Dolomite_supafly

They will ship their used guns to any store.   Had a friend looking for a very specific, and hard to find shotgun, she found it at Gander Mountain and had it shipped in. It was the only one in stock.   You can have them look up guns in their inventory and it will show used guns as well.

I bet a 22 magnum barrel could be reamed out to 5.7x28 pretty easily. And 22 magnum barrels can be found pretty cheap. I have seen them for $150 and you can rent a reamer for not a lot of money and hand ream it yourself.

It depends. Without seeing the port and the carbon ring it would be hard to say. .125" is a BIG port so the gas block would have to be covering a lot of it.

I am now on the hunt for WD40 Specialist. I keep regular WD40 around to clean my firearms because it is the best solvent I have found for most things you want to clean off of guns.

It was not the misalignment issue that fixed it unless part of the carbon ring showed the port was partially blocked. it was the .125" port that likely fixed it. Had you had problems with the.125" port?   Try putting it back together with the handguards and see what happens.

Swapping barrels between uppers does not affect headspace. Swapping bolts between barrels can but I have never seen swapping bolts cause a problem. I have tons of bolts I swap around all the time. I will say that I do measure my bolts and try to use the "tightest" bolts with the barrels that tend to shoot the best. I have measured bolts that varied .002" but that is well within the tolerances.   Any barrel with the extension installed should be safe to shoot with any bolt carrier unless it has a lot of rounds through it.   Unless you installed the barrel extension, and drilled the gas port, there is no need to check headspace unless you suspect there is a problem.

So you opened the gas port to .125" and you are still having problems?   If you opened it up to .125" I would suggest picking up an adjustable gas block to tune it. I know it is easier just to drill to .125" but in most cases that is too large. It won't hurt the gun to leave it unrestricted but it will run dirtier, it will also increase the felt recoil.   When I build my guns I slowly drill the port out until it cycles, this ensures the gun is properly gassed.   H110 should work fine.

Friction increases velocity, not reduce it. Friction increases pressures and pressure is what creates the velocity. If you have no pressure then you will have no velocity. So a powder coated bullet is increasing velocity over cast/lubed but not from reduced friction but increased friction. Anyone that loads powder coated bullets and has loaded cast/lubed bullets will tell you there is a lot more friction with the powder coated bullets as you seat then into the case compared to cast/lubed bullets.   I would have zero problems shooting coated bullets. I have tested powder coated bullets and they do not lead until they are above 3,200 fps. Anyone who thinks coated bullets not work, when jacketed bullets will, is not familiar with coated bullets. And as always they are probably just parroting what someone else, who doesn't have a clue, said regarding it. Happens a lot, especially in small gun shops. Some of the outrageous claims I have heard from "experts" would astound.   I tell people that jacketed load data will work fine for cast bullets. The reason is a cast bullet does have less friction, and less pressures, than a jacketed bullet. Cast bullets, even coated ones, will conform to the throat and bore easier than a jacketed so the pressures will be less. But with that being said there are still enough pressure that push the bullet but it is harder to get into an unsafe area with cast/coated than with jacketed.

It is, no doubt, going to used to fuel their anti gun agenda.   Cue the endless new conferences about how he was killed by a crazy person with a handgun and how we need to ban assault weapons.   Ruling his death as a homicide is the most ludicrous thing I have ever seen.

I paid John Wells to do mine, was quick and painless.

Did it come with two barrels and two recoil springs?

Called and they said it s a gray area whether a pistol must be 922r compliant after registering as an SBR. They said I would need to write a letter to be 100% positive but they did say they would err on the side of caution and make sure it was 922r compliant because you ARE assembling a firearm that is not able to able to be imported in its configuration as a rifle. So I guess when a person makes a rifle using foreign parts, even if those parts are already a pistol, it must have the parts count for 922r compliance.   For me it isn't a big deal. It will add about $30 to the build.

You don't even need to cast your own to powder coat. Most sellers of cast bullets will sell their bullets without lube.

link to FB group?

