Dolomite_supafly

Want to hear something really funky. About a decade ago there was a custom AR builder that would install two functioning gas blocks. He would install one at the pistol position and one at the carbine position. The pistol position would have a very small port and the carbine position would have a normal port. He claimed it helped with recoil as well as reliability. He used one gas tube and it went through the pistol block.   Definitely was a unique setup but not sure how well it really worked. It would seem as though it would cause a premature opening which could cause over gassing. Or maybe the small port at the pistol position was just enough to pressurize the gas tube without actually opening the bolt.

A "trust" is not an individual. The indiviaul may be part of a trust but the trust is who is submitting it not the individual.   In order to eFile the "individual" must be part of the "trust". An individual cannot just submit a Form 1 alone through the eFile system, it must be accompanied by a trust or other entity.   I wish I could submit a Form 1, fingerprints, photos and then get approval through the eFile system but I cannot.

For guns that need oil, not grease, I use a 50/50 mix of synthetic 30 weight and automatic transmission fluid. I have never had a problem. And if I need some cleaning benefit as well I add about 10% of fuel injector cleaner to the mix.

Beautiful piece. I have also wanted one for a very long time.

Most .750" clamp on gas blocks will clamp down onto the barrel as long as it is spec at .740. I have done exactly what you want to do. Get a clamp on, not setscrew, type gas block. Install a portion of a gas tube to hold the hand guard end cap in place. You might have to add a spacer between the barrel and hand guard end cap to keep it from rattling around. As far as the heat I would not worry about it. The gas block won't be that much hotter than the barrel. It will be closer but unless you are doing mag dumps I would not worry about it. When I installed mine I put the hand guards into the delta ring. The I pushed back on the gas block until it stopped then I clamped it in place. Again, I had to use something to take up the .010" difference between the .750" hand guard end cap and the .740" barrel.

I have been told by a few who have done this exact thing that this looks better than the $1,500 N750 from Pulsar.   Also, I will be doing a write up on a stand alone version that requires no scope. You can also zero it just like the N750. It ends up being the size of an Aimpoint red dot and allows you to use it during the day or at night.

I actually found a new one on Ebay for $16 shipped.

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Here is what must be modded to the camera case. And here is how the camera will basically look inside the ring.

Here is a breakdown of cost:   Item Cost   Supplier camera 16.6   AliExpress lens and mount 3.05   AliExpress osd cable 2   AliExpress housing  5.94   AliExpress standalone cable 0.21   AliExpress battery 21.66   AliExpress 3.5" screen 17.69   Ebay Y power cable 6.95   Ebay 30mm rings 8.88   Ebay 30mm rings 8.88   Ebay IR surefire 12.99   Ebay Project box 4   Radio Shack 5.5mmx2.1mm female plug 3   Radio Shack           Total 111.85    

