Dolomite_supafly

I am needing someone who can speak Italian for me. I already have someone who speaks Sicilian but there is a lot being lost because of the difference in dialects. It is regarding technical matters and translators do not do well translating sometimes. Thank you

There are a few good supersonic powders. If you are shooting jackets bullets it is really hard to beat the consistecy of Lil'Gun. I use it for supers and subs, 8 grains for subs weighing 200+ grains and 16 for supers weighing 150 grains or less. A great " universal" powder is IMR 4227 because it works well for subsonic and supersonic loads. You can't get to the same velocities as with a supersonic powder but for a powder that does everything it is hard to beat. BTW, what barrel length and gas length does your AT have? Not sure if you have my number but if you, or anyone else, has ANY Blackout questions please contact me. I have an immense amount of experience with it. I have even designed bullets for it. I am less than a month away from selling a 265 grain bullet designed specifically for the caliber. It is shooting sub 2 MOA without load development. It is stable in any Blackout. Feeds from a magazine. And because it is so heavy it uses less powder which means it is quieter. They will be available from ACME bullet company initially but will also be available from some MAJOR component resellers. We have close to two years of independent testing of this bullet to ensure it is reliable and accurate. My number is the Knoxville area code (VOL) 789-5796, anyone can call anytime because I enjoy talking about the caliber, guns as well as life.

US Optics makes one. http://www.opticstalk.com/us-optics-internal-anticant-bubble-level_topic25393.html

Someone makes one, seen an article about a scope with an internal bubble level. The article was a long time ago but I do remember.

####, how am supposed to get that time back? Off to the garage to build a time machine or lobotomize myself, haven't decided yet but probably the later.

I have done quite a bit of reading and studying on those who live past 100. One study I read suggests that once you reach about 95 your body sort of quits aging. Hope he lives a lot longer, anyone making it out of WWII alive deserves a long, happy life and from the sounds of it he is definitely enjoying his. The last person I remember reading about swore it was drinking that kept them alive so long. Maybe that is the key, sitting down to relax with a cigar and alcohol.

A search of completed listings on Gunbroker shows preban DMPS lower receivers SELLING for as much as $900 with most in the $700-$800 range. Here is a preban DMPS that SOLD for $1,315, definitely higher than any other current production DPMS carbine. http://www.gunbroker.com/item/623548425 Here are listings of completed auctions of preban DMPS guns. All are higher than current production guns so there definitely a premium to be paid for preban firearms and magazines. http://www.gunbroker.com/All/Completed%2FBCI.aspx?Keywords=preban&Timeframe=1 Preban Glock magazines sell for well over $100. Preban Norinco AKs sell for $2K+ now. Preban PNW stripped receiver sold for over $1,000. http://www.gunbroker.com/item/626921152 Preban makes a difference in price.

People are still paying a premium for "preban" guns. Just like machine guns there is a finite amount and that amount gets smaller every day.

Never say never. Happened in Texas before the laws were changed there. All it would take is an officer to be a dick and he could follow the letter of the law and ruin a bunch of people's lives with how the law is written now. I'm honestly surprised it hasn't happened with NFA items. I had an officer at a TWRA range tell me she would confiscate my silencer if she seen it. I told her it was registered. She said she didn't care and that I would have to get it back from the ATF if she seen it.

If the DPMS is a true preban I would put it on an auction site so those from ban states can get some bids in. Or, tell your friend to hang onto until the next "crisis" and then dump it for a lot more. If it were not preban it would be worth around $600. With it being preban it is hard to say but right now is not a sellers market.

Well if states are using legislative energy drafting, and passing, legislation in preparation of HPA passing it IS looking a lot better.

Drilled and tapped the rear trunion. Stormwerks AR15 buffer tube hinge. KAK buffer tube made specifically for the Shockwave brace. Shockwave brace.

