Dolomite_supafly

I have cross referenced it and it is not close to any Hodgdon powder. I will cross reference again once I get actual chronograph data.

Depends on what it is. In this market I would consider $30-$35 a brick fair for bulk 22 but if you asked that on Armslist a gouger would no doubt snatch them up to resell. Maybe you can sell it on here so it goes to a fellow member. But of course you can ask whatever you want and on here no one will hassle you.

And one more thing. Graphene based batteries, even now at the beginning of development, can already store 6x more energy than a the best battery on the market of comparable size. This means those electric cars that are getting ~200 miles per charge would be able to go 1,200 miles per charge. And because graphene based batteries are like capacitors they do not require hours to charge like conventional batteries. The graphene based batteries are also significantly lighter which would also increase mileage. Graphene is what was needed to get electric vehicle costs down. The majority of the additional cost of elect vehicles is the batteries. But because graphene is so cheap to produce the cost difference should be significantly reduced.

There are advances being made very day in how to store energy. Graphene is the most promising at the moment. It is a super capacitor that can take a full large instantly and then meter it out. They charged a small piece of grapheme for a couple of seconds and it ran a light source for over 5 minutes. And graphene is super light, super conductive, super cheap to make and once the bugs are worked out will be better than any battery on the market today. They say that if you use it in cell phone you can charge the cell phone in a few seconds and be good to go. This will make filling up a car, or motorcycle, battery quicker than filling up a car. It will also be substantially cheaper to fill up compared to fossil fuels. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eo_1Y_yJZ-o And remember these graphene strips are one (1) atom thick so imagine how many can be stacked together if it was the same size as a traditional battery. There are even home grown scientists making graphene based batteries because it is so easy and cheap to do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABZ6Sskf-0A Not sure why these are not imbedding but they are definitely worth watching. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-AF7_Blj_k And graphene is the wave of the future according to IBM. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWxn_a0dEKI

The SSS will make it out of the bore of any rifle, semi auto or not, so in that respect they are completely safe. I have found that some guns do not like the short cases when in comes to ejection. These are the most consistent ammo with regards to barrel length. They chronograph -800 fps out of 2" barre and about the same out of an 18" barrel. These are the ONLY ammo I will run in a 22 pistol that is used for a backup. The reason is they penetrate 8" into ballistic gelatin when fired from a shorter barrel. They also tumble immediately and with a bullet length of -.6" it makes a pretty wide permanent would channel. It does not have the shock of a big caliber or fast mover but definitely capable of killing.

  Name a bike that can go 700+ miles on a tank.   I think it is a great thing. They are trying to bring in a younger generation to riding motorcycles which isn't a bad thing. Electric motors generate their max torque from the first revolution unlike gasoline engine that require the revs to build.

They are a lot quieter in a suppressed rifle but you MUST have a gun with a twist of at least 15 to stabilize them. Almost all 22's these days are 16 twist and out of those guns the SSS will tumble within inches of leaving the muzzle, I have done a metric ton of testing of the SSS. Without a suppressor they are no quieter than a regular 22lr, pistol or rifle. And in a semi auto they are a lot louder to the shooter because of the extra port noise caused by the shorter case. I did try them in a AR with a conversion and they shot OK but they had a lot of port noise and it did throw crud in my face.   To get the maximum benefit out of them you must have a locked breech gun like a bolt action and it must have a 15, or faster twist, and it must have a suppressor. If you have all three then you will have an amazingly quiet gun. If not then standard subsonic 22lr is a better choice.

These are the magazines you want to have: http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=MCPAR9&name=C+Products+9mm+Colt+Style+Stainless+Steel+32rd+Mag&groupid=14   $11 each and are all stainless steel. I tried all kinds of other magazines and once I started using these magazines any malfunctions went away.