If you don't mind dig them out for me and tell me what they are. I have a laptop that could use some more.

Next time I place an order I am going to go ahead and order some silver solder. The epoxy held up fine today for zeroing but I like the idea of having a more permanent solution.

I submitted the trust, schedule A and the assignment sheet transferring ownership of the gun to the trust. Now I just need to wait a few months. Had several friends get theirs back in under 40 days.

I will give the ATF a call.

Yesterday when I zeroed it the rounds were hitting 3" to the left with the front sight centered. After adjusting the front sight to zero the impacts it was pretty far to the left. So much so that it screwed up the sight picture, especially with the V notch.   After switching the side of the detent I zeroed it again and doing the work to the rear sight worked. Initially the rounds were hitting about 2" to the right before adjustments. After making the adjustments the front sight wings are now hidden by the peep sight and actually the front sight is pretty well centered. Before the work I would see the right wing of the front sight.

I recently bought a M85 AK pistol in 223. It has some pretty awful sights because the rear sight is too thin. A friend mentioned trying a V notch and I did but that only made the problem worse because now the light coming in from the sides is inconsistent and it made it very hard to get the same sight picture. It also had a couple of white dots as well as a white number 2 that was very distracting. I did blacken the rear sight and it did help out immensely but the V still wasn't very easy to use compared to the 400 meter notch. I was able to shoot some nice groups yesterday at 27 yards, 25 meters, using the Tula I have. I had several groups where the rounds were touching using the long range notch, which is till a bit narrow, but with the V notch I was lucking to get 1". I figured the rear sight was junk so I spent all day yesterday looking for sights for it and could not find anything, either factory or original Krinkov or aftermarket, that was reasonably priced or that would even work. I got to thinking I could probably make a decent peep sight that will work. I took a 4-40 allen head bolt and I drilled through the recess for the wrench for the aperture. After that I took a chainsaw file, that was the same diameter as the head of the allen bolt, and opened up the V notch so the allen head would drop in. Then I used some 5 minute epoxy to put it all together and I must say it looks great. I used a .070" diameter drill bit for the opening. I originally used a .090" but it was too large, .070" seems about perfect. I am going to run it as it is and if the epoxy fails I will just have it silver soldered in place for a more permanent fix. Another problem I had was the front sight needed to be moved too far to the left for my liking. I know it is an AK but not having the sights somewhat centered really bothers me. I got to looking and noticed the rear sight has a spring loaded detent to keep the sight from flopping between 2 and 4. And that spring loaded detent pushes the rear sight to the left, not a lot but enough that the front sight needs to be at the far left of its adjustment. It was pushing the rear sight over to the left so much that the front sight needed to be moved more than I like. I had to drill the detent hole all the way through and tap it for a set screw to capture the detent spring from the opposite side. By moving the detent from the right side to the left the rear sight will be pushed to the right by the spring, rather than to the left like originally, and hopefully it will be enough to bring the front sight more to the center.

I did some research and there is a 2009 opinion that states you must be in compliance with 922r, even if you are going to SBR. I was reading a previous opinion letter. It isn't that hard to get the correct parts count with these. All I need now is a stock and a use made FCG to meet compliance, even with foreign magazines. Well I just looked and the booster I bought is foreign made so I will have to replace it as well or just make sure to always use US made magazines. Here is the most current letter.

My Condor vest will take soft inserts but they are kind of a funky size. I would just run rifle plates and put some 1/2" foam under where the soft inserts normally go.

It will let the cops know to stay out of the area for a while because they are probably practicing to kill those same cops.   Want to stop errant gun shots, as well as random shootings? Instead of buying a multi million dollar system take that money and buy a gun for any law abiding citizen who wants one. When criminals figure out they are not the only ones with guns they will become a coward and quit.

eFile will not accept a check or checking account information. They will only accept a credit card and according to the ATF they do not care who pays. For me adding a trust account is just added complexity to my life.