking pin is not bottoming out on the bolt body. Make sure firing pin protrusion is as close to .042" as possible. Savage's are the easiest guns to make adjustments to and anything you might need to do to a Savage doesn't require a gunsmith. The best trigger YOU can install in a Savage is the Sharp Shooter Supply competition trigger. But DO NOT order directly from them, it will take them a lot longer to deliver and they are temperamental if you complain. So buy it from anywhere else that sells them. Matter of fact do not buy anything from SSS directly, just not worth the risk. If you want I can PM you my number and we can discuss Savages and how to make them shoot.

If you call around to some smaller police departments they sometimes have blank cards you can write the ORI information into. I wonder if they will kick it back for not having the ORI on the cards? I suspect they will. BTW, I assume you did it as an individual.

Kind of related but unrelated. While I was in the military in Germany I travelled a lot with a team. The team was made up of different soldiers depending on what we were escorting. We were on a mission and had a few new soldiers one of which was a German citizen who joined the US Army so he can expedite his citizenship. Anyways, one of the stops was at Bergin-Belsen, a concentration camp during WWII. While there the conversation turned to us talking about concentration camps and things related to it. The soldier, who was German, obviously had some sort of personal connection by the way he spoke about it. After a few minutes the German mentioned that his grandfather was killed in one of the concentration camps. One of the other soldiers piped up and said his grandfather had also died in a WWII concentration camps. The German perked up and started to say something until the other solder said "yeah, my grandfather fell out of the guard tower and died". At that point there was a lot of pushing, shoving and yelling. Needless to say those two never worked together again.

My subsonic rounds are under a nickel a shot. I cast everything I shoot so the only cost I really have is the primer at $100/5000 and the ~8 grains of powder. Been working with the 300 Blackout since before it was a caliber. Have a couple of successful bullet designs with a third on the way. Newest one is a 265 grain behemoth that will feed from a magazine and is stable in anything 8 twist or faster at subsonic speeds. Get it to ~1,100 fps and it is stable in a 10 twist. It also uses about 1/4 less powder and that means your silencer has less gas to deal with so your gun is quieter. And single shot loads are magical in how quiet they are, most people think it is a misfire without ears on. The bullet was designed around the 300 Blackout rather than trying to find an off the shelf solution. We are getting 1.5 MOA groups WITHOUT load development. Several testers think they will get them to shoot MOA with a little work.

I forget the maker but there is a factory lower with this mod. Doing this modification is really easy too. The tap is not really tight fitting so you would have to try hard to break it. Still plenty of thread for the set screw. Do not tap all the way in, all you need is for the shortest 4-40 setscrew to be slightly below flush. I would also suggest you finding a drill bit that fits tightly in the hole. Then run that drill bit back into the hole after you tap it. If not the spring can sometimes bind on the material raised by cutting the threads.

Looking good.

He sells pipe bombs and suicide vests as well. Definitely pushing the envelope.

You do not have to notify anyone when crossing state lines with a silencer.

Not hard at all to disassemble but reassembly can be a pain if you have never done it. But 99% of the time I will just hose the gun down with WD-40 run the action a few times then hit it with high pressure air until dry.

Just going to go ahead a lock this for several reasons.

Something else a lot of people may not know is the insurance for YOUR car generally covers you in a rental as well. We just rented a mid size for Thursday through Tuesday for under $150. Had it for a day before the trip was cancelled and the manager at the rental place voided the transaction so it didn't cost me a penny.

Here is a video explaining a lot of what Ballistic AE does. Here is a video on how to really fine tune your trajectory.

There is one tool that has helped me more than anything else when it comes to learning about ballistics. That is Ballistic AE (Advanced Edition). It is available for Apple products and is the best app out there for calculating firing solutions. It costs $20 but is worth a lot more. It really is an amazing piece of kit. It gets updated regularly and has every bullet, in every caliber, on the market or at least I have yet to find a bullet not in the catalog. When I go to zero I select the bullet (there is literally thousands) I am using, I shoot across a chronograph to get velocity and input that into the program. Next I hit a single icon within the program and the program polls all the local cell phone towers to determine your location. The it uses the cell phone data to get the average weather conditions like temperature, humidity, height and that is your zero conditions. And the next place you shoot you hit the same icon and the program does the same thing again but this time it makes changes based on the difference between the zero conditions and current conditions. It has traditional trajectory charts but also has a HUD where you can make changes on the fly. It takes into account the earths rotation, the bullets curve as well as the firing angle when shooting up or down from horizontal. This program allowed me to get first round hits at 350 yards shooting subsonic ammunition. I have used Strelok, Knights Armament and a bunch of free apps and Ballistic AE is the best, period. http://ballisticapp.com/

I might when I get ready to start casting. Have a good friend who is going to let me borrow his as well.

I got it covered. Tony Tromix is sending me a chamber gauge.