What do you mean cam?   I misspoke earlier. I was thinking grip safety and not thumb safety.   I will say take it very, very slowly. The difference between a safe gun and one that isn't is literally a few draws of a file when if comes to the thumb safety. Here is a pretty good video to show you where it needs to be filed. The good parts start about 5:30 and show you a good comparison so you can see what will likely need to be filed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkYOn9S6ULg     Continue to file until the safety will go all the way up but with some resistance. Then apply some grease and work the safety up and down repeatedly until it loosens up a little. Or if you want use some 600 grit sandpaper wrapped around a popsicle stick to act as a file to slowly remove material until the safety is a little easier. There should be ZERO clearance, or close to it, between the nub on the thumb safety and the cross bar on the sear. The more clearance the more of a chance the gun might accidentally have the hammer drop.   The part that contacts the sear is designed to lock the sear against the hammer. The numb on the thumb safety should move up and over the cross bar on the sear when the thumb safety is engaged. Also, do not use your old one as a template for what to take off. No two safeties are fitted the same. It is best to take your time on the new one and get it perfect.

  Do not send them to bigun, he is just going to use those dangerous small primer 45 ACP brass. Why risk his life and you being sued. I will gladly "destroy" that small primer brass. Heck, I will even pay for shipping.   In all seriousness I LOVE small primer 45 brass. The reason is I can use small rifle primers to load it up. That is one less primer type I need to have on hand. I quit loading large primer 45 ACP brass a long time ago and put large primer brass in my end of the world bucket. I have shot a metric ton of both large and small primer brass and cannot see a difference between them performance wise. Just make sure your pistol will ignite small rifle, if not use small pistol. I use small rifle in my pistol calibers, 45 ACP as well as 9mm.

Sell them? I am in need of some.

What part is not fitting? The leg inside that blocks the trigger?

This weekend I was able to pick some of David's new Surplus Pistol Powder. And over the course of the next week or so I will be posting my results with this new powder. Upon first glance it looks like it is going to be amazing powder for several reasons. First, it is a flake powder which makes metering exacting charge weights extremely easy in most powder measures. As most of us know that reload that even though ball powder meters extremely well it is also pretty bad because it leaks out everywhere which causes a lot of waste, not something we want in these times when powder is in short supply. The other option is extruded powders and in most powder measures extruded powders get cut or cause the measure itself to hang up. And when it hangs up or cuts the powder your throw is different so it changes the consistency and when it happens to me I dump the charge back in the hopper. Now flake powder, like you see here, is the best of both worlds. It is small enough that it does not have the same problems with getting cut as extruded powder but his new Surplus Pistol Powder is large enough that you don't end up with it all over your reloading bench and therefore no waste. Another reason why this powder seems like it is going to work extremely well is the bulk of the powder itself. It should fill the case rather well and for those that do not know case fill is very important to consistency as well as accuracy. It is also an added safety measure because it makes a double charge almost impossible to miss. Here is a picture of a charged 45 ACP case and although it might be difficult to see David's powder fills the case nearly the half way with the recommended starting charge, 5 grains, for a 230 grain bullet. And here are the kernels laid out onto a penny for comparison. You can see these kernels are large but not too large. And if you are wanting me to test anything in particular with this powder please feel free to ask. I will be posting velocities as reported by a chronograph, the standard deviation (very important to accuracy), accuracy itself and finally how clean it seems to burn. If you are waiting on my test results to buy I would not because David will not sell anything that isn't of the highest quality. If you do not already have some I would buy it as soon as you can because powder supplies are dwindling by the day as well as the fact you cannot beat David's pricing on powders, bullets or primers. He literally is a once stop shop for all your reloading components. And remember this, when most other resellers are trying to figure out how to make a buck off of fellow gun people during the times we live in David is trying to figure out how to save his customers a buck and that speaks volumes for the kind of man he is. He understands what it is like to be a shooter, that is because he is a shooter first and a business man second. He has an amazing selection of components (stuff that seems like no one else can even get like 309 caliber frangible bullets for reloading). He is also a man with honesty, integrity and a willingness to do what is right.