I should charge them a "don't whip your ass fee" as they are sneaking around my property to read the meter. We had wireless meters installed to keep them off my property but the meter reader can't seem to understand he doesn't need to walk all over my property any more. Not saying he is up to no good but I still can't come up with a good reason for him to be walking around my property, especially since my meters are already being read wirelessly. I recently built a garage and went through hell getting the electricity installed. Wanted underground utilities, was told by KUB no. After I was finished with building the garage the same exact guy who said no before asked why I didn't get underground utilities. I got pissed and told him I wanted underground utilities but he said "no" before. Because I was pissed he offered to install underground utilities for free but I had to put a service pole right in the middle of our driveway, I laughed and told him "NO". You have to pay for your inspection before they will approve a meter. After the electrical was installed the state electrical inspector said I needed at least four special little stand off brackets for the conduit coming down the service pole to my garage. I have never seen another residential pole with these despite the inspector saying it has been the law for a very, very long time. The electrician had never heard of them being used in a residential application but the state inspector said I MUST have them or he will never approve me for a meter. When I asked where to get them he handed me a sheet with installation instructions as well as where I MUST buy them. There is only one business in town that sells the inspector approved brackets and that business is the only business with brackets approved for use. And because they are required those $10 brackets actually cost me over $70 each. As far as solar goes TVA and KUB have an agreement unlike anywhere else in the United States. Everywhere else in the United States you use YOUR power first then it pulls power from the grid. In TVA controlled areas you pay for the solar energy YOU generate because the energy YOU generate is dumped onto the grid ahead of your meter. You pay the same rate for YOUR solar as you do for electricity from KUB/TVA. KUB puts a meter on your solar equipment to measure how much energy you produce for the grid. Then they will reimburse you for the power you put on the grid but ONLY if funding is available. BTW, funding has not been available since the program's inception because some local companies put up some huge solar farms to reduce their electricity bills. By doing that those companies have taken all the funding away from residential customers who, like me, could use solar to offset their bill. 6-8 years ago I looked into installing a solar system and did not because the funding wasn't available then, just like recently. When I tried again last year and it was still the same way. The ONLY way YOU can benefit from the energy produced by YOUR solar setup is if you go 100% off grid. You are not allowed to do a grid tie system where YOUR energy is used first in KUB controlled areas. You will not see a single dime worth of benefit from the solar YOU paid to have installed if you are still connected to the grid in any way. That is why no one wants to go solar in the area or at least that is why I would not install solar. It would cost me ~$45,000 to install a large enough system to put my bill at zero but because I will not get reimbursed there is no way I can recoup my installation costs. And when I told them I would not shell out $45K to install solar that would not benefit me they said "what about the environment?". So they are also trying to guilt people into paying them to install solar even though it will probably never benefit them. I would install solar immediately if they let me use my power first but you cannot, YOUR power goes into the grid first and you pay full price for YOUR solar. This is unlike anywhere else in the nation and the contract between KUB and TVA to do this still has close to 20 years before the contract expires. So even if the contract did change I would not have enough of my life left to break even because it will take 20+ years to break even according to their estimates. I even asked what would happen if I decided to use my solar first and was told I would get into serious trouble if I did. Not sure what sort of trouble, criminal or civil, but saving the environment is now no more important to me than it is to KUB. Imagine the benefit if KUB offered to install a single solar panel on a residential roof for free and allowed customers to use a portion of that energy first. That would help out KUB because it would free up some energy production capabilities. Not only that but it would also generate, over the lifetime of the panel, profits well above the initial cost of installation. A solar panel lasts about 30 years and would not cost more than $1,000 to buy and install. I bet it would break even within a year or two then it would be 100% profit after that. Seems like a no brainer for KUB but they will never do it. If they let me use MY solar first I would install a HUGE solar system tomorrow but because they have no idea if funding will be available year to year I would be stupid to throw away all that money for the benefit of KUB. Seriously, why can't they do like every other state in the country. Profits are the reason why, if people start using the power they, themselves, generate KUB could not charge people for it. They act like all energy being produced belongs to them even though the equipment used does not. It really is sad that they have an opportunity to help out people in the community but are more worried about profits than their customers or the environment.

Yeah, can't beat Mike. Great guy who does great work. http://www.lawenforcementsalestn.com/ (865) 272-3779 / (803) 517-5448 - Mon-Sat ** by Appt only ** (480) 393-4406 (Fax) info@lawenforcementsalestn.com

I remember you posting about it a few years ago. I walked in there ONCE and left immediately because it wasn't a place I would do business with. Glad they are gone, thieves cost us all and there just seems to be way too many thieves in the world today.

Being able to disable a firearm is not a feature, it is a flaw.

If you don't mine recoating it I can thin whatever muzzle brake you decide on to match the profile of the barrel, for free.

Shockwave is, without a doubt, the best. Lightest, most comfortable and can be folded into a very flat package. You are more than welcome to come shoot mine on a mini Draco if you want.

Smokey Mountain Knife Works sells guns and if you are there might as well hit Buds Gun Shop as well since they share the same parking lot. The largest used gun collection I have ever seen has been at Shylock's Pawn in Tazewell (Only TAZEWELL). They almost always have some older revolvers. I have seen Dan Wessons revolvers there for $350 and they always have a few Smiths. They had a new in the box Remington XP100 in 223 Remington for $800, if I could have afforded it I would have snatched it up. They had a Remington model 41 in like new condition for $850. Useable single shot shotguns in any caliber for $60, not remotely pretty but useable. Bought an all stainless 10/22 there for $175 several years ago. Might give Mike's Gun Shop in Tazewell a call. He has a huge selection of guns, mostly new, but he also has a decent selection of used guns as well. I would get a list of pawn shops in the area and call each one a few days before to see if any of them have what you are looking for.