So over the past month I have been hanging out on this website. http://www.nightvisionforumuk.com/index.php Because they really do not have a firearms market anymore accessories like night vision are also not readily available. So what do they do? They make their own using readily available and cheap security cameras. You can get everything from just the camera board to complete security cameras that you must take apart to use. How this works is there is always infrared light which is invisible to mamals but visible to these digital cameras once you remove the IR filter. Every camera comes with an IR filter because there is no need to see it. And also because when you remove the filter the visible and IR signals are slightly different which can cause some blurriness with cameras. But it is not that bad. So what I did is start researching which cameras were best. And it comes down to two choice as far as criteria. you either get light gathering ability or high resolution. Lower resolution may sound bad but when "low" resolution is still better than the screen there is not need to loose light gathering for resolution you will not use. So I chose the best chipset for light gathering, except for a brand new $700 camera fro Watec. The best is a chipset called a ICX633/632 and it is 2x-3x better at light gathering than the camera with the highest resolution. It is a great trade off unless you are using a BIG screen but on a weapon you do not want, or need, a huge screen. Now this setup is more of a one off setup because I enclosed the camera in a project box for a clean appearance. But it is possible to have a setup that requires very little custom work. And how much do I have in this setup? Honestly it went a little higher than I wanted but I have less than $130 in the entire setup. I started with this board camera: http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6006732453.htmlhttp://www.aliexpress.com/item/NTSC-1-3-Inch-Sony-CCD-Sensor-Board-ICX632-CXD4140-D5148-520TVL-NTSC-Signal-System/763678504.html You will notice a screen on the front of the lens, that is the IR filter and the manufacturer will remove that for you when you order. The back has two plugs. One is for the power and video signal and the other is for the On Screen Display that allows you to make adjustments to the camera. And because light gathering is the priority I decided to upgrade from a standard lens to a CS mount. The CS lens is larger lens so it allows more light through. The seller also sells the CS mount and the correct 16mm lens for use behind a scope. http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6006732455.html And because you have the ability to change settings you must have the OSD cable. This is the one that I bought and it works great. If you notice the pictures below you will see how it is wired into the plug because it does not come wired. http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6006732456.html The housing I bought was actually recommended by someone and it was the wrong one. It was not deep enough for the board above so I had to drill a clearance hole for a diode, see pictures below. I think this is the correct housing or at least it is deeper than the one I bought. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Indoor-Metal-MTV-Mini-Metal-Housing-for-CCTV-38-38mm-Security-Camera-free-shipping/1150236035.html And because I knew I would eventaully not have to use the OSD cable I ordered these. It allows me to power the board and send the video single without all the extra wires of the OSD cable. http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6006732457.html Now we need a way to power everything. For that you need a 12V DC battery. I ordered one that is way too big for my needs but it should have run times measured in days rather than hours. I ordered this one. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/6800mAh-DC-12V-Super-Rechargeable-Lithium-ion-Battery-Pack-EU-Plug/1401084329.html Next we need a screen to view everything. I ordered a 3.5" TFT screen like this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-Digital-TFT-LCD-Screen-Rear-View-Monitor-Car-Reverse-Camera-DVD-VCD-/161052693327?pt=US_Rear_View_Monitors_Cams_Kits&hash=item257f7d134f It was cheaper on Ebay so I ordered from there. And finally we need a cable to power everything up. And Ebay provided this as well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/390576798464?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Now that we have all the parts assembled how do we mount it? Because the camera needs to be centered in the scope I used the scope rings that were the same height for the scope as well as the camera. The camera itself is 30mm so you need rings that support 30mm and the scope which for me was 1". And athough it is not in the pictures these are the ones I ordered. I ordered two sets, two rings for the scope and one ring for the camera. http://www.ebay.com/itm/141172611188?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 I also bought a IR bulb for my Surefire. It works great and gives a fair amount of IR light out to about 100 yards. http://www.ebay.com/itm/850nm-CREE-IR-LED-NVG-Spare-Bulb-Surefire-501B-502B-and-Hugsby-Flashlight-/181280294546?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item2a3525c692 Now the camera needs to be about 2" behind the scope so you may have to move your scope forward. Or another way to do it is to use a seperate picatinny rail that goes from a single ring installed at 270 degrees on the scope to the scope at the rear. Here is a good video showing the setup: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wnNFR99xGI I wanted mine to be more permanent for now and although I can use the method above I plan on making another NV setup that will be able to be moved from gun to gun. I mounted the camera in a "project box" from Radio Shack. It cost something like $4. I also added a 5.5mmx2.1mm femal plug to get power into the box. The plug was like $3 So here are some pictures of my setup: I do not have my dedicated battery pack yet so this is just a pack that uses either AA batteries. Here is the camera installed in a "project box" to protect it some. The bottom plug is the video and power. The empty plug on the left is for the OSD. I just need to plug in the OSD cable to make adjsutments to the camera. The plug is from Radio Shack to supply power and I cut a RCA cable in half and passed it through the glued it in place. I also glued the camera in place. And all I need to do is remove the back cover to make OSD adjustments. Here is the front side of the "Project box" with all the connections as well as the camea passing through. The accordian looking thing is an eyepiece you can buy off of Ebay. I use it to keep the light from the screen from entering the camera. And here it is all buttoned up. So how well does it work? Let me start by saying that the screen shots do not do it justice. It is extremely clear but when you try to take a picture of a digital device when using a digital device it never looks all that great. Here is how the reticle looks throught he camera. You use your scope to zero so all the adjustments are the same, you are just looking at a screen rather then through and objective. Here is a picture of my neighbors house 100 yards away as seen with your naked eye: And here is the same view through the DIY night vision. Again the quality sucks because of the camera but you can see all the light the camera is picking up. And this is without the scope setup to run night vision only. It can be used at dat or at night. I could have got it much brighter had I set it up for night only. And this is without any weapon mounted illumination. And here is in total darkness with an IR bulb in a Surefire. The distance is 25 yards. I am sure i am missing a bunch of stuff but I will add as I remember. The scope used was a 1.5x6 and you see exactly what is in the scope. If you use higher magnification the field of view shrinks just like a regualr scope. I will post a parts list as soon as I order another setup and that will happen when the Chinese New Year is over in a few weeks. I am going to talk to the supplier to see if they can setup a DIY kit where the camera can be bought with the correct case, lens, OSD cable, screen, battery and cables. If they can then it will be so easy to setup. I am going to be ordering a few more setups to try to figure out an easy way to duplicate for those who are like me and are technologically handicapped. Ask away.

Actually it is a crime for a felon to be in possession of body armor.   No crime was committed by the buyer and he should sue the officer for his money back. The officer should have known not to sell something that the taxpayers paid for. And for doing it he should loose his job.   I would say that 90% of the military stuff sold in pawn shops is not stolen. It is some Joe who needs money so he pawns his gear but never gets it back out. I know I have had soldiers that needed me to help them get something out of pawn when they couldn't afford to get it back out. They eventually paid me back with money or with sweat.

So what keeps it from coming off in the same way it went on?   As a general rule I do not like anything that snaps into place on a gun. If it doesn't get bolted or at least locked in place I don't like it.

The camera I am working with only has three pins on the board so I doubt it is to save on wiring, especially when I had to purchase the wiring harness seperately.