Having clean water will be the next big thing like oil is now except people MUST have water. Had someone said 20 years ago that we would be drinking water out of bottles that we bought I would have told them they are crazy. Most city water has more chemicals and stuff that will hurt you than most wells.   In case you want to pull water from the well for cheap you can follow my instructions. I use it to pull water from over 40 feet. http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/42752-how-to-home-made-handpump-for-water-all-parts-at-lowes/

Did you tighten the two set screws? There should be two setscrews to lock the trigger pack in place and reduce any pretravel.

I have a 9mm AR built on a company's upper that is long gone. It is a Colt based gun and we have over 9K rounds through it now. It is the one gun that almost always gets shot when we hit the range. I will say I did ramp the bolt myself but other than that it has not been touched. And I recently cleaned it for the 4th time since we have had it. And because it is a blowback gun it is a lot more reliable than most other guns.   I will say that the Colt based guns can get finicky with certain types of hollow points but with FMJ mine has been 100% reliable. It is our home defense gun.

11a was on there at least back to 1990 as there is a 1990 publication addressing it.

  Lets all flag him because he is complaining his previous ad, that listed a price, was flagged and shut down for being overpriced.

I have been buying firearms for a very long time and I do not remember a time when question one, asking if I am the actual buyer, was not on there.

Make sure you wipe them down with an oily rag after handling them. It would be a shame to get rusty fingerprints on them after this long. The Smith looks absolutely beautiful.

I have shipped several firearms back to manufacturers and most recommend FedEx. Problem with FedEx is they either flat our refuse or try to tell you that you need all kinds of additional fees.   The last time I was going to ship a firearm I walked into FedEx. They asked what was in the box so I told them it was a firearm. This was not a handgun but a bare receiver. They told me it needed to be overnighted, that I MUST have some sort of insurance against loss and that I had to pay some sort of extra fee because it wasn't listed as a business address. In the end they wanted me to pay something like $76 to ship it. I thanked them and walked out.   I went to UPS and two minutes later the box was on it way for $27.   Now I will not send anything back to the manufacturer without a label.

It is a warning in the instructions. It is like loading a gun with the wrong ammunition and then trying to blame the manufacturer because you used the wrong ammunition.   I seriously doubt a jury will award someone for using the wrong ammunition. It would cost them a lot to mount a defense but a user not following the directions and using the wrong ammunition should not cost them anything. Matter of fact the customer should have to pay all legal fees, including the manufacturer's, if they try to sue over their own negligence and loose.

Accuracy has more to do with the ammo than the quality of the barrel. You can take the best barrel in the world and if you shoot crappy ammo through it will not be accurate. On the other hand you can take almost any barrel and get excellent accuracy if you find ammo it likes or hand load ammo for it.   Shooter experience also has a lot to do with it but 90% of the accuracy comes from the ammo.

Not a problem David. Petra got really warm and had the leave kind of suddenly but I stayed back and tried to track you down to say goodbye but couldn't. I was great seeing and talking to you again, it has been a while but I won't miss as many shows this year and neither will Petra or Gus. I will test the powder and post the results for members of TGO. It looks great and should meter very, very well. And like everything you sell it should be a great product for us pistol shooters.

I have been told this stuff works really, really well so I bought all Home Depot and Lowes had. I got close to 20 pounds and will likely get another 10 when they get more in. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-Duct-Seal-Compound-Plugs-10-Pack-DS-110/100212441   I am not worried about how well the block replicates flesh. I am worried about how the bullet performs in media. I might pick up a BB gun to see how this stuff meters compared to FBI gelatin.   Ballistic gel is a HUGE pain to deal with. You heat it, poor it in the container then cool it. It cannot get too hot after it is set otherwise it will start to melt. It can also begin to mold so a lot of people add a small amount of bleach to it. And then if it gets contaminated it is pretty much ruined unless you have a way to filter it when hot. It looks like the one you linked doesn't suffer from a lot of the problems with other gelatin products.