East_TN_Patriot

As far as I am aware, EMF does not make their own firearms, but contract with other manufacturers and have their name put on it. That said, my impression of their reputation is good. I own an EMF Hartford lever action rifle (made by Rossi) and I am pleased with it.

I would just gently clean any rust using 0000 steel wool saturated in gun oil (you don't want to remove the factory finish if possible), clean the area really well using Gun Scrubber or acetone, then apply it to the area you are dealing with. Just a thought, if it's a shooter that you plan on keeping and want to look nice, or if you plan to sell it, it may be worth your while to have the slide Cerakoted or reblued at some point. You may also consider black hard chrome. It's not as durable as silver hard chrome, but looks really nice when done properly and holds up a little better than regular blued finishes.

Sorry man, can't help you. I want one too.

I'm calling BS on this guy's story. How do you just "pick up" a gun with your finger on the trigger and accidentally fire off a round into your leg? My bet is that he was playing with the gun while driving, had the hammer cocked back, and fired the round off. Idiot.

Nevermind... Dolomite beat me to it.

This thread just screams "QUALITY!"

You're one to talk. I saw you at the nail salon getting a pedicure the other day. Don't even try to deny it.

Hey, nothing wrong with Kentucky! I was born and raised in Richmond. Stayed until I was 24 years old. Welcome to Tennessee and TGO!

I'm not too worried about my flip flops. If the zombies come, I'll just dazzle them with my toe ring.

I have a Hogue on one AR, and an Ergo grip on my other AR. I like them both, but for the money, I think the Hogue is the better of the two as far as overall feel.

Here's a helpful bit of info I happened across recently if anyone plans to go pick up a Garand in person for the first time: How to pick out a CMP Garand

Man! That dog of yours sure can shoot a rifle!

I must admit that my bench was a mess, but this thread inspired me to go clean it up a bit.

That looks like a blued slide to me. I'd try a touch-up with the cold blue first and see before stripping it down.

I understand the frustration. I have a couple of neighbors who are constantly replacing their mailboxes. Both are very along in years and on limited incomes. I've spent more than a couple of hours helping them straighten out mailbox posts and get the new one's bolted on. One time, the new box didn't even last 24 hours. It's so bad, I've even seen some people not even bolt their mailboxes to the post, but just set it on the post or they use magnets to hold it in place. I never understood the purpose of vandalism. Even as a kid, the worst thing I ever did was throw snowballs at cars or put a smoke bomb in someone's mailbox. I think the earlier post hit it on the head. So many people have an entitlement mentality that they think it's perfectly acceptable to intentionally destroy or take someone else's property because you don't have the same thing. Just look at the riots in London right now and the mentality of those taking part. BBC interviewed a couple of girls who made it very clear that they were showing the police and "rich people" that they can do "whatever we want." I also think the overly putative nature of our society also makes otherwise honest people choose not to hang around when they do make an honest mistake and run over someone's mailbox. In the past, society was less reliant on formal mechanisms for solving disputes and if someone accidentally damaged property, they could knock on the door and work it out with the property owner. Now, most people want the police involved, which means a report, likely a traffic citation, and then jacked up insurance rates. This also keeps property owners from taking steps to protect their property as TGO David's story shows since you'll get sued. Unfortunately, as a society, we reap what we sow and this is the outcome of too many people demanding official intervention in every aspect of our lives while the rest of us sat relatively silently while it happened.

No worries. That said, I sure would like an FAL myself. Some say they are ugly, but I think they look bad to the bone.

That was my thread. It wasn't so much the quality as it was their pathetic quality control and even worse customer service. They sent me an AR upper with a junk BCG that wasn't one of theirs. When I called, they tried to say I was scamming them. They didn't make things right until I filed a dispute with Visa. It was clear that whomever shipped out my upper paid no attention to the BCG that was in the upper and their attitude was one of "it's simply not possible that we could have sent that out of this shop." So based on that, the customer has no leg to stand on in the case of receiving the incorrect or faulty item. Once I got the correct items, things looked good to go and of decent quality (especially for the price). I have read generally good reviews about their FAL products, with the random QC issues here and there, but I expect that from any company that puts out products at any significant level of volume. I'm not posting this here to trash DSA any more than I did in my original thread, but wanted to clarify the issues since it was mentioned.