So even if you hit it with the palm of your hand it will not budge?   I understand that it might be hard to push but I find it hard to belive a good solid hit won't release the bolt.   I would remove the bolt hold open. I would break the edges of the bolt hold open. I suspect when there is forward pressure at the top it is digging in at the bottom because of a sharp edge. If you break the edge it should fix it.

Ok.   So red goes to positive on the battery.   Black goes to the battery and the outside of the RCA plug.   Yellow goes to inside the RCA plug.   Thanks

I need to figure out how to wire an RCA plug.   The bundle coming off the board is 3 wires, red+black+yellow. The red and black power the board and I was told that yellow is for the video signal.   Question is I am sure the video signal uses more than just the one yellow wire so which is it, red+yellow or black+yellow?   The yellow is the center of the RCA jack so what goes to the outside?   This is for a video surveilance camera if that makes a difference.

I have a pencil thin barrel on my lightweight gun. It shoots MOA to at least 100 yards even after it gets hot. It is .60" under the handguard and .55" ahead of the gas block. It is 20" but I am sure you can find one in a shorter length.

So when you press on the bolt hold open with the bolt locked back the bolt hold open will not move?

Cash bond is paid by the defendant to get released and all of it is returned once the defendant shows up in court. A surety bond is when another pays the bond, usually a bondsman, and the defendant usually pays 10% that they do not get back if they show up.   Pretty sure she did not do it to get all those perks of being in jail. Jail sucks no matter what. The reason is you have no control over who you are housed with. You could be in the cell with the nicest person in the world or a complete ass. Or you could find yourself in a cell with the only person in the world allergic to water and soap. Not to mention the fact you cannot do what you want when you want.

You could go with a Rainier Arm rail to shave some weight and definitely loose the stock. The Rainier free float tube only has a top rail and the rest is smooth but is threaded for custom rail sections. Most any other collapsible stock will be lighter than the UBR.   Once place you may not have thought about is the barrel. Either buying another barrel with a thinner profile or having that one thinned. I took over a pound off my wife's 9mm barrel without any affect on the guns functioning. If the person who is thinning the barrel turns it on its centers the accuracy might improve accuracy. Most barrels have bores that are not centered and the only way to do that is to turn it concentric to the bore.

I was watching a guy getting arraigned on a PI or disorderly conduct charge. It wasn't his first time going to the system so he knew he could plead guilty and would normally get released as soon as he was sober. Well he decided to be a complete ass to the commissioner as he was pleading guilty. The commissioner refused to accept his plea and set his court date 90 days out because she knew he could not make bond. He woke up 12 hours later wanting to know why he was still in jail. Needless to say he was not happy.

  How hot was the mold? The mold temp has more to do with how the bullets look than the lead temp. My lead pours perfect bullets at 650-700 degrees but only once the mold is up to temp. If the mold is not up to temp the bullets will be wrinkled and the square edges will be rounded and not very well defined regardless of the lead temp. You can have 900 degree lead and if you pour it into a cold mold the bullets will be wrinkled and not well defined. Now you can have lead that is 600 degrees and as long as the mold is hot enough the bullets will look great.   If your bullets come out with a frosty look to them and perhaps with what looks like a crystaline structure then the mold is too hot. At that point I open the mold and let it set for a few minutes to cool. It also depends on the alloy used. Pure lead will be very shiny, like chrome, while wheel weights will have a dull look to them.   Wrinkled bullets are caused by one of two things, the mold is too cold or the mold is dirty. A new mold MUST be cleaned. I clean using hot water, Dawn and a toothbrush. After that I try casting without smoking the mold and most times it doesn't need to be smoked. If it does need to be smoked do NOT use matches or candles because they will deposit an oily film that will cause the bullets to come out wrinkled no matter what temperature the lead or the mold is. If I have to smoke a mold I only use a lighter. I put a heavy coat of soot then I use a Qtip to lightly wipe the soot off. Then I repeat the sooting and wiping two more times. When done the mold should not look clean but should have a tarnished look to them.   This is how I cast. I turn the lead up to ~650-700 degrees depending on outside temperature. I set my mold on top of the pot to allow it to warm some as the lead melts. Once the lead is melted I start casting and I cast as fast as I can. I do not look at the bullets until I have about 20 drops. At that point I start paying attention to the bullets. You will see them go from wrinkled or not well defined to nice looking bullets. But I continue to cast as fast until I see part or all of the bullet get frosty. At that point I start slowing down the casting rate until the bullets start casting nice looking bullets again. Then you will have to speed up or slow down a few more times until you figure out the rate.   The lead temp regulates how fast you can cast. If the lead temp is lower you can cast at a faster rate without the mold over heating but if the lead is a higher temp it requires a slower rate to prevent the mold from over heating.

Reading is one thing but actually controlling is another. Most need something that also precisely controls the temps.

This was in an email I received from a friend about building a PID.     I do not have a PID yet but I have measured my lead and it runs 650-700 and the mold itself runs 250. If you stay around those temperatures and increase or decrease the pour rate to keep the mold at temp you should be good.