I am working on a bullet for the 458 SOCOM. Unfortunately I cannot get the information I need from either Marty or anyone making barrels or uppers. What I am needing is the freebore length, throat length and freebore diameter. And for this project I will also be looking for those experienced with loading the 458. Thanks

How many do you have? The reason I ask is most bullet manufacturers will sell their bullets without lube. What powder are you planning on using? Harbor Freight powders should be avoided for a couple of reasons. First, they just don't work well and second some Harbor Freight powders may have abrasives in them. I know of a few people who have claimed their Harbor Freight powder ruined their barrels when the rifling went missing. I have tried Harbor Freight powders, every one of them, and they just were not worth it. I have ruined more bullets trying to use Harbor Freight powder than it is worth. The best powder to use is Powder Buy The Pound powder. I use the TGIC polyester with a 400 degree baking temperature. You can buy it by the pound or by the ounce and is very affordable to try different colors. How are you planning on applying the powder coat? I have tried every single method out there and the end result can vary widely depending on the powder and how it is applied. I apply dry powder using a vibratory tumbler. I put the bullets in first and let them run for a couple of minutes to prepare the surface for the coating. Next I slowly add in the powder while the tumbler is running until there is a nice even coat on all the bullets, usually 3-5 minutes. I pour them into a sieve and shake off the excess while using high pressure air to remove any thick coating. Be careful using air around powder coating powder, it is considered a cancer causing agent in California until it is baked. I do not arrange them, I just tumble them with the powder, pour them into a wire basket, shake off the excess and bake. I set my oven at 350 and bake them for ~20 minutes depending on the batch size. The coating does not need to look perfect to work perfect either. I have had some that were less than 50% coated and they still worked fine. The thinner the coating the better because if the coating is a little thick on one side it can cause the bullet to become unstable or inaccurate. The reason is when you size the bullet the thick coating moves the lead causing the bullet to become out of balance. Depending on the twist rate the bullet can become very inaccurate. What caliber is this for? And if you need any help I can PM my number so you can call.

http://www.capitol.tn.gov/

With a 100 yard zero you will need less than 30 MOA, 27.9 to be exact, total to get to 1,000. That is using a 140 Amax at ~2,840 fps. 900 yards is 23.4 moa with a 100 yard zero Total drop at 1,000 is 293".

How far are you shooting and what is the caliber?

We are getting closer and closer to my 300 Blackout bullet to becoming a reality but I need some help. It is a 265+ grain bullet (depending on alloy) that I designed to feed in an AR15. It is the heaviest bullet that was designed specifically for the 300 Blackout. Everything about this bullet is optimized for the 300 Blackout. The case capacity, specifically how much was left for the powder after the bullet is seated, is optimized for the powders typically used in the 300 Blackout. That is because we all know that case fill and powder position can affect accuracy. So this bullet was designed to give the optimal space so your powders will not only burn more completely but also more consistently. It is that consistency that leads to accuracy. The nose profile is optimized for feeding in an AR 15 but care was also taken to make this bullet accurate in a widest variety of chambers possible. Because it was designed specifically for the 300 Blackout is also very forgiving when working up loads. Even without load development we are seeing positive results and those results will only get better as people use the bullet. Consistent 1.5 MOA groups using this cast bullet without ANY load development is what is being reported by some of my current testers. Those groups will shrink once we get into the load development phase of testing. I have several years in the project and we are really close to going into production but I am wanting to get more test data first. I am looking for some more people who want to try out these bullets. If anyone is interested please contact me. Prefer someone who is experienced at casting as I will send them one of the prototype molds to cast with. When these go into production I will also be looking for more people to test the production bullet. Those interested in testing the production bullets do not need experience in casting. I will submit another post when we are ready for people to test the production bullets.

The slab is going to cost you ~$4,500 to have set up and poured. I base that on my cost to have a pad poured for my garage within the last year. From what I gather a lot of concrete guys who work for themselves charge 2x the cost of the concrete for everything. That is they take the cost of the concrete only then charge you the same amount for labor. 3,000 psi concrete, which is what they should use, should cost somewhere around $100 a yard depending on the company. A word of advice. If looks matter make sure to get some references or look at some reviews. If no reviews or references run away. I hired a local guy and he was not a concrete guy, he was just some guy who thinks he would be good at concrete work. I laid out the slab using string and made sure everything was perfectly square. He showed up and I showed him where I had laid out the pad. He immediately ripped up the string then asked what the dimensions where. I told him and he proceeded to absolutely screw those dimensions up. My wife asked me not to micromanage the workers like I normally do so I walked inside for about an hour. When I came back out the dimensions where all wrong. And when I mean wrong I mean by at least 10' on a pad that was supposed to be 32'x34'. I told him it was wrong and he started belly aching about how it was already done. I told him to fix the main pad and he could leave the apron at 10' wide rather than 2' wide like I wanted. When he had it laid out correctly he used string, instead of a laser, to set the grade stakes. Because the string sagged in the middle so does my slab. On top of that he angled my apron up so it collected rainwater and directed right into the saggy middle, creating an indoor pool that was at least 1" deep. I begged him for months and months to fix the apron and it was not until I told him he would be paying for someone else to fix it that he actually tried to fix it. He tried cutting grooves to let the water drain but we both knew he had to replace the slab which he eventually did but before making me wait for several months. I had threaded steel inserts put in the concrete for pedestal mounting some tools. I told them they MUST be level but in the end I had only one that was useable. Then he did not order enough concrete, probably because he let his 10 year old son calculate what was needed. When he ran out of concrete he acted like it was not his fault and wanted to leave. He hemmed and hawed a few minutes implying I needed to order more concrete. I told him he was paid for the job and the job wasn't finished. He ordered the extra concrete but by the time it got there the rest of the concrete had cured and the new stuff didn't match, both visually as well as physically. Luckily it was the apron that had to be removed otherwise I would have an apron that looked like ass.