Define "smart." I talked about this today in my class. When people talk about being smart, they can mean: 1) Knowledge or "book smarts" 2) Intelligence or the ability to apply knowledge for a practical application 3) Common sense or "street smarts" Obama clearly has a lot of knowledge, which I think is the least important. He totally lacks the other two, which makes him essentially useless as a leader or policy maker.

In my experience, in any shop that overprices their firearms to that degree, bargaining is a waste of time. Their "bargain" price will end up being higher than I am willing to pay. Also, when I see prices like that, I immediately know that the seller is more interested in profit than honest sales because they are willing to actually take that much from an unsuspecting buyer. On the note about taking offense to low-ball offers, I am one of those people. If I am asking a reasonable price for a firearm when compared to the market, don't waste my time with an offer that's less than half of what I am asking. In my experience, the folks who make offers like that aren't willing to actually pay anything close to what I would accept and are hoping to take advantage of a desperate or unsuspecting seller. For instance, I offered up a LNIB Springfield xdm a few months back and gave my asking price OBO. I got one offer for $150 and another from a different buyer for $200. Really? Don't waste my time. I tried to "haggle" with both and one wouldn't budge trying to justify the offer and the other kept trying to renegotiate by offering up a bunch of used holsters and gun parts after I said cash only. Neither was serious about negoitiating a reasonable price. That's my take on this topic anyways. Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

I used it a while back on a steel frame revolver. It worked pretty well, but it's not as durable as a regular blued finish. It also will have a bit of a sulfur odor to it. If you plan to use it on the whole thing, you'll need to get the metal clean and completely degreased. It also helps if you warm the parts up a bit. As far as a cold blue, the Birchwood Casey is the best I know of. A couple of points though. First, this stuff won't work on stainless steel at all, and doesn't do so well on some steel alloys. I have tried it on some machine screws and it didn't work all that well because it wore off very easily. Most newer Sig pistols are a blackened stainless or similar steel. You'll probably want to test it on a small area before you take it the finish off of your entire slide. Personally, I would opt for the touch-up and leave as much of the factory finish in tact because that will be far more durable. If you are going to do the whole slide, it may be wise to have it bead blasted to get it down to virgin metal before finishing. You may also want to consider some of the bake-on finishes that Brownell's has such as the teflon moly finish. It will be a lot more durable than the cold blue and they have ample instructions on their website. Good luck!

I agree with pretty much everything else said here and will add my own criticism of the article. That wasn't a home invasion. It was a burglary. Those are two very different things. A home invasion is a dynamic assault by attackers on a residence they know is occupied with intent to overwhelm the victims by show of force and surprise. This is a part of my pet peeve that people don't know the difference between a burglary and a robbery, but I digress...

I just voted no (not that it makes any difference anyhow since the poll has no impact on policy). Yes: 32% No: 68% At least it's a symbolic victory.

My presumption is that if they are sold at public auction directly to private individuals, they would have to use an auction company that possessed an FFL and all the same rules would apply. It would be just like any auction where firearms are sold. However, in my experience, the departments sell them to an FFL dealer, who then sells them to the public.

Kentucky has done a similar program for years. All firearms seized by law enforcement agencies MUST BE surrendered to the Kentucky State Police and the KSP is required to sell them at public auction to licensed dealers for resale. That money then goes into a grant fund that awards money to agencies for the purchase body armor and other types of police equipment. See Kentucky Revised Statute 500.090, KRS 500.093, and KRS 16.220. They made that change to the law when I was an officer in Kentucky. I am not aware of any instance where a gun seized by a police agency in the Commonwealth of Kentucky was sold and then later used in a crime. A quick Google search did not turn anything up either. It confirms what we already know, and peer-reviewed study after peer-reviewed has shown: guns purchased and owned by law-abiding citizens are not the problem.