After first taking it from those who are already there. If a person doesn't own the property they better have their supplies loaded and on their way to the bug out location BEFORE anything happens if you plan on being there first. You MUST have your supplies already loaded, tank full of gas and able to take off within minutes if you have ANY hope of beating the mobs. And if you think you have found the perfect spot a bunch of other people are planning to go to the same spot. There are plenty of people who plan on bugging out and I wonder where. Most of them say they plan to head to the hills which is a huge problem because there are already people in those hills living there right now. And those people are going to defend their location or at least I know I will. And don't expect others to openly welcome a large group of people. I know I won't welcome anyone unless they bring a significant skill to the group and honestly I can't imagine what that skill might be that isn't already covered. Anyone who is not a member of my group will be turned away with overwhelming amount of force. I will say this to all of those planning on bugging out to the hills. I will defend what is mine, including land, from any squatters or looters. After all if you show up and try to take what isn't yours you are a thief. That includes wild game, plants or anything on my property even if I do not need it or not using it that stuff is still mine. I may have more than I need to survive but I will not share any of it with complete strangers. I have made preparations to ensure my survivability and I would be a fool to give any of it away to complete strangers. It takes a lot of land to support a person year around. An acre or two isn't going to cut it. It will likely take 10's of acres per person if they plan on foraging or hunting. And what makes the average person think they are going to make it out of a population center before the other 50% of the other people leaving the cities clog the roadways? What is going to happen is the highways are going to clog like Rita/ Katrina leaving them stranded and with the option of walking to the "hills" or walking back to the cities. And when you start walking you are going to be able to carry far less than what you left with or even left behind in your vehicle. Bugging in has some real advantages and if I lived in a city I would, without a doubt, stay put. First is you already have everything you are going to have without the need to transport it to a new location. You can call for help from those around you while in a remote location you cannot call for help. Another big advantage is you know the area. You also know who is friend and who is foe or at least have a good idea. Travelling exposes you to more dangers. It is also easier to defend a building or high rise than a tent in the woods. Those buildings are going to protect you from the elements and be easier to keep warm in and survive in for the average person especially those used to living in the city. Food, at least initially, will be easier to come by in the cities as well as potable water. There are literally a few weeks worth of potable water in your water heater and toilet bowls and that is if you don't ration. With rain gutters, collecting water is much easier too. And as disgusting as it might sound cities have tons of rodents that can be harvested for food. If any type of relief or supplies are handed out it is going to be in the population centers first. The average person is going to have a far easier time surviving in the city than in the "hills". But if you must bug out and have any hope of bugging out you must be packed and ready to go in a moments notice. Vehicles have to ALWAYS have the gas needed to make it to that location. When the SHTF gas will be gone within minutes so unless you are at the pumps pumping your gas as it takes place you will not get gas from a pump. You need to also realize that there are going to be a lot more people than just you heading to a bug out location. This is going to clog the roadways like we saw during Rita/Katrina. The only way you might get a head start is if you are in a position to get some notice, like LE, emergency services or the government. Otherwise it is going to be a race to get out and if you are not in the lead you will find yourself stuck in the rear with the pack. And once you are stuck you and your stuff become vulnerable to roaming bands of thugs set on taking your stuff for themselves. And honestly it would be easy pickings. As far as your bug out location you need to own the property you plan to go to. This can give you a little bit of a delay in the squatters that will show up. And once there the squatters are not going to readily leave even if you tell them you own the property. If your bug out location is "public lands" you are not going to be the first there, it will be like winning the lottery if you are. You are going to find yourself surrounded by thousands of others who have the same plan. So, if it is a good spot, you will probably have to fight your way in and once in you will have to constantly defend that location. Most people don't realize that best case scenario crops will be edible in 4 months. If it happened during the summer it would be close to a year before crops can begin to be harvested. So that means you are going to have to transport that much food because you are not going to be able to kill a years worth of food with everyone else trying to do the same thing. And as much as I hate to say it in order to survive people must loose their conscience. They must be willing to turn those less fortunate away unless they bring a substantial advantage to the group. People have this grand illusion that they are going to be able to find virgin land to live off of. Look around, how much public land do you see? And of that how much is going to be free for the taking, not much if any, by the time they make it?

I'm still waiting on a April 1, 2016 submission.

The best way to preserve your brass and get accurate loads is to separate the steps. Use a Redding body die to size the body then use a Lee collet die to size the neck. Take the sizing pin out of the Lee collet die, chuck it into a drill then use sandpaper to polish and remove a few thousandths to increase neck tension. That way you do not HAVE to crimp. And if you decide you want to load for a bolt gun then all you have to do is size the neck. The rest of the case will be fire formed to your chamber so it will help your brass last a lot longer. Unfortunately you MUST size the body with semi autos. Normal dies squeeze the neck down below the minimum and then pull a mandrel through the neck to get it to proper size. This work hardens your brass and without annealing they will only last 4-5 loadings before the case is unusable. By sizing the body and neck in separate operations your brass will last a lot longer. I would normally get 10+ loadings.

Central Vetrinary Hospital in Knoxville. Doctor Wesley Keele is a great doctor. Knowledgeable as well as caring. He calls to see how your pet is doing a day or two after the visit. He makes sensible recommendations with your pets welfare being his top priority. Best vetrinarian I have dealt with so far. I cannot say enough great things about the Doctor Keele and the staff at Central Vetrinary Hospital.

Who here has a Sheridan gauge from Tromix? I bought one to measure the throat and I am needing a few more people to measure to get a decent average.

ATF has raided and taken down another "solvent trap" online dealer recently. They are starting to see what a "solvent trap" really is and what they are REALLY used for. And yes, you CAN order a 50 BMG upper for your AR15. Doesn't need to go through a FFl and can be mailed directly to you. Mine should be here any day.